Cinque de Terre, Tuscany, and Venice
Oct 22nd, 2024 | 04:54 PM
#1
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 272
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Cinque de Terre, Tuscany, and Venice
Hi everybody.
First and foremost, thank you all for all your help.
We just returned from our trip and I wanted to give you the highlights both good and bad.
Overall, the trip was wonderful. We could have done better with weather but we made it work.
Flew from Boston to JFK and then a 7-hour flight to Milan. Long flight and basically unable to sleep. (We just can’t sleep on a plane). Arrived in Milan and had a driver pick us up (pre-arranged) and drive 3 hours+ to Cinque Terre. As you may imagine we were quite tired.
Cinque Terre: Arrived to our hotel, La Torretta Lodge. Absolutely amazing. Had a balcony and
Ocean View. Great hospitality, location (Manarola) and breakfast’s.
On the day of arrival it was a beautiful day and although we were tired we knew
that the next 2 days were not going to be that good in terms of weather so we jumped on the train to the furthest village of Monterosso and hiked to Vernaza, explored the village, then hiked to Corniglia. We took trail #2 and had pre-purchased online the combo train and hike pass (highly recommend this). These three villages took several hours and the hiking included some considerable back and forth elevation gains and losses yet absolutely beautiful coastline scenery for the most part. At this point it was getting late so we took the train from Corniglia back to our home village of Manarola. As an FYI for those who have never been there, be prepared for approx. 400 steps from the village of Corniglia to the train station. Going down from the village isn’t bad but the other way can be quite a workout. Once back to our hotel we washed up, got ready and headed back via train to Corniglia for dinner at the Cantina da Mananan. You must make reservations beforehand. They are small and have only two seatings, i.e., 6 and 8pm. Many restaurants throughout the trip only offered two different times ranging typically at either 7:30 or 9:30pm. This restaurant is fantastic so don’t miss it.
Day 2: we took the train to Riamaggiore. Weather was cloudy with light sprinkles/rain at times. The hike is only 1-way from Riamaggiore to Manarola. This section of the trail is very short in length (about 20 minutes) and recently renovated and re-opened. To recover the costs they make you purchase a ticket that costs roughly 9 euros per person. You must do that at the gate before they let you pass through. Although a very short level walk it was well worth it based on the coastal views. After exploring the village of Riamagiorre we walked back to Manarola, explored the village, then returned to the hotel, washed up and had dinner at Trattoria Dal Billy’s. Also highly recommended and must have a recommendation. Service is fantastic here!
Day 3: this was the worst of the weather. They had an Orange alert due to heavy rains and winds expected. Our sunset cruise was cancelled and only very few restaurants throughout CT were allowed to remain open. Regardless we did travel to Monterosso by train in the morning and explored the village throughout the day. We had originally planned to dine in Vernaza but were forced to eat in Manarola at D’Aristide. I would give it an above average rating.
In summary, CT is beautiful with or without good weather. We were fortunate to have one beautiful day and managed to make the best of it for the other 2. Food was wonderful and make sure you take advantage of the Ligurian specialties, e.g., Pesto sauce and anchovies. The combo train, bus, and hiking pass is essential. You will use it many times throughout your stay. The trains although crowded at times are very efficient and only takes approx. 3 minutes between villages. We would absolutely go again!!
On the 4th day we took the train in Manarola to La Spezia and then changed trains to Florence. Took us a little to get used to their system and signage but we managed. They have plenty of people their working that may assist.
This train was packed so storage of luggage and finding seats were challenging. It was about a 2.5 hour ride. Once arrived we walked (20 minutes) to our hotel Lucchesi in Florence. Hotel was very nice, perfectly situated to everything, right on the river and opposite Piazzale Michaelangelo. Rooms, typical of hotels in Florence were very small. Buffet breakfast was included which was fantastic.
