Governator

I decided to take JJP's advice from another post, and spend my whole vacation in Chicago. (As opposed to pairing it with a side trip into the hinterland). I was partially motivated by my desire to keep costs down.

This is our first time going to Chicago. We're going the first week of April. Coming from NYC. I'm hoping I can keep me and my wife busy for almost 7 days without a car, without spending a fortune.

Please give me some cost saving tips.
- good , < $10/pp (not fast food),restaurants
- subway passes
- low cost or free entertainment
- museums w/'suggested' admissions
- should I get the Chicago Card?

I love interesting neighborhoods, art museums, and architecture. Good deals on shopping, shows etc.

Can I see Chicago without a car, or should I spring for a rental (can probably get a good price on PL , but oh that parking.)

Thanks in advance, looking forward to enjoying your city.

bethke14

Transportation: Get the 7 day CTA pass for $20. This is a fantastic deal, and will allow you unlimited rides on the El/Subway and buses. (Details here:http://www.transitchicago.com/maps/fares.html) Parking is a PAIN! I think you can get most places on public transportation, and possibly a cab.

Food: I love Corner Bakery, but it's a chain (I don't know if this bothers you) and can be great for breakfast or lunch for less than $10. These are all over the city. I also really like Big Bowl, where you can get dinner for $15 a person (excluding alcohol.) It's very fresh Asian cuisine - I prefer the one on Rush, and is very filling - http://www.bigbowl.com/. If you get deep dish pizza, you'll be able to eat if for more than one night - does your hotel have a fridge? I prefer Giordano's.

I think that the neighborhoods on Devon are very interesting, and have a lot of ethnic bakeries where you can get really fantastic lunch/snacks/treats. Lincoln park has cafes/bakeries and is a gorgeous neighborhood and urban campus(DePaul.)

Many Chicago museums have a "free" day where there is no admission. These days are a little more crowded, it can be worth it.

For free stuff, I'd also check out what the local universities are offering - sometimes they have free speakers or events that are open to the public. Try DePaul, U of Chicago, Loyola. Or possibly the Library. Also, the Cultural Center is free and very interesting, and often has interesting temporary exhibits

I would suggest purchasing the Unofficial Guide to Chicago - it details a lot of low cost options, and I think has a listing of the days museums are free.

That's it for now, I'll add more if I think if it!

richbutnot

The Go Chicago Card is on sale 15% off until Thursday. Looks like a good deal if you're going to be there a week.

http://www.gocardusa.com/Merchant2/m...mvc?City=GoCHI

Governator

I'm evaluating the GO card. Seems worth it for the first 2 days , at least.

Itinerary
thur
arrival 12:00 PM
art inst 5-8 pm free
total 0

fri
north tour 10:00-12:00 23
field museum 2:00-5:00 19
adler planetarium 6- 10pm 20
total 62

sat
south tour 12:00-2:00 23
aquarium 3:00-6 27
hancock till 11 pm 11
total 61

sun
sears 12
boat 12
science 11

total 35

mon

tues
contemp museum free

bethke14

Instead of paying to go to the top of the Hancock, I'd suggest the Signature Lounge - very pricey, but the view is gorgeous, and it's on the 95th (?) floor. Perhaps split a dessert? Overall, it will be cheaper than paying 2 fees. That way, if you want to use the card, do the Sears Tower on Saturday and the Hancock for dessert on Sunday. Web site is here: http://www.signatureroom.com/lounge/default.cfm?PID=15

richbutnot

I believe the Go Card is only good until 5:30 pm at Hancock.

Retired_teacher

If you haven't discovered this resource yet, go to www.metromix.chicagotribune.com for a wealth of information on museums, restaurants, theater, etc.

Two of my favorite 'freebies' include the National Museum of Mexican Art in Chicago's Pilsen neighborhood and Lincoln Park Zoo along the lakeshore. The Chicago Cultural Center (free building tours on W,F,Sat 1:15 p.m.) hosts the Chicago Office of Tourism Visitor Information Center. Other nearby points of interest include the Loyola University Museum of Art (suggested admission fee $5-$6, free on Tues.), the Peace Museum (suggested donation $5), and the Newberry Library. A good nearby restaurant, Cafe Iberico (North LaSalle) features Spanish tappas at very reasonable prices.

JJ5

Hi, Governator, you will have fun.

I think there are some Chicago experts that have written wonderful threads in the past on Fodors. Better than mine. Use the search feature here to do a search on, for instance: "Chicago hotel" or "Chicago shopping" or "Chicago pizza" or what ever you have on your mind that requires an inkling for detail. Then print out the walks or locations, whatever, because some of them are priceless and have application to items you would hardly notice in a swirl to get all these places "done".

I doubt the Adler will keep you that long. And you will find that as structured as you have planned your days, you will want to do some wanderings once you see what's happening "where you happen to be at the moment." Do enjoy that without rushing to keep the basic major plan pristine.

