The Enchanted April, Part Due : : Our long walk in lovely Roma
Jan 28th, 2008, 04:48 AM
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The Enchanted April, Part Due : : Our long walk in lovely Roma
A long, lovely walk indeed.
Greetings beautiful Fodorites, DH and I arrived home safely last evening. I am going to try to type a little to you every day until I finish, it is my solemn vow. Restaurant reviews, my rambling observations and utmost admiration for our beloved Italy to follow.
Nine fabulous nights in spectacular Rome.
My third trip to Italy, DH’s second. I have been to Rome once before. The first thing I want to share with you is to stay in the city if you can; for us and all futures journeys, this is must. What a different experience, and how completely charming in comparison to my first trip. The difference was amazing. I really planned this trip to Rome because DH and I wanted to return to Italy and I thought it a shame if Rome was not part of it for his sake. The falling in love with it for me, was very unexpected.
I feel very indebted to our Fodorites, Statia, gracie04, and tcreath. When I did a text search for charming and quaint areas in the city center, I found a thread they all posted on. I had this vision and their description of the Via dei Coronari area of Piazza Navona was like a symphony to my ears. It was exactly what we wanted. So thank you precious Statia, gracie04, and tcreath. DH and I feel very grateful.
Staying in the city center as opposed to the outskirts provided me with an entirely different picture of Rome. While last time I liked Rome, very much in fact, this time I just <i>fell in love</i> with it.
During the first trip commuting every day to and from everything made Rome seem very big, quite unmanageable, very loud. And while I had an appreciation for all that Rome possesses, I felt overwhelmed. I was quite surprised to find how very walkable Rome really can be! How unbelievably quaint. I know for us, this was the magic.
I researched well what was important for us to see. If you remember for a while there I only craved restaurant planning and sitting in a piazza with my true love sipping on something delightful. And reading, lot and lots of reading, lol. Well my friends, there is nothing like emailing the Vatican and calling the Borghese to get you excited and kick you into another gear entirely. However I will say, if all you want to do is sit, sip, read and eat, there is strength in that and I applaud you.
Really the next significant thing I need to address is how much we love Schiphol. If you can, connect through Amsterdam.
So you know me, never a nod of the head on the plane, not a wink of the eye. DH is consistently asleep prior to our leaving the runway, but we love him and harbor no hostility. I think this time, let’s change it up a bit shall we, let’s depart at night. So we work all day, leave that night, all is on time, a blessing when you live in the frozen tundra of Minneapolis. Records lows of below zero without the wind chill are expected the day after departure, let’s face it kids, we really need to get out of Dodge, rapidly at that.
Arrive on time in Amsterdam. We have a bit (by a bit I mean the 4.5 hours when we booked have slowly changed into 6.5 hours) of a layover.
We walk, we eat, we remember all from our last visit to this wonderful airport. I am beginning to become, ummmm, slightly punchy; DH alert and oriented. Then paradise appears. A line up of lovely chaise loungers tucked away in a quiet little corner. DH and I look at each other and think, “Yes, sweet angels in heaven, yes!” There was no exchange of words for it was not required. All lined up like a pretty little chorus line were loungers for 6. I mean Lindsay Wagner could have been doing a Sleep Number commercial they were so pleasant. La Dolce Vita in all it’s glory.
At this point in time, I could still be convinced it was simply a mirage. Even the backdrop of glass behind our loungers had relaxing etchings of a tropical paradise. All that was missing is was the pool.
Delighted, I place my bottom down, and raise my feet. I think, this is nice. DH is out immediately. I myself, begin to feel relaxed and comfortable, none of my normal fidgeting and thrashing about. The moment occurred at that point in time that I may, dare I say it, be able to sleep????
Now, if I cannot sleep on a plane, nor a train, not a car or a boat, really who am I kidding that I am going to be able to sleep in a public place, and one as busy and loud as a airport, but I go with it. I retrieve my Sharper Image eye mask and think this is nice. I take it one step further and grab my travel soother sound machine (keeping the eye mask on of course as I dig in our carry-on.) I am able “in the dark” to turn it on, set it to “Rain - Volume 6” and don ear buds in their respective places.
I now am feeling quite sleepy, and when I feel myself slipping away, I wrap the leather strap of my “purchased for Italy trip” handbag and the strap of our carry on twice around my wrist and once around my index finger, of course to alert me if anyone plans to rob us. There is no wisdom in fatigue.
