GALICIA in June...four bases in nineteen days...
Jun 10th, 2025 | 08:44 AM
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GALICIA in June...four bases in nineteen days...
I hesitated about beginning this report, as this trip will contain a lot (I hope) of relaxation and not much sightseeing. I will keep its brief and as usual, food will be a priority.
We were in Galicia for about 8 days last May, prior to flying to Lanzarote and this year, my partner needed rest as he recovered from some minor surgeries and generally not feeling very energetic. I've not traveled sa late in the spring since my college days of hitchhiking through much of Europe and Turkey. We did not want to encounter enervating heat, and we had so enjoyed Galicia last year, despite the ever-present rain and drizzle that we decided to retrace a portion of last year's trip, with a much longer stay on the Isla de la Toja.
Because we were unsure if my partner could travel, I waited fairly late (early April) to book my hotels. This was unfortunate, as June is approaching high season in this region.
I was able to secure rooms at the hotels I wanted, but I had to change around my dates and, in both paradors, accept room categories I would not have chosen otherwise.
Our plan is this:
HOSTAL REIS CATOLICOS, THE PARADOR OF SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA.. 3 nights
EUROSTARS GRAN HOTEL LA TOJA, Isla de la Toxa (next to O"Grove)..8 nights
CASA DE MARCELO B&B, Padron..2 nights
PARADOR COSTA DA MORTE,, Muxia..3 nights
We will rent a car at the train station upon leaving Santiago, and return the car at the Santiago airport before flying home
We had a fine flight on Iberia, departing JFK with a connection of 1 hour 50 minutes in Madrid. My partner asked for a wheelchair and it's incredible how well orchestrated the "Sin barreras," "without barriers" system works at Barajas airport. So many wheelchair-bound travelers, all bound for different destinations, are transported by a series of buses, minivans, and wheelchair "pushers" from the arriving plane to the (for us) lounge, and then on to the departure gate. Many travelers are in a panic, fearing they will not make their flights but, somehow, it all works out. I can attest to this, as I needed a wheelchair last March and, although my connection was a mere 50 minutes, I had time to stop in the lounge, use the facilities, and sit down for two plates of lunch and a glass of wine, and still made the flight to JFK in time. Today we had an ample hour and 50 minutes between arriving from JFK and departure for Santiago, and the sychronicty of the workers at Barajas airport was really a marvel.
We landed in Santiago about 1pm, collected our luggage, and took a taxi (long line of free taxis, no waiting) to the Parador for the flat rate of 25 euro. There is a sign in the hotel lobby warning that the taxi system in the city is near "collapse," and that travelers should request a taxi the day before. I'm not sure how this will work if we need one within the city, but we'll see. Normally one can walk almost anywhere here but my partner is not in the best of shape; I 'm not sure he can manage even a mile. But relaxation is a priority for him so I expect to do my market visits (II have cheese on my mind!) solo.
The hotel is under renovation, so the entire facade is covered by those screens depicting what the exteriorl looks like. (What are those called?). I will inquire as to exactly what they are working on later in our stay.
When I tried to book the hotel in April, their online system showed no rooms available, but I sent an e-mail to the reservation department and, within a day, a standard room was located for me. But with my partner now able to travel, we wanted a larger space and, happily, were given one upon arrival. I expected the worst, a tiny, dark cavern-like space but this room is lovely..two large windows in the bedroom and one in the bath where there is a tub and a walk-n shower. Several comfortable chairs upholstered in a dark brocade, and a handsome wooden headboard behind the two twin beds pushed together. It's so much nicer than I had feared! The price of this, their lowest category room, for two, with breakfast, is 390 euro per night. Hotel prices in Santiago are not inexpensive!
The room was not ready when we arrived so we took advantage of the welcome drinks offered to us as Amigos of the Paradors, and had some people-watching time in the public areas of this vast hotel. I think we are the only guests not sporting shorts, clunky sandals, logoed t-shirts and sun hats. I've yet to hear any English spoken by a guest. It's quite an international crowd, by the looks of it, with the ages skewing more baby boomer than Gen Z.
Tonight we will head for a restaurant just a few minutes from the parador, and I will check in next with the details of our dinner at LA HUERTA DEL OBRADOIRO.
We were in Galicia for about 8 days last May, prior to flying to Lanzarote and this year, my partner needed rest as he recovered from some minor surgeries and generally not feeling very energetic. I've not traveled sa late in the spring since my college days of hitchhiking through much of Europe and Turkey. We did not want to encounter enervating heat, and we had so enjoyed Galicia last year, despite the ever-present rain and drizzle that we decided to retrace a portion of last year's trip, with a much longer stay on the Isla de la Toja.
Because we were unsure if my partner could travel, I waited fairly late (early April) to book my hotels. This was unfortunate, as June is approaching high season in this region.
I was able to secure rooms at the hotels I wanted, but I had to change around my dates and, in both paradors, accept room categories I would not have chosen otherwise.
Our plan is this:
HOSTAL REIS CATOLICOS, THE PARADOR OF SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA.. 3 nights
EUROSTARS GRAN HOTEL LA TOJA, Isla de la Toxa (next to O"Grove)..8 nights
CASA DE MARCELO B&B, Padron..2 nights
PARADOR COSTA DA MORTE,, Muxia..3 nights
We will rent a car at the train station upon leaving Santiago, and return the car at the Santiago airport before flying home
We had a fine flight on Iberia, departing JFK with a connection of 1 hour 50 minutes in Madrid. My partner asked for a wheelchair and it's incredible how well orchestrated the "Sin barreras," "without barriers" system works at Barajas airport. So many wheelchair-bound travelers, all bound for different destinations, are transported by a series of buses, minivans, and wheelchair "pushers" from the arriving plane to the (for us) lounge, and then on to the departure gate. Many travelers are in a panic, fearing they will not make their flights but, somehow, it all works out. I can attest to this, as I needed a wheelchair last March and, although my connection was a mere 50 minutes, I had time to stop in the lounge, use the facilities, and sit down for two plates of lunch and a glass of wine, and still made the flight to JFK in time. Today we had an ample hour and 50 minutes between arriving from JFK and departure for Santiago, and the sychronicty of the workers at Barajas airport was really a marvel.
