Long W/end in San Francisco - Trip Report
Mar 12th, 2009, 01:26 PM
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Long W/end in San Francisco - Trip Report
I had a wonderful long weekend with ds. My departure was supposed to be 7:15 am last Fri from JFK and ds had an 8:30 am flight from BOS. Around Thurs 3 pm, as I exited a subway, there was a VM from the airline telling me my flight was canceled and I was put on a 5 pm flight thru DFW to SFO. Very long, frustrating story short, I ended up flying at 6:30 am from LGA on a small jet (please God, no bird strikes) to BOS and then on the same flight as ds. I was successful in getting a nice man to switch seats so we could sit together.
FRIDAY - We arrived soooo tired (he did an all nighter and I was up since 3am), picked up a rental car and headed straight for the GG bridge. We stopped for a quick, not great lunch at Seven Seas (forgot my Fodor's notes) in Sausalito before continuing on to Muir Woods. Even though it was well into Friday afternoon, we did not hit much traffic anywhere. Muir Woods was amazing and I really enjoyed ds' first time reaction to the things I saw and loved last October. We then continued on to Muir Beach. I was looking for the overlook and forgot that they're not one and the same (should have reread my own trip report). At the beach, we saw steps (for a giant) and we started climbing. Ds was literally hauling me up and after 2/3 of the way, I had enough - this was not the way to the overlook. We headed north on Highway 1 a bit more and there we were at the amazing Muir Overlook. It was quite windy, but the views were clear and magnificent. I just love this spot! We headed back to SF, driving up the GGNRA for those incredible views of the bridge and city. We took the Embarcadero to our hotel on Bush, dropped off the luggage and parked at the Sutter/Stockton garage which has an entrance on Bush. We then checked in to our pristine room at the Orchard Garden Hotel. I opted for a non-refundable rate of $111 which I booked two days before departure. The linens, decor, amenities, etc, were consistent with a 4* hotel. After having someone repair our non-functioning deadbolt, we headed out to Belden Alley a block away. We had dinner at B44 where the Margarita Azteca is excellent - not too sweet, fresh lime - great. Can't remember what we started with (well I had two margaritas), but we both had Paella - his traditional, mine with lobster - both very good.
SATURDAY - We walked to the Ferry Bldg for breakfast, checked out the offerings before making our choices. Ds opted for a plate from Rose Pistola that he inhaled - eggs, turkey sausage, potatoes, toast and I had what I'd never seen before - fried asparagus - really good. He then had his own fried asparagus. We walked around indoors and purchased quite a bit from ScharffenBerger. They gave us samples and a few free bars of ginger/lemon chocolate. And then to top it off, I had the hot chocolate from Boulette's Larder. OMG! I can't remember who on Fodor's said it was the best in the world - thank you; it is the best. DS said it tasted like they melted the ScharffenBerger 82% dark chocolate bar! After such indulgences, it was time to walk!
We headed to the Cupid's Bow sculpture on the Embarcadero and then on toward the cable cars. We stopped at the Jewish Museum of Contemporary Art (not to tour it) so ds could see some of the architecture inside and out of Libeskind. We continued on to Powell and got on the line for the cable cars. After a 20 minute wait, we were aboard and stayed on until Lombard Street. We walked down the crooked part and continued down, then up to Telegraph Hill. This was quite challenging for me (due to some injuries, I have become quite out of shape this winter). Ds found this amusing, but we got up to Coit Tower intact. I still love those murals! We took the elevator up and once again, it was a very clear day - terrific views! We walked through NB stopping at City Lights and buying a few books for ds and dh. They don't make book stores like that anymore. We also stopped at a music store and bought an Ahmad Jamal vinyl from the 50's for my other ds. For lunch, we had pizza at North Beach Pizza on Grant - quite good thin crust. There was a religious store on Grant with a small, but lovely selection of Deruta ceramics. I went in, came close, but said silently, ' cpg, exit this store immediately.' And I did. We continued on Grant through China Town until we reached the gate. It was funny to take a picture of the gate with a kosher restaurant in the background. Our hotel was right next to the gate and it was time for a little rest before dinner. Dinner was at Betelnut and we got there by taxi. We LOVED the food here although I had an issue with the service. I told the waiter not to bring all the dishes together and that's exactly what happened. On their schedule, we would have eaten in 35 minutes. I sent back an entree while we were still on appetizers and that resolved it. Thanks Stu for the recommendation - loved it! We shared shrimp dumplings (sublime), pork short riblits, noodles with shrimp and a sliced rib eye dish. We shared a trio of sorbet to end a great meal.
