Spellbound in Paris: an enthusiatic first-timer's report
Feb 14th, 2005, 03:58 AM
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Spellbound in Paris: an enthusiatic first-timer's report
It started at the corner of St. Germain and St. Michele, where girlfriend Becky and I emerged from the metro station. I was stunned. For about a minute I couldn't move or speak. I had been unsure how I would like Paris, but it struck me like a thunderbolt: Paris truly is magical, and I was under her spell.
Becky (btewalt) and I returned last night from our whirlwind 3.5 day getaway trip and I can't wait to tell you all the details! It will take me some time to settle back in at home, so I'll add on here in chunks when I can.
Merci and au revoir!
Becky (btewalt) and I returned last night from our whirlwind 3.5 day getaway trip and I can't wait to tell you all the details! It will take me some time to settle back in at home, so I'll add on here in chunks when I can.
Merci and au revoir!
Feb 14th, 2005, 08:16 AM
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Hotel:
We stayed at the Hotel Abbatial in the 5th, at the intersection of of St. Germain and Rue des Bernadins. The location was perfect for us. It is about a 5 minute walk to Notre Dame and a couple of blocks from the Seine. This was nice because if one of us needed to sleep in a little longer, the other could stroll along the river or sit and gaze at Notre Dame. There is a cafe right next door that makes fantastic omletes. There's also a grade school around the corner, so during breakfast we got to watch the Mommies and Daddies walking their kids to school. There are lots of interesting shops in that area, and a morning market a couple of blocks west on St. Germain.
Overall, we were pleased with the hotel. We had originally asked for an interior room as to avoid the street noise, but we didn't realize that meant a 1st floor room, directly above the trash cans! The room was very small and rather drab. We asked if there was another room we could move to, even if it was on the street, and they upgraded us to a 5th floor superior room with a view of the Pantheon and Notre Dame. Sure, there was some street noise, but it was worth it to have the cheerier room, extra space, and the view. We were not charged for the upgraded room, so we ended up with a 180E room for 95E! We did have to move back down to the original room for the last night, which was not a big deal. Everyone at the front desk at the Abbatial was friendly and helpful. We did not try their breakfast as there was much better people watching at the cafe. Just after a couple of days, the owner there remembered us and knew what we wanted.
We stayed at the Hotel Abbatial in the 5th, at the intersection of of St. Germain and Rue des Bernadins. The location was perfect for us. It is about a 5 minute walk to Notre Dame and a couple of blocks from the Seine. This was nice because if one of us needed to sleep in a little longer, the other could stroll along the river or sit and gaze at Notre Dame. There is a cafe right next door that makes fantastic omletes. There's also a grade school around the corner, so during breakfast we got to watch the Mommies and Daddies walking their kids to school. There are lots of interesting shops in that area, and a morning market a couple of blocks west on St. Germain.
Overall, we were pleased with the hotel. We had originally asked for an interior room as to avoid the street noise, but we didn't realize that meant a 1st floor room, directly above the trash cans! The room was very small and rather drab. We asked if there was another room we could move to, even if it was on the street, and they upgraded us to a 5th floor superior room with a view of the Pantheon and Notre Dame. Sure, there was some street noise, but it was worth it to have the cheerier room, extra space, and the view. We were not charged for the upgraded room, so we ended up with a 180E room for 95E! We did have to move back down to the original room for the last night, which was not a big deal. Everyone at the front desk at the Abbatial was friendly and helpful. We did not try their breakfast as there was much better people watching at the cafe. Just after a couple of days, the owner there remembered us and knew what we wanted.
Feb 14th, 2005, 08:22 AM
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Jocelyn,
Paris never ceases to charm. We are in our 60's and go back for three or four nights each year and feel in on our 20's while there!
Visiting the D'Orsay, having an ice cream or a cognac at the Berthillon near the Ile St.Louis watching the scene go by, listening to Vivaldi played at the Ste. Chapelle, walking through the Place des Vosges or the Parc Monceau and so many other delightful and romantic things make Paris the great city that it is.
Hope you can return soon.
Anthony
Paris never ceases to charm. We are in our 60's and go back for three or four nights each year and feel in on our 20's while there!
Visiting the D'Orsay, having an ice cream or a cognac at the Berthillon near the Ile St.Louis watching the scene go by, listening to Vivaldi played at the Ste. Chapelle, walking through the Place des Vosges or the Parc Monceau and so many other delightful and romantic things make Paris the great city that it is.
Hope you can return soon.
Anthony
Feb 14th, 2005, 08:36 AM
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French people:
We felt very welcomed by the Parisians. We never encountered any blatant rudeness, although once or twice someone shook their head at us (we're not sure why--perhaps we made a cultural faux pas that we weren't aware of). For the most part, everyone was welcoming, polite, and made an effort to help us. On several occasions we'd have our map out and someone would stop and help us navigate. I found it interesting that it was usually men offering their assistance. Not that the women were rude by any stretch, but the men were so gentlemanly! I witnessed more men offering up their seats on the metro and opening doors than I notice in the U.S.
Language issues:
About 90% of the Parisians we encountered spoke some English. Even if they didn't, they were willing to try to communicate and we'd usually all end up laughing. I took some high school French and Becky took three semesters in college so we weren't completely lost with the language, but it was amazing what a polite "Bonjour" and "Parlez-vous anglais?" would do. Since I've traveled to Italy a couple of times recently, I kept inadvertantly mixing my French with Italian. The response was usually some good-natured teasing.
