noodaw

Hi there. I am from London and looking to travel to Hawaii with my mother in October next year as we have both always wanted to go there and are fascinated by the culture. However, I am wondering if anyone has some advice about where is best to go and what is best to do to experience the real Hawaii, as I know a lot of the tourism there is based around luxury resorts for rich Americans. Is it possible to travel properly without simply having a 'honeymoon' type luxury experience?

Anyone who has travelled/lived extensively there if they have any advice I would very much appreciate it!! Also, is it still hot and lovely in October?

Thanks,

Zoe

suze

Zoe~ I have not lived or traveled extensively in Hawaii, but have been there 5 times (4 times Oahu, and once to Maui).

Yes of course it is perfectly possible to travel without even seeing "luxury resorts for rich Americans or have a "honeymoon type luxury experience". Each island is very different from the others and each offers unique features.

But even in Waikiki/Honolulu, a heavily touristed area, there are plenty of budget hotels, grocery stores, food courts, local events, farmers markets, etc. for a more low-key experience.

Do you know which island(s) you are going to?

china_cat

It's certainly possible, and the simple answer is don't stay in any of the big luxury resorts! Rent a condo or a house, and stay someplace a bit more low key. I wouldn't stay in Wailea or Kapalua on Maui, or in Waikoloa on the Big Island, because these areas seem to be just wall-to-wall resorts.

If you haven't chosen islands yet, I would lean towards Kauai and the Big Island as most likely to give you the type of experience you are looking for. the Big Island, in particular, has a lot of interesting ancient sites that would give you a feel for Hawaiian history.

But like Suze said, you can find a more low-key, more genuininely Hawaiian experience on any of the islands, its just a question of looking for it.

wildblueyonder

LOL Zoe! Well, I went to Hawaii last year and am not rich, American or a honeymooner! I didn't actually notice anything of which you ask! We spent a week on Oahu, in a condo in Honolulu - right next to Waikiki Beach. There was plenty of 'real' Hawaii to enjoy (including, when we were there, the King Kamehameha Celebration Floral Parade.) I'm not sure what 'real' is - I doubt it exists - but 'ordinary' Hawaii was all around and you could be with crowds or away from them, whichever you wished.

We spent our second week on Hawaii Island - 3 days on the east side and 4 on the west. On the east side, we stayed in a rental house (not expensie) near Pahoa and enjoyed the Volcano NP, hiking to watch the lava hitting the ocean at night, waterfalls, beautiful botanical gardens. On the west coast, we stayed in a condo at Waikoloa. Perhaps there are a couple 'expensive' resorts up that way, but, all are welcome!

I would go back to Hawaii again in a heartbeat. It's a long way to travel, but worth every hunched up mile in the plane! You can't fail to enjoy it.

Placename

Plate lunch and spam musubi is about as authentic as it gets.

What sort of "culture" do you mean? Do you mean ancient Polynesian and Hawaiian culture, or current pan-pacific culture. Big difference.

suze

Also depends what you mean "fascinated by the culture". If you are picturing girls in grass skirts and hula dancing at sunset, that's one thing, and likely will involve being around other tourists. But realize there's a very "real" modern-day Hawaiian culture all around you. I think the idea of renting a house of VRBO in a smaller town would be one experience you might like. Once you determine your dates and which island you can check events calendars for local, less touristy activities to take part in.

Kailani

I also would suggest Kauai or the Big Island, as those islands are much less populated than the Maui and Oahu.

On the Big Island, there are many small communities where families have lived for many generations. I'm most familiar with the North Kohala area including the tiny twin towns of Hawi and Kapa'au. These towns are the birthplace and childhood home of King Kamehameha, who conquered and united the Hawaiian islands.

There are only about 6,000 people living in the area, and it is the most beautiful area with lush jungly gulches and rolling green pastures. The first Saturday in October is usually the Kohala Country Fair. Here's a link to last year's fair. I always try to go, and they have non-stop local music as well as local dance groups. http://www.kohalacountryfair.com/

Here is another link to the local community resource center which lists all the amazing non-profit activities in Kohala. http://www.northkohala.org/projects_current.html

The link also has beautiful photos of the area.

Here's a great story. The history of King Kamehameha includes the prophecy that to achieve his destiny as ruler, he would have to build a heiau (shrine) to the gods within one year, and the stones could never touch the ground. The stones were passed by a human chain from the Pololu Valley twenty miles away, thus strengthening and bonding the men involved who would then be well prepared for the battles that would ensue.

The new Kohala Public Library is going to have the public pass the books from the old library in a human chain a mile away! I hope I'm there to see that (if it really happens) but that's an example of the amazing and creative community that exists in that area.

