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There are two options in Varanasi: you can stay near the water, where most of the lodgings are smaller and right in the midst of the action; or you can stay in the Cantonment area, about a 20-minute rickshaw ride away, where the more established, larger hotels are located. The latter area has less character, but it's definitely quieter and less chaotic.
Still the residence of a well-to-do family, this guesthouse has small, beautiful rooms with quirky charm, and classical Indian concerts are often held here. There is a great veranda overlooking the river and Assi Ghat, and inside, there is a Shaiva shrine and 14 guestrooms. Delicious dinners, served under a galaxy of lamps and chandeliers, are Brahmin-style vegetarian. Book months ahead for peak season.
