I am contemplating a 3 night visit at the end of September. I will already be very close to the city and am thinking of re-visiting because Venice has always been one of my favorite European cities. My first visits were over 50 years ago when European tourism and things were completely different. My next visit was decades later over New Year's perhaps 15 years ago, and my most recent visit was for a week perhaps 12 years ago (it was Italy's coldest May in 200 years and there was aqua alta while we were there).

Those last two visits we loved the city and managed to avoid the tourist hordes. In fact we thought about perhaps returning for perhaps a month-long rental in late winter or early spring. It didn't happen.

If I visit now my time would be primarily walking around the lesser known neighborhoods (we loved the more remote squares where local kids were playing soccer while their parents sat on benches and visited) just to soak up the ambience. And perhaps taking the vaporetto out to one of the further and less popular islands (not Murano). I am thinking of looking for lodging in Cannaregio or another locale where there are fewer tourists crowding the streets and vaporetti. Plus, for a short visit this would put me closer to the train station and would minimize the luggage dragging. And, I might look for an apartment so I could just get some supplies at a grocery store (I think I may recall a store somewhere on that northern shore area in Cannaregio) or deli and not have to contend with restaurant crowds.

If you have been to Venice fairly recently, say post-Covid, what are your thoughts? Have things changed so much in the past dozen years that even a strategy like I am proposing will end up in my being disappointed and feeling like I am immersed in a giant Disneyland tourist trap?

Thanks.

I have visited Venice twice, first in 2015 and again in 2022. My preferred hotel is in Cannaregio. First trip was with my parents and the second was solo. In August. After Covid. (Short sentences for emphasis).

Was it insane? Yes. It was. But I also planned around it to be.

While I did do the major attractions the first time around, we had been rushed due to a flight problem and had to skip some things. The second time around, I did re-do some things but with modifications. For instance, first time around we did the self-tour of Doge's Palace and second time I did both the self-tour and Secret Itineraries.

Both times, to manage being around hordes of tourists, I pre-booked everything I could, especially around San Marco. I understand that might not be your focus this time around. But in case it is, book in advance. By doing this, I managed to give myself breathers. I did Basilica San Marco when it first opened - hardly a soul there and booked the museum, which was my first time seeing - again, no one there. After, as the day trippers were arriving, I was in the Correr Museum where it was not crowded and was pleasant. I decided to book a noon visit for the Campanile (which I don't intend to do again) which left me enough time for Secret Itinerates.

It was a lot. But I was not in a rushed panic nor was I having to stand in line. I am horribly inpatient. While it was busy and crowded, having the pre-books allowed me to relax and not get over stimulated by the crowds.

I also pre=booked Galleria Accademia (which had to get missed first time around) for another day - pre-booking was not necessary - it was very quiet in there and was able to walk around Dorsoduro without hardly anyone there. My first day was getting over jet lag in Burano and Murrano. It was busy, but not overrun. I also visited San Georgia di Maggiore - with maybe 4 other people!

Cannaregio can be busy in certain spots - especially around Piazzale Roma and Santa Lucia, but otherwise can be quiet. Rialto is a madhouse (which, expected).

I never finished my trip report but did cover my time in Venice from 2022 - you can read it here: Adriatic Madness: 4 weeks Venice to Sarajevo - Solo! It also describes my itinerary in Croatia which I know you expressed interest in, so you may find that a bit helpful for the future.

Yes. Stay out or limit San Marco until they leave. Sometimes even just getting over one street will do the trick.

Our hotel was facing the Grand Canal, which is by definition very busy and touristy; we would sit outside in the morning having breakfast and watch the cruise folk trek by following their guide and on that same spot with a G & T watch them trudge back to the ship in the afternoon. (What a horrible way to visit this gorgeous city!)

As Travel Nerd mentioned, make reservations at the places you have chosen. Otherwise, you'll find less crowded places if you seek them out.

Find a lovely spot to enjoy the sunset with a glass of wine! I envy you!

My last visit was almost a decade ago in Early October and even back then parts of the city were an absolute mob scene. But there were lots of quiet streets/museums/neighborhoods. But after about 5 PM all the day trippers and cruisers disappeared and even St Marks was lovely and quiet.

We were in Venice about a week ago and yes, there were hordes of tourists clogging the major sites (S. Marco, Rialto, Piazzale Roma, on vaporettos) but in the more residential parts of Canaregio where we strolled it was less thronged. You might also look in Dorsoduro

In general early morning late evening its closer to a ghost town than over crowded. If you avoid the main areas during the day you're fine IMHO.

OTOH the area around the train station will be busy. People coming and going.

Plenty of grocery stores in the city. Don't worry about that.

When I was last there, Burano was just as crowded as Murano. Maybe even more so, because the crowds in Murano were mostly in the shops rather than on the streets.

Torcello was much less crowded. There are also many other less well-known islands, but I don't know how easy they are to reach. Lido is also an island, which should be pretty deserted in October.

Very helpful tips from all of you! I think I'm going to go ahead and start looking at lodging options to see if I can figure all of this out.

