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Old Sep 11th, 2006, 08:44 AM
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New Mexico Pueblos

I've tried searching through the threads here and also around the internet, but I'm just not finding what I need. I'm hoping the experience of Fodorites might be able to help me out!

I'm in the midst of finalizing my trip to northern New Mexico the second week in October and I'm thinking of visiting a pueblo, but can anyone tell me what to expect? So far I'm completely aware of what my behavior is supposed to be and I've no problems with that. But I've no idea what to expect if I go to a pueblo. There seems to be a tour, but a tour of what? From what I understand, people live here - would I be wandering around their neighborhoods? That seems odd to me, but perhaps I don't understand. Or is it touring artisans working on their crafts? That makes more sense, though I have no intention of buying anything - would this be uncomfortable?

During the time we will be going there are no fesitvals and such, so I will not be fortunate in that respect. I would like to experience the Native American culture and learn more about it while I'm there, but can this be done on a pueblo? It just seems the emphasis is on buying stuff. But, again, perhaps I'm just all wrong on that.

I do have visiting the Puelo Cultural Center in Albaquerque high on my list for either the first or second day we are there to gain more perspective. And I will have a day either in Albuquerque or Taos available to visit a pueblo and one day in the Santa Fe area to visit one as well, so there will be plenty of opportunity.

I love history and I love other cultures, but I'm really not into shopping at all. I'll be traveling with my mother who is sort of into history and culture as long as it is intense enough to hold her interest, and considers shopping a waste of time. Would a visit to a pueblo be in the cards for us?
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Old Sep 11th, 2006, 08:50 AM
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I'm planning a similar trip next year so I'm interested to see what others have to say.
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Old Sep 11th, 2006, 09:04 AM
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I've been to a handful of pueblos in New Mexico, but I don't classify myself as an expert.
I suppose that the Taos Pueblo probably offers the most bang for the buck. I've been to a few that have required more in drive time than in time needed to walk around the pueblo.
The Taos Pueblo is larger than most, and it does offer some little shops, but it's definately not a shopping destination. It's more of a place to see how the Indians live/lived.
I know some people who have gotten somewhat depressed after visiting a pueblo.
There's also a bit of opportunism present. They charge to get in, they charge you extra if you have a camera, etc.
Frankly, I'm not sure if a tour would be worthwhile, unless you wanted to learn everything there is to know about the place.
And yes, you are wandering around in someone's neighborhood.
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Old Sep 11th, 2006, 09:12 AM
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Yes -- definitely go to a pueblo! Preferably after visiting the Cultural Center in Albuquerque.

The Center also has a dance show at 2:00. You will probably not see any dancing at the Pueblo itself.

We went to San Ildefonso in New Mexico & Walpi in Arizona. We wanted to go to Taos but they were closed for religious observance. Taos is supposed to be the best preserved of the pueblos & is multi-level. San Ildefonso is famous for having a female pottery artist live & work there until she was in her 90s.

Walpi is a multilevel structure like Taos & San I is more of a village setting.

The Cultural Center website has good information about visiting each one & each Pueblo has their own website.

You do not have to feel obligated to buy anything -- just do not enter the homes or shops that have a sign that they are selling something. We did buy a small piece of pottery & a Kachina doll. I usually do not shop on vacation either.

Some have guided tours & some are self guided. Just follow the rules & have common sense & respect. The people live, work, & worship at their Pueblos!

We were made to feel very comfortable on both occasions.

Have a great time -- you will love NM!
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Old Sep 11th, 2006, 09:42 AM
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Taos Pueblo is worth the price of the tour. Our guide grew up in the pueblo and returned to live there after college. She gave many cultural & spiritual insights on the tour.

We went to Jemez Pueblo on our own, but it was just like driving through a neighborhood.

The Museum of Indian Arts and Culture in the museum complex at Santa Fe is really beautiful and interesting. The Folk Museum across from it is unlike any museum I've ever been to-it's really great.They are both closed Mondays.

Enjoy your stay in New Mexico. It's an amazing place.

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Old Sep 11th, 2006, 09:58 AM
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Taos pueblo is just great. Don't forget to try the Indian fry bread.
 
Old Sep 11th, 2006, 10:02 AM
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We visited Taos Pueblo last fall, and while it does have a commercial feel, I think it would be worth your time. The several shops in the Pueblo carry goods mostly made by residents, sometimes right in front of your eyes. We bought a beautiful ceramic vase that was hand-painted with intricate geometric designs. It was fascinating to watch as the woman created the designs free-hand, without the aid of a pattern or stencil.

Tours are led by college-age kids, and are free (aside from the expected tip). So if you truly are interested in the culture, there's no reason not to take one.
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Old Sep 11th, 2006, 10:09 AM
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Acoma is also a terrific pueblo to visit. It is west of Albuquerque. I would recommend it along with Taos.

