Hi Everyone, I'm in the thick of planning our trip in Japan for November. We are luckily there for almost 6 weeks! This is my plan for the last half so far. Please add suggestions. This will be our 2nd trip and I have a pretty good idea about the things we want to see, so I won't list them except to say in general, we like to learn about history (of course, there's so much in Japan, it's scratching the surface), eat local foods, view local crafts and arts. We also like to take our time, discover areas and relax in onsens, so if this itinerary seems heavy on onsens, it's for a reason. We will be traveling this part in late November.

Nara 1 night
Kyoto 3 nights (we've been before)
Kinosaki Onsen 2 nights (snow crab season!!!)
Kaga 1 night at a ryokan that we like
Kanazawa 4 nights with day trips to Takaota and Toyama
Matsumoto 1-2 nights
Back to Narita airport before leaving the next day

I'm stumped with the travel time from Kinosaki Onsen to Kaga or to Kanazawa and the amount of time it looks like it will take. Plus, I'm wondering if I should go from Kinosaki Onsen to the ryokan (with Onsen) in Kaga or go directly to Kanazawa for that part and the last day go down to Kaga for an Onsen? I know 4 nights in Kanazawa seems like maybe a night too long, but as this will be toward the end of a long trip and we are both in our early 70's, I think we'll need to take things easy!

Before this part of the trip, we are planning to spend time in Tokyo with a couple of days in Nikko and then 2 weeks around Kyushu Island. I'll probably have some questions soon about that too, but right now, I need to get this part down as the snow crab season is high season!

Thanks for any help.

Sorry I can't answer your question about transportation, but FWIW, 1 night in Nara isn't much -- I didn't see everything I wanted to see there (and in nearby Ikaruga) in more than 2 full days. And I think 4 nights in Kanazawa would be delightful. I could have easily filled that time without day trips!

Thanks Kja, I was also thinking perhaps 2 nights might be a good idea. I have an extra night I could put in there which I'll look into doing.

To be honest, I ended up eliminating a stay in kinosaki onsen precisely because it became too convoluted to make it work. There may be a better order depending upon the rest of your itinerary, but I found the time it would take to get to somewhere like Kanazawa to not be worth it. If you really want to fit it in, it might be worth reworking the plan. Or accept 1) that it will be a long trip to the next location or 2) decide it’s just not worth the schlep. There will always be places you won’t get to - is this one you must get to or not?

>> snow crab season!!!
The season starts on November 6 in Kanazawa.

Kinosaki Onsen to Kaga Onsen is (at best) 5 hours to get to your lodging. That is right at my limit on travel time in a day. I might do it, considering that the next day will involve a short trip of 20 minutes on the shinkansen to Kanazawa with a long stay. Would simplify the travel to move Kinosaki before Kyoto.

Kinosaki Onsen is an attractive onsen town. There is an onsen bath circuit where you can walk between the baths wearing geta and yukata if you wish. I was a bit disappointed that there were a lot of Western tourists. That was unusual. I learned later that was because KO is one of the few places where tattoos are acceptable in the onsen baths.

Why Takaoka and Toyama? Toyama-ken has some has some less obvious attractions. Kurobe Gorge and Unazuki Onsen are, definitely a good day trip or, better, an overnight. The gorge was quite cold in late November. Toyama-shi is supposedly famous for black ramen, but my only experience in that city was using the airport a couple of times. I passed through Takaoka once to get the bus to Shirakawago (which is now much more accessible from Kanazawa). Or maybe you are going to Ainokura.

I did a search for the trip from Kinosaki to Kaga with arrival time by 15:30 (so as to get to a ryokan early during checkin period) and found
10:34 to 15:19 on the JR West timetable search. This uses Thunderbird 23 departing Kyoto 13:40. and gives a half-hour to make the connection in Kyoto.

The jorudan search uses Thunderbird limited express 25 allowing only 4 min transfer and 0 min wait.

This is the transit route of the search result from Kinosakionsen to Kagaonsen - Japan Transit Planner | Norikae Annai

>> or go directly to Kanazawa for that part and the last day go down to Kaga
That would work as Kaga is on the shinkansen line

>> Matsumoto 1-2 nights
Consider these options:

Your travel would go via Nagano. Nagano is worth a visit for the magnificent Zenkoji Temple - Nagano Travel

A bit difficult to visit (but worth it)) and many foreign (Asian) tourists is an onsen town that I really enjoyed a lot:
Kusatsu Onsen Travel Guide - What to do around the Kusatsu Hot Springs

Closer to Nagano than Matsumoto are these places which I have not visited:
Shibu Onsen - Yamanouchi Travel
Yudanaka Onsen - Yamanouchi Travel
Jigokudani Monkey Park (Snow Monkeys) - Yamanouchi Travel

Progol, thanks for saying that and confirming what I was already thinking about doing. With my limited knowledge of routes, I had almost come to the conclusion that Kinosaki Onsen was just not going to work for this trip. I think that's the right decision.

mrwunrfl, thanks for the suggestions. At first read, Kusatu Onsen looks like it would be a nice way to wind down the trip. I did go to Shibu Onsen and the Monkey Park in March, 2023 and had a lovely time. During that trip, we also went to Nyuto Onsen which was magical with snow falling over the river outside our ryokan room window. If anyone is in the Akita region, I highly recommend.

