My Week in England Report!!!
Oct 30th, 2003 | 08:21 AM
#1
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My Week in England Report!!!
To all of you who helped me plan this trip, I thank you. Your advice was invaluable and helped make this trip unforgettable. So here it is my week in England:
Day 1: London
The flight on BA was great. My Dad and I had a row with just two seats so nobody to climb over us. The food was also very good on the flight. Actually got to London early only to sit on the tarmac for half hour waiting to park the plane. Anyway, Ray Skinner picked us up and took us to the Rubens Hotel. Really liked the Rubens, except our twin room a bit small. The Library restaurant at the hotel though was excellent. Would stay there again, as the location was outstanding right across from Royal Mews. The first day we saw the changing of the Guards at Buckingham Place, walked the Mall to Trafalgar Square, saw St. Martin-in-the Field church, walked down Whitehall saw the Royal Horseguards, went into the Banqueting house (impressive) before having lunch at the Clarence Pub. I Had the fish and chips and London Pride (Bitter) Ale, My dad had the Bangers and Mash (also London Pride). We saw (no tours) Parliament, Big Ben, Westminster Abbey before returning to Hotel for a nap. Woke up later and went to the Albert Pub for dinner. We loved this place. The history was palpable as we sat upstairs and had Roast Beef and Yorkshire Pudding. After Dinner we walked along the Thames up to Charing Cross then hit the Sherlock Holmes pub for one more pint before bed.
Day 2: London
Up early. BTW the breakfast buffet at Rubens is quite good, and I found I took quickly to the runny eggs and halved tomatoes. Hit Victoria tube to Tower of London (Bought ticket at the tube station). Crown Jewels, the Yeoman Warder tour. LOVED IT!!! My dad and I were both in awe as we stood where Ann Boelyn had her head taken. We headed to Ye Olde Chesire Cheese on Fleet street for lunch but too crowded. We looked around the place though, great history. Hit Ye Olde Bell instead for Steak and Guiness Pie, and Timothy Taylor Bitter Ale. After lunch we headed to St. Pauls. Toured the Cathedral and the crypt (wasn?t aware that the English buried so many people in their churches). After we headed back to the hotel for another nap. Awoke, got dressed and headed to Rules for dinner. AMAZING! The ambience was everything everyone said it would be and the food was excellent. I had Foie Gras and the smoked Haddock with egg. My Dad had the oysters and then lamb chops. The treacle and sticky pudding for dessert were the best part. Walked a bit through Covent Garden after back to hotel.
Day 1: London
The flight on BA was great. My Dad and I had a row with just two seats so nobody to climb over us. The food was also very good on the flight. Actually got to London early only to sit on the tarmac for half hour waiting to park the plane. Anyway, Ray Skinner picked us up and took us to the Rubens Hotel. Really liked the Rubens, except our twin room a bit small. The Library restaurant at the hotel though was excellent. Would stay there again, as the location was outstanding right across from Royal Mews. The first day we saw the changing of the Guards at Buckingham Place, walked the Mall to Trafalgar Square, saw St. Martin-in-the Field church, walked down Whitehall saw the Royal Horseguards, went into the Banqueting house (impressive) before having lunch at the Clarence Pub. I Had the fish and chips and London Pride (Bitter) Ale, My dad had the Bangers and Mash (also London Pride). We saw (no tours) Parliament, Big Ben, Westminster Abbey before returning to Hotel for a nap. Woke up later and went to the Albert Pub for dinner. We loved this place. The history was palpable as we sat upstairs and had Roast Beef and Yorkshire Pudding. After Dinner we walked along the Thames up to Charing Cross then hit the Sherlock Holmes pub for one more pint before bed.
Day 2: London
Up early. BTW the breakfast buffet at Rubens is quite good, and I found I took quickly to the runny eggs and halved tomatoes. Hit Victoria tube to Tower of London (Bought ticket at the tube station). Crown Jewels, the Yeoman Warder tour. LOVED IT!!! My dad and I were both in awe as we stood where Ann Boelyn had her head taken. We headed to Ye Olde Chesire Cheese on Fleet street for lunch but too crowded. We looked around the place though, great history. Hit Ye Olde Bell instead for Steak and Guiness Pie, and Timothy Taylor Bitter Ale. After lunch we headed to St. Pauls. Toured the Cathedral and the crypt (wasn?t aware that the English buried so many people in their churches). After we headed back to the hotel for another nap. Awoke, got dressed and headed to Rules for dinner. AMAZING! The ambience was everything everyone said it would be and the food was excellent. I had Foie Gras and the smoked Haddock with egg. My Dad had the oysters and then lamb chops. The treacle and sticky pudding for dessert were the best part. Walked a bit through Covent Garden after back to hotel.
