Stellarossa: Monument Valley
Jan 3rd, 2001, 01:50 AM
#1
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Stellarossa: Monument Valley
Is the road through monument valley paved and, as I believe it is on Native American ground, do I have to pay/require a permit? How long does it take If I am driving north to south?
Are Tuba City and Kayenta fairly sizeable towns?
Are Tuba City and Kayenta fairly sizeable towns?
Jan 3rd, 2001, 05:41 AM
#2
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haven't been there for a few years but when I was there the road leading to the valley was paved, but within the valley they were not. Caution is advised on the road leading to the valley as it is open range land so that the cattle will wander onto the road at any time.
You are correct in that the valley is owned by the Navajo tribe. I do not recall requiring any special permits but that may have changed.
There is a wonderful lodge in the valley that is a nice place to stay, called Goulding's. Check it out at the web site http://www.gouldings.com/. This is the best place to stay for great sunsets and sunrises over the valley.
Tuba City and Kayenta are both small towns. If you can get room at Goulding's go for it.
You are correct in that the valley is owned by the Navajo tribe. I do not recall requiring any special permits but that may have changed.
There is a wonderful lodge in the valley that is a nice place to stay, called Goulding's. Check it out at the web site http://www.gouldings.com/. This is the best place to stay for great sunsets and sunrises over the valley.
Tuba City and Kayenta are both small towns. If you can get room at Goulding's go for it.
Jan 3rd, 2001, 05:48 AM
#3
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The road going through MV is two-lane blacktop in good condition. Some side roads are unpaved. These roads are on the Navajo Reservation. As far as I know, if you stay on the paving, no fees are to be paid. Depending on the weather, it is advised you stay on the paving. The dirt roads can be very poor in wet weather. Tuba City and Kayenta are about 10,000 population each but draw trade from a wide area. Motels in both places. If you want to stay in MV itself, about the only place there is Goulding's Trading Post and Motel, just north of the AZ-UT border and on a paved road leading off the main highway about two miles west. Reservations recommended as it is very popular with tourists. Miles and miles of open space. There also is a motel at Mexican Hat and some others in Blanding and Monticello, UT, just north of MV. If it were my choice, I would stay in Blanding or Monticello and come down to MV at sunup. Spectacular.
Jan 3rd, 2001, 05:48 AM
#4
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Sam is right about Goulding's Lodge. Stay there and get up early, go out on your balcony (I believe every room has one) and watch the sun come up over the monuments--one of life's truly beautiful experiences.
The road within the property is not paved. I think you have to pay and/or get a permit to drive the property on your own. To truly appreciate the experience, I would think that you must spend a minimum of a couple hours.
The road within the property is not paved. I think you have to pay and/or get a permit to drive the property on your own. To truly appreciate the experience, I would think that you must spend a minimum of a couple hours.
Jan 3rd, 2001, 06:07 AM
#5
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Thanks for the help everyone. Another couple of questions:
Could I make it to MV from Durango, Colorado in one day, if so how long does it take?
How long would it take to get to either Williams or Sedona from MV? (would it be about 6 hours to Phoenix?)
Goulding's looks very nice.
Could I make it to MV from Durango, Colorado in one day, if so how long does it take?
How long would it take to get to either Williams or Sedona from MV? (would it be about 6 hours to Phoenix?)
Goulding's looks very nice.
Jan 3rd, 2001, 06:34 AM
#7
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Tony, the road on the valley floor is unpaved, and advertised as "too rough" for non 4WD vehicles, although I recall our rental saloon did just fine - the Navajos have been accused of keeping it bumpy to encourage use of the many tour services run by tribal members, which is a good thing anyway, in order to keep traffic density down and add something to the local economy, which apart from tourism is pretty nonexistant. There's a nominal fee to enter the MV tribal park, and I think an additional fee to drive your own car on the valley floor, but not very pricy. The cost for the guided tours is reasonable, too.
Kayenta has some OK motels and cafes totally aimed at tourists, but otherwise unremarkable. I would second Al's suggestion about staying on the Utah side and driving down - an amazing stretch of highway.
If you're in this general area you really ought to take the time to visit Canyon de Chelly, a couple of hours' drive from MV. Sensational, eerie, not to be forgotten.
Yes, you can get there in one day, about 3 hours, and yes, about 6 hours, depending on your foot and luck with the fuzz. Navajo tribal police are unforgiving, BTW.
Kayenta has some OK motels and cafes totally aimed at tourists, but otherwise unremarkable. I would second Al's suggestion about staying on the Utah side and driving down - an amazing stretch of highway.
If you're in this general area you really ought to take the time to visit Canyon de Chelly, a couple of hours' drive from MV. Sensational, eerie, not to be forgotten.
Yes, you can get there in one day, about 3 hours, and yes, about 6 hours, depending on your foot and luck with the fuzz. Navajo tribal police are unforgiving, BTW.
Jan 3rd, 2001, 06:46 AM
#8
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Tribal police? Like normal police but Native Americans?
