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Switzerland - Bernese Oberland + Engadin; Italy ? Chiavenna + Milan ? Oct/2025

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Switzerland - Bernese Oberland + Engadin; Italy – Chiavenna + Milan – Oct/2025

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Old Jan 15th, 2026 | 02:17 PM
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Switzerland - Bernese Oberland + Engadin; Italy – Chiavenna + Milan – Oct/2025

After having to cancel this trip of Oct/2024 due to a fall (I had three fractures in my ankle four months before the trip) and having to wait one year to do it in the same season, here we are.

Now I’m 68 and DH 67 and Yes, we are thankful for our good fortune and good health, to be able to travel again. In May 2025 when we went to England and Scotland for 17 days, we used Rabbie’s for two 4-day-tours. But I can walk and hike, not the way I used to before, but I am ok and love the mountains, valleys, forests, villages, art, architecture, and this is what this trip was about.

I had been in Switzerland just on a day trip to Montreux when we stayed in Annecy on a 2010 trip. DH had been in Luzern on a work trip.

For this trip my goal was the Swiss Alps to visit the Bernese Oberland, the Engadin and Chiavenna in Italy. So, after reading many great trip reports from Adelaidean and melnq8 I got inspired to define an itinerary. I also need to thank Progol and KarenWoo (for the Milan part), Ingo, neckervd, and others from Fodor’s for the good information and ideas they provided.

We flew with United – RIC-IAD-ZRH and back MXP-EWR-RIC - $1,875.42economy for both.

ITINERARY: Sep 30 to Oct 17 / 2025

Wengen – 4 nights - Hotel Alpenrose Wengen (half-board included)

Meiringen – 1 night - Victoria- Alpine Boutique Hotel

Luzern – 1 night - Altstadt Hotel Krone Luzern

Sils Maria – 4 nights - Hotel Maria

Chiavenna – 3 nights - Villa Giade

Varenna – 1 night - Bed & Breakfast il Bolentino

Milan – 1 night - Hotel Gran Duca di York

Malpensa Airport area – 1 night - Cardano Hotel Malpensa


TRANSPORT:

-Saver Day Pass for travel from Luzern to Sils Maria – bought three months in advance for CHF 39.00 each – (HFC price)

-Half Fare Card – bought when we arrived at Zurich airport. CHF120 each.

-Our hotel in Sils Maria (Upper Engadin) also offered the Guest card for “Free use of the Upper Engadine mountain railways & free public transport in the Engadine and Bergell valleys as far as Chiavenna

Our 10-day train/bus journey (in Switzerland) costs using ½ fare card was 120CHF + 222.10CHF = 342.10CHF for each. It would have cost 480CHF each without the HFC.

The cost for train/bus/taxi (6 days) in Italy was US$137.

Oct 1 – Zurich to Wengen

Our flight out of Dulles was delayed departing for almost two hours and we arrived in Zurich after 9:30am.

After having to stay in line for some time at the SBB store to buy the half fare card and the tickets to Wengen (37CHF each) at the Zurich Bahnhofplatz, and also buying some sandwiches at the Coop for the ride, we were able to catch the 11:38 train via Luzern.

The weather was sunny, and we had a great scenic ride up to the mountains. After the Luzern connection, we took the R side seats of the train, and it was great to see Lake Lungern with the most spectacular shades of green I have ever seen. The view of other villages, lakes and mountains was stunning. The temperature in Wengen was in the low 50sF.

Lake Lungern from the train ride
Lake Lungern from the train ride



Lungern
Lungern

We arrived in Wengen at 3:40 pm and the shuttle from the Hotel Alpenrose was waiting to pick us up (had contacted them through their website advising the time of our arrival).

The hotel is in a great location (7 min walk from the station) and has a beautiful view of the mountains and valley. We opted for having half board (dinner addition was 20CHF per person/day) which was a great deal compared to the prices of the other restaurants. Dinner was in a stylish and cozy room served by attentive and nice waiters. A 4-course menu which varies every day. Very good!

After getting settled in our room we set out to explore the town. It was a beautiful sunny afternoon.

Wengen is a lovely small, car free mountain village, with an ideal location for taking hikes, easy access to other locations but away from the big crowds of Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald. From the Männlichen cable car in town, you can go for the wonderful Panorama walk to Kleine Scheidegg.

On the way back we stopped at the Coop to buy a few things and chocolate 😉. I loved the chocolate croissant of the Coops in Switzerland!

Wandering in Wengen
Wandering in Wengen

Wengen
Wengen

Then after refreshing and resting in our room we went down to the restaurant for our 7 pm dinner. We enjoyed everything and all the servers of the hotel are very friendly and helpful. Most of them are from Portugal.

