Trip Report London
Jun 14th, 2025 | 05:10 PM
#1
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 230
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Trip Report London
Trip Report London with Art
Hi everyone, just returned from a great trip to London, here’s my trip report:
I flew on British Airways because I like that I can use Avios points to upgrade from premium economy to business class and get a lie-flat seat. However, on the return, I was on a “reconfigured and updated” flight, and the new seats are hideously uncomfortable and smaller. I guess they are now upgrading (seriously downgrading!) their planes. It was so uncomfortable….I spoke to a flight attendant, and she said that she hears that a lot. So be aware.
My hotel was Hazlitts, near Soho Square (and Trafalgar Square). On a prior trip I stayed at the Rookery, located in Clerkenwell. I am fascinated by England’s history and wanted to be in the heart of a historic area. Clerkenwell has an amazing history spanning from the medieval period to the present day. So I enjoyed being at the Rookery (these two are sister hotels, both using historic buildings from the 1700s, whose interiors have been lovingly and carefully restored to retain as much of the history as possible). Both hotels are clearly historic buildings, but on this trip, I wanted to be more centrally located, thus Trafalgar Square. The hotel was wonderful, the beds are all 19th-century big heavy four-posters…so comfy, but they do not have any rooms with two beds.
The food menu for room service is a little limited, but the food is delicious. And their lattes are to die for!
The absolute best thing about Hazlitts was, without question, the staff. Every single person working there is personally invested in making sure your stay is as excellent as possible. They are all so lovely, I will stay there again. I highly recommend it. Walking distance to so many places!
On my first full day, I visited the National Portrait Gallery, the National Gallery, London, as well as St Paul’s Cathedral. One of the reasons I was in London on this trip was a special event at the National Gallery, and I wanted to prep for the event because the museum is huge. The National Portrait Gallery was wonderful. Its collection is over 220,000 portraits, spanning from the 8th century to the present day. The collection has a silver coin circa 887, going back to Aelfred known as 'Alfred the Great', who reigned from 871-99, for example. I mean…talk about your history! Also, a fantastic collection of the portraits from the Tudor era, the Stuarts, Georgian, and Victorian times. I am really interested in the Tudors and loved looking at these portraits. General admission is free.
Next up was the National Gallery. (I should explain I am a huge art fan – especially the Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque era). The museum is huge…. general admission is also free, but you should buy a timed ticket.
I was in London partially for a special event held at the National Gallery the following day (Thursday), which I’ll get into in a minute, so my goal was to see as much of the other paintings as I could. The event was a re-opening of the Sainsbury Wing, which has been closed for some time due to renovations. The Sainsbury Wing is largely dedicated to the 1200s through the 1500s. One painting I was anxious to see was the Wilton Diptych (a rare English panel painting which survives from the Middle Ages. It was created for Richard II, who was King of England from 2377 to 1399. Absolutely stunning. (https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/p...wilton-diptych) So, on the day before the tour, I spent time seeing everything else. What a spectacular museum. The bookstores (especially the main one with all the books) lured me into them for a good amount of time.
Later that day I visited St Paul’s Cathedral, for which we also had a timed entry ticket.Old St Paul’s was London’s fourth cathedral dedicated to Saint Paul the Apostle, one of the early Christian leaders. The first cathedral was established in 604 CE – however the cathedral was completely destroyed during the Great Fire of London, in 1666. The present building was designed by architect Christopher Wren.
I wrapped up around 4 and googled “I googled "best pubs near Trafalgar Square" and The Old Shades came right up with a very high rating. I high tailed it over there from the National Gallery, and even though it too early for dinner, they had no place for me to sit, except at the bar which I did. The food was great, and so was the atmosphere. I can't remember the bartender's name, but I asked him to make me a nonalcoholic drink (it was really hot in London last week!), that would be refreshing, and he made me a drink that he said was his wife's favorite. It was delicious! I really enjoyed my meal there and meant to get back but just got too busy - next time -- for sure!
