Hi Fodors

Many years ago now, I decided to no longer own a car or drive. This is freeing in some ways and limiting in others. One consequence of this is that I am constrained in where I can go by bus, rail, ride share services and plane. Coming from Montreal, as a consequence, I have explored a number of VIA Rail destinations. With Smiths Falls this long weekend, I believe I have now explored the vicinity of every VIA Rail stop between Quebec City and Kingston (except Fallowfield which looks like a parking lot in suburban Ottawa). Smiths Falls was a trickier one in a way this long weekend as it requires one coming from Montreal to switch trains in Ottawa. My use of VIA Rail I think has gotten me exploring some of smaller town Ontario than many Montrealers do. And I’ve really come to appreciate small town Ontario for the relative peace, tranquility and friendliness, and each town I’ve visited while there’s a certain similarity, has a distinct personality. Cobourg has a beachy vibe, Kingston is grand with its limestone and importance as a former capital, with a magnificent fort and with Queen’s University. Gananoque has the 1000 Island scene, so does Brockville bit Brockville is bigger than Gan and has some quite grand homes due to the early 20th century/late 19th popularity of the town.

May 16th to May 18th—Montreal-Ottawa-Smiths Falls

*Smiths Falls*

Situated on the Rideau Canal connecting Ottawa to Kingston (on Lake Ontario), Smiths Falls which was formerly a location of powerful rapids that were tamed and where one can now find some impressively tall locks and some charming-looking lockmaster stations. Boat rental is available in Smiths Falls and according to my hotel manager, people (I guess with boating licenses?) do take advantage, cruising either Kingston-bound or Ottawa-bound. Parks surround the Rideau Canal on either side and on islands, making for a delightfully green and peaceful getaway.

The town had a certain importance being the hub of an important agricultural equipment company Frost & Wood beginning in the mid 19th century which I think is no longer in existence. I am told there were economic hard times although its proximity to Ottawa has to my understanding kept some money in Smiths Falls. The town has a bit more of a working class feel than some other locales I’ve been to in Southern Ontario, but not entirely.

The downtown is quite walkable and has some lovely stone churches and government buildings, as well as some appealing pubs and eateries. Much commercial activity is centered around Beckwith St in the downtown, with a bit on the blocks immediately surrounding on Main & Russell, although one will find places outside of this area.

*Eastern Ontario Railway Museum*

This was a highlight of my visit to the town. One can even stay at the museum as there are 3 cabooses that are rented as AirBnBs. An 1875 dining car with kitchenette brings one back to a bygone era of elegance in train travel. The dental car was fascinating, a railway car that brought dentists up to Northern Ontario, complete with dental equipment and accommodations for the dentist and spouse, as well as a waiting room, which would sit in a siding while it served northern communities, used up until 1977. They also have handcars for an extra $10 that you can ride with the assistance of a museum employee. Which I did do, good exercise!

Right now, enjoying my last few hours of daylight here as I watch swimmers diving into a sectioned off area of the Rideau Canal, enjoying the nice summer-like long weekend. Lots of Canadian goslings are nibbling on the grass surrounding under the watchful eyes of what I am assuming are father and mother goose.

Happy summer travels 2026! Daniel

There are Combined Locks in Smiths Falls, old kept for historic beauty and new kept for purpose

Geese and about a dozen goslings grazing on grass here. Boats to rent seen in distance at right.

Downtown Smiths Falls visible past the dam

Dining car from 1875. (With a few anachronisms)

Hand cart I helped propel. Good exercise!

Caboose accommodations for the night. Eastern Ontario Railway Museum.

Not hard to get
https://tc.canada.ca/en/marine-trans...r-card-pcoc#s2

Thanks for sharing this, Daniel. I loved the 1875 dining car shot. There are so many small and medium sized towns with interesting characters and history.

You are correct about the freeing/limiting aspects. Rhody and I either trained or took a local tour or driver on our trips across the pond.

Have you ever figured out how much you have saved not having a car?!

Daniel, your trip reports never disappoint.

I think your assessment of Fallowfield is accurate.

Thanks cdnyul, tdudette and AnselmAdorne!

For the return, I had a 3 hour layover in Ottawa and decided it would be a little dull to just wait at the Ottawa train station, catching the light rail instead into downtown where I had lunch at the Byward Market and admired the tulips at Major’s Hill Park right next to the Parliament buildings and overlooking the river. Spots I’d been to before but not a bad way to cap off the weekend. I could have opted for the 40 minute layover but decided against since I didn’t want to miss my connection—glad I didn’t as it was fun to see some favourite spots in Ottawa again.

Thanks for sharing. Your trip reports are informative and fun.

Thanks esm!

cdnyul-- That's interesting that the PCOC (Pleasure Craft Operator Card) for boaters is valid for life.
tdudette-- I know you too like exploring the small and medium sized towns; I think of your appreciation of Ashland VA or some MD destinations you have recommended to me. I find it a different sort of travelling than to the big cities or popular scenic destinations and not for everyone, but sometimes it's just what I'm in the mood for; as a plus, my eyes are often opened as a consequence of getting a glimpse of the history. In the early 20th century, for example, I learned tea from China and Japan was stored in warehouses in Smiths Falls due to its proximity to east coast markets, brought in by boxcars from the west coast. Also learned that an RCA Victor assembly in Smiths Falls pressed some of the first Beatles albums. As for savings not having a car, I haven't a clue!
Anselm--Passing Fallowfield again today', I was not dissuaded . I did realize though today that I had never gotten off also at Coteau or Charny (QC), which were listed as stops but I think are less regular.

I spent quite a bit of time in Charny when I was a child. My father worked for the CNR, based in Quebec City (we lived in Ste Foy), and the Charny station and railway yards were places he and his electricians worked. The railway name for the yards was Joffre, and I recollect a roundhouse and coaling tower there. I also have a vivid recollection of long lines of steam locomotives sitting in the yard on their way to be scrapped, so this would have been in the very early '60s, I think.

His was responsible for various things electrical (excluding signals) in the north and eastern part of the province, including the QRL&P (Quebec Railway Light and Power), which was the tram line that ran from Limoilou to Saint-Joachim, I think it was. It was finally shut down in the late '50s or early '60s.

You've stirred some interesting memories, Daniel.