mr_go

Greetings, Bangkok-lovers! My LW and I will be visiting BKK for the first time in November, to celebrate our 20th anniversary. We have searched and researched this forum, read the Fodors Top 25 book on Bangkok, and bought and studied the Nancy Chandler map (plus a laminated map for navigating). We’ve booked a room at the Penn (an unusual splurge for us)…and we’ve booked Tong for 2 whole days.

A lot of what we do will be game-day decisions, based on weather conditions and how we’re feeling. Frankly, if I spend an entire day lounging in the lap of luxury at the Peninsula pool, it won’t be a great tragedy. We are somewhat new to the Asia forum (but not to Fodors), so if you need some background on us…We are 45, fairly fit, from the midwest U.S., love to explore and see cool things, not necessarily foodies, not really shoppers, and not particularly fussy travelers, more the easygoing adventurer types, and we love to take pictures. (To read our previous trip reports, visit us at onelittleworld.com.)

So here’s the general, broad-strokes plan.

<b>Thurs. night</b>…Arrive really late. Crash and sleep like babies.

<b>Friday</b>…Grand Palace and the A-list temples: Wat Phra Kaeo, Wat Pho, Wat Arun, possibly Wat Saket.

<b>Saturday</b>…Chatuchak weekend market, exploring Chinatown and the flower market, khlong boat excursion, drinks at Sky Bar, then wander the Sukhumvit sois in search of dinner.

<b>Sunday &amp; Monday</b>…Tong’s trips to the Tiger Temple, the charming fishing village, the floating market, plus whatever else we all feel like.

<b>Tuesday</b>…Wild card day, a chance for activities &amp; sites that strike our fancy, like the Jim Thompson house, Royal Barge museum, Banglampoo area, Wat Tramit, etc.

<b>Early Wed. morning</b>…Fly away home.

So, does this sound about right to you? Is it too much? Am I missing out on something essential?

Your input is greatly appreciated.

lcuy

I think you've done your research well. You've got a great plan, but lots of room for just wandering.

Days with Tong are such fun, and she will make sure you don't miss anything!.

And i just love the Peninsula! Don't forget that you can take the ferry to their lounge on the other side of the river when you are meeting someone like Tong (or if you are going to SJ Jewelers) who'll have a car. They can park and ferry across to meet you, and it can save you quite a bit of time as the bridge across the river can be very congested sometimes.

Craig

Other than flying all that way for just 5 days on the ground, your plan sounds pretty reasonable. Just a few comments:

Friday will be your first day and you will be jet-lagged. Plan on Grand Palace (Wat Phra Kheo), Wat Pho and Wat Arun - all relatively close to each other. You could also do Wat Arun as part of a klong tour if you are up to it (its pretty relaxing) - either end up at Wat Arun and take a taxi back to the Penn or have the boatman wait for you. If you do it this way, then you'd have time to do something else on Saturday afternoon (see below).

Saturday - skip Chinatown - do the weekend market in the AM and the klong tour in the PM. It will take time to get back and forth to Chatuchak from the Penn whether you go by taxi, skytrain or subway. Make a reservation somewhere for dinner or at least have a plan. Have your drink at Sky Bar after it gets dark (could be before or after dinner depending on how late you eat). There are several good restaurants in the area near Sky Bar - let us know what you enjoy and we can suggest options.

Your two days with Tong sound great.

By Tuesday, you'll have a better &quot;lay of the land&quot; and a better idea what else you want to accomplish.

dogster

Hi mr_go, you'll have lots of BKK experts to help you in here - I just wanted to say that this is a really intelligent post. You've done your research AND added some great info to help the experts help you.

Not much can go wrong my friend. I think you're gonna have a really great time.

BillT

You should go to the Calypso Cabaret- its a ladyboy show. Its great fun and appropriate for all ages. Check out the website- easy to get to its at the Asia Hotel connected to the skytrain. You can reserve your seats on line and then pay for them at the box office when you arrive. We have seen it twice.
great eveninbg entertainment- skip the dinner option as its not worth it.

Craig

A couple more thoughts -

Do get over to the Sukhumvit sois and explore - maybe Tuesday before dinner - pick a restaurant (again, we can help) and wander the area nearby.

I think the Jim Thompson House is a must-do on a first trip to Bangkok. Chinatown and the flower market are also worthwhile...

mr_go

Thanks for the quick feedback, everyone. This is what keeps me coming back to Fodorville!

lcuy: Great tip on the ferry lounge. It's probably a lot quicker and easier to meet Tong there than to make her come to us. I'm all for saving time!

Craig: Bunch of good tips, thanks. Yeah...I was a little iffy about trying to cram Chinatown into that Saturday. Probably best left for later.

dogster: Thanks a lot for your kind words. We are longtime Fodorites, so we kinda know the drill. We'll be frequenting the Asia board more in the coming months, especially as we plan our Tokyo/Kyoto trip next year.

BillT: We've definitely heard of the Calypso Cabaret. I'm game for anything, but I'll have to check with the missus and see if she's interested.

BradinBangkok

I see you are going to Sky Bar. Good move.

I recommend Long Table one night for dinner.

And if you want a real Thai entertainment experience, go to Tawan Dang.

Kathie

I do think you have a good plan. Like Craig, I think the Jim Thompson House is a must-do, so try to make time for it in your schedule. The problem in Bangkok for me is that (even after 20+ trips there) I always have more on my agenda that I can accomplish during my in in Bangkok.