It was a long but very good day, and we went to bed early as we had an early start the next morning. The weather forecasted a perfect sunny day for tomorrow, so we planned to do the Grindelwald-First to Bachalpsee Hike (lake). The receptionist of the hotel advised us to arrive in Grindelwald before 9:00 to try to avoid the crowds for the cable car. So, as we would have to take the 7:13 train from Wengen to Grindelwald (1h8m), we would have to skip our first breakfast at the hotel. We bought some croissants at the Coop when we went out in the afternoon.


Oct 2 – Wengen - Grindelwald-First to Bachalpsee Hike

We left the hotel to go to the train station at 6:57am, bought the tickets (9.80 CHF each) and took the 7:13 train to Grindelwald-First. We were doing very well until we arrived at Grindelwald Bahnhof and had to connect – in 3min – to the bus stop B 123. Not being familiar with the connection, and having to ask for directions, we missed the bus.

As the next bus was in 20 minutes, we decided to buy a cup of coffee and wait. Later on, when we returned, we realized that we were just 5 to 6 minute-walk from the lift gondola station.

Well, those few minutes delayed were a big mistake… When we were crossing the street for the ramp of the gondola station, we saw a huge tour group running towards the ramp and formed a massive crowd for buying the tickets not respecting the others that were walking to the gondola station. We paid 36 chf each with HFC. So, we finally arrived there a few minutes before 10am.

At this time of the day, the lines of people for the gondola were big and they were putting as many people inside each cable car as possible. I put a mask on, but my husband didn’t have one. No wonder that two days later he started with a cough that took more than a month to heal and consequently it passed to me a few days later.

This is an unbelievably beautiful hike, and we had blue sky and no clouds all day long. And the view of Bachalpsee (lake) in those shades of green with the mountains sugar coated with snow is really something! It is considered an easy hike, but in a couple of spots where there was more incline of the path with lots of gravel, I had to hold my DH’s hand because my balance is affected by the issue of my ankle.

Grindelwald-First
Grindelwald-First

Grindelwald-First
Grindelwald-First







Hiking a paradise
Hiking a paradise

Bachalpsee (lake) in Grindelwald
Bachalpsee (Lake) in Grindelwald



Bachalpsee (lake)
Bachalpsee (Lake)

We took the gondola back to Grindelwald by 3:00 and shared a good Porcini-boscaiola pizza, a Foccacia alla Romana and coke at Hotel Steinbock / Pizzeria da Salvi (37.50 CHF).

Then we bought our train tickets back to Wengen (8.30 CHF each) but stopped in Lauterbrunnen for a quick visit.

Lauterbrunnen
Lauterbrunnen

Lauterbrunnen
Lauterbrunnen

Lauterbrunnen
Lauterbrunnen

Lauterbrunnen view from Wengen
Lauterbrunnen view from Wengen

Then we went back to the hotel for a rest and later had dinner at the hotel.
It was a fantastic day!


Menu of the this day.
Menu of the this day.

Dinner at the hotel. I have no pictures of the other plates.
Dinner at the hotel. I have no pictures of the other plates.

To be continued...
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Old Jan 15th, 2026 | 02:47 PM
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Along for the hike...and cheese buffet? Count me in.
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Old Jan 15th, 2026 | 03:02 PM
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Thanks for sharing. The Oberland is a place on my mind, but I've been put off by the crowds. Seems like even in October, it's an issue.
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Old Jan 15th, 2026 | 04:20 PM
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Oh my, what a treat, on my break and finding a Switzerland trip report !!

I love Wengen and Hotel Alpenrose, so glad you enjoyed it.
Perfect weather for your first day.

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Old Jan 15th, 2026 | 04:43 PM
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lovely to see. My daughter is sending photos now back from Zermatt ,the gornergrat bahn and Furi . Stunning
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Old Jan 15th, 2026 | 07:02 PM
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Wonderful TR, following along - I hope to revisit many of these places in the future.
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Old Jan 16th, 2026 | 01:08 PM
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-Hi Melnq8 - Thanks for following along! You will see that I took many notes from your reports 😊.

- tripplanner001 - Thanks for your comment. Out of the three days we were in this area, we had problems with crowds only when we went to Grindelwald – First. In the other places we hiked and took the trains, we didn’t see an issue.

-northie - Thanks for your comment! Switzerland is beautiful indeed.

-ANUJ – Thanks for your comments and following along!
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Old Jan 16th, 2026 | 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Adelaidean
Oh my, what a treat, on my break and finding a Switzerland trip report !!