The following day I attended my event at the National Gallery. This was a special event hosted by a fabulous group I belong to called Art History in Focus. It was a special private tour of the Sainsbury Wing. We had breakfast at the Ochre restaurant, which is a part of the gallery, and then had a great tour and lecture that ended at 12:30. (I returned to the Ochre later in the week and had the best Caesar salad I have ever eaten in my life.) I met a friend for tea and then headed back to my hotel.
On Friday, I spent the day working with a friend on an art project, met some friends and had a quick dinner at 10 Greek Street, which was wonderful. Small plates and a small menu but it was great. Very much a “local hang out.” The one problem was that it was extremely noisy. But a great experience. More to follow in Part 2. .
Hi everyone, just returned from a great trip to London, here’s my trip report:
I flew on British Airways because I like that I can use Avios points to upgrade from premium economy to business class and get a lie-flat seat. However, on the return, I was on a “reconfigured and updated” flight, and the new seats are hideously uncomfortable and smaller. I guess they are now upgrading (seriously downgrading!) their planes. It was so uncomfortable….I spoke to a flight attendant, and she said that she hears that a lot. So be aware.
My hotel was Hazlitts, near Soho Square (and Trafalgar Square). On a prior trip I stayed at the Rookery, located in Clerkenwell. I am fascinated by England’s history and wanted to be in the heart of a historic area. Clerkenwell has an amazing history spanning from the medieval period to the present day. So I enjoyed being at the Rookery (these two are sister hotels, both using historic buildings from the 1700s, whose interiors have been lovingly and carefully restored to retain as much of the history as possible). Both hotels are clearly historic buildings, but on this trip, I wanted to be more centrally located, thus Trafalgar Square. The hotel was wonderful, the beds are all 19th-century big heavy four-posters…so comfy, but they do not have any rooms with two beds.
The food menu for room service is a little limited, but the food is delicious. And their lattes are to die for!
The absolute best thing about Hazlitts was, without question, the staff. Every single person working there is personally invested in making sure your stay is as excellent as possible. They are all so lovely, I will stay there again. I highly recommend it. Walking distance to so many places!
On my first full day, I visited the National Portrait Gallery, the National Gallery, London, as well as St Paul’s Cathedral. One of the reasons I was in London on this trip was a special event at the National Gallery, and I wanted to prep for the event because the museum is huge. The National Portrait Gallery was wonderful. Its collection is over 220,000 portraits, spanning from the 8th century to the present day. The collection has a silver coin circa 887, going back to Aelfred known as 'Alfred the Great', who reigned from 871-99, for example. I mean…talk about your history! Also, a fantastic collection of the portraits from the Tudor era, the Stuarts, Georgian, and Victorian times. I am really interested in the Tudors and loved looking at these portraits. General admission is free.
Next up was the National Gallery. (I should explain I am a huge art fan – especially the Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque era). The museum is huge…. general admission is also free, but you should buy a timed ticket.
I was in London partially for a special event held at the National Gallery the following day (Thursday), which I’ll get into in a minute, so my goal was to see as much of the other paintings as I could. The event was a re-opening of the Sainsbury Wing, which has been closed for some time due to renovations. The Sainsbury Wing is largely dedicated to the 1200s through the 1500s. One painting I was anxious to see was the Wilton Diptych (a rare English panel painting which survives from the Middle Ages. It was created for Richard II, who was King of England from 2377 to 1399. Absolutely stunning. (https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/p...wilton-diptych) So, on the day before the tour, I spent time seeing everything else. What a spectacular museum. The bookstores (especially the main one with all the books) lured me into them for a good amount of time.
Later that day I visited St Paul’s Cathedral, for which we also had a timed entry ticket.Old St Paul’s was London’s fourth cathedral dedicated to Saint Paul the Apostle, one of the early Christian leaders. The first cathedral was established in 604 CE – however the cathedral was completely destroyed during the Great Fire of London, in 1666. The present building was designed by architect Christopher Wren.
