Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > United States
Reload this Page >

Thelma and Louise Grand Canyon Trip Report (kind of long)

Search

Thelma and Louise Grand Canyon Trip Report (kind of long)

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Oct 1st, 2004, 11:15 AM
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thelma and Louise Grand Canyon Trip Report (kind of long)

Wow! What a whirlwind trip we had! It was wonderful! My sister was TOTALLY surprised and we had a great trip! Thanks so much for all the advice!

My husband and I told her that she was going with me in the airport parking lot and it took some time before she really understood what was going on. For a second or two I thought maybe she knew about the surprise and didn't want to go but didn't know how to tell us. Then she started to tremble, then cry. She repeated "oh my god" over and over like an old vinyl album skipping. I handed her a my cellphone so she could call her kids and I had to actually tell her what it was. She was so out of it! On the plane she wept and shook on an off until we were half way across the country.

We arrived in Phoenix and I was able to put the cut out of her friend who sponsored the rental car in the back seat without her noticing. When she did see it she laughed hysterically. Later at the Canyon our cardboard traveling companion was a big hit and appears in other's photographs.

Once on 17 north she started breathing almost normally again but I'm sure she really thought she had been abducted by aliens when she saw the other-worldly landscape outside of Phoenix. She kept saying how beautiful it was, but I knew she hadn't seen anything...yet.

It was after five when we reached Sedona and daylight was fading so rather than waste time checking into the Hilton which is on the outskirts of town I drove further into the village so she could see the stunning rocks before sunset. She saw Cathedral Rock and Bell Rock from the car and was completely awestruck. I decided to turn around so we could check into the hotel, freshen up and find dinner. By that point in the day I could already taste a glass of good Merlot.

I was waiting to make a left turn when we both saw it. I was looking in the rearview mirror, she caught a glimpse in the passenger sideview: the van behind the Jeep Cherokee behind us was not stopping! The driver of the Cherokee saw it too and tried frantically to get out of the way by pulling into oncoming traffic to our left, leaving our car in line to be hit. But he wasn't quick enough and the steel-bumpered van driven by a young guy chatting on a cellphone, smashed into the jeep's tailgate. Lots of shattered glass and plastic. My sister and I both inhaled and held our breath sure that now both vehicles were going to smash into our trunk. But miraculously, neither of them did! One missed us by inches to the left, the other to the right. I'm not a big believer in trying to mystically explain the inexplicable but I have to say we both sat there, shocked to have escaped any contact at all. Thankfully no one in the other vehicles was hurt either, though apparently one was uninsured. It took a long time for the police to arrive and once they did we explained what we had seen (there were also other witnesses) and we were free to go. We got back in our rental car, still slightly shaky and started the car. As though on cue, Bette Middler's voice came out of the radio singing: "God is watching us. God is watching us." My sister and I cracked up, she being very Christian and me, very atheist!

I am pleased to report that our first night in Sedona was the most "eventful."

At the hotel we discovered that one of the desk staff had the same last name as me and had been awaiting our arrival. When he learned about our trip he tried to upgrade us to a suite but it would mean a golf course, not a red rock view so I thanked him but declined. Instead, he gave us free breakfasts!

The hotel was nice and the view was great. We ate at a restaurant we could walk to, Cucina Rustica, mainly because by that time I wanted more than one glass of Merlot and our previous auto adventure had me a little concerned about driving. We ate outside in the courtyard. It was divine. FIreplace and torches. I think most of the people out there were other northerners like us to whom the sixties temperature was like any good summer night. The couple next to us was from Massachusetts. The food was really good, he wine our server recommended was superb and my sister swears the waiter was hitting on me. He's simply working for a good tip, I assured her. And he got one. ;-) He also bought us dessert!

Back at the hotel that night my sister got to open the suitcase full of clothes that I had brought for her and was pleasantly surprised that I bought her clothes she would actually wear! She admitted fearing on the plane that I might have brought her outfits that I like.

Then next morning after our free breakfast at the hotel - Pink Jeep Tour! It was fantastic. But I suggest anyone doing the Broken Arrow tour consider scheduling a massage afterward. Bumpy! Bumpy! It was wonderful and our driver, Brenda, was so personable and knowledgeable, not to mention a skilled driver! She shared a lot of information about the geology, the history and a little bit of local color. It was perfect and I would recommend it for anyone. There are "gentler" tours too.