We landed in Santiago about 1pm, collected our luggage, and took a taxi (long line of free taxis, no waiting) to the Parador for the flat rate of 25 euro. There is a sign in the hotel lobby warning that the taxi system in the city is near "collapse," and that travelers should request a taxi the day before. I'm not sure how this will work if we need one within the city, but we'll see. Normally one can walk almost anywhere here but my partner is not in the best of shape; I 'm not sure he can manage even a mile. But relaxation is a priority for him so I expect to do my market visits (II have cheese on my mind!) solo.
The hotel is under renovation, so the entire facade is covered by those screens depicting what the exteriorl looks like. (What are those called?). I will inquire as to exactly what they are working on later in our stay.
When I tried to book the hotel in April, their online system showed no rooms available, but I sent an e-mail to the reservation department and, within a day, a standard room was located for me. But with my partner now able to travel, we wanted a larger space and, happily, were given one upon arrival. I expected the worst, a tiny, dark cavern-like space but this room is lovely..two large windows in the bedroom and one in the bath where there is a tub and a walk-n shower. Several comfortable chairs upholstered in a dark brocade, and a handsome wooden headboard behind the two twin beds pushed together. It's so much nicer than I had feared! The price of this, their lowest category room, for two, with breakfast, is 390 euro per night. Hotel prices in Santiago are not inexpensive!
The room was not ready when we arrived so we took advantage of the welcome drinks offered to us as Amigos of the Paradors, and had some people-watching time in the public areas of this vast hotel. I think we are the only guests not sporting shorts, clunky sandals, logoed t-shirts and sun hats. I've yet to hear any English spoken by a guest. It's quite an international crowd, by the looks of it, with the ages skewing more baby boomer than Gen Z.
Tonight we will head for a restaurant just a few minutes from the parador, and I will check in next with the details of our dinner at LA HUERTA DEL OBRADOIRO.
Last edited by ekscrunchy; Jun 10th, 2025 at 08:55 AM.
Jun 10th, 2025 | 01:14 PM
#5
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 25,275
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You all give me so much pleasure to think you are reading this!
It's a lot hotter here than I anticipated. Temperatures today were over 80F and when we left the hotel after 8pm, there was an almost imperceptible drizzle but it was still 81F.
I was also surprised at how many people, including those who were speaking Spanish, were wearing shorts, and these were not the obvious pilgrims.
Leaving then parador, we turned right and walked down a steep street to LA HORTA DEL OBRAIDOIRO, where I had booked dinner a few days ago. This is a small and very cozy restaurant with eclectic decor. It has a Bib Gourmand in the Michelin guide, signaling good value. By the time our main course arrived, every table was taken. We were seated next to a couple from Atlanta who had just completed the walk from Sarria to Santiago, taking six days. They had some interesting stories about their Camino.
We were treated to a puree of mussels that my partner, who hates "things with black shells," deemed "fantastic." And it was.....a mound of creamed mussels served on a handkerchief-thin cracker-like triangle. Following that was my partner's favorite: A round bread made with chestnut flour that had been gouged in the middle and stuffed with a. mix of
Arzua-Ulloa Galician cheese blended with chicharrones. I ate less than a quarter and was sated. Unusual and very, very good, if a tad heavy for me.
We shared that and planned to each order a main course: Hake in tempura batter for J. and for me, a rice with pork and artichokes. (I had very fond memories from last year of a similar-sunding dish at SeBe in Lanzarote) But our kind female server dissuaded us, saying that the rice was a very large portion and we should not order a second main course. I'm so glad we took her advice! Again, I could barely make a dent in the rice. In the end, I think we left at least a third or more of this dish on the plate. The rice was excellent, studded with quartered hearts of artichoke and with slices of rare pork solomillo on top. The meat was good but the rice (and the artichokes) were the star of this dish, for me. But, sadly, it did not come close to the masterpiece we had savored in Lanzarote.
Service was warm and friendly and most of the staff spoke some English. I had one glass of Albarino, the signature white wine of the Rias Baixas, and with a bottle of water, our dinner cost a reasonable 44 euro.
My partner made a beeline the hotel after dinner but it was still light out when we left the restaurant just after 10pm and I wanted see if I could scare up some ice cream. I was in luck! About a ten-minute walk along the 'main drag of the casco antiguo, at Rua do Vilar, #81, I found BIKO.
Oh, my--they must have had two dozen flavors!! Not only dulce de leche but also salted caramel--those are two of my favorites.
Some unusual flavors included cream de orujo, turron de Jijona, tomato, mustard and mushroom (!!) and others that you can see in the link, below. The company has many locations through Galicia. I'm not sure about mustard ice cream, but I intend to undertake more diligent research on this place in the coming days.
https://bicodexeado.es/nuestros-sabores/
Tonight I had the smallest cup (3.30euro), with chocolate and orange, and salted caramel. I did my best to save some for my partner but it began to melt as I was walking back to the hotel so, not wanting to waste even a bite, I "had" to finish the cup. This was some really good ice cream!!
It's now just after 11pm and it's only now gotten dark outside. We have the 9:45 slot for breakfast (we had to choose at check in), so I'll finish this up now with the promise of more, but nothing too exciting, to come tomorrow.....
I am SO very happy to be back in Spain!!
Interior dining room of LA HUERTA DO OBRAIDOIRO restaurant in Santiago de Compostela, a few steps from the Paraddor
Galicia may turn out the best bread (background) in Spain! In foreground is the entrante--a puree of mussels on an impossibly thin, almost transparent cracker
Portioning out the chestnut bread stuffed with chicharrones and Galcian cheese--my partner could not get enough of this!
Close up of the cheese-and-chicharron-stuffed chestnut-flour bread
Restaurant exterior
I neglected to take a photo of the pork rice dish.
The menu is on the website; the restaurant goes by both its Castilian and Gallego names.
https://ahortadoobradoiro.com/menu/
It's a lot hotter here than I anticipated. Temperatures today were over 80F and when we left the hotel after 8pm, there was an almost imperceptible drizzle but it was still 81F.
I was also surprised at how many people, including those who were speaking Spanish, were wearing shorts, and these were not the obvious pilgrims.