For instance, as you walk down Michigan Ave. going North from the LOOP or State St/Madison Avenue area- you will pass buildings and bridge (over the Chicago River that runs BACKWARDS- totally opposite of the direction nature and the topography dictated)- after the river going North you will see Swissotel way over to your Right beyond the Hyatt etc. That juts out INTO the lake on a landfill. If you go into its work-out room or upstairs on top you can see the entire curve of the lake South almost all the way to IN on a clear day and to Hyde Park on most days. This is different.

Also look at the buildings you pass getting to the North Michigan Ave. shopping / Water Tower etc.- just North of the bridge. One of them will have outside stones places on the lowest levels in the walls from many, many major edifices and ancient structures. For instance there will be a stone from the Acropolis, one from the Berlin Wall, etc. etc. They are labeled.

One thing more, because I can tell you are a detail person, you may enjoy and get immense background/interest out of a couple of great DVD's that many venues and libraries may have to buy or rent. Before you go, if you watch this you will have immense context. Because if you and your wife, like most tourists or visitors, are "used" to Eastern Coast or Western Coast USA mega-cities you will want to know this history and unique formation in another era- make Chicago supremely "different". And wonderful!

"Chicago, City of the Century" - PBS VHS or DVD formatted. Available at almost any public library on request if not on the shelf. Also for sale on Amazon or anywhere.

Chicago IS to this day, the fastest growing city from inception to its size in the history of the world. Plus some extremely wealthy and king like robber barons who ruled their world like few before or after, as far as the $$$, Power, and LAW all coming together under their control unilaterally and at the same time- BOUGHT the state's lakefront, nearly all privately- and most GAVE it to the public and protected it for public use only. You will understand so much then about WHY the Buckingham Fountain is where it is, and WHY Field Museum faces as it does etc. etc. etc. AND why the best architects in the world use Chicago as the prime lessons etc.

Also we were burned to the ground and also had some other resources not found anywhere.

The other DVD- secondary but also good is the story of the I & M Canal which because of Joliet's explorations and some Native American knowledge- and 1000s of Irish immigrants back breaking and life giving labor that broke through the limestone quarry (pure rock with hand pikes) for miles and miles- connected the Great Lakes to the Mississippi River Basin and the Gulf of Mexico. This ended up eventually causing all goods to flow to Chicago, all sewage to flow AWAY from Lake Michigan to damns, sewage plants, and DEEP TUNNEL. It made this all happen. We are actually one of the few cities that have been "green" when there was no green. Now we have to get Detroit and Milwaukee NOT to overflow into Lake Michigan as well.

Sorry, to give you a history lesson, and of course there is so much more- but you just seem like such a detail person who would appreciate it- so I thought I would give you a real background on why this happened, and why here on what the Native Americans called the "Stinking Onion Marsh".

You are coming at a time of great change, as many of our personal 150 year old icons are disappearing. The building with the big clocks on State/Madison was Marshal Field's. Chicagoans meet under the clock there. The building South of that on State is was Carson's for years and years. Look at the trim on that building. It is/was the precursor for iron work etc.

Chicago Cultural Center used to be the public library when I was a child. That is worth popping into for updates on your days. Harold Washington Public Library in the Loop too, very near to this- is worth going up the escalators and viewing the marble- floor to floor it gets better and better. The top is an large atrium type reading room, great for a rest and chat etc.

Food can be found at all levels of service and $$$. A quite place if you are sick of bustle is Trattoria #10- 10 N. Dearborn. I go down there and have a glass of wine or some Butternut squash ravioli and it is better for lunch than dinner, IMHO. Quite, a break, elegant.

Many of the older hotels are worth walking into to view the lobbies. Many were built in times of perfect plaster cove moldings etc. and in every case there was a man's life given for each floor of every skyscrapper- more for the Sears and some others, actually. I knew a lot of these men.

Enjoy the city that still has many blue collar folk living in the neighborhoods today. One in which most people still know many, if not all, of their neighbors.

LLindaC

Food Life in the Water Tower is NOT fast food. It's good food fast. I personally like the thai station where they make pad thai fresh and add whatever you ask. Same for the stirfry station.Every time we go to Chicago as a family, we have several meals here, because everyone can have what they want at a good price.
http://centerstage.net/restaurants/foodlife.html
Some of the Greek restaurants around Greek town were very reasobnable, as are many ethnic restaurants. One little "secret" we discovered was Trattoria #10, a rather upscale restaurant normally, has a $10 happy hour where they put a very nice spread on the bar. Nice cozy bar, too!

msjames

Not sure what you will see on your "north tour" and "south tour", but I recommend an architectural tour of the loop and surrounding area. Also, if you're going to the top of the Hancock one day, you may want to skip the Sears Tower, because while it's technically taller, it's not all that different.

mcmckissic1

Hi there LLindaC, can you bring the kids to Tratorria #10 or just for adults?? Thanks.