SUNDAY - This was our big day in GG Park. We grabbed something -gratis- from the hotel for breakfast and drove to the park. We arrived 9:45 and parked easily in the garage of the Science Academy. Becoming a member was the smartest thing I've done in a long time. We entered an hour early at 10, got 12:30 tix for the Planetarium, 3:00 tix for 'Bugs,' made lunch reservations for the Moss Room and headed down to the Aquarium. (Let me just say after climbing on Fri, steep walking on Sat, I needed Advil for pain in my calves and shins. I couldn't bare to wait on any line for lunch) The Aquarium is fantastic and for almost all the time, ds and I were alone at each window. This is worth the price of membership (and it's 100% tax deductible). After 11, when the museum opened, it got crowded and noisy quickly, but we were almost finished. After, we headed up to the roof which was empty and spoke to a docent about the construction - very interesting. Then it was time for the planetarium show and then a nice lunch. After lunch, we visited many of the exhibits on the main floor (the Rain Forest was closed for maintenance and the albino alligator is on medical leave). Our last event was the delightful 25 minute 3D film 'Bugs' narrated by Judi Dench. We were in the museum 5 1/2 delightful hours. Next stop was the Japanese Tea Garden and a quick peak in the De Young lobby (again for ds to look at the design). We drove to Cliff House and south for the views - looked at the beach - no surfers today - and then tried to have a drink at the Cliff House, but no tables to be had. We parked near the hotel, took a very brief rest and walked to Colibri for dinner. It was good, not great. I had scallops and ds a poblano dish. We started with tomales. Walked back to Orchard Garden.
MONDAY - I let ds sleep a bit later and we checked out of the hotel (I would stay here again) and drove off in search of Tartine Bakery. Merci beaucoup to sf7307 and others who recommended this treasure!!! For brunch, we had croques monsieurs - mine with shitake mushrooms and ds' with ham. They were just out of the oven! We also bought some things to go including brownies w/ walnuts for dh. We then took 280 to Palo Alto and I think we were only on the freeway 25 or 30 minutes. We approached Stanford on Palm Drive and parked in the visitor's lot. We walked around for awhile, got passes to use the internet and went up to the top of Hoover Tower - spoke to some lovely undergrads and enjoyed the great views. Unfortunately, the Cantor Center was closed and we also ran out of time and didn't get to the outdoor Rodins. At 3:15 we took a campus tour and it was interesting and led by a vivacious undergrad. We were booked at the Stanford Guest House near the Accelerator bldg. We had a tough time finding it. The hotel public areas are very attractive, the room bare basic and very clean - BUT no cell phone coverage in your room - a fatal flaw for me. My theory was that all the electrons in the accelerator were running loose in our room, but the truth is that the building is clad in aluminum and blocks the cell transmissions - I wouldn't stay here again. Dinner was in La Strada on University Ave (thank you annw for the rec) and the menu and food were wonderful. We shared a beet salad, ds had a pasta dish, I had petrale sole in parchment, a side of roasted artichokes, shared gelato - all were delicious! The menu was not the same old, same old Italian - really good.
TUESDAY - Dropped ds at Stanford at 8:15 and I headed to SFO for my late morning flight. Early evening, ds took Marguerite to CalTrain to Bart to SFO for his redeye flight to Philly with a connection to Providence.
All's well that ends well. Thanks again, all of you, for the great tips on where to go, how to do it, etc. Your suggestions are invaluable. This was a wonderful little trip and a treat to have some one on one with my youngest!
