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zebec
July 21, 2019
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0 2025/02/02 10:06:43 zebec
A repeat photo of Mrs Z, shown again so we can ID these high-profile mountains. Far R above her left shoulder: Pico Taillon/Balcon Pineta, which fronts the best hike in all the Pyrenees, the famous Breche de Roland gap. Above her right shoulder going R-L: Mt Marbore, Mt Cilindro, *Mt Perdido ('lost') and Soum de Ramon on the farthest left.
A repeat photo of Mrs Z, shown again so we can ID these high-profile mountains. Far R above her left shoulder: Pico Taillon/Balcon Pineta, which fronts the best hike in all the Pyrenees, the famous Breche de Roland gap. Above her right shoulder going R-L: Mt Marbore, Mt Cilindro, *Mt Perdido ('lost') and Soum de Ramon on the farthest left.
0 2025/02/02 10:06:12 zebec
...beautiful Cristina. Newlyweds? We were never told.
...beautiful Cristina. Newlyweds? We were never told.
0 2025/02/02 10:06:01 zebec
Our tourmates hailed from Guadalajara. They were handsome Jorge and...
Our tourmates hailed from Guadalajara. They were handsome Jorge and...
0 2025/02/02 10:05:51 zebec
This day's routing was: Usana van transfer to Escalona (Solomonte HQ) to use washroom/observe huge wall map/board the sturdy jeep. Then jeep with Raquel and our pair of new tourmates up to Bielsa (see map bottom R). Then ascend up the U-shaped Pineta valley to our terminus goal, the remote La Estiva refugio hut. Then reverse. For locals, this is a landmark mountain area, with a number of 'heavyweight' peaks exceeding 3000 meters.
This day's routing was: Usana van transfer to Escalona (Solomonte HQ) to use washroom/observe huge wall map/board the sturdy jeep. Then jeep with Raquel and our pair of new tourmates up to Bielsa (see map bottom R). Then ascend up the U-shaped Pineta valley to our terminus goal, the remote La Estiva refugio hut. Then reverse. For locals, this is a landmark mountain area, with a number of 'heavyweight' peaks exceeding 3000 meters.
0 2025/02/02 10:05:26 zebec
Back in Solomonte's Escalona HQ basement, Raquel and Juancho operate a climbing wall activity to train kids. One of those children is the daughter of the couple who own Usana's aforementioned Dos Arcos B&B.
Back in Solomonte's Escalona HQ basement, Raquel and Juancho operate a climbing wall activity to train kids. One of those children is the daughter of the couple who own Usana's aforementioned Dos Arcos B&B.
0 2025/02/01 12:29:27 zebec
In some parts, the Escuain Garganta ('throat' or gorge) rock face is streaked orange-black. That's why we made the fonts above so coloured. Coming here during shoulder season meant far fewer crowds at the less-popular parts of the park such as Escuain. We saw only two other tourists there. The Visitor Center's gal was glad to see we three. Among the wildlife displays there, was a *'quebrantahuesos' stuffed bearded vulture. Its wingspan was impressive up close! *German: 'lammergeiter'
In some parts, the Escuain Garganta ('throat' or gorge) rock face is streaked orange-black. That's why we made the fonts above so coloured. Coming here during shoulder season meant far fewer crowds at the less-popular parts of the park such as Escuain. We saw only two other tourists there. The Visitor Center's gal was glad to see we three. Among the wildlife displays there, was a *'quebrantahuesos' stuffed bearded vulture. Its wingspan was impressive up close! *German: 'lammergeiter'
0 2025/02/01 12:28:04 zebec
The pair of mirador lookouts here were closely-located. Bocastiello belvedere had puddles and was muddy. It's boulders nearby had plentiful once-seabed fossils. But the best views of these jagged limestone massifs were from Gratallera. The source of the waterfalls that feed the local rivers is a mountain cave located 1,000 m deep inside the cliff seen here. Above: Circo de la Sarra.
The pair of mirador lookouts here were closely-located. Bocastiello belvedere had puddles and was muddy. It's boulders nearby had plentiful once-seabed fossils. But the best views of these jagged limestone massifs were from Gratallera. The source of the waterfalls that feed the local rivers is a mountain cave located 1,000 m deep inside the cliff seen here. Above: Circo de la Sarra.