LLindaC

Hmmmm....I doubt that they would allow kids since it's in the bar- I guess you'll have to ask them.

Governator

JJ5,

I'm impressed , you really know a lot about Chicago. I love reading the kind of detailed information you gave. When I wander around a city I like to know what I'm looking at. I'll print it and take it with me.


Regarding the museums,planetarium, aquarium etc. Which of these are considered world class and shouldn't be missed.

For example , in NYC, the aquarium , while pretty good , is no where near as good as the world class Monterey,CA aquarium and therefore if someone asked me I would say it could be skipped. However no one should miss the Met Museum of Art or the MOMA.



Thanks.

JJ5

I'm a provincial and not the best judge of that but this is true.

Art Institute- world class and if you have ANY interest in the Impressionist prime years- it is incomparable.

Shedd- better than Monterey or Genoa, Italy's by far. Also vintage construction with all the detail that was done, just because. Notice the genus names in the marble. Soundings is a restaurant here that is not budget, but at lunch it is reasonable for the views and the white tablecloth gentile feel.

Field- good is some categories- not as good in others. Honestly I do think it is better than National Nat. History in D.C. myself. But in many ways here you have to dig in yourself and search all the small rooms. This is not interactive or commercially related to modern tech/marketing ploys re kids (coal mines, submarines etc.) in the sense that Mus. of Sc. & Ind. on the lake South near Hyde Park is- but if you are a academic minded person or like archeology or anthropology detail study- you will love it. Don't miss the Egyptians.

Planetarium doesn't send me 1/2 as much as the above, and is not so huge nor time consuming to process, IMHO. We went to the one in NYC and it is similar.

Comparing the really huge places to me often isn't fair, as their styles and ages- plus their context can often be different. I just can't compare Modern Art to Renaissance Art. Some can. It's very personally relative.

Chicago Historical Society just reopened and I have not yet been. I would LOVE that, seeing Riverview etc. but I doubt that tourists like it much at all. The Arch. tour by river is tops- but I doubt if it is in operation in April.

Chicago is a so much more than downtown and I know much more about Chicago neighborhoods than I know about downtown Chicago. But I DO know a lot about downtown Chicago on a budget.

Trattoria #10 bar idea for $10 is great. I took a 12 year old there for lunch, but never was near the bar, to tell you the truth.

Your wife might like Wicked if you can get tickets this late. Ford Theatre for the Performing Arts (used to be the old Oriental and it is smashing too.) This is NOT cheap.

Golden Budhha is close to the theatres, right in the same area as Trattoria #10- google the address. THAT is super cheap and has a buffet luncheon that is fabulous in scope and as a "buy".

There's a real dive bar off of LaSalle near the River called Monk's- that also had hamburgers, entrees for "out of downtown" prices. Most of the restaurants in the hotels will be $20 to $30 an entree, if not more.

www.metromix.com does help with cost level estimations.

The first time I truly remember downtown, it was 1950- so I do know some of the buildings' or storefronts' histories.

exiledprincess

Governator, I'm going to throw in my 2 pennies as well here.

First, are you sure that you want to get the GoChicago card for your entire stay? Why not get it for only a couple of days and do the other items on their free days. Keep in mind that the GoChicago card will only pay the general admission at the various museums - and it's those special exhibits which really are the stars. So take a look at the museums websites and see which days are free/reduced general admission (as you'll have to pay extra for the special exhibits anyway). Hint: They won't be on a weekend.

Secondly, the <$10/pp dining budget will be a little hard to meet, especially at dinner time, when you take into account beverage, tax and tip. So the dinner options may go over a tad...But I'm going to mention several different places where you can save a few $$, so you can even out in the long run. OK with you?

Downtown:
Italian Beef: Mr. Beef on Orleans
Chicago-style Hot Dogs (and Italian Beef as well but, IMHO, Mr. Beef's is better): Portillo's on Ontario
Burgers: Boston Blackies on Grand
Cajun/Creole: Get the gumbo from Heaven on Seven (the original location is at 111 N. Wabash in the Garland Building)
Seafood: McCormick and Schmick's on N. Rush (second location on Wacker) have "Blue Plate" specials at lunch*; on Wednesday and Friday evenings, Duke of Perth on N. Clark (in Lincoln Park) has all-you-can-eat fish n'chips for just less than $10 (drinks would be extra, though).
*McCormick and Schmick's also has the best bar menu - $1.95 (with a 2 drink minimum)

In the neighborhoods (for dinner), look at Chicago Pizza and Oven Grinder on N. Clark (will go slightly over your budget). For Thai (excellent pad thai), recommend Joy's Noodles and Rice (1.5 blocks north of Belmont). For Italian, try LaTavernetta on N. Broadway (just south of Briar).

And if you wanted a little splurge after scrimping and saving on all the other meals, for steak, try Tango Sur on N. Southport just north of the Music Box Theatre. You can get a very good steak dinner, including appetizer and/or dessert (have the flan) for about $30-35/pp there. BYOB, and no reservations but take your cell phone, leave your number and go next door to Cullen's (an Irish bar) for a drink - they'll call you.

Trattoria No. 10 mentioned above has their bar menu for $12.95 - but you have a 2 drink minimum as well - check their website for details.

Andy's Jazz Club has the "Jazz at Noon" series, where there is no cover for the jazz entertainment and they serve burgers, salads, pizza and the like. You can't beat that price for entertainment, now, can you?

Why not do brunch instead of lunch a couple of days? Orange on Harrison is a little pricier, but very good - or Yolk on S. Michigan Avenue (especially convenient if you are going to Museum Campus - for the Field, Shedd or Adler). As mentioned above, there are Corner Bakeries all around town and even one in the Field Museum - right beside where Sue rests on the main floor.

If you go to Metromix online, you can see all the bar specials and the like for the dates you are here.

By the way, you don't need to go to both the Sears Tower and the John Hancock Building - the JHB, IMHO, has the better view - and it's closer to the other attractions as well.

Free attractions (in addition to the museums):
Lincoln Park Zoo
Lincoln Park Conservatory
Chicago Cultural Center (they have many performances as well there)
Daley Plaza - at noon ("Under the Picasso") - look at the City of Chicago website for details
Millennium Park

Hope this information helps.

exiledprincess

Governator, I forgot to mention this. Since you enjoy architecture, you might want to invest in this book, "Chicago: In and Around the Loop - A Walking Tour of Architecture and History" by Gerard R. Wolfe. Excellent.

In addition, on the Millennium Park website, there is a free audio tour which can be downloaded to a MP3 player. And on the Chicago Loop Alliance website, there are three free downloadable audio walking tours (for landmarks, theatre and art).

If you were interested in going down to the Museum of Science and Industry (Hyde Park) sometime during your vacation here, I'd recommend that you go to the Smart Museum of Art and the Oriental Institute. You might also wish to take a little side walking trip to the Osaka Japanese Garden. It's only a couple of blocks from the Museum of Science and Industry over the Clarence Darrow Bridge. Lovely spot for photos! (Note: You have to be careful in this area to stay within the areas of the University of Chicago, Hyde Park itself and the MSI and immediate grounds.)

Other interesting neighborhoods:
Chinatown
Lincoln Park (and for architecture, the DePaul University and Armitage/Halsted areas, especially)
Lakeview (why not stop at one of the bars right beside Wrigley Field - say, Murphy's Bleachers for a brat and brew and watch the Cubbies) - You never know, once in a great while, there are lucky recipients of free tickets where people are trying to give them away (if they can't sell them, that is!) And you might wish to take a little side tour to Graceland Cemetery - 4 blocks to the north at Clark/Irving Park (actually, this is in Uptown). Many, many of the famous are buried there - Louis Sullivan (there are a couple of mausoleums done by Sullivan there, in fact), Daniel Burnham, the Palmers (Palmer House), McCormick, Pullman, etc. Take a look at their website online and see if this might interest you. You can pick up a free walking map or an inexpensive booklet by the Chicago Architecture Foundation at the office there (when it's open).
Lincoln Square - and check what's going on at the Old Town School of Folk Music
Wicker Park/Bucktown.

The City of Chicago also has their free Greeter Program. Why don't you check out all the possibilities available on their website?

Have Fun!

Governator

Wow, there's a lot of good information here. It will take me a while to read it all. I plan to print this and take it with me. Thanks so much. I'm not a total cheapskate . I'll splurge a few times on the trip. I like a good bargain, but it is vacation after all.

Governator

Two more questions.

Are there any trains from O'Hare to downtown?

Are the neighborhoods easily accessible by train, or do you think I should rent a car and park it in Millennium parking to save money?

Governator

I'm thinking of using city pass instead of go chicago. It gives admission to shed,field,alpert,hancock,msi for $50 and can be used over 9 days. It will make me feel less compelled to spend my time running from site to site.

PS I bought tickets to a Cubbies game. Want to see that historic stadium and reminisce about 1969

I'm psyched, hope the weather cooperates.

kelliebellie

You won't need a car. You will spend less on cabs then on parking and the el train is great and fun to do! Plus I got towed once in Chicago. Cost me over $100 to get my car back. And I got my window broken. They took my cell phone to make a LOCAL call. I was more upset at their lazy stupidity than my window.

Here is a great magazine with restaurants and what is going on in town:

http://www.chicagoreader.com

And Zagats has Chicago ratings.

Chicago is a really great, clean, safe, friendly town. You will have a great time.