Leaving then parador, we turned right and walked down a steep street to LA HORTA DEL OBRAIDOIRO, where I had booked dinner a few days ago. This is a small and very cozy restaurant with eclectic decor. It has a Bib Gourmand in the Michelin guide, signaling good value. By the time our main course arrived, every table was taken. We were seated next to a couple from Atlanta who had just completed the walk from Sarria to Santiago, taking six days. They had some interesting stories about their Camino.
We were treated to a puree of mussels that my partner, who hates "things with black shells," deemed "fantastic." And it was.....a mound of creamed mussels served on a handkerchief-thin cracker-like triangle. Following that was my partner's favorite: A round bread made with chestnut flour that had been gouged in the middle and stuffed with a. mix of
Arzua-Ulloa Galician cheese blended with chicharrones. I ate less than a quarter and was sated. Unusual and very, very good, if a tad heavy for me.
We shared that and planned to each order a main course: Hake in tempura batter for J. and for me, a rice with pork and artichokes. (I had very fond memories from last year of a similar-sunding dish at SeBe in Lanzarote) But our kind female server dissuaded us, saying that the rice was a very large portion and we should not order a second main course. I'm so glad we took her advice! Again, I could barely make a dent in the rice. In the end, I think we left at least a third or more of this dish on the plate. The rice was excellent, studded with quartered hearts of artichoke and with slices of rare pork solomillo on top. The meat was good but the rice (and the artichokes) were the star of this dish, for me. But, sadly, it did not come close to the masterpiece we had savored in Lanzarote.
Service was warm and friendly and most of the staff spoke some English. I had one glass of Albarino, the signature white wine of the Rias Baixas, and with a bottle of water, our dinner cost a reasonable 44 euro.
My partner made a beeline the hotel after dinner but it was still light out when we left the restaurant just after 10pm and I wanted see if I could scare up some ice cream. I was in luck! About a ten-minute walk along the 'main drag of the casco antiguo, at Rua do Vilar, #81, I found BIKO.
Oh, my--they must have had two dozen flavors!! Not only dulce de leche but also salted caramel--those are two of my favorites.
Some unusual flavors included cream de orujo, turron de Jijona, tomato, mustard and mushroom (!!) and others that you can see in the link, below. The company has many locations through Galicia. I'm not sure about mustard ice cream, but I intend to undertake more diligent research on this place in the coming days.
https://bicodexeado.es/nuestros-sabores/
Tonight I had the smallest cup (3.30euro), with chocolate and orange, and salted caramel. I did my best to save some for my partner but it began to melt as I was walking back to the hotel so, not wanting to waste even a bite, I "had" to finish the cup. This was some really good ice cream!!
It's now just after 11pm and it's only now gotten dark outside. We have the 9:45 slot for breakfast (we had to choose at check in), so I'll finish this up now with the promise of more, but nothing too exciting, to come tomorrow.....
I am SO very happy to be back in Spain!!
Interior dining room of LA HUERTA DO OBRAIDOIRO restaurant in Santiago de Compostela, a few steps from the Paraddor
Galicia may turn out the best bread (background) in Spain! In foreground is the entrante--a puree of mussels on an impossibly thin, almost transparent cracker
Portioning out the chestnut bread stuffed with chicharrones and Galcian cheese--my partner could not get enough of this!
Close up of the cheese-and-chicharron-stuffed chestnut-flour bread
Restaurant exterior
I neglected to take a photo of the pork rice dish.
The menu is on the website; the restaurant goes by both its Castilian and Gallego names.
https://ahortadoobradoiro.com/menu/
Last edited by ekscrunchy; Jun 10th, 2025 at 01:20 PM.
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Jun 11th, 2025 | 04:52 AM
#8
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 25,275
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This morning we overslept but had time for a good breakfast at the Parador; a highlight of the buffet is the Torta de Almendras, the signature almond cake of Santiago. (The better version, with fewer ingredients, is named Torta de Santiago, but this one was good enough for me to have three slices!) There is a choice of hot items, including various eggs dishes, at no extra charge. From these, I sampled a cup of Caldo Gallego, a light vegetable broth with greens, potato and white beans that might be the most representative dish of the Galician table. It often has pork added but this one did not:
https://followthecamino.com/en/blog/...aign=undefined
After breakfast I made a beeline for the Mercado de Abastos, one of the most pleasant of the Spanish food markets that I've visited. Not crowded, no gawking groups of tourists clogging the aisles, lines of inviting eateries featuring the riches of Galician waters, from percebes to scallops to clams and much more. I was on the hunt for a few local cheeses and I bought two blue ones--one cow's milk which had no name, as it was made near Lugo for this particular cheese vendor, and the other, the raw-cow's-milk Savel, from prize-winning cheesemakers AIRAS MONIZ (they have another cheese that I will buy while I'm in this city). I bought the latter from the CHARCUTERIA HERNANDEZ stand, aisle 2, #127, where I was attended by an especially warm and informative female salesperson. I'm trying to recall which stand Maribel recommended to me last year and hope she will chime in with the details. The mercado is a real joy..samples of cheeses and pork products are handed out with a smile and the atmosphere is so much more welcoming than that in the Mercado central of Valencia, where it seemed like every stand bore a sign warning not to touch, not to take photos, and announcements over the loudspeaker emphasized the same. (The market in Valencia is glorious, but those admonitions might be a little off-putting to some).
https://www.foodswinesfromspain.com/...d-promoted-by-
I could not resist a kilo of cherries from the Valle de Jerte, the renowned cherry-growing region in Extremadura. These were priced by size, with the largest selling for 10euro per kilo.
Before I arrived back at the Parador, I knew that I had found treasures!! (As compared to the mealy and dry specimens I had overbought at Whole Foods in NYC last week)
From the market I wandered around, taking in the beautiful architecture of the historic center, bathed in sunlight today. I was surprised that so many people were wearing shorts but I guess that's to be expected if one is coming off the Camino. The streets and plazas are packed with travelers toting walking staffs and backpacks with dangling scallop shells.