Howard: Do I pass through Mesa Verde from Durango on the way to Four Corners?
John: Can I get from Kayenta to Canton Du Chelly without backtracking onto 191?
Finally, what's the weather like in that area in mid to late march?
Howard: Do I pass through Mesa Verde from Durango on the way to Four Corners?
John: Can I get from Kayenta to Canton Du Chelly without backtracking onto 191?
Finally, what's the weather like in that area in mid to late march?
Jan 3rd, 2001, 06:56 AM
#10
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Tony, the Navajo tribe (like the others) is a separate nation, with its own law & justice and governance institutions, including police. The US government acts in a "trust" capacity, with a separation of powers spelt out in the treaties signed (usually at gunpoint) back when. So yeah, real police, and pretty good cops at that.
I haven't driven any of the smaller roads in order to avoid 191, but I suppose it would be possible. But even with backtracking Canyon de Chelly is worth it.
I haven't driven any of the smaller roads in order to avoid 191, but I suppose it would be possible. But even with backtracking Canyon de Chelly is worth it.
Jan 3rd, 2001, 07:00 AM
#12
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Forgot to add, weather in late March should be sublime. We were at Canyon de Chelly in late March one year and there was a light dusting of snow on the tops of the mesas - hoowee, what a knockout, green vally floor, red rocks and cliffs, mist around the columns, white on top.
Jan 3rd, 2001, 07:39 AM
#13
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Tony: While I agree fully with most of the advice given to you above, I would like to get my 2 cents worth in.
Mesa Verde will be cold that time of year. You are sitting up on a plateau that is literally high and dry.
While in that area, stop by the Goosenecks of the San Juan state park.
It is a text book example of an entrenched meander. (The San Juan is a river in those parts.) Depending on your schedule at Mesa Verde, if you have time for only one ruin, my suggestion is Balcony House as 1st choice and Cliff Palace as 2nd choice.
I know people wax poetic over Monument Valley. I for some reason cannot get worked up over it. Perhaps it is because I have seen it too much; perhaps it is because I have always seen it at the end of the trip after places like Canyonlands NP, Arches NP, Capitol Reefs NP, Zion NP, and Bryce NP.
Route US 160 goes right by the Four Corners Monument, which is a nice place for a photo with your foot (or other body part) in 4 states simultaneously. Only place in the US where you can do it.
Canyon de Chelly is a sandstone canyon with sheer sides, some of which are coated with "desert varnish", a mineral stain that colors the red rock a darker hue. It is worth a visit if you have time. The only way to enter the canyon is with a Navajo guide as part of a tour group. The guide we had spoke very rapidly and struck a posture that precluded any revisiting of the features on the canyon walls. If you missed his opening directions to pick out a spot on the canyon wall as a point of reference, you missed the attraction and there was no going back.
There is not much to the two little towns you mentioned. I have stopped there at one time or the other to eat or get gas. Usually we moved on to other attractions.
I cannot give you exact timings, but we made it from Monticello Utah to Phoenix easily in a day, with a stop at Wupatki/Sunset Crater. We still got into Phoenix by 5 PM.
And yes, you are in the Navajo Nation. You don't need a passport, but the are tribal laws in effect. No fees if you stay on the main highway, all of which is paved.
Mesa Verde will be cold that time of year. You are sitting up on a plateau that is literally high and dry.
While in that area, stop by the Goosenecks of the San Juan state park.
It is a text book example of an entrenched meander. (The San Juan is a river in those parts.) Depending on your schedule at Mesa Verde, if you have time for only one ruin, my suggestion is Balcony House as 1st choice and Cliff Palace as 2nd choice.
I know people wax poetic over Monument Valley. I for some reason cannot get worked up over it. Perhaps it is because I have seen it too much; perhaps it is because I have always seen it at the end of the trip after places like Canyonlands NP, Arches NP, Capitol Reefs NP, Zion NP, and Bryce NP.
Route US 160 goes right by the Four Corners Monument, which is a nice place for a photo with your foot (or other body part) in 4 states simultaneously. Only place in the US where you can do it.
Canyon de Chelly is a sandstone canyon with sheer sides, some of which are coated with "desert varnish", a mineral stain that colors the red rock a darker hue. It is worth a visit if you have time. The only way to enter the canyon is with a Navajo guide as part of a tour group. The guide we had spoke very rapidly and struck a posture that precluded any revisiting of the features on the canyon walls. If you missed his opening directions to pick out a spot on the canyon wall as a point of reference, you missed the attraction and there was no going back.
There is not much to the two little towns you mentioned. I have stopped there at one time or the other to eat or get gas. Usually we moved on to other attractions.
I cannot give you exact timings, but we made it from Monticello Utah to Phoenix easily in a day, with a stop at Wupatki/Sunset Crater. We still got into Phoenix by 5 PM.
And yes, you are in the Navajo Nation. You don't need a passport, but the are tribal laws in effect. No fees if you stay on the main highway, all of which is paved.
Jan 3rd, 2001, 09:38 AM
#16
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Count me as another Tony Hillerman recommendee. In fact, his books were our original inspiration to go to the Southwest for the first time 11 years ago!
