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zebec
July 21, 2019
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That sneaky driver Alejandro may have skipped our requested D918 westerly route via Col Tourmalet but at least the first part of that loooong transfer went through some pretty French mountain towns in the Aure valley. We enjoyed seeing Guchen, Cadeac and St. Lary Soulan. As we expected, those Hautes Pyrenees places were less earthy than Spanish Pyrenees towns and more I dunno, 'antiseptic'. Cow herds had blocked us earlier back in Aragon.
That sneaky driver Alejandro may have skipped our requested D918 westerly route via Col Tourmalet but at least the first part of that loooong transfer went through some pretty French mountain towns in the Aure valley. We enjoyed seeing Guchen, Cadeac and St. Lary Soulan. As we expected, those Hautes Pyrenees places were less earthy than Spanish Pyrenees towns and more I dunno, 'antiseptic'. Cow herds had blocked us earlier back in Aragon.
0 2025/03/24 15:21:33 zebec
This was the first sight that greeted Mrs Z and I after coming through the abovementioned tunnel. The Sierra Pelada (Tramezaiguas) was 2430 m in height. These are its slopes after some rain. *image taken through window of moving taxi.
This was the first sight that greeted Mrs Z and I after coming through the abovementioned tunnel. The Sierra Pelada (Tramezaiguas) was 2430 m in height. These are its slopes after some rain. *image taken through window of moving taxi.
0 2025/03/24 15:18:46 zebec
This trip seemed to feature lovely glasswork here and there.
This trip seemed to feature lovely glasswork here and there.
0 2025/03/24 15:17:41 zebec
Donc, pousser pour entrez cette TR. First, an overview.
Donc, pousser pour entrez cette TR. First, an overview.
0 2025/03/24 15:14:48 zebec
The Soaso steps looking west towards Punta Munesma aka Tobacor. This was the final spectacular lookout. It came with the most strenuous hike. One member of our troupe went up anyway, despite her recent surgery! If you visit the Pyrenees, put this tour top of your list. Trust me. *next: Ainsa conclusion.
The Soaso steps looking west towards Punta Munesma aka Tobacor. This was the final spectacular lookout. It came with the most strenuous hike. One member of our troupe went up anyway, despite her recent surgery! If you visit the Pyrenees, put this tour top of your list. Trust me. *next: Ainsa conclusion.
0 2025/02/02 20:19:28 zebec
Dots of colour. Fall was just beginning to show its true colours. On this slope we spotted a resting brown male 'sarrio' goat-antelope. Jesus had brought a telescope. We also saw vultures, marmots and one chamois.
Dots of colour. Fall was just beginning to show its true colours. On this slope we spotted a resting brown male 'sarrio' goat-antelope. Jesus had brought a telescope. We also saw vultures, marmots and one chamois.
0 2025/02/02 20:19:16 zebec
0 2025/02/02 20:18:59 zebec
Pretty sure that this mirador Ziarazils along the Faixa pelai. It had a muddy-floored, well-defined stone perimeter. Its sign read: 'Don't throw stones down into the valley because you could hit those below.'
Pretty sure that this mirador Ziarazils along the Faixa pelai. It had a muddy-floored, well-defined stone perimeter. Its sign read: 'Don't throw stones down into the valley because you could hit those below.'
0 2025/02/02 20:18:39 zebec
Same location.The forested escarpment scenery just did not quit.
Same location.The forested escarpment scenery just did not quit.
0 2025/02/02 20:18:30 zebec
0 2025/02/02 20:18:18 zebec
It was fantastic. Here we see the mirador with two names: Bacarizuala by the Brecha(finger) de Azares/Tito Basta.  Just across was the Roland gap, Taillon and Marbore mountains.The geology reminded me of Yosemite and also the Canadian Rockies. the heights gave most of us mild headaches so we took Tylenol.
It was fantastic. Here we see the mirador with two names: Bacarizuala by the Brecha(finger) de Azares/Tito Basta. Just across was the Roland gap, Taillon and Marbore mountains.The geology reminded me of Yosemite and also the Canadian Rockies. the heights gave most of us mild headaches so we took Tylenol.
0 2025/02/02 20:18:10 zebec
We were up among the clouds. It got cooler.
We were up among the clouds. It got cooler.
