Trip Report: South Africa
Jan 29th, 2006, 07:35 PM
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Trip Report: South Africa
What an amazing trip!!!! My husband and I have been many fabulous places and stayed at truly top notch hotels before. But South Africa was by far the best vacation ever! Here is my review!!! This review includes Cape Town's The Commodore Hotel, the Winelands' Spier Hotel, and Royal Malewane. We also spent two nights in Amsterdam, but I will not be reviewing it since its the Africa board.
Travel Agent: Tricia Townsend of Protravel in NYC
This is the second trip Tricia has planned for us. I found her in Conde Nast Traveler when she was listed as the top agent for honeymoons. The magazine does not lie. She is excellent. Everything she plans is flawless and she gives excellent advice. She is very accurate in her description of places and hotels. She always tells the negative and the positive. I find her to be right on the money each time. She is extremely well traveled even for a TA. She knows all of the places well and the hotels treat you extra specially because you are her client. She charges a small fee, but it is well worth it. Our local tour operator was Good Taste. We used Emilene as our private tour guide for the days we were in Cape Town and the Winelands. She is beyond superb. She is so knowledgeable about the history and culture of South AFrica. She shares what is was like to live through the transition. I would highly highly recommend her. She made all of our reservations and each restaurant was top notch (Pigalle, Bukara, Black Marlin, and Baia, etc. We never thought about a thing.
Cape Town: Commodore Hotel
I love amazing hotels, but I decided to save money in Cape Town. I figured that we would be gone sightseeing most of the time, so it would be a waste to splurge on this part of the trip. The Commodore has a great location (across the street from the V&A Waterfront). This was perfect for us. I felt safe walking to the waterfront by myself when my husband was sleeping. The service was really good...all of the employees were very friendly. Our rate included breakfast which was also very good. So for location, service, and breakfast, I was pretty impressed. However, I did not like the nautical decor of the hotel. The hotel was clean and updated, and we had a suite with a balcony. But I really wasn't crazy about the decor. In the end, it was worth staying there for the location and the price. So no regrets.
Winelands: Spier
Tricia recommended that I stay someplace else in the winelands. But I picked Spier because I had seen pictures of the Cheetah Reserve and wanted to visit. Tricia explained that it was unnecessary to stay at the hotel, but I ended up doing it anyway. My feelings on Spier were mixed. We had an ENORMOUS and beautiful suite. It was HUGE. However, other than that, I was unimpressed with the hotel. Spier is very expansive and a large hotel. It has a touristy feel to it. I prefer smaller hotels. The service was also terrible. Maybe terrible is the wrong word....it was more absent. No one showed us to the room, it took two phone calls to receive our luggage in the room, complimentary wine was brought to our room at 11pm at night and without a corkscrew. We ate at Moyo at night. It was definitely an experience, but not really our thing. Too many people for us. I don't regret it, but I wouldn't do it again. The cheetah reserve is basically a fenced in area with a bunch of cheetahs. There really is no educational component as far as I could see. But we did pay to pet the cheetah cubs which was very neat. It was a little scary because you know that this place would never exist in America because of the liability. But I was happy to get my picture petting the cheetahs. But Tricia was right...no need to spend the night at Spier.
Travel Agent: Tricia Townsend of Protravel in NYC
This is the second trip Tricia has planned for us. I found her in Conde Nast Traveler when she was listed as the top agent for honeymoons. The magazine does not lie. She is excellent. Everything she plans is flawless and she gives excellent advice. She is very accurate in her description of places and hotels. She always tells the negative and the positive. I find her to be right on the money each time. She is extremely well traveled even for a TA. She knows all of the places well and the hotels treat you extra specially because you are her client. She charges a small fee, but it is well worth it. Our local tour operator was Good Taste. We used Emilene as our private tour guide for the days we were in Cape Town and the Winelands. She is beyond superb. She is so knowledgeable about the history and culture of South AFrica. She shares what is was like to live through the transition. I would highly highly recommend her. She made all of our reservations and each restaurant was top notch (Pigalle, Bukara, Black Marlin, and Baia, etc. We never thought about a thing.