Later DH awakes and reaches into the carry-on, this brings me out of my peaceful slumber. So you see, my handy dandy alarm system worked, although I am quite certain any robbers would have just sliced right through our straps (I know, 40 years old, can you believe I did this, but I digress…)
Tickled pink was I to find I had slept for a glorious hour. A precious 60 full minutes and that my little travelers is what held me until Roma appeared. I was still feeling punchy and silly but well rested, so after I awake I begin to inform DH that I will wave over the pool service fellow and order us a round; I ask him to pass me the sunscreen; and declare that I might ask that kind lady to take a picture of us in our tropical paradise?
The deep infatuation with Schiphol continues.
Next installment: Our first bite and puffer jackets anyone?
Greetings beautiful Fodorites, DH and I arrived home safely last evening. I am going to try to type a little to you every day until I finish, it is my solemn vow. Restaurant reviews, my rambling observations and utmost admiration for our beloved Italy to follow.
Nine fabulous nights in spectacular Rome.
My third trip to Italy, DH’s second. I have been to Rome once before. The first thing I want to share with you is to stay in the city if you can; for us and all futures journeys, this is must. What a different experience, and how completely charming in comparison to my first trip. The difference was amazing. I really planned this trip to Rome because DH and I wanted to return to Italy and I thought it a shame if Rome was not part of it for his sake. The falling in love with it for me, was very unexpected.
I feel very indebted to our Fodorites, Statia, gracie04, and tcreath. When I did a text search for charming and quaint areas in the city center, I found a thread they all posted on. I had this vision and their description of the Via dei Coronari area of Piazza Navona was like a symphony to my ears. It was exactly what we wanted. So thank you precious Statia, gracie04, and tcreath. DH and I feel very grateful.
Staying in the city center as opposed to the outskirts provided me with an entirely different picture of Rome. While last time I liked Rome, very much in fact, this time I just <i>fell in love</i> with it.
During the first trip commuting every day to and from everything made Rome seem very big, quite unmanageable, very loud. And while I had an appreciation for all that Rome possesses, I felt overwhelmed. I was quite surprised to find how very walkable Rome really can be! How unbelievably quaint. I know for us, this was the magic.
I researched well what was important for us to see. If you remember for a while there I only craved restaurant planning and sitting in a piazza with my true love sipping on something delightful. And reading, lot and lots of reading, lol. Well my friends, there is nothing like emailing the Vatican and calling the Borghese to get you excited and kick you into another gear entirely. However I will say, if all you want to do is sit, sip, read and eat, there is strength in that and I applaud you.
Really the next significant thing I need to address is how much we love Schiphol. If you can, connect through Amsterdam.
So you know me, never a nod of the head on the plane, not a wink of the eye. DH is consistently asleep prior to our leaving the runway, but we love him and harbor no hostility. I think this time, let’s change it up a bit shall we, let’s depart at night. So we work all day, leave that night, all is on time, a blessing when you live in the frozen tundra of Minneapolis. Records lows of below zero without the wind chill are expected the day after departure, let’s face it kids, we really need to get out of Dodge, rapidly at that.
Arrive on time in Amsterdam. We have a bit (by a bit I mean the 4.5 hours when we booked have slowly changed into 6.5 hours) of a layover.
We walk, we eat, we remember all from our last visit to this wonderful airport. I am beginning to become, ummmm, slightly punchy; DH alert and oriented. Then paradise appears. A line up of lovely chaise loungers tucked away in a quiet little corner. DH and I look at each other and think, “Yes, sweet angels in heaven, yes!” There was no exchange of words for it was not required. All lined up like a pretty little chorus line were loungers for 6. I mean Lindsay Wagner could have been doing a Sleep Number commercial they were so pleasant. La Dolce Vita in all it’s glory.
At this point in time, I could still be convinced it was simply a mirage. Even the backdrop of glass behind our loungers had relaxing etchings of a tropical paradise. All that was missing is was the pool.
Delighted, I place my bottom down, and raise my feet. I think, this is nice. DH is out immediately. I myself, begin to feel relaxed and comfortable, none of my normal fidgeting and thrashing about. The moment occurred at that point in time that I may, dare I say it, be able to sleep????
