Trip Report: Sacred Valley, Cusco, Lima
Aug 20th, 2010, 12:50 PM
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Trip Report: Sacred Valley, Cusco, Lima
We’ve just returned from a fantastic trip to Peru. My husband, my daughter, my son-in-law and myself were there for 18 days—from July 11 through July 28. Our main reason for going was to hike the Inca Trail, but we ended up having an absolutely wonderful time before and after that trek.
Our itinerary:
1 night: Ramada Costa del Sol in Lima (at the airport)
3 nights: Sol y Luna Lodge in Sacred Valley
4 nights: Hotel Libertador in Cusco
5 nights: 5-Day Inca Trail (search on my name and you will find a separate post for this)
2 nights: Relaxing at Inkaterra Machu Picchu in Aguas Calientes
1 nights: Hotel Libertador in Cusco
1 night: Miraflores Park Hotel in Lima
A bit of background information:
We had decided to be very careful about acclimating for the high altitude on the Inca Trail. This is why we spent basically 7 days in the Sacred Valley/Cusco region. I had been worried that we would become bored—but this was absolutely not the case. We actually could have even spent a bit more time in the area! (And the acclimatization plan seemed to work out well for all four of us—none of us had any problem at all with the altitude).
By now you have noticed that we stayed at some rather nice hotels. But, actually we paid very low rates for most of them. I made the reservations at least 9 months in advance, and was able to lock in special non-cancellable rates. I felt comfortable doing this, because we had purchased travel insurance. We stayed at the Miraflores Park and at the airport Ramada for less than half their normal fee because of this. We stayed in the most basic rooms at the Sol y Luna and the Libertador . The Sol y Luna’s charge for a basic bungalow is relatively low—but they do mark up everything else—so consider getting a guide rather than paying for their activities—and don’t even think about buying water or having your laundry done there. Our splurge was the two nights at the Inkaterra—pretty pricey—but if you’re going to splurge, it was a good place to do it (and all of our meals were included, so this helped).
During the 7 days before our Inca Trail trek we used David Choque as a guide. We are so glad that we did this. We were able to do so many things with him, that we would otherwise not have been able to do. And he made everything so easy for us. He was prompt, well informed, and very easy to get along with. And his drivers managed to haul the four of us around (along with our luggage sometimes) very comfortably. On the first day, he even took us to a “safe” cambio in Cusco to exchange money before he dropped us off at the Sol y Luna. We usually toured with David (or his other guide, Leo) for part of the day and then were free to do whatever we wanted for the rest of the time.
to be continued . . .
Our itinerary:
1 night: Ramada Costa del Sol in Lima (at the airport)
3 nights: Sol y Luna Lodge in Sacred Valley
4 nights: Hotel Libertador in Cusco
5 nights: 5-Day Inca Trail (search on my name and you will find a separate post for this)
2 nights: Relaxing at Inkaterra Machu Picchu in Aguas Calientes
1 nights: Hotel Libertador in Cusco
1 night: Miraflores Park Hotel in Lima
A bit of background information:
We had decided to be very careful about acclimating for the high altitude on the Inca Trail. This is why we spent basically 7 days in the Sacred Valley/Cusco region. I had been worried that we would become bored—but this was absolutely not the case. We actually could have even spent a bit more time in the area! (And the acclimatization plan seemed to work out well for all four of us—none of us had any problem at all with the altitude).
By now you have noticed that we stayed at some rather nice hotels. But, actually we paid very low rates for most of them. I made the reservations at least 9 months in advance, and was able to lock in special non-cancellable rates. I felt comfortable doing this, because we had purchased travel insurance. We stayed at the Miraflores Park and at the airport Ramada for less than half their normal fee because of this. We stayed in the most basic rooms at the Sol y Luna and the Libertador . The Sol y Luna’s charge for a basic bungalow is relatively low—but they do mark up everything else—so consider getting a guide rather than paying for their activities—and don’t even think about buying water or having your laundry done there. Our splurge was the two nights at the Inkaterra—pretty pricey—but if you’re going to splurge, it was a good place to do it (and all of our meals were included, so this helped).
During the 7 days before our Inca Trail trek we used David Choque as a guide. We are so glad that we did this. We were able to do so many things with him, that we would otherwise not have been able to do. And he made everything so easy for us. He was prompt, well informed, and very easy to get along with. And his drivers managed to haul the four of us around (along with our luggage sometimes) very comfortably. On the first day, he even took us to a “safe” cambio in Cusco to exchange money before he dropped us off at the Sol y Luna. We usually toured with David (or his other guide, Leo) for part of the day and then were free to do whatever we wanted for the rest of the time.
to be continued . . .
Aug 20th, 2010, 03:54 PM
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Highlights:
VISITING HUILLOC VILLAGE:
David took us to visit Huilloc (a weaving village high in the Andes where the people wear the traditional woven textiles). This village is so far out of the way, that the villagers can rarely get down to town to buy bread or supplies. So, we stopped in Ollantaytambo to buy some bags of bread, and some notebooks and pencils for the school. The drive up the mountain took us through some lovely wild country and we loved visiting this village. We met so many people as we handed out the bread, and distributing the pencils and notebooks in the school was something we’ll never forget. The children were so appreciative. One little girl just couldn’t wait to starting writing in her brand new notebook. We visited two classes, and each class sang us a song. Then, they asked us to sing them a song. We chose “Take Me Out to the Ball Game”. They really liked the part where we did the motions to “one, two, three strikes you’re out”. David says that every Christmas he brings chocolate up to the village and makes hot chocolate for them. He said that last year people came from miles around because they liked it so much! I think that if we ever went back, I would want to try to bring them some bags of oranges and other fruit, because that seems to be another thing that would be hard for them to keep on hand.
SITTING IN THE GARDEN AT THE SOL Y LUNA:
Seriously, this was a major favorite for us. The gardens are just beautiful, and we were staying in their older bungalows—where the gardens are especially lush. We could sit in the shade of our porch, read and watch the birds and butterflies flit through this idyllic environment. The sun was warm, and the Andes towered tall and blue all around us. This was one of our loveliest memories!
RIDING PERUVIAN PASO HORSES:
Our daughter and son-in-law did this while we relaxed in the garden. This was the one thing that we did through the Sol y Luna. The horses were really special—they were spirited (yet safe) and walked with a special gait, that is unique to them. It was a 3 hour ride, that took them along the Urubamba River—they got to see a whole different part of the countryside, and said they really enjoyed riding those beautiful horses.
VISITING THE MARAS SALT PANS AND MORAY TERRACES WITH DAVID:
First of all, just driving to the Maras area was absolutely spectacular. The scenery included golden fields surrounded by high Andean peaks covered in glaciers. We were there throughout the afternoon, and got to watch the shepherds bringing the animals home toward the end of the day. Each new vista elicited new “oohs” and “aahs” as we drove through this high plateau.
None of us had ever seen salt pans before, so we were really fascinated by these. You can walk along the little terraces between the pans—and we even got to watch some of the residents working. The salt pans are built on a hillside, and go on and on—the salt gleaming and glittering in the sunlight. It is really quite an impressive sight!
The Moray Terraces were a sort of Incan Biological Experiment. The Incas used the successive terraces to help them genetically engineer crops to grow at higher and higher altitudes. David’s explanations made this come alive for us—very interesting!
to be continued . . .
VISITING HUILLOC VILLAGE:
David took us to visit Huilloc (a weaving village high in the Andes where the people wear the traditional woven textiles). This village is so far out of the way, that the villagers can rarely get down to town to buy bread or supplies. So, we stopped in Ollantaytambo to buy some bags of bread, and some notebooks and pencils for the school. The drive up the mountain took us through some lovely wild country and we loved visiting this village. We met so many people as we handed out the bread, and distributing the pencils and notebooks in the school was something we’ll never forget. The children were so appreciative. One little girl just couldn’t wait to starting writing in her brand new notebook. We visited two classes, and each class sang us a song. Then, they asked us to sing them a song. We chose “Take Me Out to the Ball Game”. They really liked the part where we did the motions to “one, two, three strikes you’re out”. David says that every Christmas he brings chocolate up to the village and makes hot chocolate for them. He said that last year people came from miles around because they liked it so much! I think that if we ever went back, I would want to try to bring them some bags of oranges and other fruit, because that seems to be another thing that would be hard for them to keep on hand.
SITTING IN THE GARDEN AT THE SOL Y LUNA:
Seriously, this was a major favorite for us. The gardens are just beautiful, and we were staying in their older bungalows—where the gardens are especially lush. We could sit in the shade of our porch, read and watch the birds and butterflies flit through this idyllic environment. The sun was warm, and the Andes towered tall and blue all around us. This was one of our loveliest memories!
RIDING PERUVIAN PASO HORSES:
Our daughter and son-in-law did this while we relaxed in the garden. This was the one thing that we did through the Sol y Luna. The horses were really special—they were spirited (yet safe) and walked with a special gait, that is unique to them. It was a 3 hour ride, that took them along the Urubamba River—they got to see a whole different part of the countryside, and said they really enjoyed riding those beautiful horses.
VISITING THE MARAS SALT PANS AND MORAY TERRACES WITH DAVID:
First of all, just driving to the Maras area was absolutely spectacular. The scenery included golden fields surrounded by high Andean peaks covered in glaciers. We were there throughout the afternoon, and got to watch the shepherds bringing the animals home toward the end of the day. Each new vista elicited new “oohs” and “aahs” as we drove through this high plateau.
None of us had ever seen salt pans before, so we were really fascinated by these. You can walk along the little terraces between the pans—and we even got to watch some of the residents working. The salt pans are built on a hillside, and go on and on—the salt gleaming and glittering in the sunlight. It is really quite an impressive sight!
The Moray Terraces were a sort of Incan Biological Experiment. The Incas used the successive terraces to help them genetically engineer crops to grow at higher and higher altitudes. David’s explanations made this come alive for us—very interesting!
to be continued . . .
Aug 21st, 2010, 09:09 AM
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mlgb: I know--the photos really would be nice. They definitely help people decide where they want to go, etc. I'm just not sure I will have figured out the whole picassa thing by then!
Aug 21st, 2010, 09:13 AM
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highlights continued . . .
ATTENDING THE VIRGEN DEL CARMEN FESTIVAL IN PISAC:
This was very memorable! We weren’t able to be in Peru for the Inti Raymi Festival in June, so we made a point of coming at the right time to see this festival. It is celebrated primarily on July 16 each year. The biggest celebration is in the village of Paucartambo, but Pisac also has a celebration. It is sort of a combination of the Catholic religion and quechua customs. Leo, who was guiding us that day, suggested that we sit on a balcony along the main square, so that we could watch the outdoor catholic mass, and then watch all of the costumed groups dance around the square on their way to the procession. He knew the owners of the restaurant, so he was able to get us this perfect place to sit! As the last group left the square, we hurried ahead to a side street where we could watch the procession in its entirety. It was extremely colorful— a full array of costumes, masks, music and dance. At the very end, a large group of men wearing the most amazing feathered headdresses, carried a litter which held a statue of the virgin bedecked in flowers. Not to be missed!
VISITING THE AREA SOUTH OF CUSCO (Oropesa, Pikillacta and Tipon):
On this day we had a nice combination of activities. This was another less-travelled area that we would have had a difficult time visiting without our guide.
We visited Oropesa, which is a bread-making village that supplies almost all of the bread that Cusco uses. We went to one of the bread-making houses and got to watch the process from start to finish. First we watched inside, as the dough was worked and set out to rise. Then we went to the outside courtyard to see the stone oven. I even got to use the huge tool to pull bread out of the fire. And of course the bread—eating it while it was still warm was quite a treat!
Next we visited Pikillacta, which are PRE-Incan ruins. This is a beautiful area, and the ruins are interesting, because it gives you a chance to see the difference between the Incan structures and the earlier ones. This was a big change after looking at all of the Incan stonework.
And finally, we stopped at Tipon—which is really a marvel of Incan irrigation engineering. The water still flows through the channels which were built by the Incas. There are beautiful views from here, and the whole site was both fun to explore and quite an impressive display of the Inca’s engineering abilities.
ENJOYING CUSCO:
We toured Cusco on our own, in our free time—it is a vibrant and very busy town. We loved the Plaza de Armas. Be sure to go into La Catedral—it is replete with gold and silver—lots of statues. And you can see the famous painting of the Last Supper where the apostles are being served cuy (guinea pig) and chicha (corn beer). The walk up through the San Blas District is fun—it is full of trekkers, artisans (and lots of tourists, of course). We had a drink in the beautiful Hotel Monasterio. And ate dinner at “The Fallen Angel” –a restaurant/bar with an amazing avante-garde décor and dinner tables made out of bathtubs with real fish swimming in them! We also enjoyed the MAP (Museum of Pre-Columbian Art)—it is open, I think until 10:00 p.m.—if you go in the evening, you may have the place almost to yourself! We also enjoyed the food at Cicciolina—sort of nouvelle-andean cuisine. And we at dinner twice, at the Inka Grill. The food was great—and it has a fun, busy atmosphere. I had the coca leaf crème brule—brilliant!! And this is where we tried cuy—it was part of an appetizer. Quite good!
to be continued . . .
ATTENDING THE VIRGEN DEL CARMEN FESTIVAL IN PISAC:
This was very memorable! We weren’t able to be in Peru for the Inti Raymi Festival in June, so we made a point of coming at the right time to see this festival. It is celebrated primarily on July 16 each year. The biggest celebration is in the village of Paucartambo, but Pisac also has a celebration. It is sort of a combination of the Catholic religion and quechua customs. Leo, who was guiding us that day, suggested that we sit on a balcony along the main square, so that we could watch the outdoor catholic mass, and then watch all of the costumed groups dance around the square on their way to the procession. He knew the owners of the restaurant, so he was able to get us this perfect place to sit! As the last group left the square, we hurried ahead to a side street where we could watch the procession in its entirety. It was extremely colorful— a full array of costumes, masks, music and dance. At the very end, a large group of men wearing the most amazing feathered headdresses, carried a litter which held a statue of the virgin bedecked in flowers. Not to be missed!
VISITING THE AREA SOUTH OF CUSCO (Oropesa, Pikillacta and Tipon):
On this day we had a nice combination of activities. This was another less-travelled area that we would have had a difficult time visiting without our guide.
We visited Oropesa, which is a bread-making village that supplies almost all of the bread that Cusco uses. We went to one of the bread-making houses and got to watch the process from start to finish. First we watched inside, as the dough was worked and set out to rise. Then we went to the outside courtyard to see the stone oven. I even got to use the huge tool to pull bread out of the fire. And of course the bread—eating it while it was still warm was quite a treat!
Next we visited Pikillacta, which are PRE-Incan ruins. This is a beautiful area, and the ruins are interesting, because it gives you a chance to see the difference between the Incan structures and the earlier ones. This was a big change after looking at all of the Incan stonework.
And finally, we stopped at Tipon—which is really a marvel of Incan irrigation engineering. The water still flows through the channels which were built by the Incas. There are beautiful views from here, and the whole site was both fun to explore and quite an impressive display of the Inca’s engineering abilities.
ENJOYING CUSCO:
We toured Cusco on our own, in our free time—it is a vibrant and very busy town. We loved the Plaza de Armas. Be sure to go into La Catedral—it is replete with gold and silver—lots of statues. And you can see the famous painting of the Last Supper where the apostles are being served cuy (guinea pig) and chicha (corn beer). The walk up through the San Blas District is fun—it is full of trekkers, artisans (and lots of tourists, of course). We had a drink in the beautiful Hotel Monasterio. And ate dinner at “The Fallen Angel” –a restaurant/bar with an amazing avante-garde décor and dinner tables made out of bathtubs with real fish swimming in them! We also enjoyed the MAP (Museum of Pre-Columbian Art)—it is open, I think until 10:00 p.m.—if you go in the evening, you may have the place almost to yourself! We also enjoyed the food at Cicciolina—sort of nouvelle-andean cuisine. And we at dinner twice, at the Inka Grill. The food was great—and it has a fun, busy atmosphere. I had the coca leaf crème brule—brilliant!! And this is where we tried cuy—it was part of an appetizer. Quite good!
to be continued . . .
Aug 21st, 2010, 11:10 AM
#6
Sounds like a great time. Isn't David Choque the best? He so enhanced our visit. I thought Pikillacta esp. fascinating and agree with your comments. After seeing all the Inca sites it really impressed upon me how advanced the Incas were.
Aug 22nd, 2010, 09:51 AM
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highlights continued . . .
SACSAYHUAMAN:
This was one of our favorite ruins. It is the fortress that overlooks Cusco. Leo made the history of this place come alive for us. The stones are truly massive—and the fact that the Incas were able to move and build with these stones is truly mind-boggling. There is also a wonderful view of Cusco from here—and you are right next to the “Cristo Blanco” –the statue of Christ that looks over the whole city.
VISITING AWANACANCHA:
This is a weaving cooperative between Cusco and the Sacred Valley. It has all of the different types of Andean camelids—llama, vicuna, alpaca and others. You can learn about (and pet) the animals, watch weaving and spinning demonstrations and visit their cooperative store to buy quality textiles (these are not at low bargain prices, however).
OLLANTAYTAMBO AND PISAC RUINS:
You can’t miss these—there are fascinating things to learn about each one. We were so thankful to have a guide with us because he pointed out things we never would have found or known on our own. One thing I especially liked was the grain storage facility in Ollantaytambo. It is built high on the side of a cliff—mainly to protect the grain from being stolen. It seems to be such an unlikely place to store anything!
KUSIKAY SHOW IN CUSCO:
This is a theater production that I think plays every night in Cusco (during its season, that is). It is a lot of fun—and combines theater, circus, dance and music—and comedy. It’s pretty funny. This was an enjoyable way to spend an evening. Recommended!
VISITING THE VILLAGE OF CHINCHERO FOR THE SUNDAY MARKET:
We first visited a weaving house in Chinchero and then walked on down to the market.
At the weaving house, we were given demonstrations of weaving, spinning and of how the various plant dyes work. For example, they showed us how you can change the color of a particular red dye—you just mix it with lime juice, and it instantly becomes bright orange. We also got to see their guinea pig pen—and help feed the guinea pigs their staple food—barley.
We loved the market. This is a truly authentic market, where Peruvian people come to buy their produce, etc. for the week. We saw piles and piles of different fruits, peppers, potatoes, corn, etc. Huge bunches of flowers. Big bags of coca leaves. Large bricks of queso (cheese). And of course all along the outskirts of the market were the woven goods. Between the four of us, we purchased several table runners, wall hangings, hats, etc. Our guide, David, helped us decide what was real baby alpaca, what was made out of sheep wool, etc. And we were able to bargain with the sellers to get some really good prices!
THE INCA TRAIL:
This was so wonderful that it even exceeded our expectations. We did the 5-day version. Search on my screen name to find the trip report for this.
STAYING AT THE INKATERRA MACHU PICCHU:
This was our big splurge. We spent two nights here to “recover” and relax after the Inca Trail. It was everything we’d hoped. We took a free orchid/nature walk around the grounds. We also visited their “Spectacled Bear Project” (they have rescued several Andean Spectacled Bears and hope to introduce at least one of them to the wild). We had our first Pisco Sours (they were great), indulged in some relaxing massages, and just enjoyed hanging out in their gardens. There were so many birds. If you sit in one place, you can just watch as a variety of birds flit through the area. I have never seen so many different kinds of hummingbird in one place!! All of our meals were included, which made everything even easier. There was always firewood by our door, so we could build a fire to take away the chill in the evening. Perfect!
QUICK TOUR OF LIMA:
We were very glad that we spent a bit of time in Lima. We had considered just passing through the airport and going straight home, but we are very happy to have seen at least part of Peru’s capital city.
Favorite things: walking to and visiting the Parque del Amor (famous kissing statue and beautiful mosaic walls overlooking the ocean); seeing the yellow-ochre buildings and the Presidential Palace at the Plaza d’Armas; exploring the Larco Museum (a really, really good private art collection—I liked it even better than the “MAP” in Cusco); listening to the waves crash beneath us as we ate dinner at the Rosa Nautica; and especially eating ceviche for lunch at a real cevicheria (we went to La Mar and shared several kinds of ceviche—it was absolutely fanastic!!) Don’t miss trying the ceviche in Lima!!!
One thing: the traffic in Lima can be really bad. The hotel told us to leave for the airport 3 hours before our flight. I’m glad we followed their advice, because even so, we started to worry that we would be late. Go early!
THANK YOU!!!
A huge thank you to everyone on the TripAdvisor and Fodor’s forums who helped us plan this trip. Everything turned out beautifully for us, and it never would have happened without all of your inputs and advice. There is such a wealth of information on these forums—they are truly indispensible. Thank you all so much for your help!!
SACSAYHUAMAN:
This was one of our favorite ruins. It is the fortress that overlooks Cusco. Leo made the history of this place come alive for us. The stones are truly massive—and the fact that the Incas were able to move and build with these stones is truly mind-boggling. There is also a wonderful view of Cusco from here—and you are right next to the “Cristo Blanco” –the statue of Christ that looks over the whole city.
VISITING AWANACANCHA:
This is a weaving cooperative between Cusco and the Sacred Valley. It has all of the different types of Andean camelids—llama, vicuna, alpaca and others. You can learn about (and pet) the animals, watch weaving and spinning demonstrations and visit their cooperative store to buy quality textiles (these are not at low bargain prices, however).
OLLANTAYTAMBO AND PISAC RUINS:
You can’t miss these—there are fascinating things to learn about each one. We were so thankful to have a guide with us because he pointed out things we never would have found or known on our own. One thing I especially liked was the grain storage facility in Ollantaytambo. It is built high on the side of a cliff—mainly to protect the grain from being stolen. It seems to be such an unlikely place to store anything!
KUSIKAY SHOW IN CUSCO:
This is a theater production that I think plays every night in Cusco (during its season, that is). It is a lot of fun—and combines theater, circus, dance and music—and comedy. It’s pretty funny. This was an enjoyable way to spend an evening. Recommended!
VISITING THE VILLAGE OF CHINCHERO FOR THE SUNDAY MARKET:
We first visited a weaving house in Chinchero and then walked on down to the market.
At the weaving house, we were given demonstrations of weaving, spinning and of how the various plant dyes work. For example, they showed us how you can change the color of a particular red dye—you just mix it with lime juice, and it instantly becomes bright orange. We also got to see their guinea pig pen—and help feed the guinea pigs their staple food—barley.
We loved the market. This is a truly authentic market, where Peruvian people come to buy their produce, etc. for the week. We saw piles and piles of different fruits, peppers, potatoes, corn, etc. Huge bunches of flowers. Big bags of coca leaves. Large bricks of queso (cheese). And of course all along the outskirts of the market were the woven goods. Between the four of us, we purchased several table runners, wall hangings, hats, etc. Our guide, David, helped us decide what was real baby alpaca, what was made out of sheep wool, etc. And we were able to bargain with the sellers to get some really good prices!
THE INCA TRAIL:
This was so wonderful that it even exceeded our expectations. We did the 5-day version. Search on my screen name to find the trip report for this.
STAYING AT THE INKATERRA MACHU PICCHU:
This was our big splurge. We spent two nights here to “recover” and relax after the Inca Trail. It was everything we’d hoped. We took a free orchid/nature walk around the grounds. We also visited their “Spectacled Bear Project” (they have rescued several Andean Spectacled Bears and hope to introduce at least one of them to the wild). We had our first Pisco Sours (they were great), indulged in some relaxing massages, and just enjoyed hanging out in their gardens. There were so many birds. If you sit in one place, you can just watch as a variety of birds flit through the area. I have never seen so many different kinds of hummingbird in one place!! All of our meals were included, which made everything even easier. There was always firewood by our door, so we could build a fire to take away the chill in the evening. Perfect!
QUICK TOUR OF LIMA:
We were very glad that we spent a bit of time in Lima. We had considered just passing through the airport and going straight home, but we are very happy to have seen at least part of Peru’s capital city.
Favorite things: walking to and visiting the Parque del Amor (famous kissing statue and beautiful mosaic walls overlooking the ocean); seeing the yellow-ochre buildings and the Presidential Palace at the Plaza d’Armas; exploring the Larco Museum (a really, really good private art collection—I liked it even better than the “MAP” in Cusco); listening to the waves crash beneath us as we ate dinner at the Rosa Nautica; and especially eating ceviche for lunch at a real cevicheria (we went to La Mar and shared several kinds of ceviche—it was absolutely fanastic!!) Don’t miss trying the ceviche in Lima!!!
One thing: the traffic in Lima can be really bad. The hotel told us to leave for the airport 3 hours before our flight. I’m glad we followed their advice, because even so, we started to worry that we would be late. Go early!
THANK YOU!!!
A huge thank you to everyone on the TripAdvisor and Fodor’s forums who helped us plan this trip. Everything turned out beautifully for us, and it never would have happened without all of your inputs and advice. There is such a wealth of information on these forums—they are truly indispensible. Thank you all so much for your help!!
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