Man De Guai
Popular with locals but unknown to most travelers, this family-owned restaurant serves an amazing array of local dishes, with a focus on fish from the Li river. There are no English menus, but the owners will bring you into the kitchen and let you pick out what you want. It is hard to find: look for it on the small street two blocks north of the bus station, next to the large statue of Guanyin, the Buddha of Compassion.