Oct 30th, 2003 | 12:38 PM
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Day 3: London to York
Up early. Cab to Kings Cross. Train to York. The GNER first class ride was very posh. We really enjoyed the train trip, and it was only two hours. York for history lovers is a must. We LOVED it! We toured the York Minster (Audio tour?my Dad really loved these). Amazing to see all the different churches built on this site from Roman fortress to Saxon, to Norman. Then we hit the Shambles. Had Afternoon tea at the Earl Grey Tea Rooms. Whew! Who knew afternoon tea would be so much food (Egg and Cress sandwiches, scones with clotted cream, and the cake) Walked the old city walls and the river Ouse before getting the train back to London. Had Dinner at the Library Restaurant at the Rubens and as I said before it was fantastic. I had truffle risotto and my dad had salmon and both were outstanding.
Day 4: London
Westminster abbey by 10a for a full tour (audio). Wow! The history and all the dead kings?crazy! Then we took a cab to the Grenadier Pub in Knightsbridge. This was maybe my favorite Pub. Several hundred years old and the old mess hall for the Duke of Wellington?s officers or ?Wellies.? Talk about history it still has the original pewter topped bar. Dad had Courage and I had Hog?s back to drink. After lunch hit Harrod?s for some souvenir shopping then headed back to the hotel to rest and change into shirt and tie. Next it was Brown?s Hotel for 5:30 p seating of Afternoon Tea. This is a bit expensive, but I HIGHLY recommend you splurge and do it. The drawing room was just what I expected. It was tradition and snobbery the way I love it. After eating many finger sandwiches, scones, goodies, and cake, we couldn?t move much less eat again until morning. Quite an experience.
Day 5: Salsibury & Castle Combe
Ray Skinner picked us up at 8a. Took us to Heathrow where we picked up our rental car. Began our drive south west to Salsibury. Driving on that first day, on the other side of the road was harder than I thought it would be. I side swiped a few orange cones coming out of Heathrow and hit a curb later. You just have a tendency to veer to the left without realizing. But after I got used to it, it was piece of cake. Headed to Salsibury. Toured the Cathedral which was quite impressive. Lunch at the Haunch of Venison Pub. My Dad had the Steak and Kidney pudding (eeek!) I tried it, and well?it was a bit strong. He loved it. I had Venison sausage and mash and we both had an ale that escapes me now. After lunch we went to Stonehenge. Did an audio tour and I must admit it was an awesome site and somewhat eerie. We then headed to the Manor House at Castle Combe, where we stayed for two nights. This place is incredible! Out of a story book. Our room was enormous as was our bathroom and our views over the 40 acres of grounds were breathtaking. This place is quite expensive, but if you can afford to splurge it's a getaway like no other. Had dinner in the Bybrook restaurant at the hotel. Awesome! Then we took tea in the drawing room and played chess, before going to bed.
More to come...
Up early. Cab to Kings Cross. Train to York. The GNER first class ride was very posh. We really enjoyed the train trip, and it was only two hours. York for history lovers is a must. We LOVED it! We toured the York Minster (Audio tour?my Dad really loved these). Amazing to see all the different churches built on this site from Roman fortress to Saxon, to Norman. Then we hit the Shambles. Had Afternoon tea at the Earl Grey Tea Rooms. Whew! Who knew afternoon tea would be so much food (Egg and Cress sandwiches, scones with clotted cream, and the cake) Walked the old city walls and the river Ouse before getting the train back to London. Had Dinner at the Library Restaurant at the Rubens and as I said before it was fantastic. I had truffle risotto and my dad had salmon and both were outstanding.
Day 4: London
Westminster abbey by 10a for a full tour (audio). Wow! The history and all the dead kings?crazy! Then we took a cab to the Grenadier Pub in Knightsbridge. This was maybe my favorite Pub. Several hundred years old and the old mess hall for the Duke of Wellington?s officers or ?Wellies.? Talk about history it still has the original pewter topped bar. Dad had Courage and I had Hog?s back to drink. After lunch hit Harrod?s for some souvenir shopping then headed back to the hotel to rest and change into shirt and tie. Next it was Brown?s Hotel for 5:30 p seating of Afternoon Tea. This is a bit expensive, but I HIGHLY recommend you splurge and do it. The drawing room was just what I expected. It was tradition and snobbery the way I love it. After eating many finger sandwiches, scones, goodies, and cake, we couldn?t move much less eat again until morning. Quite an experience.
