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San Francisco Trip Report: Cable Cars and Naked Ladies!

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San Francisco Trip Report: Cable Cars and Naked Ladies!

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Old Aug 3rd, 2004, 06:26 PM
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San Francisco Trip Report: Cable Cars and Naked Ladies!

I thought that would get your attention.

We had a great, trouble-free trip that exceeded all our expectations. We were very impressed with all the wonderful sights and friendly people. Definitely plan to go back some day.

A big thank-you to all the kind and wise board members who helped us plan the trip. I will post this report in sections.

TUESDAY, 27 JUL: Flew American Airlines to San Francisco (via Dallas) and arrived at 1330. It was sunny and cool with light winds - a great escape from the heat and humidity of Florida.

ARRIVAL AND CHECK-IN: Transfer to the Hyatt went smoothly. Grabbed our bags, paused briefly to buy 7-day MUNI transportation pass ($20) at the counter near baggage area, and then went upstairs to catch a tram to the BART station at the airport.

Bought tickets for $4.95 each, then rode to Embarcadero Station right across the street from the hotel. Checked into a nice-sized room on the 16th floor with a dramatic view of the Bay Bridge. Dropped our bags in the room and were outside by 1515.

NOB HILL: The California Cable Car line is just outside the hotel, so it was easy to hop on a car and ride to the top of Nob Hill. History buffs and hotel hounds will love this area.

We took a quick look at Grace Cathedral, the Mark Hopkins Hotel, the Masonic Temple, and Huntington Park, and then walked a couple of blocks down the hill to the Cable Car Museum. Interesting 20 minute stop here to learn about the history of the system and actually see how the cables work.

TONGA ROOM: The temperature dropped quickly as the fog started to roll in, so we hoofed it back up the steep hill to nose around the historic Fairmont Hotel. Went to Happy Hour at the Tonga Room and enjoyed the Hawaiian music, friendly service and excellent Asian finger foods. we knew it was coming, but were still surprised by the loud and very sudden "tropical downpour." The buffet was $7 each with a one drink minimum.

FISHERMAN'S WHARF: We walked down hill to California and Grant Street and caught another cable car to the Aquatic Park area. Boy, those hills are steep and it was great fun to hang on the outside of the car with the wind in your face and the fog shrouded bay laid out below. Felt a sudden pulse of excitement, and tried hard not to look like "backwoods tourists", as we first set eyes on the Golden Gate Bridge.

We had to shake our heads in amazement at a whole bunch of people swimming in that cold water! Walked on the beach awhile and then sat on a bench and watched the sunset. Then we bought chocolate at Ghirardelli Square and listened to some street entertainers.

TIP: If you keep going in and out of the store, the clerks at the entrance will keep offering you tasty samples. I only did it four times times!

It got darker and foggier, so we took a peek at the shops in the Cannery Building and strolled along the piers. Hey, there really are sea lions out there!

As we were still on Florida time and it was down right chilly by now, we decided to escape the thick crowds and call it a day. Took the F-line trolley back to the hotel - quick and easy.

Had coffee and watched the city lights and harbor boat traffic before bed. All in all, it had been a good start to our first trip to San Francisco.

I swear I faintly heard ships blowing fog horns that night, but it may have all been a very nice dream.

More to follow
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Old Aug 3rd, 2004, 06:45 PM
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funny, I was asking about you today, where were you. My first trip to SF, I was walking down a street when I guy raced up to me asking if I wanted to share a joint. My friend and I went to a dance place called, "Dance your Ass off." Never have I laughed so much as in SF.
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Old Aug 3rd, 2004, 07:16 PM
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cigalechanta, our first day wasn't nearly as exciting as yours. And do you realize how long we would have to dance to accomplish that dance feat - months, maybe years?

Okay, here is day two:

WEDNESDAY, 28 JUL: Out of the hotel at 0800. Weather was cool and sunny with a light breeze. Glad we had light jackets. Starbucks, Walgreen?s and a 7-11 were right across the street from the hotel. In fact, there seemed to be a Starbucks on every other corner in the Financial District.

CHINATOWN: Caught a cable car here, but arrived too early as most of the stores were not open. All we could check out was St. Mary?s Cathedral and a produce market.

NORTH BEACH: Executed Plan B by strolling over to North Beach after a quick detour to Jackson Square and a quick pass by the Transamerica Building.

We had some outstanding cappuccinos at a little Italian café and eavesdropped on some locals making plans for the day. Did a North Beach area walk and enjoyed a quick stop at the North Beach Museum (free).

Then headed over to Washington Square and grabbed a bench to do some people watching. This is a little oasis in a bustling neighborhood. My ?little wife? was drawn to a group of Chinese women doing graceful tia chi exercises. They motioned her to join and provided basic instruction. She actually got the hang of it after twenty minutes or so - interesting interaction with some very nice people.

BAKERY INCIDENT. We looked around the area and then walked to the Danilo Bakery. I was prepared to buy a bag of the great looking and smelling goodies, but my ?little wife? insisted on just a single cookie since it was close to lunch. The old Italian lady behind the counter just laughed and said we weren?t the first tourists to walk all the way up the steep hill for a tiny ?sample? and nobody could explain the actions of women! No truer words were ever spoken. I was really expecting her to be aggravated, but she was good natured about our small purchase. Not three blocks later, ?the little wife? ate the cookie, moaned with delight, but was too embarrassed to go back for more. I resisted the urge to say I told you so.

TELEGRAPH HILL: The day being young, and our legs still fresh, we decided to walk up Telegraph Hill. We met a French couple along the way and playfully ?debated? the best route. They went right and we went left, but we all arrived at the base of the Coit Tower at the essentially the same time. Being polite, we slowed a bit on the last flight of stairs and allowed them to enter first. They had a grin a mile wide and joked that it was ?good to beat you Americans for once?.

Interesting murals inside and grand view of the harbor and city all around the tower. Again, we found a couple of elderly Chinese people doing tia chi exercises in the gardens.

We took a winding series of steep steps down the hill through terraced private gardens and emerged at the Levi Plaza.

TIP: Walk down and not up this side of the hill.

We grabbed some food and drinks at a local deli and sat under some trees near the fountains.

FERRY BUILDING: Hopped on a trolley and rode down to the beautifully restored Ferry building. Did some browsing in the small shops and food court. Bought some plums and grapes and sampled a variety of flavored olive oil and French bread. Walked along the waterfront enjoying the sun and cool temperatures. Where is all the fog and cloudy skies I?d heard about?

CHINA TOWN RE-VISITED: Rode a cable car up California Street to Chinatown. Bought some packaged tea and spent and hour or so wandering the narrow, crowded streets. However, after having lived in Asia off and on for many years, this was a bit of a let down. Guess our expectations were too high. Nice enough, but nothing to get excited about here.

UNION SQUARE: Hopped on and off two cable car lines before ending up here. Glad we had the transportation passes as its $3 a ride without it. Sat in the sun and listened to a band play as we rested our tired legs. Felt just like late fall in Florida.

Did a Union Square walk and looked at some theaters and hotels before popping in and out of a few stores. Not too impressed. Guess you have to see this area once, but it?s not a place I?d spend much time at again.

SIR FRANCIS DRAKE HOTEL: Made a quick stop to ride the glass elevators to the 32 floor for a great city view.

Punched a dozen or so floors to prolong the experience. A woman got inside and was pissed at all the stops and said disgustedly? I guess some kid punched all the damn buttons!? I fessed up and said with mock contrition: ?this big kid here done the silly deed?. Her husband just laughed and said not to worry as he had done the same thing the night before! I think she wanted to slap the both of us.

Tradich Grill: Took the F-line trolley back to the hotel to clean up and then got here about 1800. Place was already full. Had a beer at the bar until a table at the window opened up. We had lamb and seafood dishes and both were very good. Service was excellent and the prices were not expensive. Had an ?Old San Francisco feel to the place, but was a bit noisy. Still, we enjoyed it.

Took a final cable car ride up to Nob Hill at sunset. Car was empty and the Operator gave us a demonstration on how to drive the car and apply the brakes and let us give it a try. It really takes some muscle to bring one of those babies to a halt.

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Old Aug 3rd, 2004, 07:40 PM
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LOL!!!!
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Old Aug 3rd, 2004, 07:53 PM
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Hey you silly kid! Glad to hear that your trip was a success! And you must be feeling quite well and strong to be hiking up and down those hills!
Welcome back and let's hear more!
Scarlett
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Old Aug 3rd, 2004, 08:36 PM
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Hey, Miss Scarlett. Good to hear from you again. It was a great trip and we are all feel fine except for some aching feet.

THURSDAY, 29 JUL. Awoke to dark skies and chilly temps. Thought it was drizzling when outside, but it was actually the fog. Still, I'll take this over heat and humidity!

GOLDEN GATE PARK. Took a bus on Market Street that went to the north side of the park and passed by Alamo Square on the way. Just like you see on the post cards. Went to the Conservatory of Flowers, Stow Lake, the Asian Teahouse (had tea and took pictures of the ponds) and strolled though the Botanical Gardens.

The place is huge and you can walk it, but a car would be nice. Really enjoyed seeing all the plants we don't have in the South.

GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE: Exited the GGP on the south side. A couple of cute little elderly Chinese ladies chatted with us at the bus stop. They kept saying it was too cold and windy all the time, but they still loved SF! They even rode down Lincoln Street and pushed us out at the stop for the 28 bus that ran through the Presidio to the view area at the GGB.

