Hello Fodors Friends! I have a somewhat last minute opportunity to attach a long-hoped for 10 or 11 night trip to Portugal (whether I can add that 11th night is TBD in the next few days) at the tail end of a work trip to France. I visited Lisbon for a few days 3 decades ago on a rushed see-as-much-as-possible Eurail pass budget trip. (All I really remember is that Lisbon was beautiful.) I’m an experienced solo female traveler. I’ve benefited from so much direct, generous, thoughtful advice from this community. Scads of TRs and discussion threads have also helped me immensely. They also populate my ever growing inspiration file. The opportunity to add on 10/11 nights in Portugal just fell into my lap. I’ve spent the weekend scouring TRs and browsing the HO. The time in Portugal would be from March 24-April 3 or 4th. I’d be so grateful for some advice on the parameters I need to nail down in the coming week—lodging, bases, and possibly pinpointing day trips (since that might influence the distribution of bases). I’ll have other questions after that and will continue researching things to see, eat, do, logistics…

Key passions: food (I’m not sure where I rate on the “EKSCrunchy scale,” but eating, talking about food, and looking at food in food markets is a major interest. Other passions: soaking up the feel of a place by walking endlessly (15 mile days are not unusual when I travel, and I love steep walks and hills). So that makes Porto and Lisbon ideal. I did take note of MaiTai Tom’s Lisbon mishap in his marvelous trip diary. I also love architecture and modern art; and I enjoy ceramics and tiles. I’m a city person; I’m not a drinker (the Douro Valley looks gorgeous, but I have visited wine growing regions elsewhere in Europe and South America, and I see this as a city trip so I'm not looking to do a day trip to the Douro Valley). I will be using public transport, though am not averse to hiring a driver or a guide for a day or two of day trips to smaller towns and to keep things simple in re logistics/planning. I don’t love beach or resorts areas. And I’m not a must see every church or monument in every place person. I also don’t mind a bit of shopping. I will want to bring home some tinned fish and I’ve been known to do some damage at Max Mara and El Corte Ingles (in Spain, and I see it’s in Portugal).

With all this in mind, here are my questions at this point (with apologies in advance that there will be more questions later).

**Bases and distribution of nights--thinking that I will base only in Lisbon and Porto--agree?.

I will definitely fly into Lisbon (after my work concludes in France) and fly out of Porto. I’ve checked flight options and this order makes most sense, given flight times and airline networks where I have points. Thinking of 5 or 6 nights in Lisbon, then 5 nights in Porto. OR, if I have to lose that 11th night in Portugal, then 5 nights in Lisbon and 5 nights in Porto. I’m open to thoughts on the distribution of nights.

It seems too short of a trip to spend a night in Coimbra. I really don’t care for 1 night stays (too much time lost in the hotel transfer). Similarly, seems to short of a trip to overnight in other places that sound lovely, such as Guimares, Braga, Evora, or Sintra.

**Daytrips—advice welcome
A definite is Sintra from Lisbon. Question: is Cabo da Roca worth adding onto the end of a day in Sintra? Public transportation to Sintra looks easy, cheap, and quick, But I’m not averse to going with a guide (private) to Sintra. Virginiafish mentioned one that she liked in her TR (though I welcome other leads).

Coimbra seems another must do day trip, though a long day. I can handle one very long day, especially if public transport is easy and direct, or I could go with a guide or driver. If the latter, I’d be grateful for any leads. Question: best to go to Coimbra as a day trip from Porto or Lisbon? BTW, I have spent considerable time at both Cambridge and Oxford University. I mention only to say that I appreciate amazing, old, atmospheric university towns (though Coimbra looks far more colorful and I would love to hear fado—if not in Coimbra then in Lisbon.) But I might feel like I don’t need to spend hours and hours looking at the university buildings. It sounds like there are some interesting art galleries in Coimbra.

Other places that jumped out at me from TRs I’ve read so far: Guimares (probably not Braga) from Porto. Given time constraints and my interests, I’m less inclined toward Evora (I have had the opportunity to see amazing Roman ruins in Italy, Spain...), Aveiro, or Caiscas on this trip. Clearly, I’ll need to return for another trip.