Day 5: Salsibury & Castle Combe
Ray Skinner picked us up at 8a. Took us to Heathrow where we picked up our rental car. Began our drive south west to Salsibury. Driving on that first day, on the other side of the road was harder than I thought it would be. I side swiped a few orange cones coming out of Heathrow and hit a curb later. You just have a tendency to veer to the left without realizing. But after I got used to it, it was piece of cake. Headed to Salsibury. Toured the Cathedral which was quite impressive. Lunch at the Haunch of Venison Pub. My Dad had the Steak and Kidney pudding (eeek!) I tried it, and well?it was a bit strong. He loved it. I had Venison sausage and mash and we both had an ale that escapes me now. After lunch we went to Stonehenge. Did an audio tour and I must admit it was an awesome site and somewhat eerie. We then headed to the Manor House at Castle Combe, where we stayed for two nights. This place is incredible! Out of a story book. Our room was enormous as was our bathroom and our views over the 40 acres of grounds were breathtaking. This place is quite expensive, but if you can afford to splurge it's a getaway like no other. Had dinner in the Bybrook restaurant at the hotel. Awesome! Then we took tea in the drawing room and played chess, before going to bed.
More to come...
Oct 30th, 2003 | 12:40 PM
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Day 6: Castle Combe
Our plan was to see Bath and Lacock this day, but my Dad got a cold. So we decided to see the little village of Castle Combe, which is right out of a fairy tale. We had lunch at the pub in the village called the White Hart. We both had Ploughman?s lunches, which consist of some ham, cheddar or stilton, bread, and salad. Very filling and tasty. We both had Wadworth IPA to drink. They we headed back to the Manor and had afternoon tea by the fire. We then had some cognac at the bar, as we stared out at the rain. (BTW it only rained one day in ten). We ordered room service that night and went to bed early. This place was really awesome! I felt like I was living in the someone's 14th century castle.
Day 7: Chipping Campden
Up early and headed north through the Cotswolds to Chipping Campden. Wow! All I can say is that these Cotswolds towns are special. If you love history you can?t miss them. It?s like being immediately transported back into the 15th century. We checked into the Noel Arms. Beautiful little coaching inn that King Charles actually stayed at after losing to Cromwell. But I will say this hotel was the lowlight overall on the trip. The hotel was understaffed and the staff they had was very young. They seemed unhappy and les affair. One night the bartender in the cute little pub had all his friends there and it was a loud party of 21 year olds. You couldn?t get to the bar to order food, and the lounge tables were a mess. We had room service bought up, but our food was cold. I would not stay here again. Chipping Campden however is gorgeous. We saw St. James church and the Market Hall. We had lunch at the Eight Bells Inn. Talk about and old pub?wow! We had Hook Norton IPA to drink.
Day 8: Cotwolds
At 9:30a Genny from Tour Gems picked us up at the hotel for a our day tour of the Cotswolds. She was fabulous. I highly recommend her. We saw Stow on Wold, Bourton on the Water, Burford, Bibury, Stanton, The Slaughters, The Roman Villa at Yanworth, and an old Saxon church in one of the villages. Her knowledge is shocking. I know quite a bit of history and there was not one question she could not answer. She took us into churches and knew everyone who was buried there, who designed what, and the time periods for each style. My Dad and I really enjoyed the personal tour.
Day 9: Blenheim and Windsor
We checked out of the Noel Arms and after doing some wool shopping in Chipping Campden, we drove south to Woodstock and Blenheim Palace. We took a full tour of the palace, which is very impressive and then walked the gardens. From there we drove to Windsor where we checked into to the Sir Christopher Wren House. Beautiful Hotel! From 1676, it was actually his home. We had a great room looking out at the Castle. We took afternoon tea downstairs, and then went to see the Castle. It was too late for a tour so we explored every inch of the cute little town, and the great park and then headed back to the hotel. We ordered room service for our last night and sat and recounted our whole trip. We headed back to NY the next morning.
Amazing trip?I will return!!!
Thanks Elaine...probably should have figured that out myself!
Our plan was to see Bath and Lacock this day, but my Dad got a cold. So we decided to see the little village of Castle Combe, which is right out of a fairy tale. We had lunch at the pub in the village called the White Hart. We both had Ploughman?s lunches, which consist of some ham, cheddar or stilton, bread, and salad. Very filling and tasty. We both had Wadworth IPA to drink. They we headed back to the Manor and had afternoon tea by the fire. We then had some cognac at the bar, as we stared out at the rain. (BTW it only rained one day in ten). We ordered room service that night and went to bed early. This place was really awesome! I felt like I was living in the someone's 14th century castle.