Florence:
Day 4: After check in, we immediately took to the streets to explore. It is an
amazing city throughout. During our walk we met a man who owned a suit shop.
He asked where we were from and once we said Boston he took us into his shop
and showed us pictures of him and his staff with the New England Patriots
players and owners who have visited his shop in the past for suits. He, as most people we encountered throughout the trip, was extremely friendly. And most spoke English, although I had practiced my Italian via Duolingo before the trip and tried my best throughout the vacation. He convinced us to go to a restaurant called La Casalinga. We were able to make reservations for the late seating and thoroughly enjoyed it. Great service, atmosphere, wine, and food.
Day 5: We had a scheduled walking tour of Accademia Gallery-David, Santa
Croce, Duomo, Palazzo Vecchio, and Plaza della Signoria. Tour was fantastic and
we appreciated the art and sculptures we did see. Then it was back to walking
the streets, stopping for Gelato which our tour guide insisted was the best in
Florence, and walking to Piazzale Michaelangelo. For dinner, I was fortunate to
Make reservations about two months in advance at La Giostra. Highly
recommended.
Summary: great city. For us 2 full days were enough. The walking tour was
outstanding, just the right amount of time which allowed us the time to explore
the city by foot. We must have walked, at minimum, 12 miles which is exactly
what we like to do. Weather was cloudy on day 1 but we were fortunate to have
a good amount of sun on day 2 especially when we explored Piazzale
Michaelangelo. For food, ravioli’s and other pastas were
our choice. The steak is highly recommended but I just couldn’t go for the rare
steak that they cook and to ask for it to be cooked differently would be an insult.
On the next morning we were picked up by a pre-arranged driver and driven to Villa Bordoni in Greve, Tuscany. Another outstanding small villa with great views, service, and buffet breakfast, right in the heart of Tuscany. They also have a pool which was open. They have their own winery but not open for touring. Fantastic setting.
Tuscany:
Day 6: On the way to Tuscany from Florence our driver stopped at the US WWII
memorial which contained beautiful decorated grounds and graves for fallen
American soldiers during WW!!. After that we stopped at the Castellinuzza e
Piuca winery for a wine tasting and a full course lunch (Starters, Salad, Lasagna,
Desert). Outstanding!
On the way to the Villa our driver stopped at the Greve piazza (square) and gave
us some time to walk around. Once at the hotel we rested and had dinner there.
Limited menu but outstanding quality.
Day 7: After our breakfast buffet (delicious!!) we went on a great tour to/of
Siena. After the tour we went back to the Villa and simply lied by the pool. Weather was great, nice and sunny, a little cool yet great. For dinner we walked down to the center of Greve (about a 45 min beautiful walk) and had dinner at Caffe Le Logge. All the restaurants were outstanding offering the Italian dcor, vibe, and menu especially the wines! We arranged for a ride back by the hotel with a local driver ($30e).
Day 8: After another huge breakfast, we decided we would explore Tuscany by
foot (at least the area where we were). We walked through acres and acres of
vineyards and Olive trees from our Villa to Panzano then to Greve and then to
Montefiorallii for dinner at La Castellana. This may have been one of my favorite
experiences.
Summary: At this point, deciding between CT or Tuscany as my favorite was very
difficult although I may have to give Tuscany the edge (I’m still undecided) with
plenty of local Chianti Classico for red wine and miles and miles beautiful
scenery. Villa Bordoni should be on your list!
On the next morning we were picked up by a pre-arranged driver (same as the last one) who drove us back to the Florence train station for our trip to Venice. This time there were no worries about first come first serve since we had reserved seats. This trip took about 3 hours. The ride was fine but not extremely scenic. Upon arrival were met by a pre-arranged escort who guided us to a scheduled water taxi to our hotel, Hotel L’Orologio.
Day 9: After check in, we starting exploring similar to when in Florence. Our hotel was
right on the Grand Canal minutes from the Rialto Bridge and St Mark’s Square. Our room
had canal view (well worth the price). We loved Venice walking around the narrow
passages over endless canals. Venice should be on everybody’s list! The dialect is quite
different in Venice than in other parts of Italy. So as soon as I thought I was catching on
with the language then came Venice!
After some great exploration and yes, many pictures, we went back
to the hotel, washed up, and had dinner at San Sivestro’s. Thumbs up! Great ambience,
service, food, and yup, wine! It’s a great idea to make reservations well in advance as I
did.
Day 10: Another big breakfast buffet and then off on a walking tour of St. Mark’s square, Doge’s Palace, and the Basillica. I was so intrigued by the tour and our tour guide Monica that I now must get the “History of Venice” book to learn even more! After the tour, more exploring by foot, and then dinner at Oficina Ormesini where I had to try the baccala (salted cod) and their sardines and so happy I did.
Day 11: By now I expect the breakfast buffet, and then of course more exploring. We walked to many of the different regions of Venice. I found out that they have sections with parks and trees. Like every area we stayed, there were plenty of caf’s, bars, trattorias, osterias, shops, gelato, bakeries, and more. Had dinner at Osteria Sora Al Ponte where I finally had my Tiramisu.
Summary: As mentioned, Venice is a must see. The weather throughout was mostly
cloudy with brief exposure to some sun throughout the stay. While in Venice you must
have Fish. It is what they specialize in and you will not be disappointed. Now that we
explored Venice I think I have a 3-way tie for which place was my favorite. Don’t get me
wrong, Florence is absolutely beautiful and comes in at a very, very close 2nd.
Day 12: Early pickup (7:30am) to the airport. However, we still managed to fit the breakfast buffet in (it started at 7:00am). Very long flight to Atlanta (10 hours). However, this didn’t seem as bad as on the way to Milan from NY. I assume because I didn’t really need to sleep although the time change would definitely catch up to us the next day. Then a 2.5 hour flight to Boston.
Final summary: would do it all over again. Leaving Venice was not an issue at all. Scenery, sights, hotels, people, food, beer, and wine were outstanding! Consistent fresh bread at every restaurant. Extra Virgin Olive Oil on top of everything! Gelato, deserts, pastries, sauces, fish, all out of this world.
I know this was a long summary but I feel like I am only touching the tip of the iceberg here. I just wanted to share some detail in case it helps anybody or causes some inquiries of further information. Like all of you did, I’m happy to share and again we are extremely grateful for all of your input which helped put all of this together. Wish we were still there but for now, off to planning the next trip(s).
Please excuse any type errors.
Thanks again, W
First and foremost, thank you all for all your help.
We just returned from our trip and I wanted to give you the highlights both good and bad.
Overall, the trip was wonderful. We could have done better with weather but we made it work.
Flew from Boston to JFK and then a 7-hour flight to Milan. Long flight and basically unable to sleep. (We just can’t sleep on a plane). Arrived in Milan and had a driver pick us up (pre-arranged) and drive 3 hours+ to Cinque Terre. As you may imagine we were quite tired.
Cinque Terre: Arrived to our hotel, La Torretta Lodge. Absolutely amazing. Had a balcony and
Ocean View. Great hospitality, location (Manarola) and breakfast’s.
On the day of arrival it was a beautiful day and although we were tired we knew
that the next 2 days were not going to be that good in terms of weather so we jumped on the train to the furthest village of Monterosso and hiked to Vernaza, explored the village, then hiked to Corniglia. We took trail #2 and had pre-purchased online the combo train and hike pass (highly recommend this). These three villages took several hours and the hiking included some considerable back and forth elevation gains and losses yet absolutely beautiful coastline scenery for the most part. At this point it was getting late so we took the train from Corniglia back to our home village of Manarola. As an FYI for those who have never been there, be prepared for approx. 400 steps from the village of Corniglia to the train station. Going down from the village isn’t bad but the other way can be quite a workout. Once back to our hotel we washed up, got ready and headed back via train to Corniglia for dinner at the Cantina da Mananan. You must make reservations beforehand. They are small and have only two seatings, i.e., 6 and 8pm. Many restaurants throughout the trip only offered two different times ranging typically at either 7:30 or 9:30pm. This restaurant is fantastic so don’t miss it.
Day 2: we took the train to Riamaggiore. Weather was cloudy with light sprinkles/rain at times. The hike is only 1-way from Riamaggiore to Manarola. This section of the trail is very short in length (about 20 minutes) and recently renovated and re-opened. To recover the costs they make you purchase a ticket that costs roughly 9 euros per person. You must do that at the gate before they let you pass through. Although a very short level walk it was well worth it based on the coastal views. After exploring the village of Riamagiorre we walked back to Manarola, explored the village, then returned to the hotel, washed up and had dinner at Trattoria Dal Billy’s. Also highly recommended and must have a recommendation. Service is fantastic here!
Day 3: this was the worst of the weather. They had an Orange alert due to heavy rains and winds expected. Our sunset cruise was cancelled and only very few restaurants throughout CT were allowed to remain open. Regardless we did travel to Monterosso by train in the morning and explored the village throughout the day. We had originally planned to dine in Vernaza but were forced to eat in Manarola at D’Aristide. I would give it an above average rating.
In summary, CT is beautiful with or without good weather. We were fortunate to have one beautiful day and managed to make the best of it for the other 2. Food was wonderful and make sure you take advantage of the Ligurian specialties, e.g., Pesto sauce and anchovies. The combo train, bus, and hiking pass is essential. You will use it many times throughout your stay. The trains although crowded at times are very efficient and only takes approx. 3 minutes between villages. We would absolutely go again!!
On the 4th day we took the train in Manarola to La Spezia and then changed trains to Florence. Took us a little to get used to their system and signage but we managed. They have plenty of people their working that may assist.
This train was packed so storage of luggage and finding seats were challenging. It was about a 2.5 hour ride. Once arrived we walked (20 minutes) to our hotel Lucchesi in Florence. Hotel was very nice, perfectly situated to everything, right on the river and opposite Piazzale Michaelangelo. Rooms, typical of hotels in Florence were very small. Buffet breakfast was included which was fantastic.
Florence:
Day 4: After check in, we immediately took to the streets to explore. It is an
amazing city throughout. During our walk we met a man who owned a suit shop.
He asked where we were from and once we said Boston he took us into his shop
and showed us pictures of him and his staff with the New England Patriots
players and owners who have visited his shop in the past for suits. He, as most people we encountered throughout the trip, was extremely friendly. And most spoke English, although I had practiced my Italian via Duolingo before the trip and tried my best throughout the vacation. He convinced us to go to a restaurant called La Casalinga. We were able to make reservations for the late seating and thoroughly enjoyed it. Great service, atmosphere, wine, and food.
Day 5: We had a scheduled walking tour of Accademia Gallery-David, Santa
Croce, Duomo, Palazzo Vecchio, and Plaza della Signoria. Tour was fantastic and
we appreciated the art and sculptures we did see. Then it was back to walking
the streets, stopping for Gelato which our tour guide insisted was the best in
Florence, and walking to Piazzale Michaelangelo. For dinner, I was fortunate to
Make reservations about two months in advance at La Giostra. Highly
recommended.
Summary: great city. For us 2 full days were enough. The walking tour was
outstanding, just the right amount of time which allowed us the time to explore
the city by foot. We must have walked, at minimum, 12 miles which is exactly
what we like to do. Weather was cloudy on day 1 but we were fortunate to have
a good amount of sun on day 2 especially when we explored Piazzale
Michaelangelo. For food, ravioli’s and other pastas were
our choice. The steak is highly recommended but I just couldn’t go for the rare
steak that they cook and to ask for it to be cooked differently would be an insult.
On the next morning we were picked up by a pre-arranged driver and driven to Villa Bordoni in Greve, Tuscany. Another outstanding small villa with great views, service, and buffet breakfast, right in the heart of Tuscany. They also have a pool which was open. They have their own winery but not open for touring. Fantastic setting.
Tuscany:
Day 6: On the way to Tuscany from Florence our driver stopped at the US WWII
memorial which contained beautiful decorated grounds and graves for fallen
American soldiers during WW!!. After that we stopped at the Castellinuzza e
Piuca winery for a wine tasting and a full course lunch (Starters, Salad, Lasagna,
Desert). Outstanding!
On the way to the Villa our driver stopped at the Greve piazza (square) and gave
us some time to walk around. Once at the hotel we rested and had dinner there.
Limited menu but outstanding quality.
Day 7: After our breakfast buffet (delicious!!) we went on a great tour to/of
Siena. After the tour we went back to the Villa and simply lied by the pool. Weather was great, nice and sunny, a little cool yet great. For dinner we walked down to the center of Greve (about a 45 min beautiful walk) and had dinner at Caffe Le Logge. All the restaurants were outstanding offering the Italian dcor, vibe, and menu especially the wines! We arranged for a ride back by the hotel with a local driver ($30e).
Day 8: After another huge breakfast, we decided we would explore Tuscany by
foot (at least the area where we were). We walked through acres and acres of
vineyards and Olive trees from our Villa to Panzano then to Greve and then to
Montefiorallii for dinner at La Castellana. This may have been one of my favorite
experiences.
Summary: At this point, deciding between CT or Tuscany as my favorite was very
difficult although I may have to give Tuscany the edge (I’m still undecided) with
plenty of local Chianti Classico for red wine and miles and miles beautiful
scenery. Villa Bordoni should be on your list!
On the next morning we were picked up by a pre-arranged driver (same as the last one) who drove us back to the Florence train station for our trip to Venice. This time there were no worries about first come first serve since we had reserved seats. This trip took about 3 hours. The ride was fine but not extremely scenic. Upon arrival were met by a pre-arranged escort who guided us to a scheduled water taxi to our hotel, Hotel L’Orologio.
Day 9: After check in, we starting exploring similar to when in Florence. Our hotel was
right on the Grand Canal minutes from the Rialto Bridge and St Mark’s Square. Our room
had canal view (well worth the price). We loved Venice walking around the narrow
passages over endless canals. Venice should be on everybody’s list! The dialect is quite
different in Venice than in other parts of Italy. So as soon as I thought I was catching on
with the language then came Venice!
After some great exploration and yes, many pictures, we went back
to the hotel, washed up, and had dinner at San Sivestro’s. Thumbs up! Great ambience,
service, food, and yup, wine! It’s a great idea to make reservations well in advance as I
did.
Day 10: Another big breakfast buffet and then off on a walking tour of St. Mark’s square, Doge’s Palace, and the Basillica. I was so intrigued by the tour and our tour guide Monica that I now must get the “History of Venice” book to learn even more! After the tour, more exploring by foot, and then dinner at Oficina Ormesini where I had to try the baccala (salted cod) and their sardines and so happy I did.
Day 11: By now I expect the breakfast buffet, and then of course more exploring. We walked to many of the different regions of Venice. I found out that they have sections with parks and trees. Like every area we stayed, there were plenty of caf’s, bars, trattorias, osterias, shops, gelato, bakeries, and more. Had dinner at Osteria Sora Al Ponte where I finally had my Tiramisu.
Summary: As mentioned, Venice is a must see. The weather throughout was mostly
cloudy with brief exposure to some sun throughout the stay. While in Venice you must
have Fish. It is what they specialize in and you will not be disappointed. Now that we
explored Venice I think I have a 3-way tie for which place was my favorite. Don’t get me
wrong, Florence is absolutely beautiful and comes in at a very, very close 2nd.
Day 12: Early pickup (7:30am) to the airport. However, we still managed to fit the breakfast buffet in (it started at 7:00am). Very long flight to Atlanta (10 hours). However, this didn’t seem as bad as on the way to Milan from NY. I assume because I didn’t really need to sleep although the time change would definitely catch up to us the next day. Then a 2.5 hour flight to Boston.
Final summary: would do it all over again. Leaving Venice was not an issue at all. Scenery, sights, hotels, people, food, beer, and wine were outstanding! Consistent fresh bread at every restaurant. Extra Virgin Olive Oil on top of everything! Gelato, deserts, pastries, sauces, fish, all out of this world.
I know this was a long summary but I feel like I am only touching the tip of the iceberg here. I just wanted to share some detail in case it helps anybody or causes some inquiries of further information. Like all of you did, I’m happy to share and again we are extremely grateful for all of your input which helped put all of this together. Wish we were still there but for now, off to planning the next trip(s).
Please excuse any type errors.
Thanks again, W
Oct 22nd, 2024 | 11:23 PM
#4
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 30,683
Likes: 4
Thanks for the visit report. Good idea to take a car service on the first day. Dialect, tell me about it. Not just a Venice thing. Italian as one language, by statute, only has existed for 150 years. Plus the country also has German, Greek and Albanian in it.
Oct 23rd, 2024 | 04:12 AM
#5
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 0
Some dialects are so different from standard Italian that you need subtitles. By now only the elderly who didn't have much schooling speak only their local dialect. However even standard Italian is spoken with varying pronunciations.
When I first arrived in Italy, we had a housekeeper whose knowledge of standard Italian was shaky. Fairly often when I asked her what something was called, she would reply, "I don't know what it's called in Italian."
She tried her best for my sake, but I unknowingly picked up a lot of dialectical words and mistakenly used them in conversation. It doesn't give a good impression to an Italian speaker to mix standard and dialectical Italian, unless you're trying for humour.
Many people speak dialect with close friends and relatives, but switch to Italian with people they don't have a close relationship with. I noticed this also in the Netherlands. There were several people in my office from the same village. They all spoke perfect Dutch in the office, but at lunchtime they sat together and spoke the dialect of their village.
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Oct 23rd, 2024 | 07:32 AM
#8
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 8,565
Likes: 0
Thanks for the great trip report, glad you had such a good time. I had a delicious meal at Trattoria La Casalinga this time last year, and I am glad to hear that the Villa Bordoni is still a nice place to stay. We stayed there in 2008 and it is high time for a repeat!
Oct 23rd, 2024 | 09:49 AM
#9
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 31,158
Likes: 0
Wonderful, WarrenWST! I applaud taking tours to the famous sites as you did...one gets lots of info, and doesn't have to schlep for tickets. From Venice to D.C. area, we had to leave the airport at 7:30...has that changed? Or there more international flights than when we traveled. Super TR!
Oct 24th, 2024 | 09:40 AM
#13
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 0
Many restaurants throughout the trip only offered two different times ranging typically at either 7:30 or 9:30pm
Oct 25th, 2024 | 10:00 AM
#15
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 272
Likes: 0
Regarding the return flight from Venice, we flew to Atlanta (10 hours) and then to Boston (2.5 hours). Our flight was at 11:05 am. We were picked up at our hotel in Venice at 7:30am which gave us time to enjoy the breakfast buffet at 7am. We were all checked in and waiting at the terminal by 9:30am. There were no issues leaving from Venice.
Oct 29th, 2024 | 08:20 AM
#19
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,117
Likes: 0
Your day 8 sounds great! On our first ever trip to Europe we stayed just outside of Panzano and fell totally in love with Tuscany. That was a lot of walking that you did that day. We walked around some but I wish we would have done more. What a great trip you had. We went back to Tuscany twice and love it even more.
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