Hello everyone!
I'm planning a trip of about twelve days to Croatia, flying into and out of Dubrovnik from London with BA.
My partner and I are into no-fuss holidays. We don't like crowds and do like simplicity. I don't want to stay in large hotels that are used by tour groups. We'll hire a car.
So, where is good in Dubrovnik and beyond. I want to go to Split and then to an island, perhaps Hvar.
Our budget is $250 for bed and breakfast per night, but can go over that for a special place.
Interests are local history, local food, walking and relaxing!
Thanks in advance for your help.

Hi! I love Croatia and could go on and on about it for days on end (lucky for you I won't). We do not like hotels or resorts so always stay in B&Bs, sobes, farm stays, etc. Anyway, my husband and I normally do something like the following:

- fly to Zagreb, grab a rental car and head to Istria for about a week. We wander around the lovely little hilltowns of Hum, Bale, Groznjan, Gracisce, etc.
- drive to Plitvice Lakes - just breathtaking. This is a must-see in my opinion and warrants a full day or an overnight visit.
- drive to Zadar, spend the night, go to an island or two.
- drive down the coast for about a week and stay in Trogir (near Split) - a lovely little place. Then do islands again. We then head to Dubrovnik to finish our trip with a WOW.

A half-day trip to Pula is worth it for the amphitheatre and other ruins.

The north eastern part of the country is far less explored and is interesting but probably not for your first trip where you want to see the not-to-miss spots.

Our favourite islands are Vis and Mljet but also like Hvar (the town) and Korcula.

Glad to hear you are renting a car - driving and navigating in Croatia is very easy and convenient, especially for the north.

Nigello,
You didn't mention when you are going, but if it's the summertime do be prepared for serious crowds in places like Dubrovnik (especially when the cruise ships show up) and in Trogir which is as popular as it is small, and in any place that tourists have heard of

Like the previous poster, I love Croatia and I've been several times. I would agree with their recommendations but I would emphasize staying in or near Trogir and visiting Split only for the amount of time necessary to see Diocletian's Palace. If you forego the big hotels I would suspect that you'll be challenged to spend your 250 per night, unless of course you are after boutique hotels, but you don't seem like the type having emphasized simplicity.

I would also recommend Krka park for a good day trip, and like the previous poster, I'd recommend a visit to the Northeast although maybe not for your first trip...unless you find the crowds a bit of a drag. The Northeast receives relatively no tourism but does have a lot of charm in the way of regional cuisines, vineyards etc.

Thanks for your prompt response.
Do you have any names and addresses for good B and Bs? And how about an itinerary of sorts from Dubrovnik. I don't have the map of Croatia imprinted on my mind like I do those of other countries.
Thanks again,
Nigello

I should add that we are going in early September. This is my ideal time to go to mainland Europe (as well as May and June) because there are fewer people and the prices are cheaper.
We leave London on an early flight on 1st September and return on the 13th.

We just returned from our two week honeymoon to Croatia. Trip report coming soon.

I just wanted to mention that we really enjoyed Split. We stayed there for three nights and were very happy. We did a day trip to Hvar from there, which worked out great.

There is much history in Split, and though some seem to really dislike it, we were happy to have a stop there. After six nights in Dubrovnik (which was wonderful, don't get me wrong), it was a nice contrast. We also did a brief stop in Trogir, which was pretty, but similar to Dubrovnik in feel for us.

Just my two cents...

travel2live2 and global guy: When you refer to the northeast part of Croatia, are you referring to the are around Vukovar and Osijek, near the Serbian border? Your reference to this area has sparked my curiosity. What can you tell me about this area, and particular places to visit? I probably won't be able to get there this summer when I'll be spending more time near the coast, but I'm already thinking about areas to reserve for my next trip.

Yes, the area around Vukovar and Osijek; the region is called Slavonia.

If you go to the Croatian Tourism Board's website (http://www.htz.hr/English/default.aspx) you'll be able to search by region. The website is not THAT strong on the area but I've loked into some of the links and with some sleuthing, you'll learn more. I know that the Croatian Tourism Board prints some handy "theme" brochures which are available in Europe and I think they may have them in North America. You might call them and ask for all the info you can get regarding Slavonia. In particular the National Parks brochure and culinary brochures will give you idea about the region.