Day 7: Chipping Campden
Up early and headed north through the Cotswolds to Chipping Campden. Wow! All I can say is that these Cotswolds towns are special. If you love history you can?t miss them. It?s like being immediately transported back into the 15th century. We checked into the Noel Arms. Beautiful little coaching inn that King Charles actually stayed at after losing to Cromwell. But I will say this hotel was the lowlight overall on the trip. The hotel was understaffed and the staff they had was very young. They seemed unhappy and les affair. One night the bartender in the cute little pub had all his friends there and it was a loud party of 21 year olds. You couldn?t get to the bar to order food, and the lounge tables were a mess. We had room service bought up, but our food was cold. I would not stay here again. Chipping Campden however is gorgeous. We saw St. James church and the Market Hall. We had lunch at the Eight Bells Inn. Talk about and old pub?wow! We had Hook Norton IPA to drink.
Day 8: Cotwolds
At 9:30a Genny from Tour Gems picked us up at the hotel for a our day tour of the Cotswolds. She was fabulous. I highly recommend her. We saw Stow on Wold, Bourton on the Water, Burford, Bibury, Stanton, The Slaughters, The Roman Villa at Yanworth, and an old Saxon church in one of the villages. Her knowledge is shocking. I know quite a bit of history and there was not one question she could not answer. She took us into churches and knew everyone who was buried there, who designed what, and the time periods for each style. My Dad and I really enjoyed the personal tour.
Day 9: Blenheim and Windsor
We checked out of the Noel Arms and after doing some wool shopping in Chipping Campden, we drove south to Woodstock and Blenheim Palace. We took a full tour of the palace, which is very impressive and then walked the gardens. From there we drove to Windsor where we checked into to the Sir Christopher Wren House. Beautiful Hotel! From 1676, it was actually his home. We had a great room looking out at the Castle. We took afternoon tea downstairs, and then went to see the Castle. It was too late for a tour so we explored every inch of the cute little town, and the great park and then headed back to the hotel. We ordered room service for our last night and sat and recounted our whole trip. We headed back to NY the next morning.
Amazing trip?I will return!!!
Thanks Elaine...probably should have figured that out myself!
Nov 3rd, 2003 | 03:37 AM
#7
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Glad you enjoyed the report! I used GNER from Kings Cross Station in London to York. Their website is www.gner.co.uk. I used my Fodors "Great Britain" book for York and it was great. There may be more detailed books on this city, but Fodors was excellent and we didn't miss much. Have fun!
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Nov 3rd, 2003 | 12:38 PM
#9
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LJW - You're trip report brought back fond memories. I also visited Castle Combe, Salisbury and Stonehenge on my trip last January.
My sister and I fell so in love with Salisbury (we stayed for 1 1/2 days), that we dreamed of buying property there.
Glad you had a great trip!
Karen
My sister and I fell so in love with Salisbury (we stayed for 1 1/2 days), that we dreamed of buying property there.
Glad you had a great trip!
Karen
Nov 4th, 2003 | 05:40 AM
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Erin, the Rubens is a very nice hotel. The Palace lounge is wonderful for teas as it looks out at the Royal Mews. The bar and restaurants are also wonderful and charming. The staff was great as well, and very helpful for directions and reservations. Like I said my only complaint, if you could call it that was the size of our twin room. It was fine, but not very spacious. The bathroom was very nice though, and a very good size. I would request upon check-in one of their larger rooms. I have heard some are bigger than others. We wanted a view out the front and thus may have forfeited size. The rooms are very nice though. I liked the Rubens and would stay there again. Location is outstanding!
Kaudrey... I too loved Salsibury. What a quaint little village. The Cathedral was awe inspiring! If you liked Salsibury...you would LOVE York! Same vibe only more so! I miss England already..having trouble finding the same good ales back here in NYC.
Kaudrey... I too loved Salsibury. What a quaint little village. The Cathedral was awe inspiring! If you liked Salsibury...you would LOVE York! Same vibe only more so! I miss England already..having trouble finding the same good ales back here in NYC.
Nov 8th, 2003 | 09:39 AM
#11
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Oh yeah Erin...Not sure what you are paying at The Rubens, but definitely check their website for sales. We got our twin for 99 pounds per night. If you are going in January you might be able to get a similar deal on your room. Have fun!