Travel_Nerd I finally had the time to sit down to read your great trip report. Too bad you never had a chance to finish it!!! I had done some reading about Piran and had been tempted to add it in as a stop. Then I read your assessment: "I found myself bored to tears in Piran (absolutely lovely) after the first four hours!"

Ok... don't get me wrong! It is a fantastic little town. I had already done everything I set out to do in the first half day of my first full day - well, all was left for me to do was drink vino while looking out at the water. My ADHD only lets me sit still for so long. And going there directly after Venice and all of the stimulation of it, my poor brain could not comprehend, "it is ok to sit still right now and breathe!" When I return again (and do plan to), I will plan on having a book to read or something. With that said, it is truly very lovely and I did, well, relax.

Edited: I am actually planning on finishing it, will probably post links to my blog when it is done. I have notes from each day - but it is just a lot. My muse sometimes takes over when I write and since I rarely get to do any kind of creative writing, it sort of runs away and then I get overwhelmed!

Great advice from all above, Julie. Maybe emphasize Castello, Cannaregio, Dorsodouro, Giudecca and Torcello.
But don't ignore S.Polo, Burano (take the final vaporetto back) and St. Marks (sunrise).
Night can be very atmospheric: the latter can be the most magical time for a gondola ride.

Tante belle cose
I am done. the unique city
PS you might find viewing the doc 'The Venice Syndrome' to be interesting.

Travel_Nerd, I was also in Venice August 2022! I never pre-book the Accademia, but tend to visit late-afternoon when it's been very quiet.

These days I go to Venice for Biennale, so that's my focus, and I like to stay out by Arsenale, though of course I traipse all over the city for collateral exhibitions and old favorites. Certain parts of Venice are super-clogged with people any time of year, but I actually find July/August to be quieter in the big tourist cities of Italy. Returning this October and worried that things will actually be more crowded that what I've grown accustomed to. Oh well.

For something entirely different and definitely away from the crowds, visit the island of Sant'Erasmo, Venice's "Garden Island." We took a small group tour booked by some Italian friends. Easy/level biking, wine tasting at the (only) winery, lunch, and a very interesting tour and honey tasting with a beekeeper... The island is mostly agricultural, but there is a small commercial area and a couple of sandy beaches. We made an early start, and I think the tour lasted 5 hours though I could have easily spent more time there. Weather was perfect (late October).

We have visited Venice a heap of times. Something that works for us is to pick a thread, a theme. One visit it was works by the Tiepolo boys, father, son, grandson. Another was work by Carlo Scarpa, Venice’s best known modern architect. Sculpture by Canova drew us all over Venice and to Possagno, where he had his studio.

venicekayak.com was fun on another trip.

If you click on my user name, you would find trip reports. We like staying in the area around Campo San Barnaba.

If possible, don't miss the Scuola Grande di Santa Maria della Carità...convenient to the Campo Santa Margherita.

Completely unexpected: one of our old rock band's crew became owner of a major staging company. He has for years now annually played a big role in the production of Leely's Biennale.
He used to be our soundman during the seventies. His then-partner light tech for our same band also rose through the ranks and eventually became the producer for Sarah McLachlan's 'Lilith Fair' tours.
From B-league bars to the Big Time.

I am done. (good-editors)

Wow! You are offering me tons of different ideas if want to do more than just wandering and perhaps visiting one of the typical tourist biggies. I am looking into all of them!

Even though I said I wasn't interested in doing the typical tourist sites, I will admit that I can't remember the last time I saw St. Mark's, and photos of the mosaic-covered interiors are nudging me towards re-visiting. (Ravenna is another favorite of mine due to all of the glorious mosaics.)

If you want to discover the less frequented bits of Venice, and avoid the Rialto/San Marco/ Doges Palace/Academia drag, take a look at the book Secret Venice by Jonglez.
It details a host of little details, things like why there is a single white stone in the path from canal to San Pietro in Castello, or the brass survey marker in the Piazza, marking the centre line of the Basilica. The bar on the canal edge in front of the hospital, was once a mortuary. A host of details that can draw you all over Venice, in a way making an intimate friend of Venice.

The hard copy is good, the soft copy is really rubbish.

Another suggestion - a paper map of Venice is a really useful thing. Google maps in Venice are not the best.

​​​​​​​I've noticed that. Maybe because they can't drive their cam cars through the streets.

Pedestrian zones they use a backpack sort of setup. Put google maps backpack into google and some photos will pop up.

The problem in Venice is a combination of the narrow streets and I guess the routing programming getting confused.

The thing to do is use it for a general direction and use some common sense. Don't input an actual address. Put in a major landmark. If it tells you to walk across the canal ignore it -)

We once took a tour of the lagoon by boat, from Chioggia. We cruised slowly past Sant'Erasmo; It seemed very attractive. I don't think it's accessible by vaporetto.

Chioggia is accessible by vaporetto. It's a pleasant town that was once a flourishing port. Like Venice, has canals, calli, and even acqua alta...