Hello,
We will be in Greece from May 12 to 29, and I have planned what I know will be a wonderful vacation with the help of people on this forum. I am looking for restaurant recommendations for the following locations: Santorini, Naxos, Nafplio, and Athens. We prefer restaurants/tavernas that locals would visit; we don't want restaurants that cater only to tourists. We certainly prefer lower priced places, for example maybe $50 per couple including a few drinks. We don't mind an occasional splurge. I realize Santorini's restaurants will be more expensive. We love everything especially lamb, seafood, and Greek salads!

We plan on renting a car for a day while in Naxos to see the island. Do you think it's necessary to reserve a car in advance? Or wait until we arrive on Naxos? As I am writing this, I wonder if we should reserve the car in advance in case there is a rental car shortage because of the pandemic as was the case last year.

We also want to visit Akrotiri while we are on Santorini. What is the best way to do this? Should we rent a car for the day? Go with a tour group? Do buses run frequently? We are staying in Firostefani. If we rent a car, would it be difficult/stressful driving out of Firostefani, such as lots of one-way streets, narrow lanes, etc.

Thanks in advance for all your help!
Karen

OK Karen it's late so I won't run on ...
NAXOS in GENERAL -- in ordinary tavernas its really hard to spend more than €16-20 per person including 1/2 liter of wine each
for the New Cuisine (Nostimon/Petrino) it's more but they r really special
NAXOS -- PORT TOWN
• To Kastro - Mainly for view, looking down over town, port, sea. Best for traditional dishes, stifado etc
• Nostimon Hellas - Greek w modern twist.. now "the" restaurant in town; make resrvations .. worth it
• The Good Heart - in the row by harbor; old school, traditional, my 1st Naxos dinner ('99)& I still go back
• The Waffle House - where everybody goes for ice cream cones after dinner
• FLamingo Club - for greek music/dance after dinner: dining is upstairs On promenade - music area entry is via lane in back
NAXOS -- Ag. Giorgios Beach
• Nikos Taverna - tables on sand, under stars -- best dishes are "low(heat) & slow" - baked chicken & lamb
NAXOS - Plaka Beach (take taxi or bus; bus will let u off if u tell driver name of restaurant
• Petrino - new cuisine Naxian ... all local produce AND meats - lovely setting by sea
• NIko & Maria's Taverna - the thrill here is tables right by the water's edge (take yr shoes off, be Shirley Valentine)

SANTORINI in General - for most of us, it's about the view. Others may list haute cuisine places in OIA @ €150 each, I mainly want a nice table, uncrowded, sunset view, good solid Greek fare... I only have a few:
FIROSTEPHANI --
• Hotel Remvi/Cafe Remvi - just up the street from Sunset: https://santorinidave.com/santorini-restaurant-remvi
• Aktaion Taverna -- little place right by rimspath, a few tables right next to wall & view... oldest Taverna in Santorini (2022 marks 100th yr!) .. in 2019, exhausted after 20 hr journey fromPhila to Santorini, I plunked down @ 7pm and had a marvelous mushroom souffle and a Mythos & was re-born. Good to get there by 7pm, or stop by & see if u can reserve a "wall table". Here is their "homemade" website (looks like a loving 4th grade art project) https://www.aktaionsantorini.com -- here's dave's good version - https://santorinidave.com/santorini-restaurant-aktaion
... for other Santorini choices, I think this guy is reliable, & he has good pix & descripts -https://santorinidave.com/best-restaurants-santorini

SANTORINI - WINE-TASTINGS
- the SantoriniDave website shows u all the choices for winery visits, but my friend & co-contributor on 3 forums, "STanbr", says the best choice actually is the Koutsoyannopoulos Wine Museum. GIves u history and info of all the island wines & you sample from many diff ones.. no pressure to buy. U can hav e hotel make u a reservation at a time when there are not big groups v isiting.

... more anon...

Travelerjan, thank you so much! This is very helpful. And, no, we are not interested in haute cuisine places in OIA at 150 euros each And thanks for the links/reminder about SantoriniDave. I was on his website awhile ago so it's good to know that he is reliable.