This link (www.tzzps.hr/en/tourism) will point you to many of the Slavonian wineries which as far as I know, is centered around Kutjevo.

Kopacki Rit (www.kopacki-rit.com), a park near Osijek, is one of the most intact, preserved wetlands in Europe and would be a good choice if you like the outdoors or have a passion for birdwatching.

Likewise Papuk is nice; (www.pp-papuk.hr)

The following links should be helpful as they link to the regional Slavonian tourism agencies.
www.tzbpz.hr
www.tzosbarzup.hr
www.tzvsz.hr


The following is a cut & paste summary from the Tourism Board website....

Slavonia and Baranja abounds with especially rich architectural heritage – castles and fortresses. A special place belongs to a castle with a wine cellar in Kutjevo which was part of the one time Jesuit estate. The castle in Donji Miholjac was constructed at the beginning of the last century in hunter’s style and represents a unique facility of its kind in Croatia and this part of Europe. The castle in Bilje which was left by Eugen Savojski was constructed in Vienna style. The Counts of Pejačević left their castle in Virovitica, Našice and Osijek as inheritance for new generations. In the one in Našice, which is one of the most beautiful, the diva of Croatian music Dora Pejačević composed music and a memorial room for her is open for visitors. Here too is the baroque castle of the Counts Noraman-Prandau in Valpovo with it park. The castle of the powerful family Eltz in Vukovar has only begun to be renovated after great war time devastation in the Homeland war, however even in the state it is now it still actively lives gathering together museum treasures of its region, special archaeological remains of Vučedol culture which is exalted by the Vučedol dove. The castle of the family Odescalchi in Ilok should also not be missed including its wine cellar and next to which are the most preserved authentic Turkish remains – Turkish domed burial sites and Turkish baths.

Finally, I would add that if you were headed to Slavonia, you might take the time to check out Novi Sad and even Belgrade in Serbia as well as Banja Luka in Bosnia. You'll be relatively close and they are worth a visit also.

Thanks for the amazingly helpful information, global guy. It's very much appreciated. I'm definitely putting Slavonia (and maybe Serbia, too) on the itinerary for my next trip.

I promised my host to let the people know about his apartments.
I have been there 5 times in the last 5 years, so that is the recommendation.
All I have to say is www.rentadriatic.com
The will tell you the rest.
And it is much less than you are planing to spend.
They have a new refurbished apartment in the old town perfect for two.

If you visit Korcula, do stay at www.rentadriatic.com

Hope you have a wonderful experience. In Dubrovnik we stayed at a B&B up from the expensive Hilton. It was like staying in someone's home and called Benussi and very reasonable. We also enjoyed renting a car and driving south into montenegro as well as going to the northeast and into Bosnia, visiting Mostar. The NY times has a great artilcle on Dubrovnic and I think it is still available online.

With its sublime stretch of Adriatic coast, Croatia has long been regarded as one of the most beautiful parts of Europe. I’ve been there a few years ago with the group. It was absolutely awesome, especially Adriatic See and Dubrovnik. Dubrovnik's best bit is the old town of Stari Grad, with its marble-paved squares, steep cobbled streets, tall houses, convents, churches, palaces, fountains and museums, all cut from the same light-colored stone. In the evening, relax on the terrace of the wonderful Café Troubadour. Sip a cocktail and melt into the mellifluence of the live soft jazz that gives those balmy nights a perfect sense of artistic completeness. You can stay a few days there and enjoy the beaches. Banje beach is well located and the most famous Dubrovnik pebble beach with a beautiful view to the Old town. It is a place to see and to be seen, where the rich and beautiful come to get some tan and the rest of the world comes to watch. Another nice spot is the Island of Lokrum, situated in front of the Old city, ten minutes pleasant sail by taxi boat from Dubrovnik. From the Old city port regular taxi boats run during Spring and Automn every hour and during the summer time every half and hour to the island. From Dubrovnik you can continue to Split, then Trogir. From there I would suggest you to go to Plitvice Lake, Bled and Zagreb. You can book this package with the Tour Operator and get their suggestions since they are certainly the experts. For the upscale and really interesting tour I recommend Isram World of Travel: www.isram.com. For the budget travelers: Kompas or Gate 1 Travel. You can also arrange a car rental through them.