0 2025/02/02 20:18:01 zebec
Our drive across to Torla took us through Ainsa. Juancho took the time to clarify Bielsa's past tragedy. Franco had forbidden any further carnival celebrations, but the stubborn residents of Bielsa were justly proud of their own annual Carnavale. They went ahead anyway. Franco sent in his troops as a reprisal. Many women took their kids across the border to safety in France, but the males of Bielsa paid a heavy price. After Ainsa: the N260/rio Ara with Boltana, Fiscal, Servise then Broto.
Our drive across to Torla took us through Ainsa. Juancho took the time to clarify Bielsa's past tragedy. Franco had forbidden any further carnival celebrations, but the stubborn residents of Bielsa were justly proud of their own annual Carnavale. They went ahead anyway. Franco sent in his troops as a reprisal. Many women took their kids across the border to safety in France, but the males of Bielsa paid a heavy price. After Ainsa: the N260/rio Ara with Boltana, Fiscal, Servise then Broto.
0 2025/02/02 19:55:30 zebec
0 2025/02/02 19:52:51 zebec
0 2025/02/02 19:52:42 zebec
0 2025/02/02 19:52:31 zebec
Here is but one example, branches stripped of their bark. The cows and their calves had the run of the valley floor. Cue the (for us) humorous sign without words, just a cow symbol with a red line across it. that meant 'Por favor Parador guests: please keep the gate closed.'
Here is but one example, branches stripped of their bark. The cows and their calves had the run of the valley floor. Cue the (for us) humorous sign without words, just a cow symbol with a red line across it. that meant 'Por favor Parador guests: please keep the gate closed.'
0 2025/02/02 19:52:15 zebec
This park is gorgeous (heh heh). There were nine of us in the tour van, including Jesus the guide. The 45 euros fee was very reasonable. The were four or five stops and the views just kept getting better with each one! We began by crossing the Romanesque Glera bridge. Soon we were in an ascent through the Llanos plains (Diazas) with the Sta Ana chapel. Cruceta-Herradura was the first stop, followed by Molar with its view over St. Elena's gorge. Then as seen here: Punta Acuta Cuta (Vio valley).
This park is gorgeous (heh heh). There were nine of us in the tour van, including Jesus the guide. The 45 euros fee was very reasonable. The were four or five stops and the views just kept getting better with each one! We began by crossing the Romanesque Glera bridge. Soon we were in an ascent through the Llanos plains (Diazas) with the Sta Ana chapel. Cruceta-Herradura was the first stop, followed by Molar with its view over St. Elena's gorge. Then as seen here: Punta Acuta Cuta (Vio valley).
0 2025/02/02 19:51:52 zebec
Heavy rainfall a month earlier had resulted in serious flooding within the Circo di Pineta. This was the valley that we looked down onto from the Estiva refugio on the previous daytrip. The Ermita di Pineta chapel beside the parador was unharmed and the Visitor Center still stood. But the riverbed was littered with tons of flood refuse.
Heavy rainfall a month earlier had resulted in serious flooding within the Circo di Pineta. This was the valley that we looked down onto from the Estiva refugio on the previous daytrip. The Ermita di Pineta chapel beside the parador was unharmed and the Visitor Center still stood. But the riverbed was littered with tons of flood refuse.
0 2025/02/02 19:51:29 zebec
This is Torla, a town with a peerless location with Mt. Mondaruego looming above. Just as I took this shot, a young Chinese tourist couple tried to squeeze their rental between two tightly parked cars. There was an audible SMACK!! There'd been plenty of open spaces elsewhere in that parking lot, so the local owner of the most damaged car came running with a WTF?! look on his face! Btw, just west of Torla was the site of that recent ski lift accident.
This is Torla, a town with a peerless location with Mt. Mondaruego looming above. Just as I took this shot, a young Chinese tourist couple tried to squeeze their rental between two tightly parked cars. There was an audible SMACK!! There'd been plenty of open spaces elsewhere in that parking lot, so the local owner of the most damaged car came running with a WTF?! look on his face! Btw, just west of Torla was the site of that recent ski lift accident.
0 2025/02/02 19:51:07 zebec
Btw, this is the Bielsa parador. We enjoyed our three nights there, with VG food, excellent service and a fine fireplace in the lobby common area. The latter came in handy as it rained 90% of the time. Waterfalls such as Cascada Cinqa streamed down the cliff face of Mt Perdido and company.
Btw, this is the Bielsa parador. We enjoyed our three nights there, with VG food, excellent service and a fine fireplace in the lobby common area. The latter came in handy as it rained 90% of the time. Waterfalls such as Cascada Cinqa streamed down the cliff face of Mt Perdido and company.