Now, if I cannot sleep on a plane, nor a train, not a car or a boat, really who am I kidding that I am going to be able to sleep in a public place, and one as busy and loud as a airport, but I go with it. I retrieve my Sharper Image eye mask and think this is nice. I take it one step further and grab my travel soother sound machine (keeping the eye mask on of course as I dig in our carry-on.) I am able “in the dark” to turn it on, set it to “Rain - Volume 6” and don ear buds in their respective places.
I now am feeling quite sleepy, and when I feel myself slipping away, I wrap the leather strap of my “purchased for Italy trip” handbag and the strap of our carry on twice around my wrist and once around my index finger, of course to alert me if anyone plans to rob us. There is no wisdom in fatigue.
Later DH awakes and reaches into the carry-on, this brings me out of my peaceful slumber. So you see, my handy dandy alarm system worked, although I am quite certain any robbers would have just sliced right through our straps (I know, 40 years old, can you believe I did this, but I digress…)
Tickled pink was I to find I had slept for a glorious hour. A precious 60 full minutes and that my little travelers is what held me until Roma appeared. I was still feeling punchy and silly but well rested, so after I awake I begin to inform DH that I will wave over the pool service fellow and order us a round; I ask him to pass me the sunscreen; and declare that I might ask that kind lady to take a picture of us in our tropical paradise?
The deep infatuation with Schiphol continues.
Next installment: Our first bite and puffer jackets anyone?
Jan 28th, 2008, 05:13 AM
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Hello dear Tiff 
This is a bright spot in an otherwise dreary day here in Austin. I love your trip reports, and this one is off to a great start! Lounging in the airport oasis -- gotta love you, sweetie!
When we made our 4th trip to Rome last spring, it was the first time we stayed in the city center as well (we had an apartment in the Pantheon area). I agree with you that it made a tremendous difference!
So now, with an (im)patient mind, I await your next installment!
This is a bright spot in an otherwise dreary day here in Austin. I love your trip reports, and this one is off to a great start! Lounging in the airport oasis -- gotta love you, sweetie!
When we made our 4th trip to Rome last spring, it was the first time we stayed in the city center as well (we had an apartment in the Pantheon area). I agree with you that it made a tremendous difference!
So now, with an (im)patient mind, I await your next installment!
Jan 28th, 2008, 06:24 AM
#5
How lovely, another tiff report! I'm looking forward to hearing how Rome charmed you - I stayed in town (near the Termini) and found it too monumental for my taste, but it was very hot, too (in June).
Jan 28th, 2008, 06:56 AM
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Good morning dear Tiff!
No wonder when I woke up a few moments ago and opened the blinds I saw blue sky and sunshine for the first time in weeks! I just knew the morning was going to have a special surprise. And here you and the start of your Rome trip report are..special indeed!
Welcome home dear friend!
You know how I love Schipol Airport! I can just imagine you two in the lounge chairs sleeping with sweet dreams of Rome!
I can hardly wait for your next installment!
No wonder when I woke up a few moments ago and opened the blinds I saw blue sky and sunshine for the first time in weeks! I just knew the morning was going to have a special surprise. And here you and the start of your Rome trip report are..special indeed!
Welcome home dear friend!
You know how I love Schipol Airport! I can just imagine you two in the lounge chairs sleeping with sweet dreams of Rome!
I can hardly wait for your next installment!
Jan 28th, 2008, 11:56 AM
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Miss Sophie is home once more((&
)
We sure missed her! What a sweetheart she is all cuddled up against me right now.
LCBoniti ~ Many a post I have read of yours! You always have such great recommendations, thank you!
LoveItaly ~ You are such a dear! And I am thrilled for your sunshine and blue skies. DH and I saw in the news about the weather in CA, you were so in our thoughts. May the sunshine continue now, my friend. Has TRSW been around? I thought of him when I took pictures of three wonderful Italian puppies.
thursdaysd ~ I am sorry about your hot June experience. I absolutely wilt in hot weather and so I can relate. I know we would have not been able to walk as much were it scorching!
Hi ellenem ~ I remember you from my last enchanted Italy experience in Florence & Venice. If I recall correctly you were particularly hoping I was able to purchase my little dish.
Ok all, I will now begin putting together all our restaurant experiences, excited to share those with everyone. We ate well thanks to so many of you here!
Ciao for now...