**Lodging--advice welcome:

I prefer boutiquey hotels, hotels with some character (rather than the sort of place where you’d stay when at a conference), small B&Bs where the owners live in the home (private bathroom a must); hotels with eclectic, artful interior design; and I love well renovated hotels in historic structures (but I really don’t like fusty, cluttered, dark hotels) . As a woman traveling alone, I very much value a staffed front desk with a responsive staff.

Lisbon lodging

Based on TRs (and not least Maribel’s responses to several Fodorites), I’ve narrowed my list to Hotel Britania Art Deco (available & in my price range); Altis Avenida (available; a smidge above my range, but I think doable). Any others I should be looking at?

I’m trying to stay in the $250-$275 per night range (breakfast not a big deal). Less certain about bec they come only from the NYT 36 Hours column are: HOTELHOTEL (available and in my price range) and Casa Balthazar (available and in my range, though the Balthazar’s website is not very clear, and I would need to write to see if the rate that I find attractive is refundable).

Just to head off these other Lisbon options (though they look great). The Avenida Palace is not available on my dates. The Corpo Santo looks lovely— but is above my price range. I did write to the hotel today to see what the flexible rate would be w/o breakfast (I’m not a big breakfast eater, and the “no breakfast” tab on the website wasn’t working). Total fa Baixa is a bit above my price range for my dates.

Porto lodging

Here, too, based on TRs I’ve narrowed to the following places. All have availability and are in my price range. Porto Gallery Guesthouse (very inexpensive, though the family room is the only one available, and I’m not sure about it); Duas Portas (inexpensive, some nice looking room available, though a little spare); Pousada de Porto (looks very nice even the nicer, bigger rooms are in my price range). Any others I should consider?

Deep thanks in advance for any reflections on my questions.

My thoughts:

I would strongly argue AGAINST a day trip to Sintra from Lisbon. It really deserves a nght or two, and honestly, being there during the middle of the day, along with all the other day trippers, could be quite unpleasant.

I thought Coimbra worth two nights. There’s much more there than “just” roaming a university town. Perhaps a guide book or two would provide what seems to be a much needed perspective.

For MY tastes, five or six nights in Lisbon would make sense. For MY tastes, five nights in Porto would be about two too many.

Good luck with your planning!

I like kja's timing

I think in March/April, Sintra can absolutely be done in a day trip from Lisbon. If you get an early start and get to Sintra before the day trippers you should be fine to explore the town and see Peña Palace (a great hike if so inclined from the town, hills and nice scenery, plan on about an hour trek). We will be in Porto for 7 nights in early April as well, and having been there for 5 nights a few years back, in my opinion you can stay busy in Porto for that duration, especially if you enjoy some fairly short train/bus rides to Guimaraes, Braga, Amarante, Viana do Castelo, and a very enjoyable one hour walk along the water to the beach area of Foz do Douro. My only concern is the weather, hoping to avoid the rain.

Thanks, bilboburgler and kia. Trip math so hard! Darn to my job. I'm not sure if I'm up for a 4 base trip w/in 11 nights. (I am confident that I will be able to keep the trip to 11 nights rather than 10 nights, but I get and appreciate your points and am giving them serious thought.

Not sure if these are reasonable analogies, but I I know that in Puglia, Italy (I recall bilboburgler married there) Alberbello is a common day trip. Indeed, I was glad to have spent two hours there looking around at the amazing architecture and then leave for other, quieter towns as part of a wonderful day spent with a private guide and driver. My trip math then didn't allow for an overnight in a trullo (and I kept Lecce as a wonderful multi-way base for regional exploration). In Andalucia, Spain I know some folks go to Cordoba as a day trip. I loved the 3 nights I spent in Cordoba last winter--walking in that quiet city and over the Roman Bridge at night was a relaxing, atmospheric treat. Sintra looks absolutely amazing and completely magical; Coimbra and environs look magical as well, and I appreciate what I see of its verdant beauty, Indeed, I enjoy parks very much.