Cape Town: Commodore Hotel
I love amazing hotels, but I decided to save money in Cape Town. I figured that we would be gone sightseeing most of the time, so it would be a waste to splurge on this part of the trip. The Commodore has a great location (across the street from the V&A Waterfront). This was perfect for us. I felt safe walking to the waterfront by myself when my husband was sleeping. The service was really good...all of the employees were very friendly. Our rate included breakfast which was also very good. So for location, service, and breakfast, I was pretty impressed. However, I did not like the nautical decor of the hotel. The hotel was clean and updated, and we had a suite with a balcony. But I really wasn't crazy about the decor. In the end, it was worth staying there for the location and the price. So no regrets.
Winelands: Spier
Tricia recommended that I stay someplace else in the winelands. But I picked Spier because I had seen pictures of the Cheetah Reserve and wanted to visit. Tricia explained that it was unnecessary to stay at the hotel, but I ended up doing it anyway. My feelings on Spier were mixed. We had an ENORMOUS and beautiful suite. It was HUGE. However, other than that, I was unimpressed with the hotel. Spier is very expansive and a large hotel. It has a touristy feel to it. I prefer smaller hotels. The service was also terrible. Maybe terrible is the wrong word....it was more absent. No one showed us to the room, it took two phone calls to receive our luggage in the room, complimentary wine was brought to our room at 11pm at night and without a corkscrew. We ate at Moyo at night. It was definitely an experience, but not really our thing. Too many people for us. I don't regret it, but I wouldn't do it again. The cheetah reserve is basically a fenced in area with a bunch of cheetahs. There really is no educational component as far as I could see. But we did pay to pet the cheetah cubs which was very neat. It was a little scary because you know that this place would never exist in America because of the liability. But I was happy to get my picture petting the cheetahs. But Tricia was right...no need to spend the night at Spier.
Jan 29th, 2006, 07:49 PM
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We then were off to Royal Malewane. We flew Nelair to the lodge on a 4 seat (two passengers, two pilots) Cessna. I sat in the co-pilot seat and was actually allowed to fly the plane (another thing that would never occur in America). I felt a little bit like a celeb given that it was just my husband and me! Once we arrived at the Royal Malewane, it was the Royal treatment all of the way! Excellent food, service, and accomodations!!! The staff is really excellent. They are friendly and not obsequious. They go above and beyond. Each night there seemed to be a surprise...(a bubble bath with a hundred candles and champagne and chocolates when we walked in after a game drive, a special boma performance, a surprise dinner in the bush, etc.). The room was gorgeous. We had room number 3 which was the room featured in their brochures and the only one that overlooks the watering hole. We were told that we must know someone who knows somebody to get that suite (thanks tricia!). The suite had its own private deck, outdoor shower, and plunge pool. The bed was also extra comfy. The hotel cost $2,000 a night, but it was money well spent.
In terms of game viewing, it is harder for me to review. This is our first safari so I am not sure how it compares. I was told by a couple we were with that had traveled the world many times over, that the game drive was slower moving than others they had been on. We stayed on the dirt path the entire time. The ranger explained that it was because it had rained, and driving off the path on wet ground destroys the bush. I definitely like their eco-friendly philosophy, but a more rough drive might have been fun as well! We saw a ton of animals....leopard, lions, elephants, porcupine, zebras, impala, nyala, two poisonous snakes, rhino, hippo, buffalo, stork, wildebeast, warthogs, giraffe, etc. The best thing for me was how many baby animals we saw. It was great!! We definitely got very close to the animals.
I am not sure what else to share. I would definitely recommend going to the District 6 Museum in Cape Town. It was very moving. Bring an extra piece of luggage for things to buy. We had to stop purchasing things, because we had no room left. I bought a ton of stuff at Kraal Gallery which I loved. I would also recommend going to the beach one afternoon. We spent an afternoon there and it was wonderful.