)We sure missed her! What a sweetheart she is all cuddled up against me right now.
LCBoniti ~ Many a post I have read of yours! You always have such great recommendations, thank you!
LoveItaly ~ You are such a dear! And I am thrilled for your sunshine and blue skies. DH and I saw in the news about the weather in CA, you were so in our thoughts. May the sunshine continue now, my friend. Has TRSW been around? I thought of him when I took pictures of three wonderful Italian puppies.
thursdaysd ~ I am sorry about your hot June experience. I absolutely wilt in hot weather and so I can relate. I know we would have not been able to walk as much were it scorching!
Hi ellenem ~ I remember you from my last enchanted Italy experience in Florence & Venice. If I recall correctly you were particularly hoping I was able to purchase my little dish.
Ok all, I will now begin putting together all our restaurant experiences, excited to share those with everyone. We ate well thanks to so many of you here!
Ciao for now...
Jan 28th, 2008, 11:59 AM
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Hi Kristina, we were posting at the same time. I have some great restaurants recs, sites we cherished and general information. How <i>excited</i> I am for you, we would go back tomorrow, if we could.
Jan 29th, 2008, 04:20 AM
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How can I properly address the importance of our meal planning without sounding obsessive. Would it cause you concern to know that it is necessary to number our walking map strategically placing the restaurant selections across the city. Perhaps alarm you to be aware that this is the first thing I plan??? I know, it’s our issue, but we are comfortable with that.
Rather than giving you a day by day of our journey, I am going to break it down into sections. And what to begin with? <i>Why food, of course!</i>
<b>Osteria del Pegno</b>
Vicolo di Montevecchio, 8
06 688 07 025 www.osteriadelpegno.com
This restaurant was perfection from beginning to end. My many thanks to SeaUrchin and so many others that recommended this wonderful establishment. They were closed during the first part of our stay in Rome but opened again two days before our departure.
The first thing you note upon entering is the beauty and extreme warmth. A large round flat basket of beautiful orange clementines. Rows of wine bottles scattered here and there. White pleasant candle light on each table countered by the glow of a huge under lit round light fixture above. The enticing aroma of a meal that will follow. It is everything you picture in your imaginary Italian dinner; a very romantic atmosphere. The service was excellent.
DH’s onion soup, which was among their specials, was the best he has every had. His prawns in white wine sauce tender and delicious. My Tagliatelle alla Norma was fabulous, homemade pasta, aubergines, and tomatoes all wrapped together to greet me. The dessert was, you know sometimes you have a dessert that you will never forget, ahhh haaa, it was one of those desserts. We ordered one of the chocolate ones, though it was difficult to decide between the two offered. It was almost as if our waiter was reading our minds, for what did he do but bring us what we ordered and then a sampler of the other chocolate dolce and a delicious apple tart. All were so delectable I am having a hard time typing on this keyboard and not just closing my eyes remembering.
I am certain this will be the longest of my reviews, but share I must!
Ooooooh one more thing - <b>make a reservation</b>. We saw five couples turned away just during the time we were there and two more as we were leaving.
Make your res and enjoy the splendor!
<b>La Sagrestia</b>
Via del Seminario, 89
06 67 97 584
This is a wonderful cozy little place. Excellent service. Many local residents present. Lovely stained glass doors at one end that I can only imagine they must open during warmer months. Mussels soup my DH adored. The risotto was very good. The pizza margherita was absolutely the best we have ever had anywhere. To die for. Very good house wine. Located by the Pantheon. If you are facing the Pantheon, it is the little street to the left, exactly parallel with the line of the front of it. Not to miss, not to miss.
<b>Trattoria da Armando al Pantheon</b>
Salita de’ Crescenzi, 31
06 68 80 30 34
Wonderful! Every bite wonderful. The zuppa had every vegetable you could imagine and was our favorite of the minestrones. Service was fantastic. All local businessman on their lunch. While we were there they had the kitchen open and I could see them preparing everyone’s meals. DH and I have this thing we do sometimes… we each describe what the other cannot see, we describe our “views”. This one was so much fun for me to describe to DH so he could visualize it. We really liked this little spot. The daughter of the owner was our server and she was a sweetheart, her English was very good and hearing this adult daughter call her father Poppa with such love, was precious and made me miss my own so much. A very cute Asian couple, who spoke no Italian and no English were at the table next to us and we were very touched when this sweet server went and got a book to assist them all in ordering process. I loved it there. This family run restaurant exuded heart and warmth everywhere.