I wrapped up around 4 and googled “I googled "best pubs near Trafalgar Square" and The Old Shades came right up with a very high rating. I high tailed it over there from the National Gallery, and even though it too early for dinner, they had no place for me to sit, except at the bar which I did. The food was great, and so was the atmosphere. I can't remember the bartender's name, but I asked him to make me a nonalcoholic drink (it was really hot in London last week!), that would be refreshing, and he made me a drink that he said was his wife's favorite. It was delicious! I really enjoyed my meal there and meant to get back but just got too busy - next time -- for sure!
The following day I attended my event at the National Gallery. This was a special event hosted by a fabulous group I belong to called Art History in Focus. It was a special private tour of the Sainsbury Wing. We had breakfast at the Ochre restaurant, which is a part of the gallery, and then had a great tour and lecture that ended at 12:30. (I returned to the Ochre later in the week and had the best Caesar salad I have ever eaten in my life.) I met a friend for tea and then headed back to my hotel.
On Friday, I spent the day working with a friend on an art project, met some friends and had a quick dinner at 10 Greek Street, which was wonderful. Small plates and a small menu but it was great. Very much a “local hang out.” The one problem was that it was extremely noisy. But a great experience. More to follow in Part 2.
.
Spoiler
Jun 14th, 2025 | 08:29 PM
#4
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,082
Likes: 1
Thanks for the trip report, I'm looking forward to reading more. I love London, there is SO much to do there.
You should ask the forum people to add the little plane symbol to denote a trip report, even though that's in your subject heading. It will help it stand out a bit more.
You should ask the forum people to add the little plane symbol to denote a trip report, even though that's in your subject heading. It will help it stand out a bit more.
Jun 14th, 2025 | 11:39 PM
#5
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 74,969
Likes: 50
I’m currently in London and will be following along for sure. I’ve wanted to stay at Hazlitt’s so your review is welcome. I loved my stay at the Rookery a few years ago - they had GREAT staff too. Had afternoon tea at Ochre yesterday after seeing the Siena exhibition. It wasn’t just last week - it’s bloody hot this week too 
One definitely can’t count on that for sure.
One definitely can’t count on that for sure.
Jun 15th, 2025 | 07:51 AM
#6
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 230
Likes: 0
Hi KayF and Janisj. Kay, you are so right, there is so much to do. Thanks for the tip on the plane. Janisj, I hope you had a good time at tea. I wanted to do that, but ....too much sweet stuff for me. I can't say no! I saw the Siena Exhibit at the Met in NYC.
Don't know if either of you would be interested but one of my favorite spots to visit is the Charterhouse. My god, the history! It is a stunning place to visit. I recommend taking one of the "Brothers'" tours.
https://thecharterhouse.org/explore-the-charterhouse/
https://thecharterhouse.org/explore-...house/history/
Janisj, I hope you had a good time at tea. I wanted to do that, but ....too much sweet stuff for me. I can't say no! I saw the Siena Exhibit at the Met in NYC.Don't know if either of you would be interested but one of my favorite spots to visit is the Charterhouse. My god, the history! It is a stunning place to visit. I recommend taking one of the "Brothers'" tours.
https://thecharterhouse.org/explore-the-charterhouse/
https://thecharterhouse.org/explore-...house/history/
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Jun 15th, 2025 | 01:12 PM
#8
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 895
Likes: 0
Hi SusanG -
We just returned from London yesterday, June 14th. We LOVED London, did a lot of museums, some you mentioned but we really liked the Victoria and Albert Museum. Didn't even scratch the surface so we will be back! Have fun if you are still there.
We just returned from London yesterday, June 14th. We LOVED London, did a lot of museums, some you mentioned but we really liked the Victoria and Albert Museum. Didn't even scratch the surface so we will be back! Have fun if you are still there.
Jun 15th, 2025 | 07:31 PM
#10
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 74,969
Likes: 50
Jun 21st, 2025 | 06:22 AM
#13
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 230
Likes: 0
London Trip Report with Art Part 2Ok, so where was I? Who remembers? Sorry for the delay on this, we were without a fridge for 5 days, living out of coolers, and too much to do.
So, on the third day or so, I continued working with my colleague on our business plan, and that night we met my little sister and one of her twin nieces at Veeraswamy, an amazing Indian restaurant. I can tell you right off the bat that Picadilly Circus is not a place I can easily navigate. It’s so confusing! However, this restaurant was excellent – the food was amazing. They have been located here for 99 years, but now they have been asked to move out by the Crown. I mean, honestly, doesn’t the monarchy have enough property and land? If you can, I highly recommend this place: https://www.veeraswamy.com
The next day, I went back to the National Gallery (for more books) and then on to visit Southwark Cathedral. The history of this place dates to 1106, when it is said that the church was 're-founded' by two Norman knights as a priory. However, the site has a longer history, dating back to Roman times. https://cathedral.southwark.anglican...nian-heritage/. It is located at the oldest crossing-point of the River Thames at what was for many centuries the only entrance to the City of London, situated across the river.
A verbal tradition passed down to the Elizabethan historian John Stow suggests that the first Christian establishment was a community of nuns in the 7th century; however, the first written reference is the mention of a 'minster' in the Domesday Book of 1086. I’ll admit I was a little disappointed, I guess I thought it would be a grander cathedral, but I’m still glad I went, especially since I did get to say hello to the Cathedral cat. 😊
The next day I think I crashed. Oh, I know what I did. I visited John Lewis (such a great store) and wandered around Soho looking at little shops. I met a friend for dinner at a pub called The Grenadier (https://www.grenadierbelgravia.com/history) and had a great meal. There is something about the pubs that I just love. It seems to be such a convivial atmosphere. Of course, I am a visitor and go rarely but I do enjoy them. I am totally into the pies!
The following day, I also took it easy and slept late, and then spent part of the day wandering around Covent Garden. It’s a lovely area with some adorable shops, but it seemed to be mostly restaurants, and that was not my thing. I did, however, find a lovely little jewelry store and bought myself a necklace. It was not cheap, but I decided to splurge. https://www.alexmonroe.com.
The last full day, I went to the Cotswolds. I went with a group called Go Tours. (https://www.gotoursuk.com) Here are some thoughts on the Cotswolds; the woman I know who does Blue Badge tours in London kept saying, “You’ll spend 3 hours in a bus twice on that day and they take you to the most touristy towns, and it will be so crowded, it really is not worth it.” But I have always wanted to go. I researched the tours a lot and Go Tours gets extremely high ratings for everything. It is a small group tour (I think it was 16) (which is still too big for me). It was wonderful! I decided just to go.
The drive was so relaxing, and it took only two hours, not three. We visited four towns. My favorite was the first one. Below is the list of where we went, but there was also a 4thone, not sure why it is not listed here.
Day tours include minibus transportation and are led by a friendly Driver-Guide
• Visit Bibury, described as ‘the prettiest village in England’
• See Bourton-on-the-Water, affectionately known as the ‘Venice of the Cotswolds’
• Explore the ancient town of Stow-on-the-Wold, with links to JRR Tolkien
There were other tourists on their own tours, with other companies, but the drivers and the tourists were all respectful and quiet, so I really did not mind. It was by no means anywhere near the crowds in Venice around St Marks Square, which is unbearable (I try to stay away from that area in Venice between 8:30 am and 6:00 pm) I don’t really like “tours,” because I like to go at my own pace, but somehow this day was just lovely. Our tour guide Liam was so knowledgeable. He had a big map of the UK on the ceiling of the small van (which sloped down in front), and he could point to where, for example, the Saxons invaded, and so on. He also talked about the stone walls, and how old they were, as we were going through one town, for example, with a very old corridor of trees, I asked him to guess how old the ancient stone walls were and he estimated about 400 years. To me, being able to touch that …. It was amazing.
The drive home was quiet and took two hours again. When I got back to London, I was so relaxed! I highly recommend Go Tours to everyone.
And… the next day I flew home, so that concludes my trip report for London in May. I already cannot wait to go back – although I have two more trips coming up in 2025: one to Verona, Italy, in September, and then another to Italy and Paris in October. Hooray for seeing new places. Take care, and travel safely, everyone!
So, on the third day or so, I continued working with my colleague on our business plan, and that night we met my little sister and one of her twin nieces at Veeraswamy, an amazing Indian restaurant. I can tell you right off the bat that Picadilly Circus is not a place I can easily navigate. It’s so confusing! However, this restaurant was excellent – the food was amazing. They have been located here for 99 years, but now they have been asked to move out by the Crown. I mean, honestly, doesn’t the monarchy have enough property and land? If you can, I highly recommend this place: https://www.veeraswamy.com
The next day, I went back to the National Gallery (for more books) and then on to visit Southwark Cathedral. The history of this place dates to 1106, when it is said that the church was 're-founded' by two Norman knights as a priory. However, the site has a longer history, dating back to Roman times. https://cathedral.southwark.anglican...nian-heritage/. It is located at the oldest crossing-point of the River Thames at what was for many centuries the only entrance to the City of London, situated across the river.
A verbal tradition passed down to the Elizabethan historian John Stow suggests that the first Christian establishment was a community of nuns in the 7th century; however, the first written reference is the mention of a 'minster' in the Domesday Book of 1086. I’ll admit I was a little disappointed, I guess I thought it would be a grander cathedral, but I’m still glad I went, especially since I did get to say hello to the Cathedral cat. 😊
The next day I think I crashed. Oh, I know what I did. I visited John Lewis (such a great store) and wandered around Soho looking at little shops. I met a friend for dinner at a pub called The Grenadier (https://www.grenadierbelgravia.com/history) and had a great meal. There is something about the pubs that I just love. It seems to be such a convivial atmosphere. Of course, I am a visitor and go rarely but I do enjoy them. I am totally into the pies!
The following day, I also took it easy and slept late, and then spent part of the day wandering around Covent Garden. It’s a lovely area with some adorable shops, but it seemed to be mostly restaurants, and that was not my thing. I did, however, find a lovely little jewelry store and bought myself a necklace. It was not cheap, but I decided to splurge. https://www.alexmonroe.com.
The last full day, I went to the Cotswolds. I went with a group called Go Tours. (https://www.gotoursuk.com) Here are some thoughts on the Cotswolds; the woman I know who does Blue Badge tours in London kept saying, “You’ll spend 3 hours in a bus twice on that day and they take you to the most touristy towns, and it will be so crowded, it really is not worth it.” But I have always wanted to go. I researched the tours a lot and Go Tours gets extremely high ratings for everything. It is a small group tour (I think it was 16) (which is still too big for me). It was wonderful! I decided just to go.
The drive was so relaxing, and it took only two hours, not three. We visited four towns. My favorite was the first one. Below is the list of where we went, but there was also a 4thone, not sure why it is not listed here.
Day tours include minibus transportation and are led by a friendly Driver-Guide
• Visit Bibury, described as ‘the prettiest village in England’
• See Bourton-on-the-Water, affectionately known as the ‘Venice of the Cotswolds’
• Explore the ancient town of Stow-on-the-Wold, with links to JRR Tolkien
There were other tourists on their own tours, with other companies, but the drivers and the tourists were all respectful and quiet, so I really did not mind. It was by no means anywhere near the crowds in Venice around St Marks Square, which is unbearable (I try to stay away from that area in Venice between 8:30 am and 6:00 pm) I don’t really like “tours,” because I like to go at my own pace, but somehow this day was just lovely. Our tour guide Liam was so knowledgeable. He had a big map of the UK on the ceiling of the small van (which sloped down in front), and he could point to where, for example, the Saxons invaded, and so on. He also talked about the stone walls, and how old they were, as we were going through one town, for example, with a very old corridor of trees, I asked him to guess how old the ancient stone walls were and he estimated about 400 years. To me, being able to touch that …. It was amazing.
The drive home was quiet and took two hours again. When I got back to London, I was so relaxed! I highly recommend Go Tours to everyone.
And… the next day I flew home, so that concludes my trip report for London in May. I already cannot wait to go back – although I have two more trips coming up in 2025: one to Verona, Italy, in September, and then another to Italy and Paris in October. Hooray for seeing new places. Take care, and travel safely, everyone!
Jun 21st, 2025 | 06:27 AM
#14
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 230
Likes: 0
lrice...if you love history you will indeed love the Charterhouse. I know I mentioned this, but be sure to sign up for the "Brothers" tour if you can. There is something special about visiting with someone who lives there. Also, be sure you make enough time to also visit their museum. I had to cut myself short and that was a mistake. I will definitely go back.
Jun 21st, 2025 | 11:10 AM
#15
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 9,653
Likes: 0
Susan, thank you for this TR. Your writing is both concise and interesting, so any traveler will see your passion for London. I am also glad to see that you followed through to the Cotswolds with a 'damn the torpedoes' (ie critics) attitude. You satisfied your curiosity. Btw, we once ducked into your Rookery to ask directions and the staff were indeed very welcoming.
Where to next? Back to England?
I am done. the end
Where to next? Back to England?
I am done. the end
Jun 21st, 2025 | 12:01 PM
#16
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,735
Likes: 0
Love your hotel and it’s on my list if we go back to London. I love the location and the charm. We stayed in Convent Garden in 2023 and have stayed a few times at the Hoxton Holborn and really like that area and its convenient location close to so many museums, stores and restaurants. We’ve stayed in Clerkenwall and Shoreditch in the past and it was fun to be in a different part of town and Shoreditch had a great Soho/Tribeca/lower eastside vibe we liked. My favorite museum is the V&A but haven’t stayed in Kensington for a few decades. Sounds like you do a lot of traveling and thank you for the report! Happy travels this fall.
Jun 21st, 2025 | 09:26 PM
#17
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 74,969
Likes: 50
Haven't yet finished your next installment (arrived home myself Thursday night) but just quick . . .
"They have been located here for 99 years, but now they have been asked to move out by the Crown. I mean, honestly, doesn’t the monarchy have enough property and land? "
The bldg is owned by the Crown Estate but the King/Queen has no involvement in the operations. Earnings go to the government (and eventually some ends up in the royal purse).
"They have been located here for 99 years, but now they have been asked to move out by the Crown. I mean, honestly, doesn’t the monarchy have enough property and land? "
The bldg is owned by the Crown Estate but the King/Queen has no involvement in the operations. Earnings go to the government (and eventually some ends up in the royal purse).
Jun 22nd, 2025 | 07:40 AM
#19
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 230
Likes: 0
Hello all, and thanks for the comments! Zebec: I am off to Verona in September, Italy and Paris in October. Also I am glad I went to the Cotswolds. For one thing, now I realize that for me....going back on a trip to explore further probably wouldn't be longer than 3 days. Lovely, but aside from shopping and eating....a little less to do.
Macdogmom: thanks for the hotel recommendation and the neighborhood thoughts: I did love staying in Clerkenwall, so historic.....I was fascinated to read about the plague pits in earlier research. I don't know why but the plagues really interest me. Weird, right?
Janisj, huh. Interesting. Thanks for setting me straight on that. It was adding to my negative thinking on the royal family.
And bilboburgler, thanks for the nice words. I have always enjoyed your posts!
Macdogmom: thanks for the hotel recommendation and the neighborhood thoughts: I did love staying in Clerkenwall, so historic.....I was fascinated to read about the plague pits in earlier research. I don't know why but the plagues really interest me. Weird, right?
Janisj, huh. Interesting. Thanks for setting me straight on that. It was adding to my negative thinking on the royal family.
And bilboburgler, thanks for the nice words. I have always enjoyed your posts!