You really need to see these if you are in NM...it is so important to see the culture here.

Hope this helps...
Debi
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Old Sep 11th, 2006, 10:32 AM
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Although Taos Pueblo is supposed to have been continuously occupied for a very long time, it is really pushing the description of a viable town. It is really a historic, archeological site more than living, inhabited pueblo, but certainly well worth a visit for that reason, and the art sold out of the individual apartments is wonderful. (As one native american "resident" artist told me, "few actually live here; it's kept as close to original as possible, and most go home at the end of a day spent here." Then he added with a smile, "after all, everybody likes a hot shower, right?")
The self-guided tour for Taos Pueblo is excellent; if you are very lucky, you will be there for one of the open-to-the-public festival/ceremonial days.
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Old Sep 11th, 2006, 12:09 PM
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I also recommend visiting the Taos and Acoma pueblos. Visiting the other pueblos, unless on a festival day, is like driving through someone else's neighborhood.
As for appreciating the culture, the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture, on Museum hill, has an outstanding collection and offers very informative tours by the docents. This could give you some good background before you head out to Acoma or Taos.

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Old Sep 11th, 2006, 12:11 PM
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We've been to San Ildefonso, San Carlos, Acoma, Taos, and several others. San Ildefonso was perhaps the most visually interesting, a place you could imagine living, Taos and Acoma the best tours. The old pueblo at San Carlos was fascinating, the new town looked like a lower end subdivision in Oklahoma City, so the point about where people really live is well taken.

At Acoma, you park below at a visitor's center with a restaurant and take a minibus up a very steep road onto the mesa.

At Taos, you park outside the Pueblo and tour with a guide. At San Carlos and San Ildefonso, you just wander around (or did a couple of years ago).

The people who live in these places or preserve them as family homes often have very strong opinions, some of them not politically correct, about people in other pueblos, sort of like Serbs and Croats, and some of them are not too wild about white people, for valid historical reasons. One interesting fact at Taos is that property passes through the female line, as is the case in many tribal societies.

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Old Sep 11th, 2006, 12:47 PM
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Chele60,

If you really want to find out more about the history of the pueblos, be sure to talk to the people working in the stores, workshops or restaurants. I've found most of them are more than willing to share stories if you are genuinely interested.

Also, if you want to take any photos, you have to get a photo permit - usually an extra $20. (Same for videotaping or even sketching.) It's always a good idea to ask before taking someone's photo, and then if you do, it's a very nice gesture to tip them $5 or more. I often get their names and send them a photo later too. I've received several letters back saying how much they appreciated that.

You are free to walk around most pueblos, but there are usually signs that let you know where you should not go (private homes), or in some cases signs only at the places you can enter. Respect these signs, and you'll be fine.

You should also never enter a cemetery, nor take pictures of one. Never enter a ceremonial Kiva either. I think pictures from the outside are ok though. Most pueblos also do not like pictures taken of the inside of their chapels either. They also do not like people to walk in their rivers, as some pueblos, including Taos, use the river as their source of drinking water.

Most importantly, just be respectful of the Pueblo people and their property and if you're unsure of something, ask.

Hope you have a great trip!
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Old Sep 11th, 2006, 01:51 PM
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Thanks, all! This gives me a better idea of what to expect, and I appreciate that. I'm thinking now it might be a better idea to leave Albuquerque a day earlier and get to Taos earlier to visit the pueblo. If I do I think the guided tour would be best to help my mother understand what she's seeing and to help answer my questions! Does anyone know if the crowds taper down at the beginning of October?

I'm really looking forward to visiting the Land of Enchantment!
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Old Sep 11th, 2006, 02:18 PM
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Depends on when in the beginning of October. The Balloon Fiesta is Oct. 6-15th in ABQ. Also, the Taos Pueblo San Geronimo Feast Day takes place on Sept. 30th and sometimes the pueblo closes for a few days afterwards. You may want to call before heading up there.
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Old Sep 11th, 2006, 03:37 PM
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I was about to add that note: always call and check out the schedule at Taos Pueblo; even though it's a MAJOR tourist attraction, and they love to educate people and sell their (beautiful) art, there are times when it's "members only" and closed (for other reasons, too). BTW, someone's almost always doing repair work on the walls, and if you ask, you'll get an informative little lecture about resurfacing, etc. (But then, ask any pro about what they're doing, and you'll get an earfull!)
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Old Sep 11th, 2006, 10:21 PM
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Debi, I was about to post the same thing you did... cue Twilight Zone music...

Chele, you have to take a guided tour to see Taos and Acoma, and they are both very interesting and worth the time.