0 2025/02/02 19:50:52 zebec
This map shows the heart of Ordesa-Perdido park proper. It receives the most visitors and those visitors are tightly controlled. To the best of my knowledge, no private vehicles have ever been allowed and there have been but three van tour companies allowed to operate inside the park. My Torla connection was one of them and an outfit with the same name also was in nearby Broto. The third van company was in Fanlo, but it seems out of business now.
This map shows the heart of Ordesa-Perdido park proper. It receives the most visitors and those visitors are tightly controlled. To the best of my knowledge, no private vehicles have ever been allowed and there have been but three van tour companies allowed to operate inside the park. My Torla connection was one of them and an outfit with the same name also was in nearby Broto. The third van company was in Fanlo, but it seems out of business now.
0 2025/02/02 19:41:28 zebec
A shot taken early morn from the gas station at Salinas village. Juancho (Juan Jose) had just fetched me from our new lodgings up at the Bielsa parador and he and I were en route to Torla. Torla was the location of the sole van-tour outfit authorized to take visitors to Ordesa-Perdido park proper. Mrs Z wasn't interested in either the loooong two hour drive from Bielsa to Torla (around the entire bottom half of the park) nor the actual hiking ahead.
A shot taken early morn from the gas station at Salinas village. Juancho (Juan Jose) had just fetched me from our new lodgings up at the Bielsa parador and he and I were en route to Torla. Torla was the location of the sole van-tour outfit authorized to take visitors to Ordesa-Perdido park proper. Mrs Z wasn't interested in either the loooong two hour drive from Bielsa to Torla (around the entire bottom half of the park) nor the actual hiking ahead.
0 2025/02/02 19:41:15 zebec
Those rowers still use authentic pinewood rafts. They also use specific vocabulary and dress is traditional clothing. That includes black vests, pants and berets with white shirts and stockings, Black rubber sandals complete the look.
Those rowers still use authentic pinewood rafts. They also use specific vocabulary and dress is traditional clothing. That includes black vests, pants and berets with white shirts and stockings, Black rubber sandals complete the look.
0 2025/02/02 10:13:28 zebec
This Pineta valley part starts with this carving. For me, this fellow represents plucky determination. Like for example, if a certain Trip Reporter suddenly had several hours of their labeled photo essay work suddenly disappear at 2am due to some indecipherable tech issue. Sigh...
This Pineta valley part starts with this carving. For me, this fellow represents plucky determination. Like for example, if a certain Trip Reporter suddenly had several hours of their labeled photo essay work suddenly disappear at 2am due to some indecipherable tech issue. Sigh...
0 2025/02/02 10:12:17 zebec
Igneous rocks plus many other sorts, were displayed as though on display at an art show, most covered with a wide variety of colorful lichens.
Igneous rocks plus many other sorts, were displayed as though on display at an art show, most covered with a wide variety of colorful lichens.
0 2025/02/02 10:11:29 zebec
The variety went on and on...
The variety went on and on...
0 2025/02/02 10:11:19 zebec
The aptly-named Fuende la Pieta was on the slope directly behind the hut. This veritable rock garden gallery proved Mother Nature had once earned an Art degree.
The aptly-named Fuende la Pieta was on the slope directly behind the hut. This veritable rock garden gallery proved Mother Nature had once earned an Art degree.
0 2025/02/02 10:10:54 zebec
Where are we, Switzerland? This 'Meadow of the Corders' is favoured by local shepherds. Wonder what they pay for their trained sheepdogs?
Where are we, Switzerland? This 'Meadow of the Corders' is favoured by local shepherds. Wonder what they pay for their trained sheepdogs?
0 2025/02/02 10:10:30 zebec
La Estiva Refugio is a destination for students taking Mountain Guide courses. Apparently, the first team to arrive there on the final exam gets to drink the waiting bottle of wine. back at Solomonte HQ we'd seen their HUMUNGOUS wall map. It clearly showed the location of La Estiva, marked with the visible symbol of a wine bottle! Cristina and Jorge shared their delicious homegrown yellow cherry tomatoes with us all, during the bocadillo-yogurt lunch at the hut.
La Estiva Refugio is a destination for students taking Mountain Guide courses. Apparently, the first team to arrive there on the final exam gets to drink the waiting bottle of wine. back at Solomonte HQ we'd seen their HUMUNGOUS wall map. It clearly showed the location of La Estiva, marked with the visible symbol of a wine bottle! Cristina and Jorge shared their delicious homegrown yellow cherry tomatoes with us all, during the bocadillo-yogurt lunch at the hut.