In terms of game viewing, it is harder for me to review. This is our first safari so I am not sure how it compares. I was told by a couple we were with that had traveled the world many times over, that the game drive was slower moving than others they had been on. We stayed on the dirt path the entire time. The ranger explained that it was because it had rained, and driving off the path on wet ground destroys the bush. I definitely like their eco-friendly philosophy, but a more rough drive might have been fun as well! We saw a ton of animals....leopard, lions, elephants, porcupine, zebras, impala, nyala, two poisonous snakes, rhino, hippo, buffalo, stork, wildebeast, warthogs, giraffe, etc. The best thing for me was how many baby animals we saw. It was great!! We definitely got very close to the animals.
I am not sure what else to share. I would definitely recommend going to the District 6 Museum in Cape Town. It was very moving. Bring an extra piece of luggage for things to buy. We had to stop purchasing things, because we had no room left. I bought a ton of stuff at Kraal Gallery which I loved. I would also recommend going to the beach one afternoon. We spent an afternoon there and it was wonderful.
Jan 29th, 2006, 07:53 PM
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And of course...the pictures!
My husband put these 120 together from the 2,100 that he took. Please excuse the horrible ones of me....I did not have time to veto them before he created the album. I am sure he would also appreciate any photography comments, since he is honing his skills.
I also took a lot of video that we are going to turn into mini movies. We just haven't had the time yet.
My husband put these 120 together from the 2,100 that he took. Please excuse the horrible ones of me....I did not have time to veto them before he created the album. I am sure he would also appreciate any photography comments, since he is honing his skills.
I also took a lot of video that we are going to turn into mini movies. We just haven't had the time yet.
Jan 29th, 2006, 07:53 PM
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PICTURE LINK:
http://share.shutterfly.com/action/w...id=8LatW7FowgQ
http://share.shutterfly.com/action/w...id=8LatW7FowgQ
Jan 30th, 2006, 07:27 AM
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Great photos. I think the cheetah in your first photo is a "king" cheetah -- I have never seen one, only photos.
Also, great animal photos from your safari. You have plenty of the Big 5 and all sorts of other stuff, including a real nice lilac-breasted roller, my favorite safari bird.
Thanks for sharing.
What was the big Cape Town birthday surprise?
Michael
Also, great animal photos from your safari. You have plenty of the Big 5 and all sorts of other stuff, including a real nice lilac-breasted roller, my favorite safari bird.
Thanks for sharing.
What was the big Cape Town birthday surprise?
Michael
Jan 30th, 2006, 04:25 PM
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Welcome back! Another vote for best vacation ever for an African destination. Those photos of you are just the way I pictured you. Actually, when posters' photos appear after numerous forum exchanges, they usually are close to my mental image of the person.
Can you elaborate on the penguin pictures? Where were you and how long did you spend with the penguins? Were you on foot, did you walk amongst them? How close did you get? Anything else about the penguins.
You caught some of the babies you mentioned very nicely on film--with their mamas. I especially liked the mother and baby shots of the lions walking, the zebras, and the elephants reflected in the water. Nice closeup of the buffalo and how lucky to see the lion climbing around in the tree.
As I recall you were contemplating Uganda/Rwanda as an addition/alternative to the South Africa trip. Might that destination turn into trip #2?
Can you elaborate on the penguin pictures? Where were you and how long did you spend with the penguins? Were you on foot, did you walk amongst them? How close did you get? Anything else about the penguins.
You caught some of the babies you mentioned very nicely on film--with their mamas. I especially liked the mother and baby shots of the lions walking, the zebras, and the elephants reflected in the water. Nice closeup of the buffalo and how lucky to see the lion climbing around in the tree.
As I recall you were contemplating Uganda/Rwanda as an addition/alternative to the South Africa trip. Might that destination turn into trip #2?
Jan 30th, 2006, 05:24 PM
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Thanks for sharing your report and photos Dr Andrea. It sounds like you had a wonderful time.