On the Big Island there are many historical sites including Mo'okini Heiau, an ancient and desolate place of human sacrifice, King Kamehameha's birthplace, Lapakahi, an ancient fishing village, and Pu'ukohola, the heiau I mention above. This link has pictures and info about these and many more places. http://www.hawaiiweb.com/hawaii/html...ical_park.html

The main town of Kona has a lot of history, including the old palace and church. One Sunday a month there is a free concert and hula on the palace grounds. Also, once a month at the Mauna Lani hotel there is a free full moon "talk story" and music evening at an old cottage on the ocean in the midst of ancient royal fishing ponds. http://www.konahistorical.org/

The Ironman Triathlon also occurs in October. It is actually one of my favorite events, as the bicycle portion turns around in Hawi, and the whole town gathers to cheer the riders.

Here's a link for events by month on any island http://www.alternative-hawaii.com/calendar.htm , and another that I like for cheap activities on the Big Island. http://bigislandonthecheap.com/

So, I encourage you to search out music and hula wherever you go, and check out local newspapers for festivals (coffee, ukulele, etc.) that occur.

Placename

You should probably also watch some of the early episodes of Dog the Bounty Hunter to get an idea of contemporary Hawaiian culture.

mumpsimus

Noodaw, you pose an interesting dilemma. I've been going to Hawai'i for 50 years, and have seen it transformed from a wonderful, exotic, kind of innocent aloha culture to a much less exotic culture with a lot of real aloha, but also a lot of put-on-for-the-tourist aloha. To me, the centers like Waikiki hold no attraction, but they're perfect for lots of folks who aren't old enough to know what it was like 'back then.'

One place that has managed to hold back the tide somewhat is Kona Village Resort, in the sense that it is a replica of a Polynesian village. It was built on the grounds of an ancient Hawaiian village and they preserved many of the old traces. There are no concrete buildings, no traffic, no sounds typical of a busy resort, yet it is very respectable in its amenities. The staff has many people who have been there thirty years and more, and some who are descendants of the original residents of the old village. The spirit of 'ohana' or family is very strong there. I'm an utterly partisan guest and have returned over 30 times, and because I am so strong an advocate, I put up a website which describes the village in great detail. If you go to www.davidskvr.net and take a look, you'll know if it's your cup of tea or not.
David

travelinandgolfin

Zoe, most interesting question, and unless you get more specific, it's hard to answer. Are you talking about resort areas? All "touristy" areas? All hotels in general?

I will say this though. If you really don't want to be in any of these areas and choose to simply rent a house or condo, please be careful. Use reputable booking sites (though they will probably end up in "touristy" areas!)

Hawaii may be paradise, but it also has its share of bad areas, and you don't want to be wandering into them by mistake. Don't get me wrong....I've lived here for 50 years, but just be careful.

bakerstreet

When I want to be among people who live in the area I go to a church there and attend a service. In Hawaii one year we were in Maui on Easter Sunday and attended the service at the United Methodist Church in Lahaina; I think it was on Front Street. Fascinating, moving and well worth our time. We saw a performance by a men's choral group -- I think it was the Tongan choir (very large men). At one point the minister had us all stand and join hands and sing (those who knew the words anyway) a song written by the fomer Queen of Hawaii. Everyone was friendly, and while there were other tourists like us, by far the majority of the crowd was local. It was free, interesting and didn't take much time.

In London at Thanksgiving we attended the service at St. Paul's Cathedral -- it was aimed at Americans in London, so of course many tourists, but it was a big production celebrating the closeness of the two countries, the ambassador spoke, music was glorious and it was so worthwhile.

I have attended Easter services in Seville, Spain. Regular Sunday service at Notre Dame in Paris. A rehearsal of the Mormon Tabernacle Choir in Salt Lake City. That sort of thing.

Take "church clothes" with you and you'll be prepared!

Oh -- once in the Bahamas we were in a resort I hated -- all neon and casinos (it was a free trip) so one morning I got up very early and got on the local bus that stopped at the resort discharging maids. I rode as a passenger while the bus made its route around the residential areas, picking up mostly maids and similar and dropping them off at different hotels, and got off downtown and walked around. It was a fascinating way to see part of the area I otherwise would not have seen. And it cost only the price of a bus ticket.

optimystic

Hi Zoe, I'm also from the UK. I love Hawaii. I'd love to say I've travelled there extensively, but I've managed to go there 4 times.
I have to say I love Waikiki - its so 'American' and hot and sunny and beautiful and completely different to Britain.
On the other hand last time in Hawaii we stayed in Hanalei on Kauai, a very different experience to Waikiki! Much slower pace, we stayed in a little house ('vacation rental') and walked around the town/beach chilled out whilst also exploring Kauai.
Not sure if I have experienced the 'real Hawaii' but I definitely loved what we did experience. Plan to go back a fifth time in 2011.

