I spent a day in Montreal wandering in Leonard Cohen’s footsteps, guided by the noted journalist Richard Burnett. Burnett is a veritable Mr. Montreal, with deep family ties to the city and a knack for having a story to tell about almost every block in town.
My obsession with Cohen dates back decades–and though I once lived in the same Los Angeles neighborhood as he died in, and he once tipped his hat to me at a cafe on Pico Blvd, there is a particular specialness in wrapping oneself in the haunts of a hero’s youth. These Montreal streets made him the man he was, and in turn, birthed a legend.
Dining where he dined–Schwartz’s Deli, Moishes (though its location has changed since Cohen’s death in 2016), and St. Viateur Bagels; passing through his old college stomping grounds, where his life as a poet began at McGill University; peering into the windows, a little like a peeping tom, at his residence on 28 Rue de Vallieres, where I left him a Viateur bagel as an offering–well, it’s all more than any fanboy can hope for.
Beyond the main stops on the Cohen route, he is as much ingrained in the city as it once was rooted in him. Towering murals have been painted on buildings, his photograph is posted in establishments, and his music plays regularly.
I sat at the bar of Cabaret L’Enfer, the restaurant of Top Chef semi-finalist Massimo Piedimonte, eating a gorgeous tasting menu, drinking a divine pinot noir, and watching the chef interact with his six-year-old daughter, who drifted from watching Nightmare Before Christmas in the corner to playing pretend maître d’ at the door, to adding the gratin tableside to a pasta dish made of a vine grown in Piedmont’s garden–it was already a lovely, quaint scene. But then Cohen’s melancholy ballad, Dance Me to the End of Love, tumbled out from the speakers. My eyes grew misty, my smile nostalgic, I mouthed the lyrics, and the lovely, quaint scene transformed from a nice moment to something that would forever be etched in my memory.
– Jeremy Tarr, Digital Editorial Director