What a grand sight that is when you are up close. The weather had cleared up, but it was still chilly and windy as all get out. Not wanting to wimp out, we walked ALL the way across to the other side. I was surprised at all the foot and bike traffic, how high up you are on the bridge and how low the railing. The LW got dizzy looking over the side. Estimate it is at least 1.5 miles across the bridge.

We stretched out like lazy fat cats in the sun and took a short nap on the warm stones of the naval monument on the Marin side. LW's calves were burning, but I acted like my feet were just fine even if my left heel was killing me. A stone bruise maybe?

LW tried to sweet talk a tour bus driver in to giving us a ride back to the other side, but I hustled her away almost kicking and screaming. Finish what you start. Return trip was much harder as we were walking into a howling wind. Sure glad we had jackets!

PALACE OF FINE ARTS: hopped on the 28 bus and got off here for a quick walk around the pond and through the stone structures. Felt a little like we were in Rome. Pretty area.

MARINA AREA: Really liked it here. Flat with great harbor and bridge views. Walked north and took a right on the waterfront, passing by the boat harbor and heading towards Fort Mason. Was impressed by the restored houses with pretty plantings out front. People biking, jogging and walking dogs. Stopped to talk to some fishermen and sat on a bench to watch sailboats tracking back and forth in front of Alcatraz Island. Fog returned and swirled through the GGB until it was almost completely covered. WOW!

CHESTNUT STREET. Walked south from the Marina area on to this street with many little cafes and shops. Not being able to walk another step, we quickly found a small oriental restaurant and chowed down on some great stir-fried chicken over rice, dim sum dishes and noodle soup. A pint or two of Pale Ale sure hit the spot.

Took a bus back to the hotel and crashed after many, many miles of walking. A soak in the tub sure felt good. What an absolutely fine day!

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Old Aug 3rd, 2004, 08:44 PM
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I was just thinking about you today, degas, and wondering how you were doing since we hadn't heard from you in a while. Now I find that you were right here in our very backyard! Glad you had an enjoyable trip. Next time you'll have to see more of the area outside SF as well -- like beautiful Marin County!
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Old Aug 3rd, 2004, 08:54 PM
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Hey Marilyn. After SF, we headed south to Monterey and Big Sur, but we'll be back for sure.
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Old Aug 3rd, 2004, 08:56 PM
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Thanks for the delightful read and the trip down memory lane, degas. Yes, who are all those people swimming in the cold water anyway?
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Old Aug 3rd, 2004, 09:08 PM
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It's the Polar Bear Club! Here in SF, it's cold enough to meet in July.
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Old Aug 3rd, 2004, 09:45 PM
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FRIDAY, 30 JUL. Awoke to chilly temps and some fog. Hustled out of the hotel at 0730 to wait in line at the Blue and White ferry for tickets to Alcataz Island.

Morning departures had been sold out for several days. Lots of Brits in line with us and we talked about London to pass the time.

LOMBARD STREET. With tickets in hand (1245 departure) we walked over to the cable car line and rode up. We walked down the street and paused to talk with one of the residents. Thought he would be sick of tourists passing by, but he was a nice fella who explained the pros and cons of living on this famous street. Got the mandatory pictures and hopped a bus to Pacific Heights.

PACIFIC HEIGHTS. Did a partial area walk to see the old mansions, but gave up as it was just too darn hilly.

Distances mean nothing with those type of elevated grades! Do this in a car or early on your trip. Actually, you are exposed to plenty of fine homes as you travel around the city, so a special home tour may be overkill for many people.

ASIAN ART MUSEUM. Plan B was to walk around the Civic Center area and go to the Asian Art Museum. Loved this place and felt rushed as we had to leave early to get back to the pier. The Geisha exhibit was very well done. Building is also beautiful inside.

ALCATRAZ TOUR. A little tense as we opted for a bus back to the pier and traffic was heavy. Had to jog the last block or so to make the ferry departure. LW was giving me the I told you so's big time!

Had to stifle a laugh when a woman ahead of us was holding a doughnut and a huge seagull swooped down and snatched it away from her. She also got sh..t on to boot. For once it wasn't me!

Spent about three hours on the island poking around the interior and exterior of the buildings and catching a ranger talk about escapes. Great audio tour. Man, is it ever cold and windy out there.

This was a sleeper as far as we were concerned and it turned out to be a fine activity. Harbor views are fascinating from here. We decided not to do a cruise after visiting. TIP: Get something to eat or drink BEFORE you get on the boat as prices are high and the trip out to the island is very short.

SEA LIONS: Got off the ferry and walked over to see what all the fuss was about with these noisy creatures. Dozens and dozens of them were piled on top of each other on the rafts close to the pier. Little did we know then that we were to have an up close and personal encounter with one of these guys later on our trip!

