Our adult family (all very experienced travelers), is (hopefully) headed to Japan this December/January and could use some itinerary assistance. I'm assuming this will be the first of several future trips there, so we are looking for a good, basic overview - a "taste of" - with the limited time we have. We are physically fit, and our trips tend to mix days immersed in cultural activities with days outdoors - hiking, etc. (although the weather might prohibit hiking?) Would love to mix some big city modernity and zippy-ness days with some quiet, authentic, cultural, small town-y flavored days. Currently at the spit balling stage.
Starter questions -
(1) Time frame is around December 27- January 9. I've read that things can be shut down due to the holidays. Is this a ridiculous time to be there? We have no flexibility in dates. We do not need to see every temple or tourist attraction and get enjoyment from exploring on foot, provided there are at least some places open to eat, etc. I'm assuming parts of Tokyo remain open. What about Kyoto?
(2) Any neighborhood suggestions on where to stay in Tokyo and Kyoto? Easy access to transportation, trains, metro, etc. is key. An abundance of dining options in the area (authentic, noodle houses, low frills, etc.) and would be great.
(3) Thoughts on Osaka? Is it just another big city? Or skip in favor of a small town for a different vibe (Tokyo and Kyoto are already big, and we'll be short on time - but maybe the winter weather will be an issue?)
(4) Is Shirakawa too difficult to get to during this time period due to weather? And is it even open? Looks amazing, but I've read it gets heavy snow.
(5) Is it possible to take day hikes on the Kumano Kodo or other historic trail, preferably where you can also walk through a small village- that will be open (holidays a problem)?
(6) Really interested in staying at least 2 nights in a traditional Japanese Ryokan - or something similar, preferably one that serves both breakfast and dinner (this is largely what makes Shirakawa so appealing!)
(7) Need to buy gifts - pottery (tea cups, small plates) and beauty products for friends - and myself! Any suggested stores for the haul?
We can't do all of this, but hopefully you get the vibe I'm going for!

Unfortunately, I can’t answer many of your questions, though I’ll offer what I can and hope someone else chimes in. If you haven’t already seen it, I recommend that you take advantage of Japan-guide.com – it’s a truly excellent resource.

(1) There is so much to see in both Tokyo and Kyoto that I can’t imagine being unable to plan around the holidays. The biggest problem would likely be New Years. Here’s the relevant page from Japan-guide.com: https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2276.html

(2) The area I prefer for lodging in Kyoto is near Gion and Pontocho; many people prefer to stay near Kyoto station. For Tokyo, I think it’s best to decide after you know what your priorities are so that you can choose something that makes sense in light of the relevant public transportation options.

(3) I chose to skip Osaka, though I’m sure I would enjoy it. It’s definitely urban. With the time frame you have and with Tokyo, Kyoto, and somewhere smaller as priorities, I’m not sure you’d have time for Osaka.

(4) I’m sure Shirakawa-go would be amazing in winter. It’s “open” – people live there! It generally gets quite a lot of snow, but I’m sure you can get there if it’s a priority.

(5) Hiking: https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2427.html

(6) Many people choose just one night in a ryokan because you are generally required to be there for both breakfast and dinner, making for a substantial time commitment. I have to say, I don’t think of Shirakawa-go as an area to go to experience a ryokan – that area is better known for its minshuku (farmhouses). You might consider a ryokan for one of your nights (or two) in Kyoto. You can search on booking.com or Japaneseguesthouses.com

(7) You last destination! No need to lug things around (though you can always use luggage forwarding and/or have things shipped home).

Hope that helps

This so helpful, thank you very much! I truly appreciate you taking the time to respond!!

1) back to normal on Jan 3, i think
2) Shinjuku
3) another big city
4) it is open. i stayed on Jan 6 or so years ago. The gassho-zukuri had snow boots for guests. There was only 4 feet of snow on ground when i was there. Aawesome time
5) @Mara can inform about Kumano
6) Shirakawago is where you can stay in a gassho zukuri (traditional farmhouse). They are minshuku not ryokan. I recommend you stay one night there and one night in a traditional ryokan elsewhere.

I suggest that your best access to Shirakawago would be from Kanazawa. You can find a traditional ryokan in a region south of that city. Can't think of the name of the region but is in Fukui/ishikawa prefefectures. @progol stayed there.

That part of Japan gets lots of snow because it is next to the Nihon Kai (Japan Sea)

Visiting Kanazawa would be a better idea than Osaka. City but not large, lots to offer.

I visited the Kumano area this past spring but I did not do any hiking other than climbing the numerous steps that were necessary to access most of the shrines. There are buses that go to the different ones. I'm sure you can find out about possible hikes in the area....

I think there might be better places to do a hike and visit a village such as the Kiso valley to see Magome and Tsumago which you can hike between but I did it in the spring and don't know about the winter weather there....

Thank you for these responses! I decided to forego Shirakawago and focus on the Kiso Valley instead, thanks you for the suggestion. It's pretty hard to find a place to stay, and the transportation to get there is a bit confusing (should I even bother with a pass?) - so I will write in a few days asking for some suggestions once I have lodging in the KV locked down better.

Almost certainly "no" on the pass.

I agree with mrwunrfl concerning the Japan Rail Pass which I assume is what you mean. Since they raised the price a couple of years ago it seems it often is not worthwhile. What does work, at least for me, often are the various regional passes from the different JR areas....

I went to the Kiso Valley area about 15 years ago and I accessed it from Nagoya.....but it is basically in between
Tokyo and Kyoto so there are varied ways to get there....

1. After 1-3 all should be back to normal
2. Shinjuku in Tokyo and Shimogyo ward in Kyoto
3. I for one on this site LOVE Osaka. Big city with a small town feel to it. All spread out over a large area and lots to do/eat/shop and see there.
4. It's open but will be really snowed in. Mrwnrfl will have stayed there.
5. Try the hikes in Hakone with you limited time in Japan. Close to Tokyo and you can daytrip there.
6.
7. You don't have time for the pottery villages in southern Japan on Kyushu but tor token gifts you can try Shijo Dori(street) in Kyoto and Kappabashi dori in Tokyo
https://www.kappabashi.or.jp/en/

Aloha!

oooops

6. https://www.takaragawa.com/english.html An easy shinkansen ride from Tokyo

I really liked staying right at Kyoto train station. There are easily 5-6 hotels right there. I wish we had been closer to a train station in Tokyo. Osaka: . We had under 24 hours and it wasn’t a must.