I veered out of the old city to pay a visit to Zara, a stop I can never resist in Spain! Wandering back to the Parador I found TENDA CESTA, a lovely food shop where I purchased a liqueur made in Ourense by Carabunhas from sabugueros, or elderberries. (15euro) I stopped up their last remaining bottle last year but now they have a good supply so I imagine Ii will re-visit this shop before leaving the city.
https://carabunhas.com/producto/licor-sabugueiro/
I had a small rest on a ledge on the Praza do Obradoiro. Named for the workers who crafted the structures rimming this monumental public space, this must be among the most glorious plazas in Spain and the end point of most pilgrims walking the Camino de Santiago.
https://www.caminodesantiago.gal/en/...a-do-obradoiro
Double file of food stalls offering the legendary shellfish of the waters off Galicia
Octopus awaiting transformation into the quintessential Gallego "pulbo a fiera," octpous in the style of the fair
https://www.fascinatingspain.com/art...448068744.html
Lovely cheese and embutidos stand where I bought cheese made by AIRAS DE MONIZ
Close up of Galician cheeses including the Savel by Airas Moniz which I bought to snack on at the Parador
https://followthecamino.com/en/blog/...aign=undefined
After breakfast I made a beeline for the Mercado de Abastos, one of the most pleasant of the Spanish food markets that I've visited. Not crowded, no gawking groups of tourists clogging the aisles, lines of inviting eateries featuring the riches of Galician waters, from percebes to scallops to clams and much more. I was on the hunt for a few local cheeses and I bought two blue ones--one cow's milk which had no name, as it was made near Lugo for this particular cheese vendor, and the other, the raw-cow's-milk Savel, from prize-winning cheesemakers AIRAS MONIZ (they have another cheese that I will buy while I'm in this city). I bought the latter from the CHARCUTERIA HERNANDEZ stand, aisle 2, #127, where I was attended by an especially warm and informative female salesperson. I'm trying to recall which stand Maribel recommended to me last year and hope she will chime in with the details. The mercado is a real joy..samples of cheeses and pork products are handed out with a smile and the atmosphere is so much more welcoming than that in the Mercado central of Valencia, where it seemed like every stand bore a sign warning not to touch, not to take photos, and announcements over the loudspeaker emphasized the same. (The market in Valencia is glorious, but those admonitions might be a little off-putting to some).
https://www.foodswinesfromspain.com/...d-promoted-by-
I could not resist a kilo of cherries from the Valle de Jerte, the renowned cherry-growing region in Extremadura. These were priced by size, with the largest selling for 10euro per kilo.
Before I arrived back at the Parador, I knew that I had found treasures!! (As compared to the mealy and dry specimens I had overbought at Whole Foods in NYC last week)
From the market I wandered around, taking in the beautiful architecture of the historic center, bathed in sunlight today. I was surprised that so many people were wearing shorts but I guess that's to be expected if one is coming off the Camino. The streets and plazas are packed with travelers toting walking staffs and backpacks with dangling scallop shells.
I veered out of the old city to pay a visit to Zara, a stop I can never resist in Spain! Wandering back to the Parador I found TENDA CESTA, a lovely food shop where I purchased a liqueur made in Ourense by Carabunhas from sabugueros, or elderberries. (15euro) I stopped up their last remaining bottle last year but now they have a good supply so I imagine Ii will re-visit this shop before leaving the city.
https://carabunhas.com/producto/licor-sabugueiro/
I had a small rest on a ledge on the Praza do Obradoiro. Named for the workers who crafted the structures rimming this monumental public space, this must be among the most glorious plazas in Spain and the end point of most pilgrims walking the Camino de Santiago.
https://www.caminodesantiago.gal/en/...a-do-obradoiro
Double file of food stalls offering the legendary shellfish of the waters off Galicia
Octopus awaiting transformation into the quintessential Gallego "pulbo a fiera," octpous in the style of the fair
https://www.fascinatingspain.com/art...448068744.html
Lovely cheese and embutidos stand where I bought cheese made by AIRAS DE MONIZ
Close up of Galician cheeses including the Savel by Airas Moniz which I bought to snack on at the Parador
Last edited by ekscrunchy; Jun 11th, 2025 at 04:55 AM.
Jun 11th, 2025 | 05:03 AM
#9
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Joined: May 2005
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Some random shots of Santiago de Compostela on a sunny Wednesday in June:
One of several interlinked courtyards inside the Parador of Santiago, built as a hospital for Pilgrims by King Fernando and Queen Isabela
Possible day trips from the city, to surrounding points of interest, including the city of Porto
Rua do Franco, a Main Street in the historic quarter of Santiago, named for the French merchants and innkeepers who established themselves close to the Cathedral in medieval times.
Praza do Obradoiro, with the Parador (under renovation) in the background
Seat of local government, the Palacio de Raxoi, facing the Cathedral
One of several interlinked courtyards inside the Parador of Santiago, built as a hospital for Pilgrims by King Fernando and Queen Isabela
Possible day trips from the city, to surrounding points of interest, including the city of Porto
Rua do Franco, a Main Street in the historic quarter of Santiago, named for the French merchants and innkeepers who established themselves close to the Cathedral in medieval times.
Praza do Obradoiro, with the Parador (under renovation) in the background
Seat of local government, the Palacio de Raxoi, facing the Cathedral
Jun 11th, 2025 | 07:35 AM
#10
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Joined: May 2005
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More random photos of the interior of the Parador. I am afraid I feel quite inadequate after seeing the glorious photos Anju has taken of his recent trip to Abruzzo and Molise!!
Roofline taken from interior hallway inside Parador
Vignette from lobby area; just one of many spaces that invite relaxing for guests of the Parador
Many plaques inform visitors and guests of the Parador; staying here offers a sense of being a part of history that is almost unmatched by other hotels. It's a very special experience and not one easily replicated.
Patio de San Mateo, one of several interlinked courtyard inside the Parador in Santiago de Compostela; I am very happy that we are lodged here. The room matters very little (although our standard double room, the least expensive category, is lovely) ; it's the sense of history imbuing every inch of space that is so memorable. I recommend taking any available room, just to have a chance to stay here; much of the interior is off -limits to non-guests, even those on tours.