BUENA VISTA CAFE: Had to stop by for an Irish coffee ($6) and do some people watching. Not sure I'd do it again. Loud and service was a little pushy. Maybe we hit them on a bad day?

Did a final cable car ride, ate at steak house near the hotel and did some last minute shopping.

Need to be up early to check out and head down south for some hiking. Please let there be no fog in the morning - it's a long drive on that narrow, twisting coastal road!




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Old Aug 3rd, 2004, 11:12 PM
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SATURDAY, 31 JUL 04. Awoke to see fog - not a good sign.

At the rental car counter at 0730 and away ten minutes later to Monterey and Big Sur. The doorman said the fog was supposed to lift so we took 280 to the nautica exit to US 1. Soon ran smack into the thickest fog I had ever seen. Lots of silent cursing going on here. But just as quickly, it lifted and we relaxed a bit.

Took a few tight turns and then hit the brakes hard as we came up suddenly on a bad accident on a blind curve. A Honda had rolled over and the roof had collapsed on two people who were being extracted by firemen. Car behind me was all over the road and stopped about an inch from my rear bumper!

We did a quick off road move and saw the road being closed down in our rear view mirror. Man, what a difference a few seconds make!

Made good time, stopped for coffee once and cruised right on through Monterey and Carmel around 1100. Sun came out in force and it got warmer. Was happily stunned to see such awesome rocky coastline. Seemed like we stopped at every turn out and vista point. Wild flowers were everywhere - even the pink naked lady flowers!

JULIA PFEIFFER BURNS STATE PARK. Did the Outlook/Waterfall walk (only California waterfall that plunges directly into the sea) and also strolled along the stream (behind the parking lot) through a pretty redwoods grove. Gate was not manned and there was no admission charge.

TIP: watch out for poison oak - its all over. LW got a touch on her finger, but washed it off in time.

PFEIFFER-BIG SUR PARK: Paid $8 to get in and did the Pfeiffer Falls hike and part of the Valley View hike. Took about 1.5 hours. Tall redwoods were impressive to us low country southerners.

POINT LOBOS STATE RESERVE. What a great place. Weather still sunny and not too chilly.

Used the Big Sur entrance ticket to get in free. Arrived at 1600 and did the Seal Point, Cypress Grove (our favorite) and Bird Island walks.

LW found a sea lion on the beach which had been shot. We told the ranger and within an hour a rescue team was on scene to lift the two hundred pound animal to a recovery center. Man, do these folks act fast.

Bird Island and China Beach were also awesome. We could have spent a full day here, but had to be out by 1900. I think we left at 1859. This is a must see place in my book. Take lots of film. Rangers lend you binoculars in exchange for your car keys.

A long day with plenty of walking and tons of beautiful scenery. Perhaps the highlight of the entire trip! We'll be back again.

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Old Aug 4th, 2004, 04:36 AM
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degas - sounds like a great trip! I am going in September for a conference, so I only have a few days to tour around, but I can't wait!

Karen
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Old Aug 4th, 2004, 06:20 AM
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degas,
What a wonderful voice your trip report has - it was an absolute pleasure to read.
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Old Aug 4th, 2004, 06:49 AM
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Degas, Very impressive! This should be printed out by anyone who is heading to SF and the Monterey Bay! Amazing timing in avoiding the terrible accident.

I agree that the Buena Vista is not worth it. Point Lobos is an all day must see. I can't believe how much you accomplished in a short amount of time. And how much walking you've done. If Mimi danced her ass off, your little wife surely must be a few sizes smaller after this trip! Me thinks you josh about her heft. (and your's too)
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Old Aug 4th, 2004, 07:04 AM
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Ahhh The Marina, my old neighborhood~
Thank you again for bringing back lovely memories.
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Old Aug 4th, 2004, 07:05 AM
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Bravo, degas! Wonderful wonderful read!
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Old Aug 4th, 2004, 07:06 AM
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Wonderful trip report!

But where do the Naked Ladies come in? The closest thing so far is "history buffs."

Glad you had such a great time!
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Old Aug 4th, 2004, 07:16 AM
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Thanks everyone for all the positive feedback.

Timing and transportation are the keys to getting a lot done in a short period of time. I lurked on the forum for several weeks picking up great info which allowed me to put this trip together so well.

Regarding the "naked ladies", I was referring to the common name for all the pink Amaryllis Belladonnaas growing wild on the hillsides.

They come from a bulb with bold, straplike leaves in clumps 2-3 feet across in fall and winter. They are dormant in late spring and early summer. Flowers appear in August or September before the leaves grow; clusters of trumpet-shaped pink flowers grow atop tall stalks.

I've tried to grow them in the South, but its often too wet and hot during the summer for them to do well.
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Old Aug 4th, 2004, 07:36 AM
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Degas,

What a great trip report! Thanks for sharing.

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