After the jeep tour we breezed through Sedona and headed north for the Canyon, stopping at a beautiful scenic lookout and then "neglected Flagstaff" only long enough to buy another card for her digital camera and use the post office.

Around 5pm we arrived. I can't put into words what it was like to watch my sister see the Grand Canyon for the first time. It was one of those moments you don't forget. And of course, she started crying again! So did I. I had driven east along the Desert View road so she could see the big hole before the sun was too low. It was my third time seeing this marvel and it gets better every time.

We checked into Yavapai Lodge. Our room was in the last building. Quite a haul from the rim, not a quick fifteen minute walk as I had read, more like a half hour. That was my only disappointment, but the flip side was that our accommodations were more secluded, less busy with traffic and people. The room itself was well equipped, clean and accessible. I would stay here again.

We walked to the rim that first night and she was speechless and breathless - not surprising since barely twelve hours earlier she had no idea that she would be standing there! On our walk, near the rim, we came upon a herd of Elk in the woods. These animals were enormous and beautiful.

Dinner that night was cheese, bread, wine and peanut butter cups in the room.

Saturday morning we were out the door around 7am and took the bus to Kaibab Trail where we hiked into the canyon. While there we did what I suspect a lot of people have probably done, in a remote corner we scattered my mother's ashes. It's funny, the things that go through your mind while you're tossing handfuls of ash into one of the world's seven wonders - ash that used to be your mother. It's a little like stepping into a Salvador Dali painting where the distorted landscape stretches out to the horizon and all the clocks have melted or twisted until you find yourself standing in front of behind you. It was emotionally cathartic.

Before we left I had spent two days on the phone with a production assistant from A&E's television show Airline. We were flying Southwest Airlines and they were going to document this incredible journey, but after several phone calls over two days we couldn't make our schedule match their crew availability. I was a little disappointed for my sister because I knew she would love the idea of being on television - but I was personally very relieved to not have the added stress and intrusion. Seeing her on that ledge. weeping - I realized that this was meant to be her private moment. (Though she can be such a ham - she would have "coped" with the cameras. I was glad she didn't have to.)

Then, because it wasn't all emotional enough, after lunch at the cafeteria we were off on a helicopter tour. Originally it had been arranged by A&E people but we kept the reservation - after I had learned that my mom had taken the helicopter ride those months before her death I knew my sister would like to share the experience. We used Papillon Helicopter Tours (www.papillon.com) and they were a great outfit. Because of weight issues I was assigned the front seat beside the pilot which gave me the undeniable best view. Now it was my turn to get teary. This was one of the most extraordinary experiences of my life - and I've have a pretty special life! It was a little scary watching the world drop away a mile further after we cleared the pine trees, but it was so amazing that the fear soon gave way to awe. I couldn't see my sister but she later told me that the couple from Germany seated beside her had no idea what she was crying for. "They must have been blind." she added. ;-)

That night we ate dinner in the Arizona Room at Bright Angel Lodge and it was fine. I ordered Trout with lemon-sage butter; she had prime rib. It was all tasty enough but nothing stood outl. We really didn't care - we were happily exhausted. Besides, the exquisite scenery and sinking sun makes everything that much more palatable!

Afterward, a stop at the market for a pint Ben and Jerry's and off to sleep!

Sunday we awoke early and were heading to Yaki point by 5:45 for the sunrise. So worth a losing a little sleep! To see the canyon materialize out of the darkness was a treat - like it wasn't there before. Delicious!

After checking out we left the park on 64 toward Desert View. We stopped at a few roadside markets and bought treasures to take home. I already had jewelry from previous trips so I concentrated on horse hair pottery. On the road I was able to get two simple, stunning, pieces for about half the price of what they were selling for in gift shops. A great deal.

We stopped at several lookouts, Grandview was just that! Also spent some time at the Watch Tower which gave a lovely view of the Painted Desert. We took the advice of making time for Wupatki National Monument - great idea!!! We loved wandering around the ruins. The parks department was having an exhibition including pottery and it was fun to watch children create their own pots like they did in past cultures.

We slowed down but did not stop at the Sunset Crater. It looked, um, interesting?