I recommend a rental car for Santorini as well as for Naxos. Tony's in Firostefani is reliable and honest. Buses are cheap but you'll waste a lot of time waiting. Bus schedules can be found on the KTEL Santorini website. Taxis are expensive. Driving is not difficult there, just use your common sense and be aware of your surroundings. Go to Akrotiri first thing in the morning when they open at 08:30 to avoid all the bus tour crowds. You'll practically have the place to yourself. Guides are available at the entrance if you decide to hire one. Be sure to have lunch at one of the fish tavernas below Oia in Amoudi Bay. Katina's is my fave. Reserve an outside table for dinner at Santorini Mou Taverna in Oia. The owner and friends play music and sing and sometimes there is spontaneous Greek dancing. Not all restaurants in Oia are expensive. Along with Santorini Mou try the family restaurant at the Anemomilos Hotel. For fine dining try Metaxi Mas in Exo Gonia, just below the village of Pyrgos. It's considered by legions of foodies to be the best restaurant on the island. Do a wine tasting at Venetsanos Winery in Megalochori, on the cliff overlooking the caldera at sunset. Flights of their wines paired with snacks are on offer and the view is spectacular. Be sure to bring an International Driving Permit with you. You'll find them at your local auto club office, no test or membership required.

Karen, Brotherlee's advice is Gold, particularly on Oia, where he is familiar with almost every single accommodation & restaurant. Also expert re top dining elsewhere, and also services generally, such as rentals, ticket agencies, guides etc. He's been visiting Santorini almost every year for over 35 years.

NAFPLIO DINING
- THese need checking because Covid has had such an effect & I was last there in 2019. General advice: there are a number of enjoyable tavernas on the small lanes of Othonos & Olgas, between the Town Square and the seafront.MAP: https://www.nafplio-tour.gr/en/map In late may, small tour-groups (12-15) start to show up for dining... nice people, polite brits, french or German ... but 1 group could fill up a lot of table space at a taverna. In early June, we lingered too long at a seafront cafe enthralled by sunset, & then found seating full. So, maybe stop by a taverna & reserve for a specific time, before you do sunsetting. Here's a reliable list from "Visit Nafplio" http://www.visitnafplio.com/really-u...n-nafplio.html (Btw, this website, noncommercial, reflects the long experience of an expat Scandinavian who loves & knows more about Nafplio than even people born there; I admired the site, met her 12 years ago & have kept up w her discoveries there & in Norway ever since).
• Aiolos (Othonos) - till remember first meal, in 1999.. slow-baked veal stew w musthrooms... they also had barreled Rose wine, rare,.
• Omorfo (Olgas) - another fine traditional place. Again, "low & slow" entrees are the best - for grilled chop/ fish, find place that specializes.
• Agnanti - A treat of sunset PLUS DInner... IF it's still open, post-covid. Unusual setting, at sea level at "the point", glass enclosed, a bit higher € - https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaura...loponnese.html ,,, ask yr hotel - also, can walk by & check it out on your walk around the point to Arvanita "town beach"
NAFPLIO - OTHER
•Gelati - Antica Gelateria di Roma was the 1st (started by an Italian who married a local girl but missed his treats)now also Gelarto and Retro Latteria
• A little Night Music - certain tavernas & bars have musicians but nights vary, your hotel will know.

ATHENS DINING
Hard task Old faves have changed; plus, lately my Athenian friend Thalia takes me to terrific places I don't know how to get to, Plus a #1 roof-place that's impossible to get into without special "pull". But she did steer me to a perfect place for a last night for 3 seriously tired travelers. (see below)

• Athinaikon, 34 Mitropoleos St, across from Cathedral I had asked her for: traditional food, upscale but moderate €, quiet, an easy walk. This place was Just right; we enjoyed & lingered. I'll go again if I ever get back to Athens
• Mani Mani - Cretan food specialities, lots of small Mezedes. Once little-known, now in demand; reservations needed , worth it.
• Vinzantino - In what I call "restaurant square" , heart of plaka; a tree-filled center ringed by tavernas, many with huge signs, agressive MaitreD's. U may think, avoid. But this one's different; you may see long table reserved for local groups - they know value. TIP: for quiet dining, pick small tables under tree, just behind newsstand kiosk. As in islands, u can go into kitchen, look at dishes on warming table; choose what looks good. Their baked lamb w lemon sauce/roast potatoes always delivers; I go here for this on every Greece trip.