Informative plaque inside the Patio de San Mateo
After a small relax and cherry tasting, we walked over to the Cathedral. There was no line and, after a brief check of the inside of my handbag, we entered. Upon exiting at 4pm, the line stretched for about two blocks or more. Too I recommend checking the entrance; if you see a long line, perhaps return soon after as the wait times to enter seem to vary greatly. The guard at entry asks visitors to remove their hats, but visitors were permitted to enter even if garbed in very short shorts.
Hera are a few (not very good) photos of the interior of the Cathedral:
While walking toward the entrance, these cheerful guys from Porto asked me to snap their photo; they had ridden from Porto to Santiago (Along the Camino Portugues; note that there are many Camino routes, all terminating in Santiago de Compostela) in two days and looked no worse for wear. They would return to Porto later today in a van, with their bikes and packs. They were one group of many, including a merry quartet from Tenerife, who were so happy to share commentary and to have their pics snapped. Everyone around here seems to be elated, for good reason...for many this is the trip of a lifetime. I heard tales off children pushing their devout parent in a wheelchair, all the way from the Pyrenees, and many pilgrims were "seniors," and not all looked in he best of shape.
One of two organs inside Cathedral
Cathedral main altar
Closeup..please do not depend on my details; we took no tour and had no notes or guidebook
Plaque In memorium of Pope John Paul II who had begun a European tour here in Santiago
The tomb of St. James
Did I mention that, apart from the couple we sat next to in the restaurant last night, who lived in Atlanta, we have heard no American--and very little English of any kind since our arrival yesterday. Most people we have overheard are speaking Spanish.
Our housekeeper in the Parador is a native of Santo Domingo; she works mornings in the Parador and attends dental school in the afternoons and at night.
Again I am reminded of the opportunity that Spain allows immigrants, as opposed to the situation in the United States.
Roofline taken from interior hallway inside Parador
Vignette from lobby area; just one of many spaces that invite relaxing for guests of the Parador
Many plaques inform visitors and guests of the Parador; staying here offers a sense of being a part of history that is almost unmatched by other hotels. It's a very special experience and not one easily replicated.
Patio de San Mateo, one of several interlinked courtyard inside the Parador in Santiago de Compostela; I am very happy that we are lodged here. The room matters very little (although our standard double room, the least expensive category, is lovely) ; it's the sense of history imbuing every inch of space that is so memorable. I recommend taking any available room, just to have a chance to stay here; much of the interior is off -limits to non-guests, even those on tours.
Informative plaque inside the Patio de San Mateo
After a small relax and cherry tasting, we walked over to the Cathedral. There was no line and, after a brief check of the inside of my handbag, we entered. Upon exiting at 4pm, the line stretched for about two blocks or more. Too I recommend checking the entrance; if you see a long line, perhaps return soon after as the wait times to enter seem to vary greatly. The guard at entry asks visitors to remove their hats, but visitors were permitted to enter even if garbed in very short shorts.
Hera are a few (not very good) photos of the interior of the Cathedral:
While walking toward the entrance, these cheerful guys from Porto asked me to snap their photo; they had ridden from Porto to Santiago (Along the Camino Portugues; note that there are many Camino routes, all terminating in Santiago de Compostela) in two days and looked no worse for wear. They would return to Porto later today in a van, with their bikes and packs. They were one group of many, including a merry quartet from Tenerife, who were so happy to share commentary and to have their pics snapped. Everyone around here seems to be elated, for good reason...for many this is the trip of a lifetime. I heard tales off children pushing their devout parent in a wheelchair, all the way from the Pyrenees, and many pilgrims were "seniors," and not all looked in he best of shape.
One of two organs inside Cathedral
Cathedral main altar
Closeup..please do not depend on my details; we took no tour and had no notes or guidebook
Plaque In memorium of Pope John Paul II who had begun a European tour here in Santiago
The tomb of St. James
Did I mention that, apart from the couple we sat next to in the restaurant last night, who lived in Atlanta, we have heard no American--and very little English of any kind since our arrival yesterday. Most people we have overheard are speaking Spanish.
Our housekeeper in the Parador is a native of Santo Domingo; she works mornings in the Parador and attends dental school in the afternoons and at night.
Again I am reminded of the opportunity that Spain allows immigrants, as opposed to the situation in the United States.
Jun 11th, 2025 | 11:15 PM
#13
Original Poster
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 25,275
Likes: 0
Thanks so much to both of you!
We enjoyed our dinner last night, in the dining room at ABASTOS 2.0, and I will post photos soon. The menu was in Gallego only--no Spanish, or English, translation, so it was fun to see what we could understand before consulting the waiter! We hear Gallego spoken a lot, during our wanderings in Santiago, but many people have good knowledge of English, much more so, I think, than in Andalucia, my most usual vacation spot in Spain.
I'm happy to report that, despite the extensive construction taking place at the Parador, our room is silent at night, and we are sleeping extraordinarily well.
More soon..
We enjoyed our dinner last night, in the dining room at ABASTOS 2.0, and I will post photos soon. The menu was in Gallego only--no Spanish, or English, translation, so it was fun to see what we could understand before consulting the waiter! We hear Gallego spoken a lot, during our wanderings in Santiago, but many people have good knowledge of English, much more so, I think, than in Andalucia, my most usual vacation spot in Spain.
I'm happy to report that, despite the extensive construction taking place at the Parador, our room is silent at night, and we are sleeping extraordinarily well.
More soon..
Jun 12th, 2025 | 04:23 AM
#15
Original Poster
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 25,275
Likes: 0
Thanks, Jamikins! I'm glad to see you here; I remember so well your adventures in Le Marche and I see you are going to look for a house to buy there.
Please, please keep us up to date on the places you see and what you think!! I love to dream about buying a home in Italy or in Spain!!
Last night we booked a table at ABASTOS 2.0, a restaurant adjacent to the Mercado de Abastos in Santiago where we had a wonderful dinner last May. Things had changed, however. While the dining room (they also have a room with bar seating also outdoor seating, just across the narrow street) had been full, with a festive atmosphere last year, last night there were only two tables occupied--ours and one long table seating a tour group of Americans. When we left close to 10pm, the restaurant was empty, save that large table.
The menu, which is only in Gallego, with no translation to Spanish or English, is strong on shellfish. At least some of the staff (only two servers were evident last night) speak English. Our friendly wait person was Valentina, from Cagliari in Sardinia, and was adamant that we visit her home city in the near future!! We talked quite a bit about Sardinian food during our dinner, as Valentina is fluent in Spanish. She gave me her number and insisted that I phone her for details on where to visit in Southweatern Sardinia (She told me to forget Alghero and Stintino and that Cagliari and around was, by far, the best area to visit on the island)
I began with berberechos, or cockles, which were prepared "al vapor," or steamed, and very tasty.
We shared an order of heirloom peas from the adjacent province of Pontevedra, but these peas were not the delectable "green pearls," or guisantes de lagrima, that are revered throughout Spain and demand exorbitant prices in markets during their very short season. They were.....peas.
My partner declared that he liked Le Sueur peas better (these are fairly expensive canned peas popular in then US and Canada). I would not go so far, but I did not think these were anything very special.
Much better were the main courses: My octopus had a nice char which contrasted with then tender interior, and my partner declared his merluza (the omnipresent Spanish hake) to
be "fantastic!" (I was not granted even one tiny bite. And this is a person who, when we met, told me that he "hated fish!" I guess travel expands one's world in many ways.
With one glass of Albarino and water, our bill came to about 71 euro. (2 euro charge for bread and butter; the bread was not nearly as good as the night before, so I would pass next time)
We turned down the offer of dessert because I was determined to return to BICO where I had had that excellent cup of ice cream the previous evening. Last night this sparkling white heladeria was packed and there was a line of people waiting to be served. We passed on the unusual flavors like mustard, cream de orujo, and tomato and each chose large cups: I combined dulce de leche and dark chocolate with orange, and my partner, dark chocolate and banana.
This is some great ice cream; two large cups cost 8.60 euro. BICO is a mini-chain with outposts throughout Galicia.
Last night's menu; there is also a reasonably priced tasting menu
Berberechos (cockles), steamed
Guisantes de raza, heirloom peas
Octopus, served over a dark green
That magnificent merluza (hake), a clean, white fish
Interior of BICO heladeria, in the center of Santiago's old quarter; a large cup with two flavors costs 3.30 euro
This morning, I walked to the Mercado de Abastos again, today in the light drizzle, to stock up on a few Galician cheeses including two from well-regarded cheese makers AIRES MONIZ--Savel and Terra, both made from cow's milk.
https://www.tasteatlas.com/airas-moniz
I also bought some aged Cebreiro.....
https://www.fascinatingspain.com/art...448068744.html
..as well as a semi-cured cheese made from goat's milk, 1949 Coelerini from Ourense; I was told by the extremely friendly vendor at CHARCUTEERIA HERNANDEZ that cheeses made from goat's milk are quite rare in this region.
I picked up a wedge of membrillo (quince paste) to eat with the cheese, three cans of Conserva de Cambados sardines (sardinillas) and finally, one of my favorite desserts, a Tarta de Santiago to carry back to the US.
This is the DOP product, unlike the less expensive tarts de almendras (Almond cake). (The tarts de Santiago cost 11 euro for a fairly large cake, while the more usual tarts de almendras can be bought for 4.50). But I already know that there is a big difference in taste between the two similarly looking cakes, both round and dusted with sugar with the image of the cross of St. James on the top.
https://www.thespanishchef.com/recip...ta-de-santiago
Once I finish this post, I'll be off to a nearby peluqueria, recommended by a woman at the front desk of the Parador, for a much-needed haircut.
Local liqueurs for sale in the Mercado de Abastos
One of the interior aisles of this excellent market
Please, please keep us up to date on the places you see and what you think!! I love to dream about buying a home in Italy or in Spain!!
Last night we booked a table at ABASTOS 2.0, a restaurant adjacent to the Mercado de Abastos in Santiago where we had a wonderful dinner last May. Things had changed, however. While the dining room (they also have a room with bar seating also outdoor seating, just across the narrow street) had been full, with a festive atmosphere last year, last night there were only two tables occupied--ours and one long table seating a tour group of Americans. When we left close to 10pm, the restaurant was empty, save that large table.
The menu, which is only in Gallego, with no translation to Spanish or English, is strong on shellfish. At least some of the staff (only two servers were evident last night) speak English. Our friendly wait person was Valentina, from Cagliari in Sardinia, and was adamant that we visit her home city in the near future!! We talked quite a bit about Sardinian food during our dinner, as Valentina is fluent in Spanish. She gave me her number and insisted that I phone her for details on where to visit in Southweatern Sardinia (She told me to forget Alghero and Stintino and that Cagliari and around was, by far, the best area to visit on the island)
I began with berberechos, or cockles, which were prepared "al vapor," or steamed, and very tasty.
We shared an order of heirloom peas from the adjacent province of Pontevedra, but these peas were not the delectable "green pearls," or guisantes de lagrima, that are revered throughout Spain and demand exorbitant prices in markets during their very short season. They were.....peas.
My partner declared that he liked Le Sueur peas better (these are fairly expensive canned peas popular in then US and Canada). I would not go so far, but I did not think these were anything very special.
Much better were the main courses: My octopus had a nice char which contrasted with then tender interior, and my partner declared his merluza (the omnipresent Spanish hake) to
be "fantastic!" (I was not granted even one tiny bite. And this is a person who, when we met, told me that he "hated fish!" I guess travel expands one's world in many ways.
With one glass of Albarino and water, our bill came to about 71 euro. (2 euro charge for bread and butter; the bread was not nearly as good as the night before, so I would pass next time)
We turned down the offer of dessert because I was determined to return to BICO where I had had that excellent cup of ice cream the previous evening. Last night this sparkling white heladeria was packed and there was a line of people waiting to be served. We passed on the unusual flavors like mustard, cream de orujo, and tomato and each chose large cups: I combined dulce de leche and dark chocolate with orange, and my partner, dark chocolate and banana.
This is some great ice cream; two large cups cost 8.60 euro. BICO is a mini-chain with outposts throughout Galicia.
Last night's menu; there is also a reasonably priced tasting menu
Berberechos (cockles), steamed
Guisantes de raza, heirloom peas
Octopus, served over a dark green
That magnificent merluza (hake), a clean, white fish
Interior of BICO heladeria, in the center of Santiago's old quarter; a large cup with two flavors costs 3.30 euro
This morning, I walked to the Mercado de Abastos again, today in the light drizzle, to stock up on a few Galician cheeses including two from well-regarded cheese makers AIRES MONIZ--Savel and Terra, both made from cow's milk.
https://www.tasteatlas.com/airas-moniz
I also bought some aged Cebreiro.....
https://www.fascinatingspain.com/art...448068744.html
..as well as a semi-cured cheese made from goat's milk, 1949 Coelerini from Ourense; I was told by the extremely friendly vendor at CHARCUTEERIA HERNANDEZ that cheeses made from goat's milk are quite rare in this region.
I picked up a wedge of membrillo (quince paste) to eat with the cheese, three cans of Conserva de Cambados sardines (sardinillas) and finally, one of my favorite desserts, a Tarta de Santiago to carry back to the US.
This is the DOP product, unlike the less expensive tarts de almendras (Almond cake). (The tarts de Santiago cost 11 euro for a fairly large cake, while the more usual tarts de almendras can be bought for 4.50). But I already know that there is a big difference in taste between the two similarly looking cakes, both round and dusted with sugar with the image of the cross of St. James on the top.
https://www.thespanishchef.com/recip...ta-de-santiago
Once I finish this post, I'll be off to a nearby peluqueria, recommended by a woman at the front desk of the Parador, for a much-needed haircut.
Local liqueurs for sale in the Mercado de Abastos
One of the interior aisles of this excellent market
Last edited by ekscrunchy; Jun 12th, 2025 at 04:32 AM.
Jun 12th, 2025 | 06:14 AM
#16
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,327
Likes: 0
Oh these pictures make me hungry!!!!
Yes, we are going back to Le Marche this year for 2 weeks to scout out the area we are looking at and see what its like to just hang out there. Its more of a 5 year plan but we are serious!
Loving your trip so far!
Yes, we are going back to Le Marche this year for 2 weeks to scout out the area we are looking at and see what its like to just hang out there. Its more of a 5 year plan but we are serious!
Loving your trip so far!
Jun 12th, 2025 | 10:29 PM
#19
Original Poster
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 25,275
Likes: 0
I'm so glad you are all enjoying.
Yesterday afternoon I walked over to(over and up, up, p--very steep street and many steps!!) to a small beauty salon recommended to me by a woman working at the Parador. It's always fun to have a haircut in another country. This was a tiny one-woman operation and the experience was excellent. Not only did I get a shampoo, excellent haircut and blow dry (for 35 euro, which is a fraction of what I have to pay in New. York and the haircut yesterday, I think, was BETTER than the one I get back home.). But I stayed way past my appointment slot, as the owner and I engaged in an interesting discussion about politics or, rather, about immigration politics. I've heard variations of this before from Spaniards inn other regions, but the upshot of the conversation was this: She was puzzled as to why our current president had been elected (and very curious about the relationship he had with his wife). BUT she remarked that she wished that Spain would take a much harder line on immigration. She went on to explain how immigrant families from Venezuela, Cuba and the DR had moved into her neighborhood and that many of the young people carried knives which were used in frequent disputes on the street. She related that the government offered much financial help to families, and the more children in the family, the larger the benefit. She worried that someday the Gallegos would be outnumbered by immigrants and that her culture would begin to erode. All of this, of course, is so familiar as most Americans (and probably many from other countries) have heard variations on the same theme, along the lines of...these immigrant kids drop out of school and join gangs, they sell drugs, the parents do not supervise them, and this will be passed on through generations, and because they have so many children, the immigrants will be in the majority someday........ She was aware of what was happening in Los Angeles and was not totally opposed to finding some, more peaceful, way of deporting people without the proper credentials.....
I was surprised at how vehement she was and I suspect that she is far from the only person around who shares this sentiment.
On to more pleasant topics.......we had the best meal of our trip so far, last night, at SIMPAR, a new restaurant that has already gained a Michelin star and two "soles" from the Repsol, Spain's leading gastronomic authority. It's a tiny, modern restaurant and every single element was perfect!!! SIMPAR is tasting menu only, with two choices--one of 11 courses and one of fourteen, plus the offer to supplement these menus with one or both of two prize-winning dishes: Croquetas de Jamon and a Galician version of the quintessential Madrileno dish, callos, which is a brothy, hearty stew containing, among other ingredients, pig's stomach, tripe, and garbanzos. As much as I love Spanish food, I've never tasted callos. But we did add the croquettes to our menu.
I'll follow with photos of our wonderful dinner but want to post this for fear of losing what I've written. Ii also want to note that the restaurant opened at 9pm and we were the first diners to arrive. I'm surprised at how easily we are adjusting to Spanish meal times. It's become normal now to wander around and return to the room around 5pm for a nice relax and some computer time, then dress and wander out of the hotel around 8pm or so. The sun does not set until just after 1-pm, which bodes well for the next few weeks when we will have to drive to our dinner restaurant on most nights.
Yesterday afternoon I walked over to(over and up, up, p--very steep street and many steps!!) to a small beauty salon recommended to me by a woman working at the Parador. It's always fun to have a haircut in another country. This was a tiny one-woman operation and the experience was excellent. Not only did I get a shampoo, excellent haircut and blow dry (for 35 euro, which is a fraction of what I have to pay in New. York and the haircut yesterday, I think, was BETTER than the one I get back home.). But I stayed way past my appointment slot, as the owner and I engaged in an interesting discussion about politics or, rather, about immigration politics. I've heard variations of this before from Spaniards inn other regions, but the upshot of the conversation was this: She was puzzled as to why our current president had been elected (and very curious about the relationship he had with his wife). BUT she remarked that she wished that Spain would take a much harder line on immigration. She went on to explain how immigrant families from Venezuela, Cuba and the DR had moved into her neighborhood and that many of the young people carried knives which were used in frequent disputes on the street. She related that the government offered much financial help to families, and the more children in the family, the larger the benefit. She worried that someday the Gallegos would be outnumbered by immigrants and that her culture would begin to erode. All of this, of course, is so familiar as most Americans (and probably many from other countries) have heard variations on the same theme, along the lines of...these immigrant kids drop out of school and join gangs, they sell drugs, the parents do not supervise them, and this will be passed on through generations, and because they have so many children, the immigrants will be in the majority someday........ She was aware of what was happening in Los Angeles and was not totally opposed to finding some, more peaceful, way of deporting people without the proper credentials.....
I was surprised at how vehement she was and I suspect that she is far from the only person around who shares this sentiment.
On to more pleasant topics.......we had the best meal of our trip so far, last night, at SIMPAR, a new restaurant that has already gained a Michelin star and two "soles" from the Repsol, Spain's leading gastronomic authority. It's a tiny, modern restaurant and every single element was perfect!!! SIMPAR is tasting menu only, with two choices--one of 11 courses and one of fourteen, plus the offer to supplement these menus with one or both of two prize-winning dishes: Croquetas de Jamon and a Galician version of the quintessential Madrileno dish, callos, which is a brothy, hearty stew containing, among other ingredients, pig's stomach, tripe, and garbanzos. As much as I love Spanish food, I've never tasted callos. But we did add the croquettes to our menu.
I'll follow with photos of our wonderful dinner but want to post this for fear of losing what I've written. Ii also want to note that the restaurant opened at 9pm and we were the first diners to arrive. I'm surprised at how easily we are adjusting to Spanish meal times. It's become normal now to wander around and return to the room around 5pm for a nice relax and some computer time, then dress and wander out of the hotel around 8pm or so. The sun does not set until just after 1-pm, which bodes well for the next few weeks when we will have to drive to our dinner restaurant on most nights.
Jun 12th, 2025 | 10:53 PM
#20
Original Poster
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 25,275
Likes: 0
Our third dinner in Santiago de Compostela, at SIMPAR:
I asked for a non-dry wine to begin; our waiter suggested this Basque cider and it was THE best cider I've ever tasted. I snapped this pic so I could look for it on a future trip to the Pais Vasco, which I hope will be in the not-too-distant future. Look at the tiny bubbles ringing the top of the pour.
This is the shorter of the two tasting menus; we do not normally prefer tasting menus--an endless parade of dishes--far too many disparate tastes and far too much food, and often, far too expensive. This was different and we LOVED it....
Dinner began with SIMPAR'S version of "brunch:" Waldorf salad, in foreground, in half a Gem lettuce heart (notice the beautiful plate that holds it) ; "egg Benedict--" the yolk is savory meringue and the yellow is......downright delicious, but I forgot the ingredients!! Tartelets of almond in a frothy consistency, and "coffee," which was an intense and lovely hot mushroom broth, which we were instructed to sip after every bite of food. All as tasty as it is beautiful to look at, which would apply to the entire dinner.
The award-winning (I don't know the Spanish gastronomic competition in which this took the prize) Croqueta de Jamon Iberico....this was far superior to the usual croquettes de jamon, although almost all croquettes are delicious...these were a supplement to the tasting menu but my partner can never resist a croqueta, and especially Ann "award-winning" one!
The béchamel and jamon filling oozes out after a bite; notice the exquisite dishes--a different showcase for each course..this one was shimmering gold inside and matte white ceramic on the outside. And notice, too, the impeccable fry technique...no oil stains the plate.
I did not know that olive oil was produced in Galicia, but production is increasing; this example was fruity and so aromatic. The Galician Brava and Mansa olives come from trees of which many are over a hundred years old, that grow in Lugo province..to the east of Santiago. I'd like to buy a bottle to bring home, although harvest took place last fall.
Galicia bakes some of the best breads I've tasted in Spain and this was the best we've had on this trip, so far. Look at the pockets of air. If only I had a large duffel bag..and a tremendous freezer!!!! (I did bring a huge bread back from Matera once--it occupied almost my entire carry-on bag and I filled any extra space with bags of tarallli!!). The olive oil for dipping is shown in the white oval dish.
I asked for a non-dry wine to begin; our waiter suggested this Basque cider and it was THE best cider I've ever tasted. I snapped this pic so I could look for it on a future trip to the Pais Vasco, which I hope will be in the not-too-distant future. Look at the tiny bubbles ringing the top of the pour.
This is the shorter of the two tasting menus; we do not normally prefer tasting menus--an endless parade of dishes--far too many disparate tastes and far too much food, and often, far too expensive. This was different and we LOVED it....
Dinner began with SIMPAR'S version of "brunch:" Waldorf salad, in foreground, in half a Gem lettuce heart (notice the beautiful plate that holds it) ; "egg Benedict--" the yolk is savory meringue and the yellow is......downright delicious, but I forgot the ingredients!! Tartelets of almond in a frothy consistency, and "coffee," which was an intense and lovely hot mushroom broth, which we were instructed to sip after every bite of food. All as tasty as it is beautiful to look at, which would apply to the entire dinner.
The award-winning (I don't know the Spanish gastronomic competition in which this took the prize) Croqueta de Jamon Iberico....this was far superior to the usual croquettes de jamon, although almost all croquettes are delicious...these were a supplement to the tasting menu but my partner can never resist a croqueta, and especially Ann "award-winning" one!
The béchamel and jamon filling oozes out after a bite; notice the exquisite dishes--a different showcase for each course..this one was shimmering gold inside and matte white ceramic on the outside. And notice, too, the impeccable fry technique...no oil stains the plate.
I did not know that olive oil was produced in Galicia, but production is increasing; this example was fruity and so aromatic. The Galician Brava and Mansa olives come from trees of which many are over a hundred years old, that grow in Lugo province..to the east of Santiago. I'd like to buy a bottle to bring home, although harvest took place last fall.
Galicia bakes some of the best breads I've tasted in Spain and this was the best we've had on this trip, so far. Look at the pockets of air. If only I had a large duffel bag..and a tremendous freezer!!!! (I did bring a huge bread back from Matera once--it occupied almost my entire carry-on bag and I filled any extra space with bags of tarallli!!). The olive oil for dipping is shown in the white oval dish.
Last edited by ekscrunchy; Jun 12th, 2025 at 11:00 PM.