Our last two nights were spent in Cottonwood, at the Quality Inn. Except for being led to believe I would have internet access when I made the reservation, the room was fine. Basic, clean. The air conditioning did not work the first night but they fixed it as soon as we alerted them. Free continental breakfast and USA Today. The desk staff was sort of useless and ill-tempered except for a fellow named Marty who tried to be helpful and was genuinely interested that the guests had a good time. Dining options in Cottonwood are VERY limited. If you plan to stay there plan on eating in Jerome or Sedona. We stayed in town and wound up at a place called Michael's Grille (i think). It was one very teensy-weensy step above Applebees and that was only because they had some interesting wines. My sister ordered Toasted Ravioli and loved it. (But I've seen my sister eat Cheez Wiz and Bugles) I would rather forget my meal so I won't describe it.

The next morning, our last full day in Arizona, we took Route 260 and wandered over to Montezuma's Castle. Another treat and so easy. Oh, but before that we detoured to the Casino across from the Montezuma Road and vowed to only lose $5 each on slot machines. That's precisely what we did, and in record time!

By lunchtime we were seated at The Haunted Hamburger in Jerome. The view was mesmerizing. The atmosphere was festive and cheerful, the food was worthwhile. We each had cheeseburgers - and my experience has been that only MacDonald's can ruin a cheeseburger - so it was good. The steak fries were memorable! A table next to us ordered the Fajitas which smelled fantastic and there were no leftovers so I deduced they tasted good too!. We saw a huge slice of lemon meringue pie go by that got our attention, but we did not indulge in dessert.

Jerome was a real blast to walk around. The historic, almost quirky personality of the old mining town was intriguing and delightful. The artist cooperatives and galleries fed my need for art. There I bought a pair of handmade shoes that are masterpieces I will include a photo of them on the web page I am putting together. I've never seen shoes like these - and as my sister pointed out - I HAD to get them - they were so me! So what if I was only bringing the understanding, supportive husband a $15 Grand Canyon T-shirt.

Tuesday we reluctantly returned to Phoenix for the flight home. Both legs of our flight were delayed, the first by an hour, the second by just short of an hour, because of Hurricane Jeanne. By the time we landed in Albany at 11:00pm I could not wait to get home - which was another hour and forty minute drive!

My husband met us at the airport and we spent the whole drive home describing our adventure. And told him also about the accident the first night in Sedona. We knew telling him before we were safely home would have him worried. He thanked us for that! And we thanked him for originally having the idea to send my sister to the Grand Canyon.

So thank you all too! Your wisdom and encouragement was invaluable. I'm sorry I didn't really note roads we took and precise names, but my sister kept the map and all the literature! She kept everything! From brochures to cocktail napkins! It was an insanely great birthday adventure. One I know she'll treasure.

I hope this trip report makes some sense. I've been home two days and feel like I am just beginning to re-enter my time zone!

thelmaandlouise is offline  
Old Oct 1st, 2004, 11:22 AM
  #2  
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 923
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Your report is so full of energy I can tell you had a great time!!!

Congratulations to you and your sister!
LilyLace is offline  
Old Oct 1st, 2004, 11:30 AM
  #3  
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I've been waiting to read your trip report to hear how it all turned out. Sounds wonderful! Thanks for sharing.
bayareamama is offline  
Old Oct 1st, 2004, 12:31 PM
  #4  
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 45,322
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
This is a beautiful story! Thank you for sharing it with all of us. How fortunate your sister is to have you not only as a sister but a true friend.
LoveItaly is offline  
Old Oct 1st, 2004, 01:56 PM
  #5  
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,137
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
WONDERFUL report. Great reading and I bet even greater doing it! Thanks for sharing.
wanderluster is offline  
Old Oct 1st, 2004, 02:28 PM
  #6  
 