If I were to take on board your excellent suggestions, I'd be looking at something like this:
Lisbon 5 nights (timing of flight connections make this my initial fly-in location, with a day trip to Sintra that would have me there as soon as the key sites open, and I suppose bing shuttled around by a guide would help move me around); then Coimbra 2 nights; and finally Porto 4 nights. OR, Lisbon 5 nights; Sintra 1 night (I've never done a 1 night stay and don't love the idea--it makes less sense for me, I think, to go straight from the Lisbon airport to spend one night in Sintra because the flight into Lisbon has me arriving there at 1pm); then Coimbra 2 nights; and finally Porto 3 nights (that's where I fly from to meet my connection back to the States). And of course if I go with either of these options, then will look back at TRs to get leads on lodging in Coimbra and Sintra). Decisions, decisions....thanks again for all

Mike1728, Thanks for your thoughts--all very helpful. Love the idea of keeping things simple (and slow), given the # of nights I'm playing with and my preference (know thyself) for avoiding any stay of fewer than 3 nights. It sounds like your suggestion might be that I skip Coimbra entirely on this trip, even as a long day trip from Porto with a guide. And understood that one cannot do everything one wants in a single, time limited trip and that I look instead at 1 or 2 day trips that are closer to Porto (indeed Guimareaes is very appealing to me). Will think some more, but am immensely grateful for the various thoughts shared.

On the rain, planning on taking my excellent knee length waterproof raincoat and waterproof walking shoes (along with a light down sweater). Hoping the weather holds.

Thanks, bilboburgler and kia. Trip math so hard! Darn to my job. I'm not sure if I'm up for a 4 base trip w/in 11 nights. (I am confident that I will be able to keep the trip to 11 nights rather than 10 nights, but I get and appreciate your points and am giving them serious thought.

Not sure if these are reasonable analogies, but I I know that in Puglia, Italy (I recall bilboburgler married there) Alberbello is a common day trip. Indeed, I was glad to have spent two hours there looking around at the amazing architecture and then leave for other, quieter towns as part of a wonderful day spent with a private guide and driver. My trip math then didn't allow for an overnight in a trullo (and I kept Lecce as a wonderful multi-way base for regional exploration). In Andalucia, Spain I know some folks go to Cordoba as a day trip. I loved the 3 nights I spent in Cordoba last winter--walking in that quiet city and over the Roman Bridge at night was a relaxing, atmospheric treat. Sintra looks absolutely amazing and completely magical; Coimbra and environs look magical as well, and I appreciate what I see of its verdant beauty, Indeed, I enjoy parks very much.

If I were to take on board your excellent suggestions, I'd be looking at something like this:
Lisbon 5 nights (timing of flight connections make this my initial fly-in location, with a day trip to Sintra that would have me there as soon as the key sites open, and I suppose bing shuttled around by a guide would help move me around); then Coimbra 2 nights; and finally Porto 4 nights. OR, Lisbon 5 nights; Sintra 1 night (I've never done a 1 night stay and don't love the idea--it makes less sense for me, I think, to go straight from the Lisbon airport to spend one night in Sintra because the flight into Lisbon has me arriving there at 1pm); then Coimbra 2 nights; and finally Porto 3 nights (that's where I fly from to meet my connection back to the States). And of course if I go with either of these options, then will look back at TRs to get leads on lodging in Coimbra and Sintra). Decisions, decisions....thanks again for all

If you only want to see the Pena Palace, a day trip to Sintra is possible. I can't imagine seeing all of Sintra's magnificent palaces / parks in a single day trip at ANY time of year. If Sintra is a priority, two nights would give you time to see a fair amount -- one or two sites after your flight, night # 1, the rest of the major sites in a LONG 2nd day, night # 2, off you go.

Mike1728 makes a good point about day trip options from Porto. I saw the places he mentions by staying in them rather than as day trips, and I was glad to have the extra time. Up to you.

FWIW, I think of trip reports as an excellent way to supplement information in guidebooks, not a replacement for them.

Thanks for the helpful reflections, kja-I appreciate what you've said.

Still mulling the base (and distribution thereof) issue in view of comments here, elsewhere in the forum, and some guidebooks. Truly an embarrassment of riches in just the few places I hope to visit during a relatively short trip (11 night trip). And I just happened on this goldmine of a thread featuring the incomparable Maribel's reflections on Sintra (with lots of navigation advice, lodging notes). https://www.fodors.com/community/eur...3-printthread/. I can see that a great guide in Sintra would be very helpful to me. I'd welcome any recommendations for a guide whom I might hire for at least a day in Sintra (even if I end up "stealing" a nite or two from Lisbon or Porto to spend a night or two there). Decisions...decisions, but good "problems" to have. Thanks for any leads on a Sintra guide!

Hi studenttobe,
As to the Sintra tour guide, I´ve used the services of the lovely ladies of ¨Lisbon Tour Guides¨, Luisa, Paula, Isabel, and Luisa took maitaitom´s group around. It appears that their web page has been hacked, but here is their email,
[email protected] and they are on Facebook.
If you do decide on a day trip, a very skilled guide can pivot around the crowds, handle the timing better (luckily, you'll miss the Easter crush) and will most likely suggest limiting your visit to 2, or at the very most 3, monuments, skipping the interiors of the Pena Palace. My favorites: National Palace, Quita da Regaleira (for the grounds) and the peaceful and beautiful Monserrate, far from the crowds and so serene.
A fine tour guide would also most likely talk you out of the Cabo da Roca add on, as it's really not worthy of the time, ime. Maitaitom's and progol's photography of Sintra in their TRs are stunning!

I'll just repeat here what I sent in my PM regarding Porto hotels----
Regarding a Porto hotel, you have many new options this year as major chains have opened numerous 4 and 5-star hotels. We have a trip scheduled for Nov. and will be staying at the 5-star Porto Bay Flores because we enjoy the location on the pedestrianized Rua das Flores, near to our favorite bistrots, tasteful shops and both Castro & Manteigaria for pasteis de nata. It receives a 9.4 rating on booking.com, a 5 on TA and comes Michelin recommended. Our Nov rate is reasonable but Nov is low season while spring is not.
On that same street you have the Pousada and the Casa de Companhia and on a steep side street, the historic Infante Sagres, now managed by the Hospes group (like Córdoba's Palacio de Bailío), which is a "grande dame" type with a classic interior with beautiful stained glass. I'm admittedly picky about my hotels, so I don't think you can go wrong with any of those 3, if the price is within your budget.
I admittedly am not fond of the location at all around the Se, Cathedral, so I wouldn't choose the Tapestry, or the major "high street" shopping street of Santa Catarina where the (ime overpriced, over rated Cafe Majestic sits), or the super busy and touristy Ribeira district by the river. But these are personal opinions.
I do know the Duas Portas but it's in Foz, where the Douro meets the Atlantic, and you would need to go back and forth constantly on the 500 bus, so that would take up valuable time and not be handy for your day trips.

I wouldn't make an exception to your "3 days in a base" rule. I'm of the same thinking. I would do 6 nights in Lisbon and 5 in Porto with day trips if you do have 11 nights. . This will give you the opportunity to get to know more thoroughly each city.

I feel that Coimbra deserves at least 2 nights. I wouldn't try to make it a day trip from either Lisbon or Porto.

As to Lisbon hotels, as you know we are regulars at the Art Deco Britania because we love the service, both at the front desk and by the chambermaids, the affordable sr. rate w/breakfast, the bountiful breakfasts, the unlimited Nespresso!, the complimentary port and tea service in the evening and the quiet location off, not on, the Avenida da Liberdade. The Porto Bay Liberdade does have a nice location on a mansion-filled side street, across the Avenida, to the east. I wouldn't miss the delightful decorative arts museum, Medeiros & Almeida on that street,
Maitaitom enjoyed his stay at the contemporary Altis on bustling Rossio square, and we loved its rooftop terrace, but the area does get congested. That said, it is handy to catch the train from Rossio to Sintra.
If you need to be in the flat but very, very busy Baixa, I would seek a hotel on a quiet square removed from the crowds. Since the Corpo Santo is beyond your budget, I'd consider the Alma Lusa.

Regards,
Maribel

Frustration! I just submitted a very lengthy reply and it's in purgatory! Stay tuned!
Regards,
Maribel

Thank you, Maribel, and I will

We much preferred Sintra to Lisbon and spent a couple nights in both places. We also preferred Porto to Lisbon.

Hello Maribel—WOW! And a million thanks!!!! Your reply is an absolute goldmine and tremendously generous and thoughtful (as always). Thank you so much. I’ve just snagged a refundable room at an attractive rate at the Art Deco Britania in Lisbon. (Last night when I checked their site only the pricier—i.e., outside my budget—rooms were available. But this morning a room in my budget opened up as someone must have cancelled—yeah!). And I’ll be following up to make a Porto lodging booking as per your guidance in a few minutes.

I’ll contact the Sintra (my computer keeps autocorrecting as Sinatra) guides you suggested immediately. Thanks for both the lead and the tips on what it makes sense to focus on and what to avoid on a Sintra guided tour, given the time that I have.

Point taken and appreciated re Coimbra. (I see that another trip must be in my future.)

From my Porto base, if I wanted to make 1 day trip, would you suggest Guimares (and possibly Braga)? Do you think that these are fine on a self-guided basis? (I’m generally comfortable and enjoy self-guided exploration. But when a site is sufficiently complex, hard to navigate with lots of moving around as in Sintra, or where one benefits a lot from having someone to drive so as to provide more of a short look in at several small towns type of experience, then I am game for a day with a private guide.) If you think it would be helpful, is there a guide whom you might recommend? And if a second day trip from Porto (though less likely from my 5 night Porto stay), is there another that you’d suggest? I’m less inclined toward Evora and Aveiro, though am always open to being told I’m wrong. Many, many thanks for all. You made my day and everyone has been so helpful in this unusually rapidly planned trip.

Thanks very uch, Julies—I really appreciate your sharing your perspective. It’s really helpful.

Hi studenttobe,
We contacted Paula at Lisbon Tour Guides via the email that I listed to tell her that her website wasn't working.

As to day trips to Guimarães or Braga, they are not at all as busy or complex as a day trip to Sintra, which is one of the cruise lines most popular day excursions from the Lisbon port.
We've both day tripped and spent several nights in Guimarães, as we loved the Alberto Sampaio religious art museum (progol has great photos), the churches, the ducal palace, the castle, the general laid back atmosphere and charm of the pedestrianized medieval quarter. Progol spent several nights there as well.
Ms_go spent several nights in Braga. It depends on which appeals most to you. For Braga, one of the main attractions is the monumental staircase of Bom Jesus, outside of town, and it's the ecclesiastical capital of Portugal. Guimarães is the cradle or birthplace of Portugal. Both very worthy.
Compare the two with Julia Dawn Fox's notes, these for Guimarães and these for Braga and these for Bom Jesus. We loved our trips to Guimarães but need to get back to Braga (but with our car, so as to return to the ruins of the celtic castro).

There are Porto-based small group tour companies, such as Cooltour Oporto, that do both cities plus Bom Jesus plus lunch in the same 8 or 9-hour day, if you want to take these all in in one fell swoop. Cooltour Oporto does offer a totally private tour for all of this, but for one person would be prohibitively inexpensive.

We've spent a great deal of time in Evora and the rest of Alentejo, all best seen in several days and by car. The Alentejo is my second favorite region in Portugal (but not in summer!!!) along with the Minho (Guimarães, Braga, Ponte de Lima, Viana do Castelo). I would urge you to save the very richly rewarding Alentejo for another trip, the land of castles, charming perched white fortress towns, immense cork forests, cattle ranches, bull raising ranches, star gazing, olive oil farms, historic pousadas, pre-historic ruins, fab food and wine. It's all good, but not in June-July-August!

I also wouldn't take time away from Porto to make the day trip to Aveiro (not exactly "the Venice of Portugal")

Hope this helps!

This is BEYOND helpful, Maribel. Thank you so very much for everything you shared (and even for including the hyperlinks). All that you've said is so useful. Indeed, I'm already imagining future trips to Portugal after the March/April trip, and perhaps one with a companion who can take a rental car. I will save your response as well for when I start to envision the future trips. Deep debt to you and others here for getting my rapidly-planned trip in great order in such a short span! Today is booking and outreach day for me and you've given me all that I need to get things nailed down Thank you!!!

PS Maribel-thanks for confirming what I assumed in re Aveiro. Having had the great fortune of quite a few longish stays in Venice over the years I was assuming Aveiro was a pass for me

My favorite Porto shopping--

pastéis de nata (custard tarts) at Castro and Manteigaria
fashions make of burel wool at Loja da Burel
Cosmetics at Benamor 1925
Cool t shirts at Lufa Lufa
Tined fish at Loja das Conservas
Chocolate tubes in multiple flavors at Meia Dúzia and chocolates at Chocolataria Equador
Claus Porto and Castebel for soaps and hand creams and scented candles
Tiles at Prometeu Artesanato
Gourmet items at Confeitaria do Bolhâo