<b>Antica Taverna</b>
Via Monte Giordondo, 13
66880153
DH’s meal was pretty good. My meal was ok. This place was fine. Would we go back, probably not. Too many other <i>great</i> places. I think it was the average service that killed it for us in this place. Now if the meal had been off the charts, we can deal with poor to average service, but it wasn’t even close. Just so-so, but it could have been just an off day.
<b>Cantina del Vecchio</b>
Via dei Coronari, 30 06 6867427
www.cantinadelvecchio.it
This was our first bite. They were very kind to take us in as it was late (2300). They prepared a wonderful meal for us. The wine was good, the prosecco delish. At the end of the meal, DH forgot that in the beginning he said we could not get one of the desserts anymore due to the time to prepare it and accidently ordered it and yet, he still prepared it for us even though we told him it was so not necessary, very quickly actually. Very gracious. Many locals. Very good.
<b>Ristorante Tre Archi Loneta</b>
Via dei Coronari
I wish I had the exact address and I am sorry, I do not.
If you are walking from Piazza Navona, once you reach Via dei Coronari, it is the first restaurant you come to on your right. It was just steps away from where we were staying.
A very nice gentleman took care of us. Delicious and hearty lentil soup. We enjoyed it here and would go back again.
<b>Il Bacaro</b>
Via degli Spagnoli, 27 06 6872554
http://ilbacaro.com/
This little hidden gem greets you with gorgeous roping vines everywhere. Very quaint. The young lady that served us spoke very good English and was a lot of fun. Just darling. I enjoyed ravioli with pecorino cheese and in wonderful pumpkin sauce and truffle, very rich but quite good . DH’s every bite of his delicious pasta with capers and olives in pomodoro was exactly what he wanted. Our darling waitress brought us each a sample of each other’s meals on a separate plate, it was very cute. And ironic because DH and I always share and sometimes even exchange plates, discreetly of course, half way through our meals so the other gets to sample. No exchanging needed here, heeeeee. We did not want to leave.
<b>Lo Stregone</b>
Piazza dei Coronari, 1
06 68 93 652
This place is a total mystery to us. We actually found it by mistake. I had forgotten my map and restaurant list, and only slightly remembered the name and general location. So we continued to stroll anyway, while looking for what I now know as ‘Le Streghe’ and also happens to be just down the street from this restaurant.
It is a huge establishment and if I can decipher the Italian on their business card, I believe they mainly do banquets and conferences. There food was <i>fantastic</i>. We ate here twice. But really the whole atmosphere was bizarre. A TV in the main eating area at a front table with the rabbit ears sticking up and the Mr. eating and reading his paper and watching a game show. While the Mrs. served us in the most proper and polite manner, she was just precious. Their vegetable antipasto was so succulent it made me want to go into the kitchen and beg them to show me just what they did with these simple vegetables. The pomodoro was the best we had in the city. The best.
Each time we were there, it was almost empty. Total mystery!!!!!!!
<b>Le Streghe</b>
Vicolo del Curato 13
And the mystery continues... We when got back to our room, I retrieved our map and this was the place that we had been looking for when we ended down at Lo Stregone. Once we did have dinner here, the description was so different from what we read. No lone candlelight as SeaUrchin mentioned. Just a bright loud place, and the food was our only bad meal. DH did not even finish his, it was inedible. And there were <i>so</i>many good reviews from so many guests that had been here previously, it was beyond us. There was only one other couple there. The owners had on this ‘boom box’ near the front door with a local news station on, very, very loud. (like one of our am stations with news here in the States) and the woman just kept standing by it and shaking her head and moaning. A very dramatic, and not to laugh, but we kinda were laughing on the inside because it was so not what we read at all, so not even close, in fact (laughing now) picture the exact opposite. We just looked at each and thought “are we in the right place???” But we were and checked the address again upon leaving. DH’s carne had so much gristle that he had to stop eating it. All in all, just not a good experience.
<b>Ristorante Quirino</b>
Via Delle Muratte, 84
06 679 41 058
This place was a nice surprise. We were over by the Trevi, and suddenly famished and gave it a shot. We were not expecting much because of the touristy area, but it was nice. If you are in a pinch, we liked it here. And the wonderful young server chased us down the street afterward because we had forgot our camera. Very kind of him, he was sweet.
