After four days and nights, I find it easy to include Chicago us one of the world’s great cities. Whether that is measured in gleaming architecture, old commercialism, industrial grime, cultural thrills, unique neighborhoods, or historic sites. There were fascinating things to see at every turn. I can’t believe it took me so long to get here.

Wed, Oct 22

I will kick off my rundown on the day I landed at Midway. My mission was to see a lot of theatre and eat a lot of great food. I walked off my indulgences, scouring neighborhoods for evidence of the Chicago vibe. I was not inclined to visit the most popular tourist sites, no matter how worthy.

If Chicago has a fan club, I am happy to propose myself as Honorary President and Cheerleader. Minus the short skirt.

I rented a car for my trip. From Midway Airport, I made a beeline for La Chaparrita in Little Village for their tacos de tripa and longaniza. I also got an alfalfa auga fresca to drink.




Holy Molé, right off the bat I had an amazing meal it would not be easy to find elsewhere in the US. The tripa (intestines) was ordered bien dorado, and came out as super-rich and soft. The filling was about triple the amount you’d expect for a small tortilla, so this is not a takeaway proposition. The longaniza (sausage) was ultra crispy and well-spiced. I was in heaven.


I then scoured the Bridgeport neighborhood. So many interesting juxtapositions with little delis and pubs interspersed with residential and semi-industrial, plus a scattering of Chinese signs denoting this as Chicago’s second Chinatown. It’s a bit of a hodgepodge, but already I see Old Chicago in the shadows of Comiskey Park, home of the White Sox.




In truth the old stadium was torn down years ago, replaced by a modern structure. Some Chicagoans still call it by the old name since the new name is transitory, with three sponsored iterations since construction. 'Guaranteed Rate Field' does not have the same ring to it.

I then went on to Pleasant House Pub for a serious take on English pub food. Small menu that features superb renditions of a scotch egg and a steak and ale pie.






The sauce for the pie is heavenly, and the egg had a nice gooey yolk and crusty golden exterior. This is the platonic ideal for these classics.

My last stop of the day was the Goodman Theatre to see a new musical, Revolution(s), by Tom Morello of Rage Against the Machine. This was a disappointment. I read the Sun-Times review after I saw the show, and I agreed with all the flaws the article pointed out.

Before that, my walk through downtown thrilled me with one architectural marvel after another. I was in awe.














I stayed at an Air B and B in the Edgewater neighborhood. For the price of a modest hotel downtown, it was a lavish 1 bedroom with an extensive living/dining area that anyone would be jealous of. CTA stop and ample parking right nearby.




To be continued…..

Chicken Vesuvio Sandwich. Chicken cooked in white wine, garlic, and olive oil, smothered in peas. A Chicago original from Punky's Pizza and Pasta. In the Bridgeport neighborhood.

along for the ride. Your trip sounds off the beaten tourist path--interesting! I'm happy to hear you had a good time!

Thu, Oct 23

I walked form my lodging through the Andersonville neighborhood. Although this is part of Chicago, it would be everyone's dream of what Small Town America should look like. Leafy green streets with handsome architecture and a main drag filled with charming and humming independent businesses. Lots of activity. In addition, two cultural institutions anchor each end of Clark Street. One is the Swedish American Museum and the other is The Understudy, a well-loved theatre bookstore and café.

Another thing I couldn't help notice: an open, loving embrace of inclusivity, from LGBTQ support to this neighborhood's ties to immigrants, past and present.

First, a couple of pics of the neighborhood's residential section:







Then onto Clark Street, the main drag:











The Swedish American Museum is small but packs a punch. It's all about the immigrant experience in Chicago and is delightfully educational with well-executed displays:




Once at the museum, I stumbled into an event. Two Swedish filmmakers were there to talk about their inclusion in the Chicago Film Festival. It was a lunch/discussion. The two of them plus about six of us gathered at a table for about 90 minutes. It was fascinating and gave me even more insight.

One thing I feel important to mention: the folks here and everyone I met in Chicago were outspoken and strident about their disgust for what they call The Imperial Presidency. It's not my opinion, just a fact. I have never seen this so generalized and from complete strangers. They wore their hearts on their sleeves and they did not hold back. I've never experienced anything quite like it.