You are using Tong for your time outside the city and that makes sense. I see you plan on visiting the Tiger Temple... people either love it or think it's a travesty. A well-respected animal welfare group did an investigation of the Tiger Temple. You might want to read about the contraversy. Search for Tiger Temple, and I expect you'll find a series of posts about it. The other items you list for Tong all get rave reviews from people.

If you tell us a bit about what kind of food/atmosphere you are looking for we can suggest restaurants for you.

ms_go

I'll add my thanks for the feedback and suggestions (and for all the other posts that have helped thus far in our planning).

Craig, I know it sounds crazy to do this for 6 nights/5 days, but that's really all the time we have. Of course, we thought about closer destinations, but this is something we've really wanted to do--and, hey, we only live once! If it helps, I think we handle the jet lag pretty well. We haven't had much of an issue with it on recent trips to Australia and Japan, on the way over, anyway; coming home was another story, but who cares about that!

As far as food--we have pretty broad tastes and enjoy Thai and most things Asian. Spicy is fine...to a degree. We definitely prefer casual/fun/moderate price range to anything formal. I know there are many posts on this, and we will definitely do our homework, but we welcome any recommendations that fit with our rough plans above. Thanks!

mr_go

Like my LW sez...our food tastes are fairly varied. But I can definitely say that we are both looking forward to the local Thai fare.

Please let us know your favorite dishes that we should try. We eat Thai (well, <i>farang</i> Thai anyway) fairly regularly, so we're not completely unfamiliar...but what indigenous treats are not to be missed?

BradinBangkok

My favorite Thai dish is Boo Padpong Garee. It is a crab curry that I have never found available in the USA.

Tell them to remove the shell if possible. They pretty much mash the crab as if they used a hammer. The way the Thais eat it is like crunching on gravel.

Without the shell is much better.

Craig

mr, ms_go - relatively close to Sky Bar are Harmonique, Tongue Thai and Gallery Cafe - all reasonably priced Thai restaurants. Harmonique is my favorite of the 3.

I have not eaten Thai food in the Sukumvit area recently so I will defer to others - favorites in that area on this board tend to be more upscale and thus more expensive though I am sure there are relatively reasonable places there as well.

dgunbug

Great post. This will help with our trip. We've been thinking along the same lines for our time in Bangkok. The only difference for us is that our first day is Saturday and I'm not sure if we should do the Chatuchak Weekend market that day or on Sunday. We may want to walk around the city a bit first.

After reading so much about Tong, I'm going to try to convince my DH that we need to hire her for at least one day- probably the floating market along with possibly the Rose Garden or something else. Can someone please provide me with Tong's contact info? Does she have a website?

Thanks!

dgunbug

Also, wanted to ask what you all think of the Nancy Chandler map. Should I pre-purchase it or buy it once in Thailand?

Craig

dgunbug - if I were you I'd do the weekend market on Sunday. You will be jet-lagged and not used to the heat on your first day. Do something more leisurely on your first day.

Tong is a favorite on this forum. Give the rose garden a pass.

Buy the map in advance if you can - the few dollars you may save by purchasing it in Bangkok are not worth the hassle of finding it. Also you can plan ahead if you have the map before you go.

Kathie

Some of my faves in the Sukhumvit area: (and you can find them on the Nancy CHandler map)

Lanna Thai at Face see www.facebars.com and click on Bangkok. You can view the restaurants' menus (there is also an Indian restaurant named Hazara). It's a lovely setting, beautiful at night with all of the candles lit. They also have a spa which is one of my faves in Bangkok. You can look at the spa menu as well. We always have one or two meals at Face every trip (as well as spa treatments once or twice). Beautiful, a bit upscale, but not terribly expensive.

I've long enjoyed Lemongrass. It's almost directly across the soi from Emporium. Its in a old teak house, and it has a lovely and changing menu. I've eaten here regularly for probably 20 years.

I few years back we had a wonderful meal at Mahanaga. The next year we had a not very good meal there. It's on the Nancy Chandler map, but at this point, I can't recommend it.

Plan to have lunch when you visit the Jim Thompson House. the cafe has good, inexpensive food in a nice setting.

simpsonc510

Hello from Bangkok. I'm here on a two-week visit right now as I type. I'm staying in the Sukhumvit area (soi 8).

Right down the soi from me is a really nice Thai restaurant called Kinaree. It is in a house, similar to the style of Face, which Kathie has mentioned. Face is quite a bit more rustic, as far as ambiance. Neither Face nore Kinaree are what I would call formal, but you would want to dress &quot;nice&quot; to go to either.

I've not made it to the Long Table yet, but have had a look. It looks really lovely!!! The view is supposed to be fantastic (as is Sky Bar).

TawanDang is a place that I will be visiting (again, for the upteenth time) in the next few days, with a group of local Thai and expat friends. It's a really FUN venue, with great food and entertainment. It is a large German beer hall sort of place, but with Thai food and entertainment. SOOOOOOO much fun.

Your planning is terrific. I am certain you will have a marvelous time here.

Carol

sayko

Great post! This is very helpful our trip as well. We're going to spend 3 days in BKK for the first time in mid-Oct!

simpsonc510

Should add that the TawanDang I enjoy so much is the one that is way out from the city center. A good 20 minute taxi ride. I'm thinking there is another TawanDang closer in... have no idea where... but I've not been to that one. I only go to the ORIGINAL TawanDang.