<b>Babington’s</b>
Piazza di Spagna, 23
I adore tea. This wonderful tea room has been there forever and should not be missed for anyone such as I. Read the paper, enjoy your Earl Grey, purchase a little gift on your way out. Delightful.
<b>Clothing, weather, outside seating warmed by heaters and the puffers</b>
Tall boots with jeans tucked in were still all the rage just like two years ago. Our weather was simply beautiful, mostly between 55 and 60 degrees F each day we were there. A couple were lower 50’s. In the late afternoon, when sitting in our little cafes, outdoor heaters warmed us so we were able to take off our jackets. Our private terrace off our room was utilized every day, even the two cloudy ones. The off season still remains our favorite.
Puffer jacket, here, puffer jacket there, puffer puffer everywhere. And there is a reason. These little numbers are darling and quite practical. I was warm in mine, but not too warm. The fur lined hood dressed it up a bit, I am so glad I brought it. I was not alone. Many Italian women had them as well as we travelers, long or the shorter style. Perfect to layer with. DH’s outwear jacket was perfect too. It was a thin breezer that he could layer accordingly underneath day to day.
I have stated this before but will again. It is not necessary to seek out what I would refer to in the States as high end fine while you are in Italy, in order to eat well. Due to our occupations it is necessary for us to wear business attire regularly here at home. One of the nicest things there is that so many of the good eateries we have experiences are more casual. Comfortable and casual is key. It also makes it so much easier for packing.
One thing to note, while usually in our travels we have always avoided any restaurants that have ‘someone trying to pull you in’. I was surprised to see that almost all of the truly wonderful places we dined did this time, even Osteria del Pegno, did this. I don’t know if it was because it was the off season, and they just have more time to ‘hang’ outside, but that is what it felt like. It did not feel cheesy at all. No bad vibes. So please if you are traveling in the off season and witness this, do not let it deter you in the least.
Next installment: Oh the places you will go!
And, our little Residenza Canali
Rather than giving you a day by day of our journey, I am going to break it down into sections. And what to begin with? <i>Why food, of course!</i>
<b>Osteria del Pegno</b>
Vicolo di Montevecchio, 8
06 688 07 025 www.osteriadelpegno.com
This restaurant was perfection from beginning to end. My many thanks to SeaUrchin and so many others that recommended this wonderful establishment. They were closed during the first part of our stay in Rome but opened again two days before our departure.
The first thing you note upon entering is the beauty and extreme warmth. A large round flat basket of beautiful orange clementines. Rows of wine bottles scattered here and there. White pleasant candle light on each table countered by the glow of a huge under lit round light fixture above. The enticing aroma of a meal that will follow. It is everything you picture in your imaginary Italian dinner; a very romantic atmosphere. The service was excellent.
DH’s onion soup, which was among their specials, was the best he has every had. His prawns in white wine sauce tender and delicious. My Tagliatelle alla Norma was fabulous, homemade pasta, aubergines, and tomatoes all wrapped together to greet me. The dessert was, you know sometimes you have a dessert that you will never forget, ahhh haaa, it was one of those desserts. We ordered one of the chocolate ones, though it was difficult to decide between the two offered. It was almost as if our waiter was reading our minds, for what did he do but bring us what we ordered and then a sampler of the other chocolate dolce and a delicious apple tart. All were so delectable I am having a hard time typing on this keyboard and not just closing my eyes remembering.
I am certain this will be the longest of my reviews, but share I must!
Ooooooh one more thing - <b>make a reservation</b>. We saw five couples turned away just during the time we were there and two more as we were leaving.
Make your res and enjoy the splendor!
<b>La Sagrestia</b>
Via del Seminario, 89
06 67 97 584
This is a wonderful cozy little place. Excellent service. Many local residents present. Lovely stained glass doors at one end that I can only imagine they must open during warmer months. Mussels soup my DH adored. The risotto was very good. The pizza margherita was absolutely the best we have ever had anywhere. To die for. Very good house wine. Located by the Pantheon. If you are facing the Pantheon, it is the little street to the left, exactly parallel with the line of the front of it. Not to miss, not to miss.