0 2025/02/01 12:27:44 zebec
Would this be a safe mushroom for folks to ingest?
Would this be a safe mushroom for folks to ingest?
0 2025/02/01 12:27:27 zebec
Escuain village is now attracting some folks intent on restoring buildings as holiday homes. During each fall season, they will continue to experience (as we did) annual 'transhumance' cow migrations, with sizable herds coming down from the mountains. You could hear their cowbells coming down en mase from Tozal de Raton for miles. Whereas France has laws disallowing dogs off-leash in mountain parks, here we saw local tourists allowing their pets to bark at the bovine migration.
Escuain village is now attracting some folks intent on restoring buildings as holiday homes. During each fall season, they will continue to experience (as we did) annual 'transhumance' cow migrations, with sizable herds coming down from the mountains. You could hear their cowbells coming down en mase from Tozal de Raton for miles. Whereas France has laws disallowing dogs off-leash in mountain parks, here we saw local tourists allowing their pets to bark at the bovine migration.
0 2025/02/01 12:27:01 zebec
We'd never seen this rare species before. Any ideas?
We'd never seen this rare species before. Any ideas?
0 2025/02/01 12:26:47 zebec
Higher elevations are often home to thorny plants, ones which result in excellent local honey. Bees must love these cliffs and canyons.
Higher elevations are often home to thorny plants, ones which result in excellent local honey. Bees must love these cliffs and canyons.
0 2025/02/01 12:26:29 zebec
See the 'witch's hat' chimney? Beware the evil eye. Btw, one could hear the Rio Yaga far below. No doubt it was utilized by locals in the past. Escuain's rare physiognomy means that it is the park's sunniest sector. The hard-working farmers of yesteryear, with their sweaty shirts and weathered faces would've valued a cool respite on hot summer days.
See the 'witch's hat' chimney? Beware the evil eye. Btw, one could hear the Rio Yaga far below. No doubt it was utilized by locals in the past. Escuain's rare physiognomy means that it is the park's sunniest sector. The hard-working farmers of yesteryear, with their sweaty shirts and weathered faces would've valued a cool respite on hot summer days.
0 2025/02/01 12:26:12 zebec
Escuain village is a ghost town right by the gorge. It was once a well-known butter-producing village. Folks would once barter butter for wine. A scattered collection of crumbling old buildings still exist, like the one shown below. Shown here is Escuain's historic church/mausoleum, its empty hutches the result of expensive rates that apparently drove historic farm families to bury and inter elsewhere.
Escuain village is a ghost town right by the gorge. It was once a well-known butter-producing village. Folks would once barter butter for wine. A scattered collection of crumbling old buildings still exist, like the one shown below. Shown here is Escuain's historic church/mausoleum, its empty hutches the result of expensive rates that apparently drove historic farm families to bury and inter elsewhere.
0 2025/02/01 12:25:53 zebec
Views and vistas.
Views and vistas.
0 2025/02/01 12:25:35 zebec
*Later in Belsierre, her high school classmate Oscar drove by in his new one-person vehicle! He owns the modern tourist rental village there. The smell of cow manure was extremely powerful in Puertolas above. But those of who were born on farms feel that a multi-sensory approach is essential to grasp the full experience. And seriously, it'd be a great education for kids.
*Later in Belsierre, her high school classmate Oscar drove by in his new one-person vehicle! He owns the modern tourist rental village there. The smell of cow manure was extremely powerful in Puertolas above. But those of who were born on farms feel that a multi-sensory approach is essential to grasp the full experience. And seriously, it'd be a great education for kids.
0 2025/02/01 12:25:23 zebec
En route to the gorge, we went via Puertolas village again (above). That began an uncanny trio of chance encounters for Raquel. First, we waved to her blue-eyed pal Nuria. She and husband are Puertolas' sole occupants off-season, raising cows and sheep. Soon after by complete fluke we bumped into Pep, Raquel's former classmate from Mountain Guide school. He was visiting his nearby vacation rental investment before returning home to Majorca. *Third coincidence below
En route to the gorge, we went via Puertolas village again (above). That began an uncanny trio of chance encounters for Raquel. First, we waved to her blue-eyed pal Nuria. She and husband are Puertolas' sole occupants off-season, raising cows and sheep. Soon after by complete fluke we bumped into Pep, Raquel's former classmate from Mountain Guide school. He was visiting his nearby vacation rental investment before returning home to Majorca. *Third coincidence below
0 2025/02/01 12:24:57 zebec
Ola Fodorites peoples. My name is Jesus and I am a Spanish mountain guide. You can now see the second installment of Zebec's Spanish Pyrenees TR over in the Spain section. Vamos!
