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London and Dublin Jan 2024

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London and Dublin Jan 2024

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Old Jan 30th, 2024 | 10:37 PM
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London and Dublin Jan 2024

Yes, it's not optimal timing climatically but it was what worked for DH's schedule. Out first European jaunt since the pandemic, also the first with DH on a walker. Here's a somewhat abbreviated TR:

Flights: Sprung points for seats in United's Premier Plus cabin - absolutely well worth it. Remember back when there was economy, business, and first? Then in the 1990's the airline bean counters realized that biz travelers, bread and butter to their revenue streams, could often get approval for business but not first class tickets so they merged biz and first into variously branded products all coded as business class. This Premium Plus (other branding on other carriers) is something like a return to business class. Bigger seats with more recline and nifty footrests that actually allow for some sleep, bigger TV screens, better food served on china, upgraded pillow and blanket and amenity kit with essentials like eye mask and earplugs, nice over the ear headphones. Was perfect for us. The much vaunted lie flat seats in the front would not have worked for DH who would not be able to get into the (I think coffin like) seating. On a bulkhead aisle he was perfectly situated - toilet just a few steps away, a little closet across the aisle to store his collapsible walker. inflight service was very good, friendly and efficient without being fawning. I actually got 5 or so hours of sleep on the 8 hour flight from Houston to London - better than I've done in the lie flat but cramped seating up front. From London we flew from Gatwick to Dublin on Aer Lingus, pretty smooth all the way including wheelchair at the airport. Return from Dublin on UA required double connection - EWR and IAH - which got snarled by a lengthy mechanical delay in EWR. Moan: Can't believe that at its huge hub at EWR United has only one customer service desk where gate agents directed everyone, a schlep away from our gate. Nice thing about departing from Dublin is clearing US immigration at DUB so on arrival in US it's like a domestic flight, no need to stand in immigration lines.

Hotels London: Montague on the Gardens, one of the Red Carnation properties, was superb for the most part. Literally around the corner from the British Museum. Accessible room was available only for our first three nights, then we had to move to a standard room. Accessible room was terrific. Standard room was fine for normally abled but a little difficult to maneuver for DH. Daily breakfast was extensive and quite good. As a perk of booking through Costco travel we also received a bottle of nice red wine on arrival, an afternoon cream tea (oh, those scones!) and a table d'hote dinner for two. Quite lovely. We ordered in room service one evening and had possibly the best cheeseburger ever.

Dublin: Dylan Hotel was a smashing success. Housed in a historic building that once served as a residence for nurses in training, the renovation is swimmingly well done. The accessible room was perfect. Breakfast in the restaurant was just lip smackingly good, and we ate at the bar a couple nights enjoying best carrot soup ever among other delectable plates. Service from every member of staff was exquisite. I had rented a rollator for DH and the concierge emailed to let me know it had been delivered prior to our arrival. Located in the somewhat bougie but close in Ballsbridge area, easy to get a taxi using the Freenow app which we also used in London. Would absolutely recommend and stay there again.

Tourist stuff: London: British Museum is, of course, always a delight, as was National Portrait Gallery. Stonehenge was intriguing, and very accommodating (as is most of London) for DH with free wheelchair available. Will admit it was a slog pushing that his substantial avoirdupois in the effing wheelchair across soggy grass up the hill, but that's part of the better or worse thing, innit? Of course we had to make a stop by Marks & Sparks and Boots.

Dublin: Trinity College is mandatory. The legendary Long Hall library is in the process of major work, with all books being removed - after 300 years! - individually cleaned and digitized. There is in the Long Hall an amazing temporary exhibition of a huge internally lit globe titled Gaia which is composed of photos taken from outer space, and a new building just opened to house the Book of Kells along with background/interpretive displays . Again, staff were incredibly accommodating for DH with his impaired mobility. True to my Irish peasant roots, I insisted on introducing DH to some boxty, and the fare at Gallagher's Boxty in Temple Bar was delectable, significant upscaling of the meager spud grub. EPIC, the Irish emigration museum, is phenomenally well done. It details the incredibly vast impact of Irish emigrés across the globe through a series of engaging interactive thematic exhibitions. We spent hours there. It's housed in a great example of adaptive reuse in a Custom House quay building. There are several eateries in the building providing options for a nice lunch break. On my last Dublin visit years ago we visited the actual Guinness Brewery and Jameson distillery, but that's been supplanted by the Guinness Storehouse which is a sort of Disneyfied exhibition on the history and production of the legendary beverage. The 360 view from the seventh floor Gravity Bar is quite astounding. We opted out of the Jameson's tour as we learned it had also been Disneyfied and instead went for a visit to an actual distillery at the Teeling distillery which was quite nice, with a guided tour relating the history of the oldest distillery in Ireland which has been reinvigorated by a new generation of owners - concluding, of course, with a sampling of their products. Our visit to St Patrick's cathedral included an informative tour by a volunteer docent.

Logistics: One of the nice things about booking through Costco Travel - in addition to perks at the hotels - is the inclusion of airport transfers on arrival and departure. We were smoothly transported in very comfortable vehicles at every location. We booked our flights separately (to take advantage of elite status with UA) and uploaded the itinerary so Costco could arrange the transfers. The Costco agents were just great to work with in getting everything arranged, from accessible accommodation to airport transfers. Booking with them offers fewer hotel options then some mega sites but they offer a very well curated selection, and the extra executive perks are quite nice. I've used them in the past for good car rental rates, would definitely recommend and use them again to plan a trip.

