111op

Hi, I don't really know anything about these places, beyond the Scrovegni Chapel in Padova, which I assume is the most important attraction.

I'm trying to decide how to visit these cities *very* briefly -- I'll be flying in and out of Bologna. And Padova is on the way to Venice.

I took a look at er... Frommer's (ok, I use all sources).

I see that the Bologna Pinacotheca is closed on Monday (confirmed by their website). I also see that Museo Civico Eremitani in Padova opens at 9.

So I can see from my schedule and from train schedules that I can visit one but not the other, depending on how I plan my itinerary.

Which attraction of these two, in your view, is more important? Or are these two both pretty minor compared to what's available in Florence and Venice?

Which are the top 2-3 attractions in both cities, in your opinion? I see a Sant'Antonio Basilica in Padova. I see a
San Petronio Basilica in Bologna. What would you <i>absolutely&lt;/a&gt; not miss in either city (apart from the Scrovegni Chapel)?

Thanks.
</i>

111op

Oops -- sorry about the html nonsense.

What would you <i>absolutely</i> not miss in either city (apart from the Scrovegni Chapel)?

ira

Hi OP,

How long will you be in Bologna?

ellenem

In Padova, I would choose the Sant' Antonio Basilica over the Museo Civico. I believe the museum is quite close to the chapel. I don't recall any standouts in the museum, but found the basilica a more interesting experience. St Anthony is very popular, so it was interesting to see so many pilgrims to his tomb and such veneration expressed. Also the reliqueries containing his various body parts are particularly. . . extensive. The route through town from the Scrovegni Chapel to the basilica would take you past a number of other noted sights, so you'd get a nice feel for the city.

111op

Very briefly.

Probably 2-3 hours.

Don't tell me that I can skip it -- I'm flying in and out of Bologna, so I may as well try to see some of it.

I'm not skipping Padova either.

And no, I've not gone crazy, so I've not thrown Verona or Vicenza into the itinerary (or Pisa or San Gimignano).

111op

Thanks, ellenem. I see that Frommer's mentions some early works by Titian and Tintoretto and Bellini at Museo Civico in Padova, but I assume that I'd have covered the best with Florence and Venice. It's good to hear that you found nothing striking.

How long is the walk from the Chapel to the Basilica?

Lexma90

I've been to Bologna but not Padova, so I can't compare the two. The highlights of Bologna, for me, were the food markets on via Clavature and via Pescherie; walking under the lovely porticos and people-watching in the piazze, and visiting Santo Stephano’s. I found that former monastery very interesting; it’s a collection of old and older churches, all interconnected with each other. My favorite was the octagonal San Sepolcro. We spent only a few minutes at Basilica San Petronius; and the Museo Civico Archeologico, while somewhat interesting, was a bit disorganized and mostly only in Italian.

ahdzp

I really enjoyed Padova, we spent one night there and for us it was one of the highlights of our trip.

you would see a lot of turists but they just go and see St. Antonio's basilic and then left... so by the afternoon you will be with locals, so it is great to go to the piazza (park?) by night and everybody is walking and having fun, kids, adults, all families... also there is a very nice restaurant by the piazza, I do not remember the name but is the biggest with frescoes and columns, the food was very good and the service is great.

Also visit the market.

Eloise

As far as I am concerned, the only MUST in Padova is the Scrovegni Chapel. The only thing of interest in the Museo Civico Eremitani (which is, I think, housed partly in a former church right next to the Scrovegni Chapel) are, if I recall correctly, some frescoes by Mantegna that were very badly damaged during World War II. So badly that I wouldn't -- with your schedule -- take the time to see them.

The Basilica of Saint Anthony is, to my mind, more interesting from a religious than an art-historical perspective. There are a few sculptures by Donatello, which one cannot get very close to, and then in the actual St. Anthony Chapel some reliefs by I remember not whom... I would give it a miss.

I don't remember the museum in Bologna at all, so I either didn't go to it or there was nothing in it that stayed in my mind. I don't recall anything of note in the cathedral of San Petronio either. I very much liked the Santo Stephano complex mentioned by another poster, but I have a personal thing for early Christian art and architecture.

111op

Sounds good. Of course, in the meantime I'm insane enough to think that I can do the following:

<b> Saturday </b>

Florence to Bologna. Stop and see art museum. Go to Padova. See Chapel. Go to Venice.

<b> Monday &lt;/a&gt;
Venice to Padova. Stop. See rest of attractions. Padova to Bologna. Another hour or two. Flight home.