0 2025/02/02 10:10:07 zebec
Our goal was La Estiva Refugio hut, seen here in the distance. The mountain the distance is half in Spain and half in France.
Our goal was La Estiva Refugio hut, seen here in the distance. The mountain the distance is half in Spain and half in France.
0 2025/02/02 10:09:56 zebec
In the center, one can see the distinctive twin peaks of Los Astuzas (love that name). The leftmost twin is Gran Astuzas, which is 3080m. Its little brother Pequeno Astuzas is 'only' 3012. I mention these measurements to add some perspective. These are Tall mountains. Behind those twins is the popular ice climb 'Couloir Swan,' plus a tarn mountain lake.
In the center, one can see the distinctive twin peaks of Los Astuzas (love that name). The leftmost twin is Gran Astuzas, which is 3080m. Its little brother Pequeno Astuzas is 'only' 3012. I mention these measurements to add some perspective. These are Tall mountains. Behind those twins is the popular ice climb 'Couloir Swan,' plus a tarn mountain lake.
0 2025/02/02 10:09:29 zebec
We took a couple break stops. We learned that most mountains here have two names: Spanish and French - we were close to the border.
We took a couple break stops. We learned that most mountains here have two names: Spanish and French - we were close to the border.
0 2025/02/02 10:09:11 zebec
This was a remote area. The only other humans that we saw were some Moroccan timber crews.
This was a remote area. The only other humans that we saw were some Moroccan timber crews.
0 2025/02/02 10:08:53 zebec
Raquel pointed out this unique site: an ancient collapsed cave roof.
Next: the Conclusion, with Ordesa Park proper, the Parador, Ainsa town and music.
Raquel pointed out this unique site: an ancient collapsed cave roof. Next: the Conclusion, with Ordesa Park proper, the Parador, Ainsa town and music.
0 2025/02/02 10:08:40 zebec
Mt. Perdido is one of 'Las Tres Sorores' along with Marbore and Soum de Ramon. Each of those enormous rock legends towers higher than 3000m and are featured on countless postcards, calendars, book covers and the like.
Mt. Perdido is one of 'Las Tres Sorores' along with Marbore and Soum de Ramon. Each of those enormous rock legends towers higher than 3000m and are featured on countless postcards, calendars, book covers and the like.
0 2025/02/02 10:08:30 zebec
After driving past Zapatierna, we kept going up and up. It was our windiest, and coldest daytrip yet. It was also the one with the most tricky driving. I tried to reduce my chirpiness to a minimum so that Raquel could concentrate behind the wheel. In this very stretch, an alert Mrs Z began to notice patches of dying/dead pines. An invasive species of butterfly had been nesting throughout. The firs and beeches seemed resistant so far. the poor pines not so much. A problem for forestry personnel.
After driving past Zapatierna, we kept going up and up. It was our windiest, and coldest daytrip yet. It was also the one with the most tricky driving. I tried to reduce my chirpiness to a minimum so that Raquel could concentrate behind the wheel. In this very stretch, an alert Mrs Z began to notice patches of dying/dead pines. An invasive species of butterfly had been nesting throughout. The firs and beeches seemed resistant so far. the poor pines not so much. A problem for forestry personnel.
0 2025/02/02 10:08:16 zebec
And it had a beautiful lake. The looming karstic landscape hinted at highlights to come.
And it had a beautiful lake. The looming karstic landscape hinted at highlights to come.
0 2025/02/02 10:07:57 zebec
In Espierba, we stopped at the embalse/dam. It was a surprisingly beautiful man-made site, with a marsh within a sizable lake.
In Espierba, we stopped at the embalse/dam. It was a surprisingly beautiful man-made site, with a marsh within a sizable lake.
0 2025/02/02 10:07:45 zebec
The Barraso and Cinqa (seen-kah) rivers were two of the gorgeous rios that we saw. Cinqa is the main course where the annual Navatas is celebrated. Hardy teams of rowers reenact the historic river voyages when lumber was moved towards markets in the era before roads.
The Barraso and Cinqa (seen-kah) rivers were two of the gorgeous rios that we saw. Cinqa is the main course where the annual Navatas is celebrated. Hardy teams of rowers reenact the historic river voyages when lumber was moved towards markets in the era before roads.
0 2025/02/02 10:07:11 zebec
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