We felt very welcomed by the Parisians. We never encountered any blatant rudeness, although once or twice someone shook their head at us (we're not sure why--perhaps we made a cultural faux pas that we weren't aware of). For the most part, everyone was welcoming, polite, and made an effort to help us. On several occasions we'd have our map out and someone would stop and help us navigate. I found it interesting that it was usually men offering their assistance. Not that the women were rude by any stretch, but the men were so gentlemanly! I witnessed more men offering up their seats on the metro and opening doors than I notice in the U.S.
Language issues:
About 90% of the Parisians we encountered spoke some English. Even if they didn't, they were willing to try to communicate and we'd usually all end up laughing. I took some high school French and Becky took three semesters in college so we weren't completely lost with the language, but it was amazing what a polite "Bonjour" and "Parlez-vous anglais?" would do. Since I've traveled to Italy a couple of times recently, I kept inadvertantly mixing my French with Italian. The response was usually some good-natured teasing.
Feb 14th, 2005, 09:48 AM
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Food:
Many of our meals were omletes, pastries, and crepes. We started off each day with an omlete, then went until our stomachs needed something. We really appreciated that you could get a decent meal at a cafe or creperie any time of the day. We had a noteworthy meal at a cafe in the Marais at the corner of Rue des Archives and Rue des Blancs Manteaux. I didn't write down the name, but we really enjoyed the food there.
We did have one splurge (for us) meal at a place recommended by our hotel, less than two blocks away. It's called Maree Verte and it was fantastic! I had a starter of artichokes, mushrooms, and smoked duck in olive oil and herbs that was to die for. The main course was sea bass over fennel and a cream sauce. Dessert was a chocolate custard with pistachios. We discovered it's hard to go wrong with desserts in Paris! This price fix menu was 32E, and according to the hotel front desk, one of the best values in the city.
One of the highlights of the trip was a lengthy stop at Laduree. We spent HOURS there, lol! We each got a box of macaroons, and I also ended up with some teas and cocoa to take home. We sat in the dining area to try the famed hot chocolate. I about cried it was so good. I had tried hot chocolate at a few cafes and tea houses before that, but nothing compared to Laduree. Next trip I'll have to try Angelina's.
Becky and I got a chuckle at the number of "Tex Mex" restaurants. Also, in the grocery stores, we often saw the American version of canned mexican food, instead of the real stuff from Mexico.
Many of our meals were omletes, pastries, and crepes. We started off each day with an omlete, then went until our stomachs needed something. We really appreciated that you could get a decent meal at a cafe or creperie any time of the day. We had a noteworthy meal at a cafe in the Marais at the corner of Rue des Archives and Rue des Blancs Manteaux. I didn't write down the name, but we really enjoyed the food there.
We did have one splurge (for us) meal at a place recommended by our hotel, less than two blocks away. It's called Maree Verte and it was fantastic! I had a starter of artichokes, mushrooms, and smoked duck in olive oil and herbs that was to die for. The main course was sea bass over fennel and a cream sauce. Dessert was a chocolate custard with pistachios. We discovered it's hard to go wrong with desserts in Paris! This price fix menu was 32E, and according to the hotel front desk, one of the best values in the city.
One of the highlights of the trip was a lengthy stop at Laduree. We spent HOURS there, lol! We each got a box of macaroons, and I also ended up with some teas and cocoa to take home. We sat in the dining area to try the famed hot chocolate. I about cried it was so good. I had tried hot chocolate at a few cafes and tea houses before that, but nothing compared to Laduree. Next trip I'll have to try Angelina's.
Becky and I got a chuckle at the number of "Tex Mex" restaurants. Also, in the grocery stores, we often saw the American version of canned mexican food, instead of the real stuff from Mexico.
Feb 14th, 2005, 10:12 AM
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As others have said, I am still spellbound by Paris EVERYTIME!!
I try to make myself go other places and I do, but 90% of the time it is back to Paris for at least a few days.
Thank you for your report. I enjoyed it very much.
I try to make myself go other places and I do, but 90% of the time it is back to Paris for at least a few days.
Thank you for your report. I enjoyed it very much.
Feb 14th, 2005, 11:07 AM
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Jocelyn - I love your enthusiasm about Paris. There are so many places in the world left for me to see yet it's Paris that is on my mind constantly. I've been there twice and I'm contemplating a 3rd visit, even though I know I want to visit Italy.
Glad you had such a wonderful time.
Glad you had such a wonderful time.
Feb 14th, 2005, 11:13 AM
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Welcome to the world of the spellbound. Your trip sounds lovely. We are currently planning a trip to Italy and, much as I love Italy, I can't resist reading all the Paris messages on Fodor's. And the more I read, the more I wish we were stopping in Paris on our way to Italy. Next year.
Feb 14th, 2005, 11:22 AM
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mamc, you just described how I am feeling. I never had any interest in Paris until I came onto Fodors. Now I am wondering if Paris is perhaps not more, or at least, as wonderful as Italy.
But I won't say that to my friends in Italy LOL. But seriously, the Fodorites that post about their trips to Paris make it so inviting.
And Jocelyn, your report is wonderful!
But I won't say that to my friends in Italy LOL. But seriously, the Fodorites that post about their trips to Paris make it so inviting.
And Jocelyn, your report is wonderful!
Feb 14th, 2005, 11:38 AM
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Its a terrible disease, this Parisitus Desirenatus...cures are expensive, and require visits to far away locations, for injections of kirs and cafe cremes, followed by long invigorating walks and many sedentary pauses...unfortunately no drug plans cover this, so one must combat this disease without government support...yes, I am a sick person too...things get crazy when I start talking in languages