Last edited by Seamus; Jan 30th, 2024 at 10:43 PM.
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Old Jan 31st, 2024 | 06:35 AM
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Very nice trip report. I just returned from a trip that included 6 days in London last month and I will be traveling to Ireland that includes 4 days in Dublin in September. The menu at Gallagher's Boxty looks really good and I'm bookmarking it to make reservations.

Also, good info about Costco Travel - I always use them to book car rentals but haven't really considered them for other things. I'll have to look into them for future trips.
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Old Jan 31st, 2024 | 07:11 AM
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Old Jan 31st, 2024 | 01:03 PM
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Nice trip report. Sounds like you managed the mobility issues really well. Haven't stayed at the Montague on the Gardens in close to 20 years, good to know their quality still holds.

For years I had both Costco and Sam's memberships but let Costco lapse because it is more convenient to where I live -- the one thing I do miss is Costco's terrific travel services.
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Old Jan 31st, 2024 | 01:12 PM
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So much good and helpful info. Thank you for taking time to post a great TR. Glad it went so well for you.
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Old Jan 31st, 2024 | 04:32 PM
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Awww Seamus, so glad I wandered over here. Great trip report, I was hoping you would write one. It sounds like you did quite well, even with your DH's issues. I hope it gave him lots of confidence to take other trips. I also hope your back didn't hurt too bad. (wheelchair pushing is not easy).

I think the EPIC emigration museum was the highlight of my trip to Dublin a few years ago. It was so well done. We had asked the taxi driver where we should go in Dublin and he said it was not to be missed.

I will be heading back to London in May (my 4th trip) and have never been to the British Museum so will be remedying that then. I understand it's overwhelming, museums tire me quickly, so hoping to see some highlights but not spend the day there. One of my travel companions wants to read everything, and after a while I'm just ove it. Did you eat there?? I have been to the Portrait Gallery twice and want to take my friends to it this trip, as it is one of my favorites.

My daughter has used Costco Travel for trips to Costa Rica and Mexico and is a fan. I have only rented cars, which at the time was the cheapest price. I joined Costco for the rental car deals, but of course I now spend a lot of money on other things there.

I would like to know more about your carrot soup. Did it have a lot of spices in it?? I have the funniest story of my dad being in the hospital and threatening to sign himself out AMA because they served him carrot soup. It was hospital food though, your carrot soup probably was a bit better. haha.
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Old Jan 31st, 2024 | 05:10 PM
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barbm: If you are in London and plan on visiting the Br. Museum -- take a look that this. It is a blockbuster exhibition starting tomorrow (I've read the rave pre-opening reviews in three London papers) and may sell out.

https://www.britishmuseum.org/exhibi...ife-roman-army
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Old Jan 31st, 2024 | 06:03 PM
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^^^ “There is in the Long Hall an amazing temporary exhibition of a huge internally lit globe titled Gaia which is composed of photos taken from outer space…”^^^

This sounded so intriguing, I had to look it up:
https://www.visittrinity.ie/book-of-kells/gaia/

Thanks for a wonderful report!
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Old Feb 7th, 2024 | 05:49 AM
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This report resonated with me. While my husband still walks, he has a very bad knee, arthritis, etc. so limits his walking. When we travel I generally take long walks by myself, he will walk a few blocks to nearby destinations, and when we go farther together we take taxis, trams, etc. That generally works for both of us. In planning trips all of that is a consideration.

I like the idea of London and Dublin in the winter months. We stayed at the Montague over 10 years ago and really liked it. I remember they have a lovely bar area with a piano player in the evening. I was in Dublin for only a couple of days years ago.
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Old Feb 7th, 2024 | 01:48 PM
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Great report of a well-planned trip!
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Old Feb 7th, 2024 | 05:54 PM
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jodhul -your husband might benefit from having a rollator (basically a four wheel walker with a seat) to use when visiting museums, etc.as it provides ready access to a seat. In London we booked through Mobility Hire UK and in Dublin we used Mobility Equipment Hire Direct. Both delivered to the hotel and picked it up after our departure. The price in London was nearly double that in Dublin but was better than schlepping his rollator on our flights. DH was able to use it to sit about anywhere as needed, including in some restaurants where the seating was not comfortable for him.
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Old Feb 9th, 2024 | 07:05 AM
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Fun report. Bless you for pushing wheelchair through soggy grass.

Good to know about United Premier Plus.
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Old Oct 15th, 2024 | 07:40 PM
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Thank you for a great report once again! You have helped us here with many trips for many years. We are planning a last minute trip to Ireland right now and this will help us. I posted a question and Fodorites are wonderful! I admire you!
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Old Oct 16th, 2024 | 07:57 AM
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Thanks for this wonderfully helpful TR, Seamus. Why my Irish Rhody and I never got there is strange. Glad your DH was able to get around (and your muscles got a workout!). Great job! Again, thanks.
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Old Oct 24th, 2024 | 09:14 AM
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Curious where you stayed in Dublin?
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