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Now you both have to come back out west and see more of the fantastic sights (Bryce, Zion, Capitol Reef, Arches, Dead Horse Point, Canyonlands, Mesa Verde, etc, etc!) Glad you saw some Elk but did you see any 'Elk Dogs' (Trail of the Spanish Bit)?
LarryT is offline  
Old Oct 1st, 2004, 03:07 PM
  #7  
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,760
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
That was worth waiting for!
tracys2cents is offline  
Old Oct 1st, 2004, 04:49 PM
  #8  
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,080
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
This is just incredible. Congratulations on your great surprise, and wonderful trip. I was nearly crying along with you both while reading about it.
I LOVE the part about strangers pictures with your cut-out sponsor! And the ashes and repeat helicopter ride are so poignant. Too bad SW's cameras weren't there.
You are so lucky to have your sister, and amazingly wonderful husband.
Dreamer2 is offline  
Old Oct 2nd, 2004, 10:58 AM
  #9  
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 459
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for posting your report. I was just thinking about you yesterday. I have a week's vacation coming up in November and I'm thinking about trying the Grand Canyon again. Did it last year in November but when we got there it was rainy and foggy and we didn't get to see much. We only stayed there one night and took off early the next morning as it was starting to snow. I'd really love to be there in the better weather. So glad your sister enjoyed the trip. It's an inspiration for all of us.
antlori is offline  
Old Oct 2nd, 2004, 12:09 PM
  #10  
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 656
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Enjoyed your report very much - thanks! Brought back memories of our recent trip - and brought tears to my eyes too! What a wonderful sister you are!
wildblueyonder is offline  
Old Oct 2nd, 2004, 12:40 PM
  #11  
 
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
So great to hear about your adventure. You gals will be re-living this for years and years. What a gift of a whole weekful of memories! Thanks for sharing.
mwessel is offline  
Old Oct 2nd, 2004, 01:01 PM
  #12  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,881
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
thelmaandlouise: What a wonderfrul trip report and what a great sister you are!

I have an off-forum question I'd like to ask you. Would you e-mail me at DonWood at CascadeAccess.com. You know how to change it into a real e-mail address. I promise I won't continue to bug you - I just need one question answered.

Thanks - Don
dwooddon is offline  
Old Oct 2nd, 2004, 01:42 PM
  #13  
jtp
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I kept checking in for this report and it was well worth the wait!
Welcome home and thanks for a great report, goose bumps and tears.
jtp is offline  
Old Oct 3rd, 2004, 07:01 AM
  #14  
Syl
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 497
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
We'll also be staying at Yavapai Lodge within the next 2 weeks. Do you think we should take a flashlight for the path to the rim as the sun rises in the morning & for the sunset at night?
Syl is offline  
Old Oct 3rd, 2004, 12:11 PM
  #15  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Yes Syl, definitely bring a flashlight for each person, particularly after sunset as it gets dark quickly. Most of the public places are lit, but not brightly and we had to walk though a couple of pitch-black spots when we were searching for out car after dinner at the Arizona Room.

And as promised, I put together a couple of web pages so everyone who particpated can see what happened. I thought I would share it with you all as well:

www.christineglade.com/tracey2004

I shot mainly video on this trip and still have to edit it so very little of it is there. The helicopter ride footage is very powerful. Somehow though I still managed to take over 150 photos - and they all look like all the photos one sees of the Grand Canyon - absolutely nothing like being there! But people are asking to see them anyway. I still have to get a copy of the CD of pictures my sister took. It will be interesting to see it through her eyes.
thelmaandlouise is offline  
Old Oct 3rd, 2004, 03:34 PM
  #16  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,881
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Great photos, Tracey! Thnaks for your help.
dwooddon is offline  
Old Oct 4th, 2004, 03:38 AM
  #17  
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,790
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Congratulations!!! I was eagerly waiting for this report. Great pictures.
marigross is offline  
Old Oct 4th, 2004, 04:08 AM
  #18  
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 309
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks so much for sharing, great ending to a great story!
AnnaR is offline  
Old Oct 4th, 2004, 06:04 AM
  #19  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 954
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I was so happy to hear that your trip went as well (or better even) than expected. Have been checking the site often to hear all about it and was not disappointed. Your pictures and the video are AWESOME! And it was nice to finally see 'Thelma and Louise'. My motto in life is "you get what you give." So I am certain that your life will continue to be full and happy
ccrosner is offline  
Old Oct 4th, 2004, 08:08 AM
  #20  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,991
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
thelma (or are you louise?), Glad to hear you had such a great trip! We were at the Grand Canyon just after you (I'll be doing a trip report in the next day or two). I'm just wondering if you live near me. Our drive home from Albany is a little under two hours.
SusanP is offline  


Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -