A Totally Arcane Week in the U.K: A Trip report of Sorts
Apr 24th, 2007 | 12:47 AM
#1
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Joined: Jun 2006
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A Totally Arcane Week in the U.K: A Trip report of Sorts
I'll start this now and try to finish it within the next day or two.
I am doing so mainly in case it contains some useful information for others.
It will be of little use to "foodies" and museum-goers I'm afraid.
I departed Washington Dulles on Monday evening 16 April. Got to the airport around 3:00 PM for a 5:59 departure for Heathrow.
Check-in was immediate and totally uneventful. I was through Security in less than 10 minutes.
Spent the rest of the time hanging around in one of the United Red Carpet Lounges in Terminal C. The VA Tech massacre story broke on CNN while I was waiting so a lot of eyes were glued to the television screens.
Boarding was basically uneventful although one could hardly hear the numerous announcements made at the gate. Between the gate area noise levels and the poor amplification over the gate PA system coupled with lousy diction I could hardly understand what was being said and I speak and understand English!
Flight was full. Business Class was almost full. I was asked if I would be willing to change seats so a couple could sit together and I agreed. Ended up in a bulkhead row seat.
Food was good; service was good. Seat reclined enough and leg rest elevated high enough so I was able to get some sleep.
I thought the service wasn't nearly as "refined" as I had experienced in Continental's "Business First" product to Paris last year but this certainly beats traveling in Economy and with the added bonus of no cheapskates sitting behind me whining about someone in front of them reclining their seat.
On-time arrival at Heathrow in Terminal 3 and the usual long walk to Immigration and baggage claim. Of course, everyone else going to London decided to arrive at the same time so it was the usual zoo atmosphere once I cleared Customs (a straight shot out the "Nothing to Declare" lane...does anybody actually watch that???).
Was able to shower and take my time changing clothes in United's excellent "Arrivals Lounge" and was soon at the Hertz counter to pick up the hire car.
I had a rather long "discussion" at the counter about not being charged in Dollars. Hertz continues with the dynamic currency conversion number to include written language in the rental agreement which clearly states you are agreeing to be charged in your own currency. I refused then and stated I would keep refusing until they agreed to charge me in local currency which they finally did...but it took some doing.
I had brought along my own GPS (a Magellan Roadmate 760) which at first couldn't acquire the satellites. I finally ended up attaching the exterior antenna and then it worked like a charm.
I like using my GPS in Europe but I also bring along maps as a back-up. For the UK, I have found the A-Z maps to be excellent. I also know that if I pick "shortest distance" as an option I'll often end up on the very "backest" of back roads...great for tooling around the countryside.
As some of you may recall I had decided to attend the funeral for Ben Haines which was scheduled for 10:30 AM. I left Hertz a little before 9:00 AM thinking I had enough time and the adventure with driving in London traffic began in earnest!
The GPS took me right into the traffic which after getting close to the city itself was very slow. I was also getting closer and closer to the "congestion zone" but at the very edge of it the GPS directd me to turn off.
Nobody was "on the horn" like they would have been in a similar US city traffic situation. However, here's what <b>was</b> "interesting" in two-way situations: motorcyclists heading in the opposite direction and often doing so in <b>my lane</b> and then giving me evil looks when I refused to move over for them (since I coulnd't anyway). Between that and the usual motorcycle "between the lanes" tactic which seems to be universal and finding myself more than once caught behind a Transport for London bus there were no major mishaps.
I got to the church with exactly five minutes to spare and have reported about the funeral on another, earlier thread.
After the service I had a fairly easy time navigating out of the city (despite a couple of "no left turn" situations the GPS didn't know about and the resulting, "When possible, make a legal U-turn" responses) and was soon on my way to Norwich for my afternoon appointment.
I stopped off along the A-11 to get a bite to eat and ended up at one of those Burger Kings where the fries were terrible and there was no place to pee (at least that I could find) so I resorted to a furtive whiz behind the dumpsters in back) and was soon on the way again.
A word about the car: it was a Ford Focus with automatic transmission. I drive a stick at home but have the wherewithall to afford not having to learn to shift with my left hand when driving in the UK. I got what I felt was an excellent deal through BA Holidays which was cheaper than my usual AutoEurope strategy; I called them and they could not even begin to match the rate.
More later today...
I am doing so mainly in case it contains some useful information for others.
It will be of little use to "foodies" and museum-goers I'm afraid.
I departed Washington Dulles on Monday evening 16 April. Got to the airport around 3:00 PM for a 5:59 departure for Heathrow.
Check-in was immediate and totally uneventful. I was through Security in less than 10 minutes.
Spent the rest of the time hanging around in one of the United Red Carpet Lounges in Terminal C. The VA Tech massacre story broke on CNN while I was waiting so a lot of eyes were glued to the television screens.
Boarding was basically uneventful although one could hardly hear the numerous announcements made at the gate. Between the gate area noise levels and the poor amplification over the gate PA system coupled with lousy diction I could hardly understand what was being said and I speak and understand English!
Flight was full. Business Class was almost full. I was asked if I would be willing to change seats so a couple could sit together and I agreed. Ended up in a bulkhead row seat.
Food was good; service was good. Seat reclined enough and leg rest elevated high enough so I was able to get some sleep.
I thought the service wasn't nearly as "refined" as I had experienced in Continental's "Business First" product to Paris last year but this certainly beats traveling in Economy and with the added bonus of no cheapskates sitting behind me whining about someone in front of them reclining their seat.
On-time arrival at Heathrow in Terminal 3 and the usual long walk to Immigration and baggage claim. Of course, everyone else going to London decided to arrive at the same time so it was the usual zoo atmosphere once I cleared Customs (a straight shot out the "Nothing to Declare" lane...does anybody actually watch that???).
Was able to shower and take my time changing clothes in United's excellent "Arrivals Lounge" and was soon at the Hertz counter to pick up the hire car.
I had a rather long "discussion" at the counter about not being charged in Dollars. Hertz continues with the dynamic currency conversion number to include written language in the rental agreement which clearly states you are agreeing to be charged in your own currency. I refused then and stated I would keep refusing until they agreed to charge me in local currency which they finally did...but it took some doing.
I had brought along my own GPS (a Magellan Roadmate 760) which at first couldn't acquire the satellites. I finally ended up attaching the exterior antenna and then it worked like a charm.
I like using my GPS in Europe but I also bring along maps as a back-up. For the UK, I have found the A-Z maps to be excellent. I also know that if I pick "shortest distance" as an option I'll often end up on the very "backest" of back roads...great for tooling around the countryside.
As some of you may recall I had decided to attend the funeral for Ben Haines which was scheduled for 10:30 AM. I left Hertz a little before 9:00 AM thinking I had enough time and the adventure with driving in London traffic began in earnest!
The GPS took me right into the traffic which after getting close to the city itself was very slow. I was also getting closer and closer to the "congestion zone" but at the very edge of it the GPS directd me to turn off.
Nobody was "on the horn" like they would have been in a similar US city traffic situation. However, here's what <b>was</b> "interesting" in two-way situations: motorcyclists heading in the opposite direction and often doing so in <b>my lane</b> and then giving me evil looks when I refused to move over for them (since I coulnd't anyway). Between that and the usual motorcycle "between the lanes" tactic which seems to be universal and finding myself more than once caught behind a Transport for London bus there were no major mishaps.
I got to the church with exactly five minutes to spare and have reported about the funeral on another, earlier thread.
After the service I had a fairly easy time navigating out of the city (despite a couple of "no left turn" situations the GPS didn't know about and the resulting, "When possible, make a legal U-turn" responses) and was soon on my way to Norwich for my afternoon appointment.
I stopped off along the A-11 to get a bite to eat and ended up at one of those Burger Kings where the fries were terrible and there was no place to pee (at least that I could find) so I resorted to a furtive whiz behind the dumpsters in back) and was soon on the way again.
A word about the car: it was a Ford Focus with automatic transmission. I drive a stick at home but have the wherewithall to afford not having to learn to shift with my left hand when driving in the UK. I got what I felt was an excellent deal through BA Holidays which was cheaper than my usual AutoEurope strategy; I called them and they could not even begin to match the rate.
More later today...
Apr 24th, 2007 | 02:06 AM
#6
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 17,268
Likes: 0
" I assume on a rental car it's added to your bill?"
It could be, but don't let it happen, because you'll be charged a penal rate. Either before you start the journey (but only once you know the car's licence number), or before midnight on the day you've gone through the boundary, go to any convenience store within 100 miles of London, or to www.cclondon.com.
There's a small surcharge for paying the next day, but then it starts getting nasty
It could be, but don't let it happen, because you'll be charged a penal rate. Either before you start the journey (but only once you know the car's licence number), or before midnight on the day you've gone through the boundary, go to any convenience store within 100 miles of London, or to www.cclondon.com.
There's a small surcharge for paying the next day, but then it starts getting nasty
Apr 24th, 2007 | 02:25 AM
#7
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,269
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That's an interesting point that hadn't occurred to me: presumably a decent car hire company would make a point of asking you if you're going into the zone, and offer to make the payment for you (and add it to the bill).
Or am I presuming too much on "customer service" bearing mind the DCC problem in this case?
Or am I presuming too much on "customer service" bearing mind the DCC problem in this case?
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Apr 24th, 2007 | 03:05 AM
#9
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 17,268
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Presumably a decent car hire company would make a point of asking you if you're going into the zone, offer to make the payment for you (and add it <b> together with a modest wee service charge </b> to the bill). And, since they've no idea how long you'll be in the zone for, they'll do all that retrospectively, so you'll pay the highest possible rate.
A gift horse which, if offered, most certainly needs its mouth inspecting with your most powerful (and sceptical) magnifying glass.
A gift horse which, if offered, most certainly needs its mouth inspecting with your most powerful (and sceptical) magnifying glass.
Apr 24th, 2007 | 03:19 AM
#10
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 17,549
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Allow me to clarify a couple of points before moving on.
First of all, I am sure that taking a pee in public is totally illegal but since nobody saw it behind that container which you call what you will (and yes, Annhig, I purposely chose the <b>biggest</b> container since there was oh, so much to hide) I figured life in Britain would go on and apparently it has.
But one is always appreciative of being "reminded" of local laws and customs although I am still wondering how I missed the loo location at that Burger King.
As to the congestion charge.
Hertz said absolutely nothing about it but then again they also didn't ask me what my itinerary was.
Regardless of the GPS directions had it steered me <b>into</b> the congestion charge zone I would have gone in another direction and waited for an automatic re-route by the GPS.
Overall, other than those things mentioned earlier I didn't think driving in London...at least the parts I actually drove in...was all that bad despite the slow-moving traffic. It was a blessing <b>not</b> to have to listen to a bunch of senseless horn-blowing which undoubtedly would have been ubiquitous in comparable U.S. locations.
First of all, I am sure that taking a pee in public is totally illegal but since nobody saw it behind that container which you call what you will (and yes, Annhig, I purposely chose the <b>biggest</b> container since there was oh, so much to hide) I figured life in Britain would go on and apparently it has.
But one is always appreciative of being "reminded" of local laws and customs although I am still wondering how I missed the loo location at that Burger King.
As to the congestion charge.
Hertz said absolutely nothing about it but then again they also didn't ask me what my itinerary was.
Regardless of the GPS directions had it steered me <b>into</b> the congestion charge zone I would have gone in another direction and waited for an automatic re-route by the GPS.
Overall, other than those things mentioned earlier I didn't think driving in London...at least the parts I actually drove in...was all that bad despite the slow-moving traffic. It was a blessing <b>not</b> to have to listen to a bunch of senseless horn-blowing which undoubtedly would have been ubiquitous in comparable U.S. locations.
Apr 24th, 2007 | 03:36 AM
#11
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Joined: Jun 2006
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Continuing on a bit....
I decided to stay at the Old Rectory hotel in Norwich which is loacted in Thorpe St. Andrew on Yarmouth Road.
Although some might call it a "B+B" in that it is located in a private home of sorts(although the owners live in a separate building on the grounds) it does have a restaurant with its own chef.
I've stayed here once before and this stay was just as satisfying. Rooms are good-sized with excellent en suite facilities; there's wi-fi connectivity and a pool (not yet open). More on the meals later.
After checking in I went off for my appointment which lasted a couple of hours and then returned to the hotel for a nap and dinner in.
Before dinner I had a drink with one of the other guests, a private consultant who lives in Bristol.
This was her first time in Norfolk which she described as being "a place which is totally out of the way and a lot of people wouldn't dream of visiting."
One of her rationales for this was that, "None of the major roadways run over here; they don't criss-cross from East to West and West to East like they do in the States; they all pretty much go North and South."
This reminded me of someone here at home (who is originally from the UK) i spoke with at a recent cocktail party. When I mentioned I would be in Norwich/Norfolk <b>for a whole week</b> I got this look of absolute consternation and the rather condescending question, "Why on earth would you go <b>there</b>?"
Gee, sorry my tastes in folks and countryside aren't the same as yours but I'm happy with my decision.
Dinner at the Old Rectory is always a delight. I had the best split pea/spinach soup combination to start off which was followed by a roast chicken accompanied by roasted root vegetables/new potatoes/small onions and some broccoli. Dessert was a chocolate souffle accompanied by the absolutely thickest sweet cream ever.
A wonderful way to end the day and get ready for the next.
I decided to stay at the Old Rectory hotel in Norwich which is loacted in Thorpe St. Andrew on Yarmouth Road.
Although some might call it a "B+B" in that it is located in a private home of sorts(although the owners live in a separate building on the grounds) it does have a restaurant with its own chef.
I've stayed here once before and this stay was just as satisfying. Rooms are good-sized with excellent en suite facilities; there's wi-fi connectivity and a pool (not yet open). More on the meals later.
After checking in I went off for my appointment which lasted a couple of hours and then returned to the hotel for a nap and dinner in.
Before dinner I had a drink with one of the other guests, a private consultant who lives in Bristol.
This was her first time in Norfolk which she described as being "a place which is totally out of the way and a lot of people wouldn't dream of visiting."
One of her rationales for this was that, "None of the major roadways run over here; they don't criss-cross from East to West and West to East like they do in the States; they all pretty much go North and South."
This reminded me of someone here at home (who is originally from the UK) i spoke with at a recent cocktail party. When I mentioned I would be in Norwich/Norfolk <b>for a whole week</b> I got this look of absolute consternation and the rather condescending question, "Why on earth would you go <b>there</b>?"
Gee, sorry my tastes in folks and countryside aren't the same as yours but I'm happy with my decision.
Dinner at the Old Rectory is always a delight. I had the best split pea/spinach soup combination to start off which was followed by a roast chicken accompanied by roasted root vegetables/new potatoes/small onions and some broccoli. Dessert was a chocolate souffle accompanied by the absolutely thickest sweet cream ever.
A wonderful way to end the day and get ready for the next.
Apr 24th, 2007 | 03:41 AM
#12
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,654
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Dukey - taking a pee-pee out of sight is better than what we see daily here in Africa! They take out the paraphernalia for the 'relieving' anywhere, anytime, and in full view. Being discreet in an emergency is fine by me.
Looking forward to the rest of your trip report.
Looking forward to the rest of your trip report.
Apr 24th, 2007 | 04:11 AM
#15
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 519
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Dukey - as a female, I appreciate your making the attempt to hide behind the skip. Too often when I'm travelling in Germany, I'm treated to drivers just standing on the side of the road, letting it all hang out... I've heard it's legal, as long as you're facing away from the road (which is fine, unless you're driving up along side - or crawling along in traffic). You wouldn't mind - but there are rest areas there about every 1/2 mile...
Apr 24th, 2007 | 04:21 AM
#16
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 17,549
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I spent the next couple of days simply wandering around Norfolk with my camera.
It was nice to get up early in the morning and have breakfast while reading through one of several local papers available.
The breakfast offering in the hotel is pretty complete with fruit juice, cereal, yoghurt, toast, eggs to order, coffee, tea, etc. Nice and slow and quiet with plenty of time to linger over the second or third cup.
The weather was, in a word, wonderful.
Some will tell you that "Norfolk is the dryest country" although others will quickly tell you they've had more than their share of rain.
Last week it was in the 60's every day and every day was at least partly sunny if not almost totally clear, especially as the days wore on.
I suppose some reasons why I like this area are because of places like The Broads where you can easily rent a boat or a canoe and make your way down some quiet tributary.
For this trip I only made a brief stop in Wroxham which was plenty busy even during the week and at a time that some might consider "early in the season."
I enjoy just wandering into "ordinary" stores such as Roy's (who has undoubtedly made some sort of fortune from shopkeeping in this town) and people-watching, checking prices (ouch!) and spending money on souvenirs for my arcane-loving friends back home.
In other words, there really isn't any travel agenda as such...it is just nice to <b>be there</b> and, frankly, a little aimless...what a luxury in this day and age.
I decided to explore the coast between Great Yarmouth and Cromer so my plan was to drive north and keep turning right at every opportunity (the GPS was turned off) and use mechanical means only if I got completely lost.
People ask about "hidden gems"...mine are those little places like Horsey and Scratby, Hemsby and Eccles-on-Sea.
<b>Nobody</b> much talks about them: they aren't the Cotswolds; they aren't necessarily "drop dead gorgeous" and so forth but they are "out there" amidst that low and sometimes marshy ground interspersed with those rolling hills and the wonderful fields full of rapeseed in brilliant yellow bloom; the daffodils still pretty to look at; the hedgerows getting greener.
The beach, especially if you can access it without having to pay to park, wqonderfully lonely and deserted.
I discovered a wonderful old church at Waxham with remnants of Danish architectural features; beautifully quiet inside and with an unlocked pipe organ which, while totally tubby and somewhat out of tune nonetheless made the stop memorable.
Then again the wonderful independently-run lighthouse at Happisburgh which rises up rather dramatically from a plowed field at the edge of the sea between the town itself and the water.
And the church in Happisburgh itself with its commanding view of the sea and its windswept graveyard. Inside I had a delightful conversation with a woman who has been "doing the flowers for years" and remembers German WW II bombing raids.
So I meandered; stopping here to admire someone's garden; stopping there to browse through a small village's combination "convenience store" and post office. Looking at the seasid eplaces with their amusement venues, the "holiday cottages" all with those white "lace" curtains it appears and "holiday caravans" waiting for eager holiday-makers.
Not thinking (too much) about the exchange rate and "worrying" (needlessly) about whether or not there is going to be enough clearance between my side mirror and the one speeding toward me on that road with NO "verges!"
It was nice to get up early in the morning and have breakfast while reading through one of several local papers available.
The breakfast offering in the hotel is pretty complete with fruit juice, cereal, yoghurt, toast, eggs to order, coffee, tea, etc. Nice and slow and quiet with plenty of time to linger over the second or third cup.
The weather was, in a word, wonderful.
Some will tell you that "Norfolk is the dryest country" although others will quickly tell you they've had more than their share of rain.
Last week it was in the 60's every day and every day was at least partly sunny if not almost totally clear, especially as the days wore on.
I suppose some reasons why I like this area are because of places like The Broads where you can easily rent a boat or a canoe and make your way down some quiet tributary.
For this trip I only made a brief stop in Wroxham which was plenty busy even during the week and at a time that some might consider "early in the season."
I enjoy just wandering into "ordinary" stores such as Roy's (who has undoubtedly made some sort of fortune from shopkeeping in this town) and people-watching, checking prices (ouch!) and spending money on souvenirs for my arcane-loving friends back home.
In other words, there really isn't any travel agenda as such...it is just nice to <b>be there</b> and, frankly, a little aimless...what a luxury in this day and age.
I decided to explore the coast between Great Yarmouth and Cromer so my plan was to drive north and keep turning right at every opportunity (the GPS was turned off) and use mechanical means only if I got completely lost.
People ask about "hidden gems"...mine are those little places like Horsey and Scratby, Hemsby and Eccles-on-Sea.
<b>Nobody</b> much talks about them: they aren't the Cotswolds; they aren't necessarily "drop dead gorgeous" and so forth but they are "out there" amidst that low and sometimes marshy ground interspersed with those rolling hills and the wonderful fields full of rapeseed in brilliant yellow bloom; the daffodils still pretty to look at; the hedgerows getting greener.
The beach, especially if you can access it without having to pay to park, wqonderfully lonely and deserted.
I discovered a wonderful old church at Waxham with remnants of Danish architectural features; beautifully quiet inside and with an unlocked pipe organ which, while totally tubby and somewhat out of tune nonetheless made the stop memorable.
Then again the wonderful independently-run lighthouse at Happisburgh which rises up rather dramatically from a plowed field at the edge of the sea between the town itself and the water.
And the church in Happisburgh itself with its commanding view of the sea and its windswept graveyard. Inside I had a delightful conversation with a woman who has been "doing the flowers for years" and remembers German WW II bombing raids.
So I meandered; stopping here to admire someone's garden; stopping there to browse through a small village's combination "convenience store" and post office. Looking at the seasid eplaces with their amusement venues, the "holiday cottages" all with those white "lace" curtains it appears and "holiday caravans" waiting for eager holiday-makers.
Not thinking (too much) about the exchange rate and "worrying" (needlessly) about whether or not there is going to be enough clearance between my side mirror and the one speeding toward me on that road with NO "verges!"
Apr 24th, 2007 | 05:26 AM
#17
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 17,268
Likes: 0
No-one could possibly describe Roy's of Wroxham as an "ordinary" shop. Any more than Bakers and Larners in Holt, a few (!) miles up the road.
Since much of Norfolk isn't so much off the beaten track as hardly has a track to beat, many of its shops haven't yet been undermined by the major chains. Although rarely the dreams of thatched roof seekers, its towns often feel like towns used to before the cloners moved in.
Since much of Norfolk isn't so much off the beaten track as hardly has a track to beat, many of its shops haven't yet been undermined by the major chains. Although rarely the dreams of thatched roof seekers, its towns often feel like towns used to before the cloners moved in.