FRIDAY - We arrived soooo tired (he did an all nighter and I was up since 3am), picked up a rental car and headed straight for the GG bridge. We stopped for a quick, not great lunch at Seven Seas (forgot my Fodor's notes) in Sausalito before continuing on to Muir Woods. Even though it was well into Friday afternoon, we did not hit much traffic anywhere. Muir Woods was amazing and I really enjoyed ds' first time reaction to the things I saw and loved last October. We then continued on to Muir Beach. I was looking for the overlook and forgot that they're not one and the same (should have reread my own trip report). At the beach, we saw steps (for a giant) and we started climbing. Ds was literally hauling me up and after 2/3 of the way, I had enough - this was not the way to the overlook. We headed north on Highway 1 a bit more and there we were at the amazing Muir Overlook. It was quite windy, but the views were clear and magnificent. I just love this spot! We headed back to SF, driving up the GGNRA for those incredible views of the bridge and city. We took the Embarcadero to our hotel on Bush, dropped off the luggage and parked at the Sutter/Stockton garage which has an entrance on Bush. We then checked in to our pristine room at the Orchard Garden Hotel. I opted for a non-refundable rate of $111 which I booked two days before departure. The linens, decor, amenities, etc, were consistent with a 4* hotel. After having someone repair our non-functioning deadbolt, we headed out to Belden Alley a block away. We had dinner at B44 where the Margarita Azteca is excellent - not too sweet, fresh lime - great. Can't remember what we started with (well I had two margaritas), but we both had Paella - his traditional, mine with lobster - both very good.
SATURDAY - We walked to the Ferry Bldg for breakfast, checked out the offerings before making our choices. Ds opted for a plate from Rose Pistola that he inhaled - eggs, turkey sausage, potatoes, toast and I had what I'd never seen before - fried asparagus - really good. He then had his own fried asparagus. We walked around indoors and purchased quite a bit from ScharffenBerger. They gave us samples and a few free bars of ginger/lemon chocolate. And then to top it off, I had the hot chocolate from Boulette's Larder. OMG! I can't remember who on Fodor's said it was the best in the world - thank you; it is the best. DS said it tasted like they melted the ScharffenBerger 82% dark chocolate bar! After such indulgences, it was time to walk!
We headed to the Cupid's Bow sculpture on the Embarcadero and then on toward the cable cars. We stopped at the Jewish Museum of Contemporary Art (not to tour it) so ds could see some of the architecture inside and out of Libeskind. We continued on to Powell and got on the line for the cable cars. After a 20 minute wait, we were aboard and stayed on until Lombard Street. We walked down the crooked part and continued down, then up to Telegraph Hill. This was quite challenging for me (due to some injuries, I have become quite out of shape this winter). Ds found this amusing, but we got up to Coit Tower intact. I still love those murals! We took the elevator up and once again, it was a very clear day - terrific views! We walked through NB stopping at City Lights and buying a few books for ds and dh. They don't make book stores like that anymore. We also stopped at a music store and bought an Ahmad Jamal vinyl from the 50's for my other ds. For lunch, we had pizza at North Beach Pizza on Grant - quite good thin crust. There was a religious store on Grant with a small, but lovely selection of Deruta ceramics. I went in, came close, but said silently, ' cpg, exit this store immediately.' And I did. We continued on Grant through China Town until we reached the gate. It was funny to take a picture of the gate with a kosher restaurant in the background. Our hotel was right next to the gate and it was time for a little rest before dinner. Dinner was at Betelnut and we got there by taxi. We LOVED the food here although I had an issue with the service. I told the waiter not to bring all the dishes together and that's exactly what happened. On their schedule, we would have eaten in 35 minutes. I sent back an entree while we were still on appetizers and that resolved it. Thanks Stu for the recommendation - loved it! We shared shrimp dumplings (sublime), pork short riblits, noodles with shrimp and a sliced rib eye dish. We shared a trio of sorbet to end a great meal.