You can let you husband know that he did a fine job on the photos. Also BTW, if your the lovely dark haired woman featured in those pics., there's no need to edit yourself out.
Welcome back;
Sherry
You can let you husband know that he did a fine job on the photos. Also BTW, if your the lovely dark haired woman featured in those pics., there's no need to edit yourself out.
Welcome back;
Sherry
Feb 1st, 2006, 01:55 PM
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Good to see you back and enjoyed the trip.
I decided at the last minute to head back to SA for Xmas and New Year. Thought of you and your original post and tyhe birthday surprise.
I was delighted that you never opted for the helicopter suggestions as the wind howled for three weeks & am sure that a well made plan like that would have come ungklued under those conditions.
I decided at the last minute to head back to SA for Xmas and New Year. Thought of you and your original post and tyhe birthday surprise.
I was delighted that you never opted for the helicopter suggestions as the wind howled for three weeks & am sure that a well made plan like that would have come ungklued under those conditions.
Feb 2nd, 2006, 06:40 AM
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Sounds like a wonderful trip! I agree with you about Spier-we visited the hotel but stayed at Lanzerac which was large also but not quite so touristy and had pretty good service. Also, we used a C Nast Gold list agent for our trip and were extremely happy with his services. Your pictures are beautiful!
Feb 2nd, 2006, 08:32 PM
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Ok...some answers to your questions.
All of the animals were seen at Royal Malewane which is in the Thornybush Reserve. The leopard we saw was a female, not a male.
We stayed three nights. Of course, you always want to stay on vacation longer. But we felt like three nights was enough. If we did longer, I would have gone to a second safari locale. We were away 12 or 13 nights, so when it was time to go...it was ok.
The penguins were great. They are called Jackass penguins. They are on a protected beach that has wooden walkways for all of the tourists. The tour guide told us that there was a oil spill and everyone freaked out about the penguins. South Africa Airways paid to have the penguins shipped somewhere else while they cleaned up the spill. They knew the penguins would just swim back. They removed the penguins in three groups and put a tracking device in one penguin in each group. They named the three penguins Percy, Peter, and Pamela. Each night at the end of the news, they would show a map and update where the penguins were in their travel back to the beach. She said that everyone in South Africa is very protective of these penguins.
My husband's birthday went well. We actually celebrated in Amsterdam at an Indonesian Rice Table. He also partaked in some marijuana while we were there. I think that beat the best birthday gift I could have ever thought of. I was glad that I never booked the helicopter tour given that the two small planes we took gave us enough excitement.
All of the animals were seen at Royal Malewane which is in the Thornybush Reserve. The leopard we saw was a female, not a male.
We stayed three nights. Of course, you always want to stay on vacation longer. But we felt like three nights was enough. If we did longer, I would have gone to a second safari locale. We were away 12 or 13 nights, so when it was time to go...it was ok.
The penguins were great. They are called Jackass penguins. They are on a protected beach that has wooden walkways for all of the tourists. The tour guide told us that there was a oil spill and everyone freaked out about the penguins. South Africa Airways paid to have the penguins shipped somewhere else while they cleaned up the spill. They knew the penguins would just swim back. They removed the penguins in three groups and put a tracking device in one penguin in each group. They named the three penguins Percy, Peter, and Pamela. Each night at the end of the news, they would show a map and update where the penguins were in their travel back to the beach. She said that everyone in South Africa is very protective of these penguins.
My husband's birthday went well. We actually celebrated in Amsterdam at an Indonesian Rice Table. He also partaked in some marijuana while we were there. I think that beat the best birthday gift I could have ever thought of. I was glad that I never booked the helicopter tour given that the two small planes we took gave us enough excitement.
Feb 2nd, 2006, 10:51 PM
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Just a minor correction. Those penguins were once called "Jackass" because of their "bray". But a while back the name was changed to "African". I can't remember the exact reason off-hand, I think it was to differentiste them from another penguin that has a similar call.