<b>Trattoria da Armando al Pantheon</b>
Salita de’ Crescenzi, 31
06 68 80 30 34
Wonderful! Every bite wonderful. The zuppa had every vegetable you could imagine and was our favorite of the minestrones. Service was fantastic. All local businessman on their lunch. While we were there they had the kitchen open and I could see them preparing everyone’s meals. DH and I have this thing we do sometimes… we each describe what the other cannot see, we describe our “views”. This one was so much fun for me to describe to DH so he could visualize it. We really liked this little spot. The daughter of the owner was our server and she was a sweetheart, her English was very good and hearing this adult daughter call her father Poppa with such love, was precious and made me miss my own so much. A very cute Asian couple, who spoke no Italian and no English were at the table next to us and we were very touched when this sweet server went and got a book to assist them all in ordering process. I loved it there. This family run restaurant exuded heart and warmth everywhere.
<b>Antica Taverna</b>
Via Monte Giordondo, 13
66880153
DH’s meal was pretty good. My meal was ok. This place was fine. Would we go back, probably not. Too many other <i>great</i> places. I think it was the average service that killed it for us in this place. Now if the meal had been off the charts, we can deal with poor to average service, but it wasn’t even close. Just so-so, but it could have been just an off day.
<b>Cantina del Vecchio</b>
Via dei Coronari, 30 06 6867427
www.cantinadelvecchio.it
This was our first bite. They were very kind to take us in as it was late (2300). They prepared a wonderful meal for us. The wine was good, the prosecco delish. At the end of the meal, DH forgot that in the beginning he said we could not get one of the desserts anymore due to the time to prepare it and accidently ordered it and yet, he still prepared it for us even though we told him it was so not necessary, very quickly actually. Very gracious. Many locals. Very good.
<b>Ristorante Tre Archi Loneta</b>
Via dei Coronari
I wish I had the exact address and I am sorry, I do not.
If you are walking from Piazza Navona, once you reach Via dei Coronari, it is the first restaurant you come to on your right. It was just steps away from where we were staying.
A very nice gentleman took care of us. Delicious and hearty lentil soup. We enjoyed it here and would go back again.
<b>Il Bacaro</b>
Via degli Spagnoli, 27 06 6872554
http://ilbacaro.com/
This little hidden gem greets you with gorgeous roping vines everywhere. Very quaint. The young lady that served us spoke very good English and was a lot of fun. Just darling. I enjoyed ravioli with pecorino cheese and in wonderful pumpkin sauce and truffle, very rich but quite good . DH’s every bite of his delicious pasta with capers and olives in pomodoro was exactly what he wanted. Our darling waitress brought us each a sample of each other’s meals on a separate plate, it was very cute. And ironic because DH and I always share and sometimes even exchange plates, discreetly of course, half way through our meals so the other gets to sample. No exchanging needed here, heeeeee. We did not want to leave.
<b>Lo Stregone</b>
Piazza dei Coronari, 1
06 68 93 652
This place is a total mystery to us. We actually found it by mistake. I had forgotten my map and restaurant list, and only slightly remembered the name and general location. So we continued to stroll anyway, while looking for what I now know as ‘Le Streghe’ and also happens to be just down the street from this restaurant.
It is a huge establishment and if I can decipher the Italian on their business card, I believe they mainly do banquets and conferences. There food was <i>fantastic</i>. We ate here twice. But really the whole atmosphere was bizarre. A TV in the main eating area at a front table with the rabbit ears sticking up and the Mr. eating and reading his paper and watching a game show. While the Mrs. served us in the most proper and polite manner, she was just precious. Their vegetable antipasto was so succulent it made me want to go into the kitchen and beg them to show me just what they did with these simple vegetables. The pomodoro was the best we had in the city. The best.
Each time we were there, it was almost empty. Total mystery!!!!!!!
<b>Le Streghe</b>
Vicolo del Curato 13
And the mystery continues... We when got back to our room, I retrieved our map and this was the place that we had been looking for when we ended down at Lo Stregone. Once we did have dinner here, the description was so different from what we read. No lone candlelight as SeaUrchin mentioned. Just a bright loud place, and the food was our only bad meal. DH did not even finish his, it was inedible. And there were <i>so</i>many good reviews from so many guests that had been here previously, it was beyond us. There was only one other couple there. The owners had on this ‘boom box’ near the front door with a local news station on, very, very loud. (like one of our am stations with news here in the States) and the woman just kept standing by it and shaking her head and moaning. A very dramatic, and not to laugh, but we kinda were laughing on the inside because it was so not what we read at all, so not even close, in fact (laughing now) picture the exact opposite. We just looked at each and thought “are we in the right place???” But we were and checked the address again upon leaving. DH’s carne had so much gristle that he had to stop eating it. All in all, just not a good experience.