Loyola University

I then went on to the campus of Loyola University. It sits right on the shore of Lake Michigan and the historic buildings present an impressive and harmonious assemblage:










Now it was time for dinner before going to the theatre. I had my sights on Birreria Zaragoza for the small bone-in goat plate. I was so looking forward to this, and it did not disappoint. A perfect plate of food:











After Zaragoza, I was going to be difficult to impress. Only moments, later, though, I spied the ka'ak at Ragadan. Ka'ak is a bread from Jordan, ideal for making sandwiches. I got the eggplant ka'ak, though I think any of the fillings would be amazing on this bread. One of the great sandwich breads of the world:




The neighborhood has some great features including a statue of a Color Wheel and a brightly-lit barber shop:







At Raven Theatre, I saw four brilliant actors play out an African-American ghost story filled with raucous humor, strong emotions, and penetrating ideas. One hallmark of Chicago theatre is the large number of Storefront theatres, stages converted from stores and industrial spaces, wedged into the many neighborhoods of Chicago.

Raven Theatre:




Across the Street from the Theatre:



To be continued....

The trip got cut down from 7 nights in Chicago to 4, so I had to really hone in on my priorities. I would have done the architectural boat tour and the Arts Institute. But I had to cut out somethings!

Thanks shelemm for sharing your first time visit to Chicago. I love reading about discoveries through travel! I was in my mid 30s before seeing Chicago and while I have been to Chicago numerous times since, I am always doing things in the Loop (there’s plenty to discover just there), so I enjoyed reading about your travels in other parts of the city.

This is awesome! Wonderful to read about the less well-known areas. The ka'ak was a new and interesting bread. Nice TR, shelemm!

Fri, Oct 24

This is the day I set aside to visit Oak Park, where Frank Lloyd Wright had his home and studio.

There are at least a dozen homes here that he designed. Many other houses were designed by contemporaries of Wright including George Maher, E.E. Roberts, William Drummond, and John van Bergen. I was lucky enough to meet up with a woman who lives in Oak Park and could spend time with me walking the neighborhood. She lives in a home designed by E.E. Roberts, and it seems that everyone who lives here is by default a maven of Architecture. Me, I was green and had a lot to learn.

On our walk, we met up with another woman by chance who had even more juicy gossip about the homes and their history. I got the feeling I was surrounded by would-be tour guides and docents at every turn.

Oak Park Homes










Inside the Frank Lloyd Wright Home and Studio










Oak Park Post Office, Library, and Unity Temple:










Not far from Oak Park, Freddy's is an Italian Market with indoor seating

Pictured are the timballo di pasta and eggplant funghetto, specialties I've never even heard of before.

A PIZZA DETOUR

My plan for visiting Oak Park included pizza from Milly's Pizza in the Pan. Online ordering only. They open the ordering at precisely 8am. I knew this, but I was driving and got distracted. I pulled over at 8:12am to order. Too late!! They were sold out for the day.

My top alternative was Kim's Uncle Pizza. A 30 minute drive west from Oak Park. Both places put out a limited number of pizzas each day. They each only have one tiny oven.

Ordering from Kim's is by phone only. Phone line (singular) is opened at 3pm. First pizza comes out of the oven at 4pm. You tell them your order and the time you want it. It took 65 calls to get through. Thank goodness for speed dial.

Most visitors to Chicago know only about Deep Dish. It may surprise you to know that many Chicagoans think deep dish is a waste of calories. The other styles of pizza include Chicago thin crust, tavern style, and pan pizza. Kim's Uncle is Chicago thin crust. Thin, crackery crust, no cornicione. Toppings go all the way to the edge, and the pie is cut into squares:






For me, it's all about the toppings. The key was getting the sausage and banana peppers. If all you do is order a cheese pizza, you are wasting your time. It was delicious in a fascinating, compelling way.

That evening, I had tickets to the Edge Theatre, a short walk from my lodging. The production was by Babes with Blades Theatre Company. They specialize in creating their own work that features stage combat.

The play was The Mark, about a dystopian society where the military rules everything and they pit their recruits against each other in fights. True to their name, there were a lot of babes and a lot of blades. The final scene was one big knife fight. I sat in the front row next to a precocious child who turned to me saying "I guess you're not afraid of getting spattered with stage blood."

Babes with Blades (and child):

Many glimpses of Old Chicago on the way back form Oak Park. These entities are still viable and functioning for their original purpose:

In the neighborhood of the Edge Theatre. A food pantry and a Buddhist temple.