Len
Len
Nov 8th, 2003 | 09:47 AM
#12
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Nov 8th, 2003 | 09:27 PM
#13
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Enjoyed your great report. We love the Rubens too so I'm checking out the other hotels you recommended out of London. We also enjoy Brown's tea [expensive but it can be your dinner!] and Rule's is really something to see, isn't it?
Nov 9th, 2003 | 09:52 AM
#14
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BTW I forgot one part of my report. The day we got to Chipping Campden, after lunch at the Eight Bells, we drove up to Warwick Castle. WE ABSOLUTELY LOVED THIS PLACE! We did the audio tour, and what an experience. We walked to the top of the highest tower, walked through the Dungeon, and the exhibit showing the wax figures prepping the troops for war. We also loved the late 19th century dinner party they showed off via wax figures. We found the wax figures to be well done and not cheesy. I highly recommend this place, it is so well preserved. Just walking throught the entrance transported us back to the days of the knights. Great stuff!
Ben...Thank you so much for all your advice. My Dad and I saw so much in London that we might have missed if you hadn't pointed them out when you reviewed my itinerary. We can't thank you enough. We loved England so much! We call each other everyday (I'm in NYC, my Dad is in Rhode Island) and complain that we miss our pub lunches and bitter ales.
Daph...Rules was an amazing expereinece as was Brown's. And although both are a bit pricey, I would sacrifice many other things to enjoy these wonderful English experiences. I am already thinking about my return, and which part of the country I will see next!
Cheers!
Len
Ben...Thank you so much for all your advice. My Dad and I saw so much in London that we might have missed if you hadn't pointed them out when you reviewed my itinerary. We can't thank you enough. We loved England so much! We call each other everyday (I'm in NYC, my Dad is in Rhode Island) and complain that we miss our pub lunches and bitter ales.
Daph...Rules was an amazing expereinece as was Brown's. And although both are a bit pricey, I would sacrifice many other things to enjoy these wonderful English experiences. I am already thinking about my return, and which part of the country I will see next!
Cheers!
Len
Nov 11th, 2003 | 08:35 PM
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Excellent report! You really packed quite a lot into a short period. Your father must be in good shape! I am heading back to the UK in the Spring and will definitely hit the Grenadier and the Albert based on your reviews. I too love historical pubs! Brown's and Rules are both favs of mine as well. Thanks for the memories!!!
Nov 12th, 2003 | 12:40 AM
#16
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I think the good folk of Salisbury or Sarum as it is also called would be intrigued to hear it called a quaint little village.
Do you know the following limerick?
There was a young curate of Salisbury
Whose manners were quite halisbury-scalisbury
He would wander round Hampshire
Without any pampshire
Til the bishop compelled him to walisbury
Do you know the following limerick?
There was a young curate of Salisbury
Whose manners were quite halisbury-scalisbury
He would wander round Hampshire
Without any pampshire
Til the bishop compelled him to walisbury
Nov 12th, 2003 | 04:34 AM
#18
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LJW17, What a super report. Are you the same person who was Len in fodor's pre-registration days and posted a bunch here a while back about a UK trip? History fanatics? Sounds like you and your Dad made the most out of every moment you spent in England!
Hey Syliva, Maybe you could get over being the phraseology police. Given how this guy raved about Salisbury, I'm sure the population would overlook him not referring to it as a city. Jeez. Nice limerick though.
Hey Syliva, Maybe you could get over being the phraseology police. Given how this guy raved about Salisbury, I'm sure the population would overlook him not referring to it as a city. Jeez. Nice limerick though.
Nov 12th, 2003 | 11:48 AM
#20
Joined: Nov 2003
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Yes, I am the Len who was on many months ago trying to gleen advice for my trip. It's amazing how much better my trips have been since I started planning with all of you wonderful Fodorites. Such a difference, and it makes the planning that much more fun! Thanks again!
Thanks for the kind words about the report! I hope everyone will enjoy England the way my father and I did.
Actually, I read 'Sarum' by Rutherford, and I think the folks from New Sarum would be surprised what I know about this ancient land. Being that it had a Cathedral you are right it would be a city. In any event it was lovely quaint.
I miss England!
Len
Thanks for the kind words about the report! I hope everyone will enjoy England the way my father and I did.
Actually, I read 'Sarum' by Rutherford, and I think the folks from New Sarum would be surprised what I know about this ancient land. Being that it had a Cathedral you are right it would be a city. In any event it was lovely quaint.
I miss England!
Len