SUNDAY - This was our big day in GG Park. We grabbed something -gratis- from the hotel for breakfast and drove to the park. We arrived 9:45 and parked easily in the garage of the Science Academy. Becoming a member was the smartest thing I've done in a long time. We entered an hour early at 10, got 12:30 tix for the Planetarium, 3:00 tix for 'Bugs,' made lunch reservations for the Moss Room and headed down to the Aquarium. (Let me just say after climbing on Fri, steep walking on Sat, I needed Advil for pain in my calves and shins. I couldn't bare to wait on any line for lunch) The Aquarium is fantastic and for almost all the time, ds and I were alone at each window. This is worth the price of membership (and it's 100% tax deductible). After 11, when the museum opened, it got crowded and noisy quickly, but we were almost finished. After, we headed up to the roof which was empty and spoke to a docent about the construction - very interesting. Then it was time for the planetarium show and then a nice lunch. After lunch, we visited many of the exhibits on the main floor (the Rain Forest was closed for maintenance and the albino alligator is on medical leave). Our last event was the delightful 25 minute 3D film 'Bugs' narrated by Judi Dench. We were in the museum 5 1/2 delightful hours. Next stop was the Japanese Tea Garden and a quick peak in the De Young lobby (again for ds to look at the design). We drove to Cliff House and south for the views - looked at the beach - no surfers today - and then tried to have a drink at the Cliff House, but no tables to be had. We parked near the hotel, took a very brief rest and walked to Colibri for dinner. It was good, not great. I had scallops and ds a poblano dish. We started with tomales. Walked back to Orchard Garden.
MONDAY - I let ds sleep a bit later and we checked out of the hotel (I would stay here again) and drove off in search of Tartine Bakery. Merci beaucoup to sf7307 and others who recommended this treasure!!! For brunch, we had croques monsieurs - mine with shitake mushrooms and ds' with ham. They were just out of the oven! We also bought some things to go including brownies w/ walnuts for dh. We then took 280 to Palo Alto and I think we were only on the freeway 25 or 30 minutes. We approached Stanford on Palm Drive and parked in the visitor's lot. We walked around for awhile, got passes to use the internet and went up to the top of Hoover Tower - spoke to some lovely undergrads and enjoyed the great views. Unfortunately, the Cantor Center was closed and we also ran out of time and didn't get to the outdoor Rodins. At 3:15 we took a campus tour and it was interesting and led by a vivacious undergrad. We were booked at the Stanford Guest House near the Accelerator bldg. We had a tough time finding it. The hotel public areas are very attractive, the room bare basic and very clean - BUT no cell phone coverage in your room - a fatal flaw for me. My theory was that all the electrons in the accelerator were running loose in our room, but the truth is that the building is clad in aluminum and blocks the cell transmissions - I wouldn't stay here again. Dinner was in La Strada on University Ave (thank you annw for the rec) and the menu and food were wonderful. We shared a beet salad, ds had a pasta dish, I had petrale sole in parchment, a side of roasted artichokes, shared gelato - all were delicious! The menu was not the same old, same old Italian - really good.
TUESDAY - Dropped ds at Stanford at 8:15 and I headed to SFO for my late morning flight. Early evening, ds took Marguerite to CalTrain to Bart to SFO for his redeye flight to Philly with a connection to Providence.
All's well that ends well. Thanks again, all of you, for the great tips on where to go, how to do it, etc. Your suggestions are invaluable. This was a wonderful little trip and a treat to have some one on one with my youngest!
Mar 12th, 2009, 01:55 PM
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Great report CPW. Glad you loved Tartine. We also enjoy Betelnut and have taken out-of-towners there. Colibri is not high on my list.
I gather the Marguerite to CalTrain to BART to SFO directions worked?
So when does DS have to decide?
I gather the Marguerite to CalTrain to BART to SFO directions worked?
So when does DS have to decide?
Mar 12th, 2009, 02:09 PM
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sf - Tartine is a find! How did it find its way to that neighborhood? Didn't see Bi-Rite.
Directions worked well. I've barely spoken to him since we're back. I think it went very well. He has until the Ides of April to decide.
