After much vacillating, I have now booked tickets to Buenos Aires for Jan 2026. I have had an initial stab at an itinerary but would appreciate some input/opinions on certain aspects, specifically :

1. Torres del Paine - I appreciate that it is regarded as the eighth wonder of the world but is it really worth the eye-watering accommodation costs? The received wisdom seems to be to stay in the park itself to avoid the long drives in and out from Puerto Natales but I am really struggling to find any slightly reasonable accommodation (other than camping or shared dorms). Any suggestions for accommodation ?
2. Tierra del Fuego/Ushuaia - since watching a documentary about two Americans that drove the highway in the 1950s one of my long held aims has been to travel the length of the Pan-American Highway. We are "missing" the section between Bariloche and Ushuaia. I am just wondering whether it is worth including Tierra del Fuego just for the "bragging rights". Opinions seem mixed on whether there is that much to see there. Anybody been? Is it worth it? We would likely fly there from BA and the go on to El Calafate.

I will post separately about our itinerary once I have clarified my thoughts on these two option. For background , we will fly into BA 08 Jan 26 and leave around three weeks later.
TIA

Hola, Crellston! Was just logging in to South America to report on our just recently completed birding trip to Guyana and came upon your message re Torres Del Paine.

My advice - don’t miss it! We thought it spectacular. Perhaps the highlight of our 2 month trip to Argentina/Chile some years ago, (we have a trip report on Fodors). I remember the ghastly prices of staying in the park! Hence we stayed in Puerto Natales at the Westkar Lodge, rented a car and drove in and out. It all worked fine. A lot of driving as you mentioned. But you two are stalwarts. Whether you decide to pay the big bucks to stay in the park, or opt for long drives from PN, I don’t think you’ll regret it - even knowing what great experiences you’ve had in the past. Argentina has so much variety to offer: Patagonia, BA, Iguazu, its more rugged northwest reminiscent of the US souhwest…and so on….

Hi Glover, so glad you responded! I read through your trip report. (I had forgotten we had similar travel styles!). I am reassured by your comments re travelling in from Puerto Natales each day . That was my first thought but the idea was put off by comments on TA who were insistent that it was too far. However, reading you TR made me realise that we would likely be doing much the same as you guys, driving around taking in the views with the odd hike thrown in rather than hard core hiking etc. which seems to be the objective of the majority. So I think that is what we will do.

I know it was a while ago but I found the comments within your TR to be invaluable. As a result , I may well be reversing my decision not to go to El Chalten. Still not sure about Ushuaia though!

If you want to hike to the Towers, I'd try to stay a night or two at one of the Las Torres lodgings (Fantastico Sur). Even the newer Refugio Central isn't too bad. However, I can't see how to book for those dates. You may have to Chat with them.

Otherwise since you are okay driving, I think Puerto Natales is fine.

If you want to stay in Punta Arenas I think you'd love La Casa Escondida.

I too agree that Torres del Paine is worthwhile but I would hate to be driving to and from Puerto Natales every day. The roads are not that great after you leave the pavement. Given that most of us seem to be spending a lot of time hiking around the park, adding hours of rough driving before and after is not appealing. The hotels in the park are expensive but usually include your meals and activities. I think we paid about $1000 a night for Rio Serrano about 6 years ago which was a much better deal than some of the London hotels I have stayed in. I think however there may be an ala carte price which is cheaper. The Explora on the other hand is in another league price wise.
I did not mind Ushuaia. Did not do the Beagle channel as I get sea sick but did have a nice visit with the penguins on a land based tour. Great inexpensive seafood. Hotels not expensive. Glad I went but not as compelling a destination as TDP or El Chalten.

Thanks ISH , I had a quick look at those places and you are correct, like many I have looked at so far, they do not appear to have released those dates yet. I think I am a bit previous in my planning! Good to get all my ducks in a row ready for when they are released though.

Thanks for the thoughts mjs, especially re El Chalten. Your comments and those of glover, prompted me to do a little research on a few blogs comparing the relative merits of EC v TDP. I am unlikely to be up for extended or lengthy hiking on this trip and am leaning towards a few days in EC, where the hikes seem to be shorter, easier and direct from the town and skipping TDP completely. Alternatively I may just spend one night within the park, rent and drive to some of the key miradors and take a few short hikes on the way there and more on the way back to Puerto Natales.

With regards to accommodation, I am not sure I see the relevance of comparing London hotels with TDP? I have found one place, Hosteria Pehoe which is less outrageously which appears to be in a great location. It has poor reviews but it is only for one night.

Much as I would have loved to have done the Navimag cruise over 4 days, the risk of the departure being delayed for 2 or 3 days or even longer is just too high on a three week trip. The key decisions now are whether to include Tierra del Fuego or not and whether to drive to Bariloche from El Calafate via El Bolson or to fly to Puerto Montt and tick another item off the bucket list item, the Cruce Andino crossing by ferry and bus/bike from Puerto Varas to Bariloche.

Thanks all, it may seem confusing but your comments have helped me immensely.

My South America trip was back in 2012, but the scenery is likely still the same. Since I wasn't planning much hiking I stayed in Puerto Natales and took a bus trip in to TdP. I was very lucky with the weather and happy with my decision. The next day I took the Navimag boat north. I didn't go further south because I figured I might visit Ushuaia on the way to Antarctica some day. Highly recommend the Cruce Andino crossing.

It was from you that I first learnt of the Navimag cruise Thursdaysd, I think via your blog (probably the Cruce Andino crossing two) .Oh that I had acted sooner when our trips were 6 months plus rather than the one month we will have this time! Lewis Carroll got it right when he said "In the end, we only regret the chances we didn't take".

I suppose I could look at taking the trip in the reverse direction a few days stuck in Puerto Montt going south may be preferable as we could divert to Chiloe for a few days if delayed. Never mind, the Cruce Andino is a definite - which way did you do it Bariloche- Puerto Varas or VV?

We had our Buenos Aires Travel agent arrange our Patagonia trip based loosely on a National Geographic tour. We flew to Bariloche from BA and spent 3 nights. Reminded me a little of Lake Tahoe. Took Cruce Andino crossing to Puerto Varas where we spent one night. Arranged car and driver to Puerto Montt and took a flight to Punta Arenas where we spent one night. Hotel bus picked us up in the early morning for transfer to TDP where we spent 4 nights. Arranged car and driver to EL Chalten with a switch of car and driver at the border. Two nights EC. Flight to Ushuaia where we spent 3 nights. Flight back to BA.
I do not know what the prices for hotels in TDP are now but suspect they are significantly higher than 2019 just like the hotels I stay at in such places as London, Paris, Tokyo..... While the hotels in TDP are expensive, TDP is in the middle of nowhere and the hotels need to house and feed their workers and import supplies from a long way. The hotels tend to be all inclusive so your meals and drinks and guides for hiking or horse back riding etc are all included. Our costs also were for two adults. So, although expensive, it's not that out of line in comparison to hotels in cities that are not all inclusive. It is likely for most of us a once in a lifetime trip. You can stay cheaper at places along the W. I did not go to Puerto Natales but was told it was about a 2 hour drive from TDP. I would maximize your time in TDP given the time and costs to get there. Weather can also be unpredictable and it would be unfortunate if you hit a bad spell on your brief time in TDP.

Hi, this is mjs’s fiancé. I went to El Chacon on a solo trip in January 2020 and loved the hikes there. While you can do some close to town, the really great hikes are all day hikes that take you out into the mountains and glacial lakes. They aren’t difficult at first, but as you get into the mountains they can become quite steep (I didn’t go to the top of one peak because I’d been hiking for about 5 hours already and it was a lot of steps up – Crellston, I know you are familiar with Machu Picchu – think Waynapicchu after hiking for 5-6 hours straight). At TDP I just did half-day hikes and they were not terribly strenuous (I didn’t go to the towers). What makes TDP hiking so difficult is the wind. I wouldn’t give up either place, if you can help it. I also took a 3 day cruise through the fjords from Puerto Arena to Ushuaia, which was terrific. I’m not a big fan of cruises, but this was the only way to see the glaciers from inside the fjords, and it was stunning. The nature guides were great and we went on 2-3 excursions each day, hiking or watching penguins or bird colonies from zodiacs and the shore. If the weather permits, you stop at Cape Horn, which is pretty amazing.

Hi crellston, carpe diem, carpe diem. I'm so glad I traveled when I did. I did the Cruce Andino from west to eat, stopping off in Puella for a night. I didn't have to wait on the Navimag boat, but it hadn't sailed the week before. Can't really recommend Chiloe. The views in Bariloche are spectacular, but the glaciers around El Calafate were the stars of the trip - along with the Iguazu falls.