But if the chapel is the most important, it'd be more efficient not to have to make two stops on each trip (the reason for something like the above would be if I <b>really</b> have to see the art musuem in Bologna, as it's not open on Monday). It'd be better if I stop in Padova on my way to Venice. Then simply take the train to Bologna from Venice (not stopping in Padova again) on Monday.

But I'm happy to hear and appreciate more suggestions.

I read about the Mantegna frescoes. It sounds like quite a tragedy.

By the way, Eloise, you can find my rough Florence itinerary here:

http://makeashorterlink.com/?I6942148B

I've put the Gozzoli frescoes on the list, but I don't know if I'll have time for it.</b>

111op

Oops.

Sorry, didn't mean to shout....

111op

My apologies again....

This should be better:

Sounds good. Of course, in the meantime I'm insane enough to think that I can do the following:

<b> Saturday </b>
Florence to Bologna. Stop and see art museum. Go to Padova. See Chapel. Go to Venice.

<b> Monday </b>
Venice to Padova. Stop. See rest of attractions. Padova to Bologna. Another hour or two. Flight home.

But if the chapel is the most important, it'd be more efficient not to have to make two stops on each trip (the reason for something like the above would be if I really have to see the art musuem in Bologna, as it's not open on Monday). It'd be better if I stop in Padova on my way to Venice. Then simply take the train to Bologna from Venice (not stopping in Padova again) on Monday.

But I'm happy to hear and appreciate more suggestions.

I read about the Mantegna frescoes. It sounds like quite a tragedy.

By the way, Eloise, you can find my rough Florence itinerary here:

http://makeashorterlink.com/?I6942148B

I've put the Gozzoli frescoes on the list, but I don't know if I'll have time for it.

Eloise

111op: It was very nice of you to do it, but you really should not have bothered to redo your last message.

I've left a comment on the blog page that you gave the link to, but half of it got swallowed...

What got swallowed was:

In my opinion, I don't think it's worth your while to do Padova twice.

111op

Well reformatting the post takes about 5 secs (with cutting and pasting). So it was no trouble, and it reads better.

Yes, I saw your other comment. I actually replied to your comment on my blog.

I deleted the reference to Fodor's (out of paranoia, really). I tend to call Fodor's &quot;the other website&quot; on the blog.

Thanks again for stopping by and taking a look.

KT

I don't really know how to decide whether a museum is a must-see without taking personal preference into account. I really liked the Pinacoteca in Bologna, but as its strengths aren't in the big names of the Renaissance (though it does have a pretty famous Raphael), it may not appeal to others. It has some beautiful Bolognese and Ferrarese paintings of the 14th through 16th centuries. Its other strong point is Bolognese school baroque--the Carracci family, Guido Reni, Guercino, etc. The paintings are well displayed.

I agree that Santo Stefano is a highlight of Bologna. San Petronio has some very cool frescoes of heaven and hell by Giovanni da Modena and other interesting things but, again, I don't know whether you'd consider it a don't-miss. And the Ugo Bassi food market and the food shops mentioned above, are pretty wonderful.

So, anyway, I'm afraid that I can't really rank the sights for a quick visit...but there are some opinions for you.

111op

Thanks, that's certainly very helpful, KT.

Frommer's says that one painting in the Pinacoteca might have had an influence on Whistler's portrait of his mother. It did pique my curiosity. Supposedly it also has a polyptych attributed to Giotto.

I know that all rankings are personal, but it's helpful to gather people's opinions and see if some sort of consenus emerges.

ellenem

You must reserve to visit the Scrovegni Chapel now, although I have heard recent reports that some people just showed up and got in. It might depend on the day of the week or the season. Once you decide on your plan, do look into the reservations, since you have definite time constraints.

The chapel is little more than 5 minutes from the train station. The basilica is on the other side of town from the chapel, perhaps a 20-minute walk.

Yes, the Mantegna frescoes are sad to see. . .

Personally, I wouldn't stop in Bologna AND Padova in the same day.

111op

Thanks ellenem. I definitely want to book the Scrovegni Chapel asap, but since I've not mapped out the entire itinerary, I haven't done so.

Fortunately it looks like only a morning slot on the day I want is booked so far. But I'll try to have a plan shortly.

ira

Hi OP,

Our outstanding memories of Bologna (aside from the town itself) are

From train station take Via delle Independenza (at east end of train station) south. At Via Augusto Righi go left 3 blks to Gelateria Moline, Via delle Moline 13, the churches at Piazza Santo Stefano, and lunch on the terrace of Da Cesarina, across the piazza from San Stefano.

111op

<i>Gelateria Moline</i>

Yum. Thanks, ira!

Lunch? I'll probably be sprinting somewhere.