Directions worked well. I've barely spoken to him since we're back. I think it went very well. He has until the Ides of April to decide.
Mar 12th, 2009, 04:44 PM
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sab - I guess my question was kind of silly. Not being a local, I was wondering how a french cafe ended up in a latino neighborhood - and as I write this, I realize how the question doesn't really make sense. Everything is context - which a visitor doesn't always possess.
Mar 13th, 2009, 07:18 AM
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cpg, thanks for the great trip report!!! I hadn't read about the hot chocolate before 
Can I ask you how long is the walk to the Ferry Bldg (from Orchard Garden)?
Also, I was worried about parking near GG Park (we want to visit deYoung, tea garden and AIDS memorial grove area)... you parked at the Science Academy? Do you recollect where that is? thanks cpg!
carol
Can I ask you how long is the walk to the Ferry Bldg (from Orchard Garden)?
Also, I was worried about parking near GG Park (we want to visit deYoung, tea garden and AIDS memorial grove area)... you parked at the Science Academy? Do you recollect where that is? thanks cpg!
carol
Mar 13th, 2009, 07:48 AM
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cpg...
Sounds like you did it up right.
Love NB Pizza. Like the Pier 39 location a bit better only for the view.
Was the place in NoBeach Biordi's? Mrs Kal has picked up some nice pieces there.
sf...we'll be at Epic tomorrow night. Menu looks PDG and all reviews decent.
Trying out a new one (opened maybe a month ago?)on Sunday night <film at 11>. Don't want to say which one in case someone has been and didn't like it.
CM,
I'd estimate a brisk 10-15 min walk to the FB. But it's a nice walk.
A bit of an uphill grade on your way back tho.
Use it as a "wandering around tour" of SF. Walk up to Un Sq then down the alley for some window shopping and maybe over to Market St?
Sounds like you did it up right.
Love NB Pizza. Like the Pier 39 location a bit better only for the view.
Was the place in NoBeach Biordi's? Mrs Kal has picked up some nice pieces there.
sf...we'll be at Epic tomorrow night. Menu looks PDG and all reviews decent.
Trying out a new one (opened maybe a month ago?)on Sunday night <film at 11>. Don't want to say which one in case someone has been and didn't like it.
CM,
I'd estimate a brisk 10-15 min walk to the FB. But it's a nice walk.
A bit of an uphill grade on your way back tho.
Use it as a "wandering around tour" of SF. Walk up to Un Sq then down the alley for some window shopping and maybe over to Market St?
Mar 13th, 2009, 11:19 AM
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CarolM - I bought a map of the park on my last visit, but the link below should help. It's a 5+ minute walk from the Sci Academy to De Young or the Tea Garden. There is free parking on certain streets in the park, but it is for four hours max; I got a $50 ticket last October. If you go before the Sci Academy opens, it will be easy to park in their garage. Kal is right on estimate of walk to FB from Orchard Garden - very easy.
http://www.parks.sfgov.org/wcm_recpark/GGP/GGPMap.pdf
http://www.parks.sfgov.org/wcm_recpark/GGP/GGPMap.pdf
Mar 13th, 2009, 11:25 AM
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sf...took out a 2nd on my house. Or wait...would it be a first now?
I'll save some $$$ tho because after this bout with stomach flu, wine really isn't doing it for me right now.
cpg...can I tell Mrs Kal that I was right for once? \
/
I'll save some $$$ tho because after this bout with stomach flu, wine really isn't doing it for me right now.
cpg...can I tell Mrs Kal that I was right for once? \
/
Mar 13th, 2009, 11:26 AM
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Kal - I think Biordi's is on Columbus (saw it last Oct). This store was predominantly a religious store with some ceramics. It was on Grant on the same side as NB pizza but a bit south.
Mar 13th, 2009, 01:23 PM
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Andrew, no, Tartine Bakery is in the Mission District - 18th and Guerrero. Worth the trip, though.
http://www.tartinebakery.com/
http://www.tartinebakery.com/