Lee Ann
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Old Sep 12th, 2006, 04:32 AM
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Taos Pueble is very educational. I would get there early (before the 'tours'), skip the tours completely & spend some time talking to the people that live there...I spent a whole afternoon listening to stories by a wonderful old guy, last time I was there.
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Old Sep 12th, 2006, 07:52 AM
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This is all such great information and I really want to thank everyone for it! I think part of my problem now might be getting my itinerary down to something that is comfortable. I want to stay flexible, but we will be in Albuquerque during Balloon Fiesta (one of the primary reasons for going at this time), so I'm a bit leery of losing an already confirmed hotel reservation. Anyway, if the experts might have a look and let me know where I might be able to re-shuffle it would be greatly appreciated!

Oct 6 - Arrive Albuquerque
Oct 7 - Albuquerque (attend Balloon Fiesta AM, weather permitting)
Oct 8 - Albuquerque (attend Balloon Fiesta AM/PM, weather permitting)
Oct 9 - Albuquerque
Oct 10 - Taking High Road, leisurely drive to Taos
Oct 11 - Drive Enchanted Circle, and head straight through to Santa Fe
Oct 12 - Santa Fe
Oct 13 - Santa Fe
Oct 14 - Drive Turqoise Trail to Albuquerque, Balloon Fiesta PM
Oct 15 - Depart Albuquerque

I had thought to use the extra day in Albuquerque, Oct 9, to possibly visit the outskirts of the city and maybe take in a pueblo. But perhaps I should leave Albuquerque on that Monday, drive to Taos, and spend an extra day in Taos to visit either the Taos Pueblo or another pueblo in the area there? Or should I just not do the Enchanted Circle? (We had thought that perhaps at that time of year it might be quite pretty, but I rarely hear of anyone doing this.) So, ideas? Opinions?

Thanks!
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Old Sep 12th, 2006, 08:50 AM
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Here goes -- I don't know anything about the Fiesta so I don't know how much time to devote to it. One day in ABQ for sightseeing should be enough. Here is what we did there:
Old Town Plaza/San Felipe Church
Albuquerque Museum of Art & History
Balloon Museum
National Atomic Museum
Indian Pueblo Cultural Center
Turquoise Museum
Turquoise/Sandia Crest Trail (to Santa Fe)

You may not know this, but the High Rd is actually Santa Fe to Taos & the Turquoise Trail (US 14) actually connects ABQ & SF. So I would spend one day sightseeing in SF after ABQ & then take the Low Rd to Taos. Sightsee in Taos including the Enchanted Circle (early in the am before any of the other attractions open). Take the High Rd back to SF & do some sightseeing/shopping. Return to ABQ & resume your itinerary. Taos Pueblo is in Taos & San Ildefonso Pueblo is at the end of the High Rd on the way back to SF. Taos is your Northernmost city.

Here is what we did in SF & Taos:

SANTA FE:
SF Plaza
Museum of Spanish Colonial Art
State Capitol
Palace of the Governors/NM History Museum
San Miguel Mission (Oldest Church)
Loretto Chapel/Miraculous Staircase
St Francis of Assisi Mission
Georgia O'Keeffe Museum
Oldest House
Museum of Fine Arts

Taos:
San Francisco de Asis Church
Enchanted Circle
Taos Plaza
Millicent Rogers Museum
La Hacienda de los Martinez

Hope this helps & have fun.
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Old Sep 12th, 2006, 09:22 AM
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Here's what I would do:

Oct 6 - Arrive Albuquerque (any time to explore town on this day?)

Oct 7 - Albuquerque - Balloon Fiesta AM, lunch in Old Town, afternoon at Pueblo Cultural Center & anything else that interests you in ABQ

Oct 8 - Albuquerque - drive to Acoma to tour the pueblo, Balloon Fiesta at night

Oct 9 - Finish doing anything in ABQ that interests you, then take the turquoise trail to Santa Fe. Spend the night exploring the town and stay there.

Oct 10 - explore Santa Fe Plaza, Canyon Road, museums, etc.

Oct 11 - Visit Bandelier, White Rock overlook, and possibly Chimayo. Dinner at Gabriel's on the patio if it's nice. Or if you have time, drive up to the ski area to view the aspen trees & scenery from the top.

Oct 12 - Santa Fe in am, the high road to Taos, visit the plaza area & spend the night

Oct 13 - visit the pueblo, the Rio Grand Gorge bridge, and anything else in Taos you'd like to see

Oct 14 - Do the enchanted circle if you want, or better yet, take the low road back to SF, go a little south and take the Jemez Trail route back towards ABQ. If you're lucky, you might even see balloons once you get closer to ABQ. Then do the Balloon Fiesta at night.

Oct 15 - Depart Albuquerque

In my opinion, the only thing exciting on the turquoise trail is the town of Madrid, which can be toured in a few hours.

As for the Enchanted Circle, Angel Fire & Red River were nice, & the ski area, but the rest was ok. The Jemez Trail was a lot more scenic to me.

And Bandelier is an amazing place. The main trail is an easy walk.

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