Leitnermk

I think there are more historical places, museums etc., on Oahu. Chinatown is a great place to visit. Oahu is so much more than Waikiki.

suze

No kidding! I really agree with that last sentence above. And good point about places like Iolani Palace or Bishop Museum to get a better understanding of the island's history.

mclaurie

What "real" culture do you mean? It's like saying you want to visit an Indian reservation in the USA to see the culture. These people mostly live lives very much like you and me. The primary industry in Hawaii is tourism.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Culture_of_Hawaii

It is possible to have a less touristy time or visit the natural beauty of the islands, but don't go there looking for ancient culture because it's gone apart from what's put on for the tourists. Agree that Kauai and Big Island have the most to offer if you're interested in history, natural beauty and a low key trip.

suze

Doing normal, every day activities is a good way to find local culture. Going to church, shopping at the grocery store, fundraiser events, parades, etc.

I looked online and found exercise classes like I take at home (Zumba) and went to 4 different classes, where of course I was with all local women, no tourists.

charnees

On the Big Island, as Kailani says, Hawi and surroundings are pretty much old Hawaii with some artsy folks mixed in. You can look up the activities schedules for Kona and Hilo and find some Hawaiian music and dance programs that are not tourist luaus. The Outrigger Keauhou Beach Hotel in Kona has lots of programs that feature Hawaiian culture, including beginning hula (the REAL hula, not the touristy kind), lei-making, etc. Right next to that hotel are two HUGE stone platforms that were built about 200 years ago as heiau (hey'-ee-ow) like temples.

Rent a house or condo from VRBO.com and shop for groceries at the farmers' markets. (There are two big supermarkets in Kona and in Hilo, so you can get a lot of things you are accustomed to there.)

charnees

P.S. Yes, it is always hot and lovely, every day, except for occasional rain showers, which often happen at night. If you go up to the higher elevations you will need sweaters, or even a jacket. At sea level I have never even worn a sweater at any time of day. Forget about stockings even for dress-up. It's just too hot. And it's always quite casual, so don't bring any fancy dress. At the most you might want to go to the flea market and buy an inexpensive hawaiian shirt or dress to wear to one of the dance and music programs.

Sarah

You can start to read about cultural in Hawaii before you come. The Hawaiian language is older than English so yes there is a tremendous amount of history here. All of the cultures that came after have also blended a new history of their own. Somebody is always celebrating there roots here. Just last week we had the Honolulu festival, go online and you can see some of the pics of culture in Hawaii. Interesting for you if you learn about new residents from Marshall Islands, Micronesia, Samoa. I did not even know about Chuuk before I came to this island.

The more ancient history is not as easy to identify as the intact churches and basilicas of Europe. But recognizing a heiau when there is no marker on the big island can turn a walk off a black sand beach into a walk amongst ancient ruins/past communities. But yah gotta know what you are looking at to appreciate it. That for me took appreciating the culture before I came. That is reading outside guide books.

There is a thin book I read years ago when first traveling here called, "The concise guide to Hawaiian history". If you are hungrier one of my favorite books is "Hawaii Pono" by Samuel Fuchs. Its a social history of the islands. When you meet someone on the street you might have a better idea of how their grandparents first came to the island. The picture bride is a great movie for this too. So when you blow by an old sugar cane field or one that is still running on Kauai (???), you will have a sense of the ghosts that went before ye. That is a rich experience...for me anyway. Native books Hawaii for more ideas, also bishop museum gift shop online.

Pop culture : I can tell you Hawaii gave to the world, slack key, steel guitar and popularized the ukulele. Music is a huge part of the culture here. Totally different genres than what you will find on mainland US or anywhere else. Taropatch.net for slack key info. Hawaiian music hall of fame website for some insight into the rich tradition of music here.

University of Hawaii for all kinds of visiting performances. Again a larger selection from Asia than what you might see in London.

Looking online at the Honolulu star bulletin, Honolulu Advertiser, Honolulu Weekly. The last of three for a quick read and a run down of what we do for fun here. Metromix is a restaurant email I get from Advertiser. There is Asian food here you don't have in London this will help you see what to look out for.

Iolani Palace, Bishop Museum, Academy of Arts,
But you can bump into culture when you least expect it here if you learn a little about what to look for.

Finally don't knock the luxury hotels they are cheaper and better than what Europe has to offer. You are going to need some rest after that long flight . If one word described Hawaii I think it would be "relax" and it is easy to do that in a luxury hotel, I am sorry to say. Happy Trails!

mari808

Hi Sarah! Long time no see at our GTGs--you should come out!

Thanks for the Metromix shoutout. Here's the latest food gallery, our first real sake bar.

http://honolulu.metromix.com/restaur...826395/content