I love Wengen and Hotel Alpenrose, so glad you enjoyed it.
Perfect weather for your first day.
Adelaidean – Happy to see your comment. I did enjoy the Hotel Alpenrose and Wengen, and I got the references from your TRs. Thanks!
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Old Jan 16th, 2026 | 01:27 PM
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leifields, SO BEAUTIFUL! Love the photos from the hike. We were in BO only 1.5 years ago and I miss it so much. And I cannot agree more with you about Lake Lungern! The shade of green is unbelievable. I took the same photos as you did on the train. In fact, in my TR I was asking other Fodorites if there are activities to do near there/around there, if it's possible to base oneself in lungern.

Looking forward to the rest
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Old Jan 16th, 2026 | 02:45 PM
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mjs
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It looks like you had great weather in the BO. We were at the Alpenrose for 5 nights in July and enjoyed our stay. The 20CHF dinner is the best deal ever for a nice meal in Switzerland, especially with nice half bottle of Swiss wine. We did not see many hikers on the mountain trails, only saw crowds in the valley.
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Old Jan 16th, 2026 | 02:45 PM
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Oct 3 – Wengen - Panorama walk to Kleine Scheidegg

Today we planned to do the Panorama walk to Kleine Scheidegg. It was a cloudy day, no rain, we could see the sun behind the clouds. The weather forecast had temperatures between 37F to 47F for the day.

We had a good breakfast at the hotel and before 9:30 we were out. We walked in ten minutes to Männlichen cable car in Wengen and bought our tickets for Wengen- Männlichen / Kleine Scheidegg-Wengen (30 chf each)

As I said, it was a cloudy day, but the pictures came out great, with a dramatic color of the sky and clouds. I loved this walk. We took 1h50min to complete the walk. Yup, lots of stops for pictures.

Wengen- Männlichen cable car station
Wengen- Männlichen cable car station
Panorama walk to Kleine Scheidegg
Panorama walk to Kleine Scheidegg


Panorama walk to Kleine Scheidegg
Panorama walk to Kleine Scheidegg
Beautiful views in this hiking
Beautiful views in this hiking
Hiking Männlichen to Kleine Scheidegg
Hiking Männlichen to Kleine Scheidegg
Hiking to Kleine Scheidegg
Hiking to Kleine Scheidegg
Eiger/Mönch peaks
Eiger/Mönch peaks
Hiking to Kleine Scheidegg
Hiking to Kleine ScheideggThen we found a Café at the Kleine Scheidegg station to have a delicious homemade apple strudel with coffee sitting on the terrace with a view.

We took the train back and were in Wengen before 2 pm and did some wandering around the town. Then we decided to have a picnic and went to the Coop to buy what we needed.

We found a small square with a table and seats not far from the hotel and enjoyed our meal. After that we did some more walking around to capture some more pictures of this lovely village.

Dinner was at the hotel.


Wandering around Wengen
Wandering around Wengen
Wandering
Wandering
Pretty flowers
Pretty flowers
Wengen
Wengen


Oct 4 – Wengen - Lauterbrunnen, cablecar to Grütschalp then walk to Mürren and Gimmewald

The sun was shining again today! We had our good breakfast in the hotel and went on to our last hike in this area.

We took the 9:41 train from Wengen to Lauterbrunnen (3.60 chf each) and from there we bought the ticket for the cable car Lauterbrunnen to Grütschalp (4.70 chf each)

It had rained during the night and with the early sun, all nature was vibrant, and the lush green of the grass and trees was a delight for the eyes.


At Grütschalp station
At Grütschalp station
At Grütschalp station
At Grütschalp station
Walking to Mürren
Hiking to Mürren
Walking to Mürren
Hiking to Mürren



Hiking to Mürren
Hiking to Mürren
Hiking to Mürren
Hiking to Mürren

We arrived in Mürren after a 1h20min walk. Then we took a break, ate our picnic food and went for a walk around the little village.

Mürren
Mürren
Walking around Mürren
Walking around Mürren
Walking around Mürren
Walking around Mürren
Walking around Mürren
Walking around Mürren
Walking around Mürren
Walking around Mürren


Soon after, we found the direction to go down to Gimmelwald. It was a narrow-paved-zigzag-road with stunning views of the deep valley formed by very tall mountains, waterfalls, farms… just wonderful! With so many stops for pics, it took us 40 minutes to get there.


Hiking to Gimmelwald
Hiking to Gimmelwald
Beautiful trail. Almost nobody here.
Beautiful trail. Almost nobody here.
An old lady taking care of her vegetable garden.
An old lady taking care of her vegetable garden.
Hiking to Gimmelwald
Hiking to Gimmelwald

Then we stopped at Pension Gimmelwald to have our lunch. It has a nice view of the valley.