To Bob Brown: I think it's truly unfortunate that your experiences at both Monument Valley and Canyon de Chelly were less than memorable. Both remain high on our A list.
To Bob Brown: I think it's truly unfortunate that your experiences at both Monument Valley and Canyon de Chelly were less than memorable. Both remain high on our A list.
Jan 3rd, 2001, 10:24 AM
#17
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Canyon de Chelly was memorable, and I did say it was worthwhile. Monument Valley is fine, I just don't get emotional about it. Last June, we drove through it after Sedona, Oak Creek Canyon, both rims of the Grand Canyon,
Glenn Canyon, Zion, Cedar Breaks, Bryce,
Capitol Reefs, Vermillion Cliffs, Canyonlands, Arches, Natural Bridges, and that awesome view over Monument Valley from the edge of the mesa after you drive south from Natural Bridges.
The sandstone monoliths of Monument Valley are fascinating enough, but by the time I got there last year, I had seen quite a bit. As a result, it was just another world class attraction. On other trips, perhaps the same has been true. Perhaps I need to go there first, or at least see the monoliths before the other attractions I named.
To amend my previous post about MV, I have studied the geology of the region and find the origin of the monoliths to be fascinating, even incredible. If others get spiritual fulfilment out of those monoliths, then great! I understand how they feel because there are many places in the desert Southwest that have moved me to a feeling of a deep appreciation for nature. Everybody has a different source of enjoyment.
I think the goal is to enjoy our time out there and to feel preservationist enough to support efforts to maintain the national monuments and parks for future generations.
Glenn Canyon, Zion, Cedar Breaks, Bryce,
Capitol Reefs, Vermillion Cliffs, Canyonlands, Arches, Natural Bridges, and that awesome view over Monument Valley from the edge of the mesa after you drive south from Natural Bridges.
The sandstone monoliths of Monument Valley are fascinating enough, but by the time I got there last year, I had seen quite a bit. As a result, it was just another world class attraction. On other trips, perhaps the same has been true. Perhaps I need to go there first, or at least see the monoliths before the other attractions I named.
To amend my previous post about MV, I have studied the geology of the region and find the origin of the monoliths to be fascinating, even incredible. If others get spiritual fulfilment out of those monoliths, then great! I understand how they feel because there are many places in the desert Southwest that have moved me to a feeling of a deep appreciation for nature. Everybody has a different source of enjoyment.
I think the goal is to enjoy our time out there and to feel preservationist enough to support efforts to maintain the national monuments and parks for future generations.
Jan 3rd, 2001, 11:33 AM
#18
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Not much for me left to add, except:
At Monument Valley, take a guided horse trip out into the valley. They have them in various lengths of time, i.e., 1 hour, 2 hours, etc. The reason I like this is A) it gives you a true sense of what it was like to be in the wild west, and you see all the vistas you saw in the John Wayne movies, and you feel just like John Wayne on horseback; and B) unlike other places where you rent horses and go out with a guide, in Monument Valley they let you gallop on your horse if you want. Talk about a rush!!!
At Monument Valley, take a guided horse trip out into the valley. They have them in various lengths of time, i.e., 1 hour, 2 hours, etc. The reason I like this is A) it gives you a true sense of what it was like to be in the wild west, and you see all the vistas you saw in the John Wayne movies, and you feel just like John Wayne on horseback; and B) unlike other places where you rent horses and go out with a guide, in Monument Valley they let you gallop on your horse if you want. Talk about a rush!!!
Jan 3rd, 2001, 11:39 AM
#19
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I just want to see it! I'm no tree (or rock in this case) hugger.
I felt the same about the Grand Canyon - good to look at, sunrise was fun (although a party of irritating Chinese turned up and one of them barged my petite mother out of the way so he sworn at and despite not knowing what I was saying, I'm sure he got the jist of it). That's the thing - it was ok, good even but nothing spiritual for me. So I'm eager to see MV but It wont change my life.
Incidentally I drove through a reservation in the southwest a couple of years ago and saw almost no-one, just rock and scrub. I take it the Natives didnt choose the locations?
I felt the same about the Grand Canyon - good to look at, sunrise was fun (although a party of irritating Chinese turned up and one of them barged my petite mother out of the way so he sworn at and despite not knowing what I was saying, I'm sure he got the jist of it). That's the thing - it was ok, good even but nothing spiritual for me. So I'm eager to see MV but It wont change my life.
Incidentally I drove through a reservation in the southwest a couple of years ago and saw almost no-one, just rock and scrub. I take it the Natives didnt choose the locations?
Jan 3rd, 2001, 12:17 PM
#20
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How often do forced exiles choose their Siberias? Of course, their are Indian reservations all over the US, but those in the SW are the largest, area-wise. For an excellent history of how American Indian Nations were forced from where they were and ended up where they are, I highly recommend Dee Brown's classic (and heartbreaking) "Bury My Heart at Wounded Knee," published in 1969 but still very much in print.
