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There are two options in Varanasi: you can stay near the water, where most of the lodgings are smaller and right in the midst of the action; or you can stay in the Cantonment area, about a 20-minute rickshaw ride away, where the more established, larger hotels are located. The latter area has less character, but it's definitely quieter and less chaotic.
A palatial 18th-century house renovated to meet new-age demands, Guleria Kothi has all the trappings of an eclectic stay. Wooden furnishings meet old sandstone walls and flooring, while views of the Ganges follow you wherever you go. There's an open-air eatery as well as a rooftop restaurant for fine dining. If you ask, the team will arrange sufi nights in the courtyard and yoga in the meditation room. Some room configurations feature four beds, ideal for families and groups.