<b>Ristorante Quirino</b>
Via Delle Muratte, 84
06 679 41 058
This place was a nice surprise. We were over by the Trevi, and suddenly famished and gave it a shot. We were not expecting much because of the touristy area, but it was nice. If you are in a pinch, we liked it here. And the wonderful young server chased us down the street afterward because we had forgot our camera. Very kind of him, he was sweet.
<b>Babington’s</b>
Piazza di Spagna, 23
I adore tea. This wonderful tea room has been there forever and should not be missed for anyone such as I. Read the paper, enjoy your Earl Grey, purchase a little gift on your way out. Delightful.
<b>Clothing, weather, outside seating warmed by heaters and the puffers</b>
Tall boots with jeans tucked in were still all the rage just like two years ago. Our weather was simply beautiful, mostly between 55 and 60 degrees F each day we were there. A couple were lower 50’s. In the late afternoon, when sitting in our little cafes, outdoor heaters warmed us so we were able to take off our jackets. Our private terrace off our room was utilized every day, even the two cloudy ones. The off season still remains our favorite.
Puffer jacket, here, puffer jacket there, puffer puffer everywhere. And there is a reason. These little numbers are darling and quite practical. I was warm in mine, but not too warm. The fur lined hood dressed it up a bit, I am so glad I brought it. I was not alone. Many Italian women had them as well as we travelers, long or the shorter style. Perfect to layer with. DH’s outwear jacket was perfect too. It was a thin breezer that he could layer accordingly underneath day to day.
I have stated this before but will again. It is not necessary to seek out what I would refer to in the States as high end fine while you are in Italy, in order to eat well. Due to our occupations it is necessary for us to wear business attire regularly here at home. One of the nicest things there is that so many of the good eateries we have experiences are more casual. Comfortable and casual is key. It also makes it so much easier for packing.
One thing to note, while usually in our travels we have always avoided any restaurants that have ‘someone trying to pull you in’. I was surprised to see that almost all of the truly wonderful places we dined did this time, even Osteria del Pegno, did this. I don’t know if it was because it was the off season, and they just have more time to ‘hang’ outside, but that is what it felt like. It did not feel cheesy at all. No bad vibes. So please if you are traveling in the off season and witness this, do not let it deter you in the least.
Next installment: Oh the places you will go!
And, our little Residenza Canali
Jan 29th, 2008, 06:43 AM
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Hey Statia, I am so glad you saw this, one never knows who will. We are very grateful to you. You were "with" us in the initial planning. Cheers to you!
Gomiki, sweet one! Heavens I miss you, how are you?
Gomiki, sweet one! Heavens I miss you, how are you?
Jan 29th, 2008, 07:44 AM
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Heee, gomiki, Amsterdam on Monday??? Was it our chaise lounge experience that sold you, or did you have this adventure already planned??? 
Have a wonderful journey, friend, and I will look forward to <i>your</i> report!
Thanks Sally, I promise more soon!
Have a wonderful journey, friend, and I will look forward to <i>your</i> report!
Thanks Sally, I promise more soon!
Jan 29th, 2008, 07:55 AM
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Hi Tiff!
What a lovely and delightful surprise to open Fodors and find your trip report on this cold morning in Denver. I have enjoyed every word and cannot wait for the rest! Thank you so much for sharing your trip so beautifully, as you always do
-Jill
What a lovely and delightful surprise to open Fodors and find your trip report on this cold morning in Denver. I have enjoyed every word and cannot wait for the rest! Thank you so much for sharing your trip so beautifully, as you always do
-Jill
Jan 29th, 2008, 08:06 AM
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Welcome home Tiff! I'm so happy that the Via dei Coronari area was everything you hoped it would be. Your descriptions are marvelous...I almost felt like I was back in Rome. At least until the phone on my desk rang and forced me to remember that I'm at work...
I can't wait to hear more!!
Tracy
I can't wait to hear more!!
Tracy
