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Macau's medley of Portuguese and Cantonese cuisine—spicy and creamy Macanese interpretations of traditional Cantonese dishes such as baked prawns, braised abalone, and seafood stews—has made it one of Asia's top fine-dining destinations for decades.
Now, thanks to the spate of new casino-hotels, Macau has also become an exciting world-class culinary frontier. But local dining isn't all highbrow. Near the Largo do Senado and in the villages of Taipa and Coloane, wander the back alleys to find treats like zhu-bao-bao (a slab of fried pork on a toasted bun served with milk tea) or the signature pasteis de nata (custard tart): they’re simple, delicious, and classic Macau.
Long-renowned restaurants such as Restaurante Fernando and Litoral are staying the course. So, too, are Cantonese eateries such as Fat Siu Lau, particularly well known among Hong Kong residents who travel to Macau just for dim sum, weekend brunches, and seafood feasts at more affordable prices and made from higher-quality ingredients.
"Quirky" springs to mind when describing the colorful decor, with plastic monkey puppets and funky chicken toys hanging from the ceilings. The eclectic clientele includes graphic designers, gambling-compliance lawyers, and 10-year-old Cantonese kids celebrating birthdays.
Vastly popular A Lorcha (the name means "wooden ship") celebrates the heritage of Macau as an important port with a maritime-theme menu. Save room for serradura (Macau sawdust pudding, made with biscuits and whipped cream).
Occupying a converted two-story house with a small but pleasant balcony overlooking Coloane Village, this restaurant is Portuguese owned and has a Portuguese chef—so it’s no surprise that it is a favorite of Portuguese residents.
Everyone in Hong Kong and Macau knows about Fernando's, but the vine-covered entrance close to Hác-Sá Beach is difficult to spot. The open-air dining pavilion and bar have attracted beachgoers for years now, and the enterprising Fernando has built a legendary reputation for his Portuguese fare.
Founded in 1870 as a private military club, the stately pink-and-white structure was restored in 1995 and reopened as a restaurant. The languid Old World atmosphere perfectly complements the extensive list of traditional Portuguese dishes.
Well known to both locals and visitors from Hong Kong, Fat Siu Lau has kept its customers coming back since 1903 with delicious Macanese favorites and modern creations. A second branch, called Fat Siu Lau 3, is in Taipa Village and offers the same great food albeit in more modern settings.
In a tasteful setting, with whitewashed walls and dark-wood beams, one of the most popular local restaurants offers authentic Macanese dishes that are simple, straightforward, and deliciously satisfying.
A busy little eatery in the heart of Taipa Village, O Santos serves up classic Portuguese fare without frills or fluff. It has a similar menu to many of the diners in Macau, but the personality here is warm and lively. It's not a place for a romantic night out, but the food is great—try the steak and fries, the fried sardines, and, to finish, the serradura (a Portuguese dessert containing cookies and cream).
The house-made sangria is terrific.
The owners, who have roots in Pisa, created a warm, rustic interior to match the refined comfort food on their menu. The bresaola involtini (air-cured beef with shredded Parmesan) and fresh salmon carpaccio antipasti are tasty ways to begin your meal. Move on to the grilled king prawns, homemade tortellini, and, of course, the perfect wood-fired pizzas.
To find the place, walk up the hill from Barra Square and look on your left for the door leading downstairs, just across from the yellow-and-white Moorish Barracks.
Mediterranean beauty is in evidence inside and outside, with a gleaming white facade opening into a dining room with graceful arches, terra-cotta floors, and wrought-iron furniture. The menu is creative, with dishes ranging from African chicken to pork and clams cataplana (in a stew of onions, tomatoes, and wine).
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