Dar Nour
In the heart of the medina and boasting 360-degree views, this charming inn (the name means "House of Light") is partly built right on the kasbah's western ramparts. At times, you may believe you're climbing an M.C. Escher stairway in and out of the three historic houses that make up the property, which the French owners have tastefully decorated with a mix of antiques, local art, and crafts. Breakfast on the roof terrace is a delight, and in the evening it turns into a hip bar; try the cocktail du jour, perhaps a mint-filled mojito, as you watch the sun set over the medina's jumble of rooftops.