Gimmelwald
Gimmelwald
Lunch at Pension Gimmelwald
Lunch at Pension Gimmelwald
Lunch at Pension Gimmelwald
Lunch at Pension Gimmelwald

At 2:30 pm we left to go back to Wengen. In 2 minutes, we walked to Schilthornbahn and bought the cable car ticket to Stechelberg (3.20 chf each) and then had to get the bus #141 from Stechelberg to Lauterbrunnen (2.30 chf each). From there we bought the train ticket to Wengen (3.60 chf each).

That was a perfect day and we loved the hike! In all the trails and paths we walked today we saw very few people.

Tonight is our last dinner at the hotel as tomorrow morning we leave for Meiringen.


Dinner at Hotel Alpenrose
Dinner at Hotel Alpenrose
Dinner at Hotel Alpenrose
Dinner at Hotel Alpenrose
Dinner at Hotel Alpenrose
Dinner at Hotel Alpenrose



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Old Jan 16th, 2026 | 10:53 PM
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We stayed in Wengen twice, so 12 nights in all.
First time I found it hard to ‘picture’ how it all fit together, then once you’ve done those epic walks and cablecars and it all makes sense, you can escape the crowds and do other walks or time it to beat the crush. The infrastructure is incredible, too.

Your dinner looks so delicious!
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Old Jan 17th, 2026 | 12:41 AM
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I am blown away by how beautiful your photos are! I am also enjoying spying on your menus and checking out the evening meal. It looks delicious. Are you a fan of Swiss food?

Lavandula
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Old Jan 17th, 2026 | 01:41 PM
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yk
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What beautiful weather you have! And the half-board is such a good deal!
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Old Jan 17th, 2026 | 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by yk
leifields, SO BEAUTIFUL! Love the photos from the hike. We were in BO only 1.5 years ago and I miss it so much. And I cannot agree more with you about Lake Lungern! The shade of green is unbelievable. I took the same photos as you did on the train. In fact, in my TR I was asking other Fodorites if there are activities to do near there/around there, if it's possible to base oneself in lungern.

Looking forward to the rest
- yk, thank you for your nice comments and following along. And I agree with you that Lake Lungern is stunningly beautiful. I had a plan to go there out of Meiringen as a side trip, but as the day was very cloudy and I didn’t see many options for restaurants I gave up.
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Old Jan 17th, 2026 | 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by mjs
It looks like you had great weather in the BO. We were at the Alpenrose for 5 nights in July and enjoyed our stay. The 20CHF dinner is the best deal ever for a nice meal in Switzerland, especially with nice half bottle of Swiss wine. We did not see many hikers on the mountain trails, only saw crowds in the valley.
-mjs – Thanks for reading along. Yes, Hotel Alpenrose is a perfect place to stay and Wengen is great as a base to visit the region being away from the crowds. And we were lucky with the weather!
leifields is offline  
Old Jan 17th, 2026 | 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Adelaidean
We stayed in Wengen twice, so 12 nights in all.
First time I found it hard to ‘picture’ how it all fit together, then once you’ve done those epic walks and cablecars and it all makes sense, you can escape the crowds and do other walks or time it to beat the crush. The infrastructure is incredible, too.

Your dinner looks so delicious!
Adelaidean – I agree. When I was planning and selecting the walks we should go and trying to understand the locations of each one on Google maps was not easy. We start to understand only when we get there. And on the last day, when we were waiting for the train for Meiringen, we entered the train station waiting room I saw these maps and could then see clearly where we had been!



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Old Jan 17th, 2026 | 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by lavandula
I am blown away by how beautiful your photos are! I am also enjoying spying on your menus and checking out the evening meal. It looks delicious. Are you a fan of Swiss food?

Lavandula
Lavandula – Thanks for your nice comments! I liked the Swiss food, especially the Grison buckwheat pizokel and capuns.
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Old Jan 17th, 2026 | 03:40 PM
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I'm enjoying following your report, leifields.... thanks for sharing your travels.
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Old Jan 18th, 2026 | 07:40 AM
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yk
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leifields, what I really enjoyed in that area of BO is the number of hikes available, of various lengths and difficulty that cater to people with different abilities. I have in procession of a hiking map that I got from 2010, and it was v helpful in terms of visualizing where places are, and also as a starting point to research the different hikes. The map only shows distances (by time) but not elevation. I haven't seen a similar map on my more recent trip (2024) though I also did not actively search for one while I was there.


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