Ola Fodorites peoples. My name is Jesus and I am a Spanish mountain guide. You can now see the second installment of Zebec's Spanish Pyrenees TR over in the Spain section. Vamos!
0 2025/01/31 18:28:18 zebec
A golden Bestue wall. The hamlet had a lot of traditional uneven slate work roofing. After leaving the hamlet, we later passed through a centuries-old stone enclosure wall in the wild. It'd once been used to store cereals to feed livestock. Once back home at our rental, Mrs Z created an ingenious remedy to our pesky 'Spanish fly' problem: a makeshift plastic bag trap that did the trick. No more annoying flies. I married a genius.
Next: more music.
A golden Bestue wall. The hamlet had a lot of traditional uneven slate work roofing. After leaving the hamlet, we later passed through a centuries-old stone enclosure wall in the wild. It'd once been used to store cereals to feed livestock. Once back home at our rental, Mrs Z created an ingenious remedy to our pesky 'Spanish fly' problem: a makeshift plastic bag trap that did the trick. No more annoying flies. I married a genius. Next: more music.
0 2025/01/31 13:34:47 zebec
Afterwards we stopped in little Bestue, a sleepy Pyrenees village with outstanding views and much humanized landscape. I mean that it is known for its extensive farm terraces. This charming Bestue corner revealed a traditional bit of local architecture: the truncated stone chimney known as a witch's hat seen above. Those were once created by superstitious Pyrenees builders to ward off the approach of evil witches. The village vista's 'table' was actually a wide chunk of ancient sea fossil!
Afterwards we stopped in little Bestue, a sleepy Pyrenees village with outstanding views and much humanized landscape. I mean that it is known for its extensive farm terraces. This charming Bestue corner revealed a traditional bit of local architecture: the truncated stone chimney known as a witch's hat seen above. Those were once created by superstitious Pyrenees builders to ward off the approach of evil witches. The village vista's 'table' was actually a wide chunk of ancient sea fossil!
0 2025/01/31 13:34:33 zebec
There were no washrooms so...
There were no washrooms so...
0 2025/01/31 13:34:24 zebec
We four had our bocadillo picnic lunch at the remote and empty Refugio 'Plana Canal'. Julian had supplied the meal. Birds of prey dive-bombed the area from the clouds for their own lunch as they hunted something nearby. Rabbits? Marmots?
We four had our bocadillo picnic lunch at the remote and empty Refugio 'Plana Canal'. Julian had supplied the meal. Birds of prey dive-bombed the area from the clouds for their own lunch as they hunted something nearby. Rabbits? Marmots?
0 2025/01/31 13:34:09 zebec
On the long, rocky entry trail, we drove past waterfalls with rainbows and also some landslide damage. The latter was the result of recent rainfall. It was a comfy 12 degrees in the sun, paired with exhilarating fresh air. One can see the route in this photo, as it appears horizontally three-quarters of the way down.
On the long, rocky entry trail, we drove past waterfalls with rainbows and also some landslide damage. The latter was the result of recent rainfall. It was a comfy 12 degrees in the sun, paired with exhilarating fresh air. One can see the route in this photo, as it appears horizontally three-quarters of the way down.
0 2025/01/31 13:33:56 zebec
The steep and deep ravine is popular with hardy hikers. We only lasted part way. *A coincidence. We actually saw the above-pictured guide Raquel leading a troupe of 20 senior hikers there, not realizing whom she was! We'd not yet met her and did not know what she looked like. We finally met her for the first time a couple of days later, along with her husband Juancho.
The steep and deep ravine is popular with hardy hikers. We only lasted part way. *A coincidence. We actually saw the above-pictured guide Raquel leading a troupe of 20 senior hikers there, not realizing whom she was! We'd not yet met her and did not know what she looked like. We finally met her for the first time a couple of days later, along with her husband Juancho.
0 2025/01/31 13:33:35 zebec
Anisclo's signature attraction (that word) was an immense, deep gorge gouged out millions of years ago. Eons of sculpted erosion. The gurgling Bellos trout river was just below. Unfortunately, its other key attraction seems nearly-extinct, the rare 'sarria' or 'chamois' goat-antelope, also known as 'capra pierneca.'