>> or go directly to Kanazawa for that part and the last day go down to Kaga
That would work as Kaga is on the shinkansen line. Does that mean I would backtrack back to Kanazawa to go to Nagano? If I have to chose between Nagano and Matsumoto, which would you recommend? Thanks for any info.

<<If I have to chose between Nagano and Matsumoto, which would you recommend? Thanks for any info.>>

We visited Matsumoto and loved it. It has one of the premier historic castles and is stunning to see. I didn’t go to Nagano so can’t compare, but we found the city to be a pleasant one and made for a very worthwhile visit.

" I was a bit disappointed that there were a lot of Western tourists." This was one of my concerns also. So, based on this info and the trouble getting there, I am exploring your suggestion of Kusatsu Onsen. It looks lovely and doable plus would come at a good time in the trip.

"Why Takaoka and Toyama?" I thought they would be easy day trips from Kanazawa and Toyama was describe as having a mountain ringed bay which was the second bay in Japan named as one of the Most Beautiful Bays in the world, plus the book I read also said it's a prime spot of seafood that is difficult to get fresh from anywhere else. As lovers of seafood, that peaked our interest. Of course, I realize seafood is incredible also everywhere in Japan, so maybe this choice was not wise?

I also read Takaota has 1 of the 3 Great Buddha and that Zuiryu-ji is one of Japan's Treasures as the home of Toshinaga's second generation family. The area is famous for its manicured lawns and architecture. Of course, by this time, I will have seen so many incredible castles, shrines, etc, I may have eyes too weary to really appreciate this plus it will be winter, so how manicured will a lawn actually look?

Do you or anyone have suggestions for day trips from Kanazawa in case we need a day out?

Progol, I think perhaps I read your trip report and Matsumoto stuck in my mind. I read there are tours of the castle with the Goodwill Guide Group (in English!). Did you do something like that? I'm also looking forward to going to the City Museum of Art to see Kusama Yoyoi's fun creations.

FYI: Goodwill Guides are available throughout Japan. The Japanese National Tourism Organization coordinates these free volunteer guides, who are generally knowledgeable and happy to guide you in return for practicing their English – which can be excellent, but it is a bit of a luck-of-the-draw.
http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/arrange/tr...deservice.html
You pay any entrance fees and his/her meal if your time with the guide includes one. Do NOT tip these guides, or anyone else in Japan.

Am happy that you had good answers to my Why? questions.

The backtrack would only be 20 minutes each way on the Hokuriku shinkansen (plus ~3000 yen each way). But the idea of going to Kanazawa before Kaga was based on your traveling from Kinosaki O. Without KO it will be an easy trip from Kyoto directly to Kaga. I might pop for Gran Class from Kaga to Kanazawa, though it would cost an extra 4000 for that 19-minute trip.

Your plan was for one or two nights in Matsumoto.

>> between Nagano and Matsumoto
I would recommend Kusatsu Onsen instead, especially to an onsen fan for a two-night stay. A good route would be via Karuizawa.

If the choice was between Zenkoji and Matsumotojo then I would recommend Zenkoji. I'll put it this way: Matsumotojo is a wonderful castle but it is not Himejijo, and other temples are nice, but they are not Zenkoji. That is why, for a one-night stay, there is not a great reason (for me) to go beyond Nagano.

You did find another interest in Matsumoto, the art museum. Note that am sure you could find other interests in Nagano. Both progol and, years ago, hawaiiantraveler enjoyed multi-night stays in Matsumoto.

I visited Matsumotojo and spent the night in an ekimae hotel. Next day I took the lex to Nagano and remember nice views of the valley where Nagano sits. At Nagano Station it was easy to find the bus to Zenkoji and a short trip. I thought the shrine was stunning (would not recommend taking the crawl in the tunnel to a claustrophobic person). I walked back to the station (still remember the manhole cover and the bird-chirp walk signal) and got the shinkansen to Tokyo.

As far as getting to Narita goes it would be better to take the shinkansen to Ueno (for the Skyliner) or Tokyo (for the N'ex) to get to the airport.

From Matsumoto you would take one of the Azusa L'ex trains to Shinjuku and figure out how to get to the airport from there. I think that some runs of that (Azusa/Super Azusa) limited express train go on to Tokyo Staion, but am not sure of that. If flight departure time allows, then I would probably spend the night in Shinjuku and take the limo bus the next day from the hotel to NRT.

Just remembered that Shinuku is a Narita Express stop: You might find a good connection from the Super Azusa to the Narita Express at Shinjuku.

Think I forgot to note the obvious: by dropping Kinosaki you now have two more nights to plan.

>> Do you or anyone have suggestions for day trips from Kanazawa in case we need a day out?

When in November? A manicured lawn will be a manicured lawn. It won't be winter weather unless you go up in elevation.

I do/did recommend Kurobe Gorge and Unazuki Onsen.

Better than that, probably, would be Shirakawago.

And there is the Noto Peninsula.

You did find good reasons for Takaoka and Toyama. You mentioned seafood in Toyama. You would find the same in Kanazawa. The two cities are only about 40 miles apart. Am pretty sure they both have their own fishing fleets. The snow crab is definitely the thing in Kanazawa. IDK about Toyama crab (maybe they fish their own or get it from Kanazawa). Maybe, though, they can get something from Toyama Bay that is not fished from Kanazawa (but you still may find in Kanazawa).

Re: Guides at Matsumoto castle . I believe there are Goodwill Guides by the entry kiosk. We didn’t do a tour of the castle.

But we did use Goodwill guides elsewhere, which you need to arrange prior to your visit. kja posted the link. We had a fabulous guide in Kanazawa. We were there for 4 nights and had plenty to do, no need to do day trips. I highly recommend the D. T. Suzuki museum there if you’re interested in architecture as it beautifully conveys his Zen philosophy. A small museum on his life may not be for everyone, but it was one of our favorite places there.

mrwunrfl, thank you for all your suggestions. They will certainly keep me busy. How did you learn so much about how to get around and all the different types of trains? Do you have certain websites or apps you use? I'm always amazed at your answers about getting different places!

Progol, the DT Suzuki is close to the top of my list for Kanazawa. We are both architecture hounds and I'm interested in the Japanese influence on Frank Lloyd Wright. Thanks for your TR, it's been really helpful.

bellinghamsters, I’m glad you enjoyed my trip report! We really did fall in love with Japan and i hope that comes through.

re: Noto peninsula- I don’t think the peninsula is open for tourism yet since the devastating earthquake. From what I’ve read, restoration has been very slow.

If architects are of interest to you, you might want to make time for Takayama, where you can visit the Mackintosh room in the Hida Takayama Museum of Art.

How? Practice. I have been doing this since 2001, planning my own trips or helping others travel. Back in the day it was a matter of using a printed national JR timetable and a magnifying glass. Then there was the now-defunct amazing hyperdia website. I miss hyperdia.

Today, I use:
Route Maps and Timetables | West Japan Railway Company Timetable & Route Finder
Route Search - Japan Transit Planner | Norikae Annai
Rome2Rio: discover how to get anywhere
Google maps has some holes wrt train travel in Japan, but is ok.

The first link above is JR West and can be used for travel to/from/through that region. The other JR company websites can also be useful.

japan-guide has useful information for 'getting there and getting around' various destinations

jnto.go.jp had very useful Practical Travel Guide pdfs but they went out of date quite a few years ago. FAIK they may be back and useful, the old ones still being useful to some extent.

Thanks for all the info. Lots to figure out.

Another question, we arrive in Tokyo October 31st. I've tried to make hotel reservations online a couple of times, but it appears they are not taking reservations yet for early November. Could this be correct? If so, do they open them up about 6 months ahead?

Which hotel? You could be correct about a particular hotel but, in general, you can book hotels in Tokyo way in advance. After you book it is worth checking back at 6,3, and 1 month out.

we're planning a trip for the fall as well -- late October until just before Thanksgiving -- and have found a lot of variation in when hotels open up their calendars for booking. we started booking some accommodations in late December and January, but are still waiting to book our 1st choice in Kyoto, as they aren't sure when the fall calendar will be opening. crazy, huh? (note: we booked an alternative choice with free cancellation to be sure we will have someplace for our dates).
most hotel websites have a chat function, so you can simply ask when rooms open up for your dates. as others have said, it's worth checking in pretty frequently. I've also gotten pretty quick responses from email inquiries. if you are traveling to multiple locations, it can be a lot to keep track of, but if you are used to using Excel or creating checklists, both can be helpful tools.