Every Moroccan city has its own way of preparing the national dishes. Harira, the spicy bean-based soup filled with vegetables and meat, may be designated as Fassi (from Fez) or Meknessi (from Meknès) and varies slightly in texture and ingredients. Note that few of the basic medina restaurants in Fez and Meknès are licensed to serve alcohol. Proprietors generally allow oenophiles to bring their own wine, as long as they enjoy it discreetly. Larger hotels and luxury riads (renovated guesthouses and villas) have well-stocked bars that serve wine, beer, and cocktails, as do more upscale restaurants.

Most of the Middle Atlas hotels we recommend have fair to excellent restaurants, but venture to stop at small-town crossroads or souks for a homemade bowl of harira for 5 DH or less. Note: some locals may frown upon alcohol of any kind. Be discreet if you carry your own wine or beer.

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