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Old Aug 9th, 2009 | 04:48 PM
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Help with Peru itinerary

We are a couple in our 40s, physically fit and active, and travel regularly. While we've travelled around the area, we've never been to Peru, and are excited for our trip from the 13th - 24th of November. This trip is shorter than usual for us, and I am trying to trim the itinerary, so we aren't running from place to place. I would appreciate very much advice from fellow travelers. We leave Chicago the night of November 13, and arrive in Lima just before 7:00 on the morning of Nov 14. The following is a draft of an itinerary with plenty of questions thrown in:

Nov 14 arrive 6:50 Lima, fly to Cusco a few hours later, and travel from Cusco to Ollantaytambo for one night. From what I've read Ollyantaytambo is a good one night stop to adjust to altitude and to check out the town and the ruins. Or, is it better to just hit as part of a day trip?

Nov 15 Train from Ollyantaytambo to MP. Advice suggests this is a good idea, as part of the length of the trip is already taken when leaving from Ollyantaytambo. Spend the day at MP, and then the night in Agua Calientes.

Nov 16 Back up to MP and back for the night to AG. Or is it better to travel down to Cusco?

Nov 17 and Nov 18 Cusco

From here, I am a little stuck. Of course, I want to go everywhere, but with the shorter trip, I need to keep things simpler. We return from Lima to Chicago on November 24, so we still have some days. Should we spend more time in any of the above places? Rent a car for a day trip around the Sacred Valley? I've heard good and bad about this. If we have more time, I am torn between the Amazon and Lake Titicaca. I love the heat (especially during another rotten Chicago winter), but we have recently taken trips in jungles and to see wildlife (though we do love it!), and Lake Titicaca seems so unique. If we went there, I am unsure as to how best to do it. The bus sounds tough at 10 hours, but supposedly makes some stops at ruins and hopefully not at any crafts factories. The plane from Cusco to Juliaca is, of course, quicker. Sounds like Puno is merely a jumping off point. An overnight with a family? A day trip? Last, since we leave from Lima, a day or two there is fine, as well, as we like cities, even the rough and tumble South American ones, though these other places are certainly a first choice.

Last, I know November is the beginning of rainy season, but this is when we could go, and it will be nice to be there with less crowds. As for our tastes, we have stayed in luxurious properties and on platforms without walls in the jungle, and everywhere in between. Really, my biggest criteria is that some delicious helado is available. Sorry if this is too long. Please ask questions if I haven't been clear, and - as always - thanks to all of you in advance!
mosthecat is offline  
Old Aug 9th, 2009 | 10:35 PM
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I would spend two nights in Ollantaytambo. You might not feel like doing much the first day of arrival. On the second day you can either catch up with the sights in Ollantaytambo, or take a more extensive Sacred Valley tour.

I would only spend one overnight in Aguas Calientes. Two days at Machu Picchu is plenty. I though one day was fine, too, if you take the earliest train and don't intend to do any of the longer walks.

It's easy to find a driver and guide for a reasonable price to tour the Sacred Valley, I would not rent a car.

Two days in Cusco is fine.

Fly back to Lima at least the day before your departure.

Can't advise on the other two options. If it was me I'd probably just add more time in the Sacred Valley and Lima.

Great ice cream (gelato actually) at Cafe 4D in Lima Airport, upstairs in the food court. Stop there every time you are passing thru, try the tamarindo for sure.
mlgb is offline  
Old Aug 9th, 2009 | 11:36 PM
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mosthecat - I wouls agree with mlgb's comments. The Sacred Valley does warrant a fair amount of time as there is a tremendous amount to see and do (you could easily spend your whole time there). A highlight for us was the trek from Lares to Olly which takes 3 days and is through the most amazing scenery and comes highly recommended.

Lake Titica was beautiful and fascinating is a little too touristed. We used Inka Express to get there from Cusco which is a guided tour that stops along the way so the 10 hours is not as bad as it seems.

As far as altitude is concerned, if you have not been at altitude before do not underestimate teh time it can take to get aclimatised. We flew straight into Cusco and I was badly affected 9whereas my wife was not). How fit or old you are has no bearing on how you will be affected so staying in Olly at its lower altitude is IMO a good idea.

Here is a link whicg covers our time in the area (entry 56 onwards

http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog...tml#ENTRY_LIST
crellston is offline  
Old Aug 10th, 2009 | 06:43 AM
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Did something similar in Jan...

MP/AC 7500 ft

Ollantaytambo 8000 ft

Cusco 10000 ft

so headed to Ollantaytambo and AC/MP first

stayed at El Alburgue and Presidente Hotel

good prices nice

also did the backpacker train in/out www.perurail.com

Took acetazolamida to prevent Altitude Illness

visited MP for 1 full day went up early AM

to beat the crowds climb HP...one full day was plenty

then headed back up to Cusco toured the SV on my way up

After visiting Cusco took www.inkaexpress.com to

www.titicaca.info it was amazing.

Flew back to LIM from Juliaca...had a blast.

Good luck.
qwovadis is offline  
Old Aug 10th, 2009 | 09:08 AM
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I don't know where qwovadis gets his altitude numbers, they are UNDER by 1,000 feet for Cusco which can be significant at that altitude.

Eg Cusco Plaza de Armas is at 3400 meters(over 11,000 ft) and altitude is felt by almost everyone not already acclimated.

Ollantaytambo about 2800 m (9200 ft)

Aguas Calientes at 2100 m (6900 ft) .and MP approx 2400 m (8000 ft)
mlgb is offline  
Old Aug 10th, 2009 | 01:41 PM
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rough numbers not exact but the point for the OP

is to head to Ollantaytambo AC first

best to adjust then head to Cusco exact altitude

10,886 ft at airport
qwovadis is offline  
Old Aug 10th, 2009 | 01:48 PM
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very best to sleep in AC the first night 6900 ft

the lower the better not Ollantaytambo 9200 ft

speaking from the standpoint of quickly adjusting

to altitude.
qwovadis is offline  
Old Aug 10th, 2009 | 05:39 PM
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Thanks to everyone for the advice. After weighing everything, and listening to friends, this is where things stand. As you can easily see, there is a nice amount of days left to fill. Lake Titicaca and/or Arequipa? We don't want to squeeze in too much, but I think there's enough time for one of these, right? Also, we no longer have an overnight in AG, if that seems okay:

Nov 14 arrive Lima 6:50am, travel on connection to Cusco, and travel to Ollantaytambo. Take it easy, possibly explore the town, the ruins, and spend the night.
Nov 15 Explore various sites in the Sacred Valley, night in Ollantaytambo.
Nov 16 Early train to MP, and then down to Cusco.
Nov 17 & 18 Cusco
Nov 19
Nov 20
Nov 21
Nov 22
Nov 23 Lima
Nov 24 8:00am flight Lima to Chicago just in time for Thanksgiving. It's all about the food.
mosthecat is offline  
Old Aug 10th, 2009 | 08:15 PM
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If you want to spend just one day at MP, on the 16th you will have to return to Ollantaytambo, & then you can take a taxi. There is basically one return train from Cusco in each category. Right now they are all booked up for that date (it is possible that they are taken by tour agencies and may later be released, but I wouldn't count on it). The late return trains from MP to Ollanta will also sell out first.

Suggest you immediately check the Perurail website for availability and book something, it can be changed depending on availability for a 10% fee. PS for the Cusco trains use "Poroy".

Rough numbers are not off by 1,000 feet, and the difference between 10 K and 11 K (near Plaza de Armas where most people sleep) is significant at that altitude.

Sorry I can't help with the choice between Titicaca and the jungle (if it's rainy season I'd do the former, since you won't see too many animals when it's raining).
mlgb is offline  
Old Aug 10th, 2009 | 11:53 PM
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The choie between Titicaca and Arequipa is a difficult one. Arequipa is a beautiful city with a great main square and the Santa Catalina convent is simply breathtaking and must rank as one of THE sights in Peru. We didn't do it but it is also possible to do a side trip to see the condors in the Colca Canyon from Arequipa - maybe as a daytrip or overnight.

Titicaca is clearly unique as the worlds highest navigable lake and it is again, an amazing sight and Puno is pleasant enough town to stay an night with good helado!! (Juliaca is a complete dump!). You would almost certainly want to stay a night in Puno before a trip on the lake which could include a stay on one of the floating island or on one of the real islands on the lake. I would point out however that at 3800m above sea level this is higher than anywhere else you are considering and that could present a problem. Flying into Juliaca may save time but would only exacerbate the altitude problem. Better to get the Inka Express from Cusco as there is alot to see along the way (or maybe the train?)
crellston is offline  
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