Just wow, shelemm! The Oak Park homes have an Asian aspect I hadn't noticed before.

Thanks. My 4 days were filled with discovery and wonder. I could see myself living there. And I am no longer surprised at the fierce loyalty folks from Chicago have for their hometown.

I learned that Wright was in fact enamored of Asian art and has many items in his home that reflect this aspect of design and living.

Half my trip was supposed to be in the Loop. But when my plans got cut down to size, I realized I needed to pursue my two big quests, ultra-local food and storefront theatre. More to come!

What an enjoyable TR. Looking forward to more, thanks!

Sat, Oct 25

For my last full day in Chicago I had tickets to see both a matinee and evening performances. So I got to an early morning start to see a place that is very, very different to what I have back home: The Bohemian National Cemetery. It was extraordinarily beautiful, touching, and yet another nod to Chicago's immigrant past. On top of that, an unusual and even humorous homage to another Chicago institution, the Cubs.

Met a friend for lunch in Chinatown. Took his suggestion and zeroed in on the Dan Dan Mian form Szechuan Bistro, located in a basement food court. My friend is a former chef, so I trusted he knew what he was talking about.







Although I've had dan dan mian many times before, this was like eating it for the first time. So much complexity in a familiar bowl of noodles. I was stunned. That evening I shared a meal with a Chinese woman in another part of town. She had eaten at Szechuan Bistro just the day before and said it was her fave. Confirmed.

Still in Chinatown, I was drawn to this community recreational facility with sports leagues, trophy cases, and a photo exhibit by Chinese -American youth. From what I could gather, benefactor Leonard Louie made his money from parking facilities in Chinatown.







On to my matiness performance. Timeline Theatre's Hundreds and Hundreds of Stars, written by and starring Sandra Delgado, about a mother going through deportation proceedings. It was performed at Lookingglass Theatre, located at the Historic Water Works Building of Chicago. Yet another impressive architectural marvel.






After the show and a walk around this area of downtown, I had enough time for dinner before my evening performance.

In my quest for exciting food experiences, I had my final dinner at Thattu, a Keralan restaurant. Kerala is a small state of India near the Southern tip. There are three Keralan restaurants in Chicago, and none just about anywhere else in the US. I had the pleasure of sharing my meal with a total stranger while sitting at the bar. We ordered as a unit in order to try more dishes. It's the only place I ate in Chicago where you need reservations for a table. The star here is the fish pollichathu, fish smothered in a spicy paste and wrapped in a banana leaf.



This was a glorious plate of food served with tamarind rice and shredded cabbage. Both made with a lot of care and a lot of ghee. Everything else we had was terrific.

I ended the evening going to the tiny Trap Door Theatre. As you see, it is at the end of a pedestrian-only alley.



They specialize in mostly wild Eastern European plays, but this was a performance of an American classic that rarely gets produced: Dutchman, a 1964 one act play by Leroi Jones who changed his name to Amiri Baraka. I read it in college, and I've heard about it all my life. But now was finally my chance to see it. The show, and the theatre, did not disappoint. it was hard-hitting and fun. A tricky combination of delight and gripping drama. This kind of experience was exactly the reason I came to Chicago.








To be continued......

Sun Oct 26

Last half day in Chicago.

While at the Leonard Louie Field House in Chinatown, I asked a guy there about great views of the Chicago skyline. He was enthusiastic about the views from Adler Planetarium, so I took his suggestion.

Before that, I headed to the Romanian Kosher Sausage Co to try their chopped liver and salami. This place is as Old School (or Old Testament ) as it gets:



My chef friend made another suggestion, one that really surprised me. He told me to go to the Loaf Lounge, a bakery, and get their breakfast sandwich. I was a bit skeptical, but at this point I knew to trust him. They make their own muffin and their own sausage for this sandwich:



Banish the thought of an egg mcmuffin. This was world class eating. Worth a few exclamation points. I don't really care about receiving blanket recommendations. But when I get a specific recommendation like this, it's like striking it rich.

Now onto the Adler Planetarium.



There was a thoughtful statue/exhibit about Astronaut Jim Lovell in the lobby:



And finally I got the view I was looking for.




Thanks for tagging along and reading until the end. I am so grateful for the four days and nights I had in Chicago. Yes, one of the great cities of the world.

Here is a link to my photo album on Flickr. Some of the photos here are not in the album, but some unique ones are:

https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjCyYJ8