The end of the Vietnamese world! In fact, the village of Lung Cu, 24 km north of Dong Van, is the northernest point of the country). Extremely wild area of limestone peaks, black rock needles (the locals call them the “Stone Forests”, deep canyons, breathtaking scenery and...the Black H’mong. Dressed in black, wearing a black beret, they are as invisible as their houses among the black rocks...with no visible trail leading to them. It is through Dong Van that the first h’mong emigrated from the Chinese province of a Guizhou to Vietnam 300 years ago, hundred families of the Lu and Giang lineages. The road between Dong Van and Meo Vac is famous for being the most spectacular in Vietnam, and rightly so.



ATTENTION: the region is still under military control. To go inside, you need your passport and a permit ($10 per person). Do not think that you can avoid the permit, there are no controls on the road, but you must present it at the hotels. The permit can now be bought at the police station in Dong Van upon arrival (or Méo Vac if you arrive from Cao Bang or Babe Lake). 10$ per person BUT if you plan to sleep between Ha Giang and Dong Van, for example in a homestay near Quang Ba, you have to buy the permit in Ha Giang.



TO GO TO HA GIANG (305 km from Hanoi)

- By car : good road direction Vinh Yen, Vietri (Route No. 2), but without much interest, going through the delta and the valley of the Red River and then through hills.

- By night bus: comfortable sleepers leaving from My Dinh Station around 20:30, arriving HG around 5:30. The return Ha Giang-Hanoi leaves at the same time.

- From Cao Bang: Turn left after the bridge, Nguyen Binh (Road No. 34). The road is in very bad condition. It can be done in one day, but I recommend 2 days, with overnight in Bao Lac.

- From Lao Cai: there is a public bus leaving Lao Cai at 6 AM, which requires to spend one night in Lao Cai or take an early taxi in Sapa.

- From Bac Ha : Magnificent northern road starting in Lung Phin north of Bac Ha – road on the right after the market) and going through Xin Man and Hoang Su Phi.

HA GIANG


Pleasant regional capital alongside the Lo River. The best hotel is the deluxe bungalow homestay ,;,,: of Mr. Win’s homestay,just before Ha Giang.

HA GIANG-DONG VAN-MEO VAC-HA GIANG (333 km)

Starting from Ha Giang, a superb mountain road, No. 4C, climbs to Dong Van, 158 km away. Breathtaking views of the entire region, especially on top of the Quan Ba – “Gate of Paradise”. Down the first pass after Quang Ba, an interesting site: the h’mong weaver village of Lung Tam, where one can observe the traditionalart of spinning and weaving hemp. 15 km before Dong Van, at the intersection of the main road and a small one with a sign “Lung Cu”, going north, an extremely interesting site:

** The Palace of Vuong Chin Duc, King of the H’mongs (nha ho Vuong)

A great friend of the French, Chin Duc, built on a small mound a palace designed like a Chinese yamen: 2-storey wooden buildings opening on 4 inner courtyards. At the 2 corners facing the road, a small stone dungeon. Between his large family, his servants, and the garrison, over 100 people lived inside. Family tombs in front of the “Palace”. One does not expect such a site in such a remote area. Entrance fee 5000 D.

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** The village of Lung Cu

On the left just before the intersection going down to the village of Sa Phin, a road climbs on 24 km to the village de Lung Cu. It is the northernest point of Vietnam. The road allows the understanding the extraordinary geological phenomenon of the Dong Van Geologic Park : imagine being on « normal » mountains and you see on your right an enormous massif of karstic peaks, « planted » there like a “Halong Bay in the Mountains”. The panorama is breathtaking !

In Lung Cu, a belvedere (you can either climb 450 steps or reach a parking lot near the summit) offers a huge panorama of the entire region including China. On the left of the Belvedere, you can see a Balck Lolo village with a café owned by a Japanese, and a small homestay.

DONG VAN


Small picturesque village dominated by 2 lime peaks. It is populated by Black H’mong people. On top of the highest one, the French fort of Pu Lo, built in 1889 and evacuated in 1945. To climb on top, from which the panorama is quite spectacular, go through the market, turn right on the road, then first left on a trail that goes behind and up the peak (one hour easy walk round-trip).


WHERE TO SLEEP AND EAT

I recommend the 3 stars Hoang Ngoc Hotel, most rooms with a balcony. The 2-stars Khai Hoan and the Thien Hien are also good and less expensive (no restaurant). Good restaurant adjacent to the Hoang ngoc, and another good oner, the Green Park, at the bottom of the street leading to the market.

Dong Van is, above all, the gate to what is considered as the most beautiful road in Vietnam, which goes from Dong Van to Meo Vac through the Ma Pi Leng Pass. FABULOUS!!!! On the very steep slopes, here and there, barely visible h’mong houses of black rock; no trail seems to lead there. Stop on the top of the pass to admire the vertiginous canyon of the Ngo Qué River.

If you start early from Dong Van, turn left before Méo Vac. The road goes inside the canyon and leads to the villages of San Chay and Sam Pun, at the Chinese border; fantastic panoramas, the entire area is really Nature at its wildest, an impressive “End of the World”.

Meo Vac has an interesting main market. In town, the beautiful Auberge de Meo Vac is exceptional for the region because it is in a ancient h’mong noble house with 80-cm thick pisé walls; regular rooms and a small dormitory. They organize an excellent one-day trekking.

For reservation to go on a organized tour with driver and English-speaking guide, open
https://orientalbridgetravel.com/vie...h-4-6-days.htm