Anisclo's signature attraction (that word) was an immense, deep gorge gouged out millions of years ago. Eons of sculpted erosion. The gurgling Bellos trout river was just below. Unfortunately, its other key attraction seems nearly-extinct, the rare 'sarria' or 'chamois' goat-antelope, also known as 'capra pierneca.'
0 2025/01/31 13:33:07 zebec
These teen punks were into Drake and Lady Gaga.
These teen punks were into Drake and Lady Gaga.
0 2025/01/31 13:32:54 zebec
Anisclo's smooth pastures were filled with cattle. Cow patties were mixed with the mud everywhere. The black companion to this pair of cows was unexpectedly startled by my presence and began a panicked charge in our direction. I'd merely been walking by it with my Nikon inside my Domke bag. That sudden cow run was FELT as well as seen: the big beast's weight made the ground shudder. It soon backed off. Lucky that it wasn't a bull!
Anisclo's smooth pastures were filled with cattle. Cow patties were mixed with the mud everywhere. The black companion to this pair of cows was unexpectedly startled by my presence and began a panicked charge in our direction. I'd merely been walking by it with my Nikon inside my Domke bag. That sudden cow run was FELT as well as seen: the big beast's weight made the ground shudder. It soon backed off. Lucky that it wasn't a bull!
0 2025/01/31 13:32:43 zebec
A corral was nearby. Cowboys have ranching rights throughout certain park domains, and this has led to some controversy.
A corral was nearby. Cowboys have ranching rights throughout certain park domains, and this has led to some controversy.
0 2025/01/31 13:32:30 zebec
Intriguing geology was never far off. The huge green hills just across were streaked by strange irrigation streams, looooong ones made by Mother Nature. A major fossil field also lies close by.
Intriguing geology was never far off. The huge green hills just across were streaked by strange irrigation streams, looooong ones made by Mother Nature. A major fossil field also lies close by.
0 2025/01/31 13:32:16 zebec
Our lunch picnic was at the remote Plana Canal hut. More than once, large birds of prey dived from the clouds with force, hunting after something close by. Rabbits? Marmots?
Our lunch picnic was at the remote Plana Canal hut. More than once, large birds of prey dived from the clouds with force, hunting after something close by. Rabbits? Marmots?
0 2025/01/31 13:32:04 zebec
Julian with his telescope. He also showed us all a cool app on his phone that labelled the names of the mountains and other features as they appeared right in front of us.
Julian with his telescope. He also showed us all a cool app on his phone that labelled the names of the mountains and other features as they appeared right in front of us.
0 2025/01/31 13:31:45 zebec
Anisclo. The sole sounds in the otherwise silent valley, were the whinnying of a few ponies plus the discordant tinkling of cowbells. Mia informed us that locals will say, "LETS GO FOR SOME SAKSIA THERAPY!" Saksia refers to the meditative quality created by that symphony of cowbells so identified with remote mountain hiking here.
Anisclo. The sole sounds in the otherwise silent valley, were the whinnying of a few ponies plus the discordant tinkling of cowbells. Mia informed us that locals will say, "LETS GO FOR SOME SAKSIA THERAPY!" Saksia refers to the meditative quality created by that symphony of cowbells so identified with remote mountain hiking here.
0 2025/01/31 13:25:20 zebec
While viewing this holm oak, we were approached by duck hunters. "Seen anything so far?" they asked. "Naw, just some marmots n' chamois tracks," came the reply. The rock bastion Castillo Major (2014m) was in front of us. Beside it were the highly-visible trio of snowcapped peaks known as 'The 3 Marias.' Using Julian's binoculars, we saw cliff faces stained from the white shit of 'bearded' nesting Egyptian/African vultures. Birds of prey were ever-present high in the skies throughout this trip.
While viewing this holm oak, we were approached by duck hunters. "Seen anything so far?" they asked. "Naw, just some marmots n' chamois tracks," came the reply. The rock bastion Castillo Major (2014m) was in front of us. Beside it were the highly-visible trio of snowcapped peaks known as 'The 3 Marias.' Using Julian's binoculars, we saw cliff faces stained from the white shit of 'bearded' nesting Egyptian/African vultures. Birds of prey were ever-present high in the skies throughout this trip.
0 2025/01/31 13:17:07 zebec
The signature berries of the Pyrenees are the 'pataculo' or damask rose. Despite being high in vitamin C, it can cause constipation (see 'culo'). Julian handed us some dried ones, already turning a yellow-orange tinge. Elsewhere: a kind of vine growing out of rockfaces used for both animal plus human abortion. We were also shown the large, light-green bush known as 'the difficult mother-in-law'! A hard, inflexible bush mind you.
The signature berries of the Pyrenees are the 'pataculo' or damask rose. Despite being high in vitamin C, it can cause constipation (see 'culo'). Julian handed us some dried ones, already turning a yellow-orange tinge. Elsewhere: a kind of vine growing out of rockfaces used for both animal plus human abortion. We were also shown the large, light-green bush known as 'the difficult mother-in-law'! A hard, inflexible bush mind you.
0 2025/01/31 13:11:57 zebec
Anisclo Canyon (alt. 1740m) receives fewer tourists than more high-profile parts of Ordesa-Perdido park. The drive there is interesting too. One farm on its outskirts featured a collection of multiple different scarecrows. Were they for sale?  As mentioned above, our guide Julian had brought his ESL tutor pal Mia as translator. Btw, the sign here says NO DRONES.
Anisclo Canyon (alt. 1740m) receives fewer tourists than more high-profile parts of Ordesa-Perdido park. The drive there is interesting too. One farm on its outskirts featured a collection of multiple different scarecrows. Were they for sale? As mentioned above, our guide Julian had brought his ESL tutor pal Mia as translator. Btw, the sign here says NO DRONES.
0 2025/01/31 13:06:30 zebec
This was a particularly floral area, with substantial pasture. Shown here is violet saffron crocus, but there was also 'oreja de osos' (bear ears') a primrose that survived the tropical prehistory and grows near karst cracks and fractures. Also seen: gentian, saxifrage, lilies, houseleek, cinquefoil, , alpenrose, rododendrum, silverbirch and fake cannabis that is toxic. Here, beech is called 'fresno.'
This was a particularly floral area, with substantial pasture. Shown here is violet saffron crocus, but there was also 'oreja de osos' (bear ears') a primrose that survived the tropical prehistory and grows near karst cracks and fractures. Also seen: gentian, saxifrage, lilies, houseleek, cinquefoil, , alpenrose, rododendrum, silverbirch and fake cannabis that is toxic. Here, beech is called 'fresno.'
0 2025/01/31 00:26:29 zebec
There were two pine species, black plus orange or Scot. Each preferred its own altitude. During our brief stop at this mirador, we asked Raquel to clarify various Spanish accents. She explained that Andalucians drop the final letter; Northeners (inc. Toledo) are proper and pronounce all letters; Zaragosans 'sing' sentences while the Euskadi do a hard 'K' as their language is not a Latin-based one. Her explanation was fun!
There were two pine species, black plus orange or Scot. Each preferred its own altitude. During our brief stop at this mirador, we asked Raquel to clarify various Spanish accents. She explained that Andalucians drop the final letter; Northeners (inc. Toledo) are proper and pronounce all letters; Zaragosans 'sing' sentences while the Euskadi do a hard 'K' as their language is not a Latin-based one. Her explanation was fun!
0 2025/01/31 00:26:13 zebec
These hikers were excited to have just seen a nearby ostrich fossil on one particular rockface. They may have been German. Raquel's clients tend to be French, Belgian, Dutch and Spanish.
*next: Julian and Mia's tour of the wild Anisclo canyon.
These hikers were excited to have just seen a nearby ostrich fossil on one particular rockface. They may have been German. Raquel's clients tend to be French, Belgian, Dutch and Spanish. *next: Julian and Mia's tour of the wild Anisclo canyon.
0 2025/01/30 23:51:31 zebec
Cotiella's Clump Massif had a neighbor, the 2427m high Penu del Mediodia. The latter had intriguing patches of gold-coloured scree high above.
Cotiella's Clump Massif had a neighbor, the 2427m high Penu del Mediodia. The latter had intriguing patches of gold-coloured scree high above.
0 2025/01/30 23:51:18 zebec
The sun kept making the mountain brighter.
The sun kept making the mountain brighter.
0 2025/01/30 23:51:01 zebec
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