ATHENS - OTHER
Diogenes Cafe - My favorite Cafe Near You -- right by Lysikrates monument, under flowering trees, comfy basket chairs for lolling over coffee, snack or drink, reaading a book. If u r too tired to go elsewhere for dinner, move to other end to tablecloth section.
Fresko - Right around corner from Airootel Parthenon, on that promonade. This was Athens FIRST frozen-yogurt place, idea of a Kansas guy who married an Athenian girl.(I found it the 1st season, when the happy couple were only staff) Now many competitors, Fresko still the best. Try classic vanilla topped with "spoon sweets" dark cherry sauce, my alltime favorite.

Katina’s in Oia (Amoudi) is an authentic place run by locals and where many Greek tourists go. Plus it’s down by the waterfront which is beautiful. They have local Santorini specialities and fresh seafood. There are (or were) restaurants either side but we loved Katinas the best, least expensive and most authentic. Others can dine at fancy expensive restaurants, which IMO Greek food does not translate well to high end treatment, it’s at its best home cooked, rustic with local fresh ingredients. Greek cooking is but refined generally.
There are others where not many tourists venture to but they require a car to get to.

Wow!!! Thank you Brotherleelove2004, Balthy, and once again to Travelerjan. I really appreciate your detailed information. This is exactly what I was looking for. All the restaurant recommendations sound like exactly what we would love, along with the wine tastings!

Brotherleelove2004, thanks for the tip about Tony's for a rental car. It's nice to know that driving is not difficult. I prefer to rent a car because as you say, we could waste a lot of time waiting around for the bus. And we definitely plan on renting a car for a day in Naxos. So, do you think I should book these 2 car rentals before we arrive in Greece? Or is it safe to wait until we get there? I have already booked our car for our 5 nights in Nafplio. The wine tasting at Venetsanos Winery in Megalochori sounds wonderful. How would we get there? Should we do that the day we rent the car to go to Akrotiri?

Car rental depends partly on whether u can drive stick-shift... more supply of those. but given the car shortages world-wide, if you know which days y ou want a vehcile, wouldn't hurt to rent somewheat in advance. Am thinking if u y could get delivery at airport (I don't know), you'd save €25 right there in taxi or car-service farae to get to Firostephani hotel. U can inquire online from tonys

On the morning you want to see Oia EARLY (8 am?) to beat the crowds, it would be handy to have a car.

Travelerjan, we both drive a standard shift although my husband will be the one doing the driving. I do all the trip planning but I admit I am nervous about driving in a foreign country. We will have 2.5 days on Santorini so I am thinking we will rent the car for one day, which would be the day we drive to Akrotiri. We can walk from Firostefani to Oia, right? If we wanted the car for 2 days, I will have to find out if our hotel has parking. After giving this more thought, because of the world-wide car shortages, I will rent the cars in advance for Santorini and Naxos. I wonder if the truckers blockade on the Ambassador bridge between the US and Canada will make the car shortages even worse this year??? Just heard on the news that the blockade is forcing some auto makers to temporarily shut down.

NO, you cannot walk from Firostefani to Oia ... it is about 7 miles.That is a HIKE... save your hikes for Naxos. There is a bus, it takes 20 minutes... I think the first bus is 7:30. Ask your hotel. That's what they are for. YOU need to start looking at maps. this tiny URL gives you the google map. https://tinyurl.com/rclhtx4 OK, take my hand & we will walk to the bus stop. FIrst, find SUNSET HoteL Right below it (blue letters) ia FIrostefani Central Square (it's actually more like a parking lot - right by Cafe Aktaion) That's the spot in the road where Both the Northbound & Southbound bus stops always were. But they tell me that now, due to heavy traffic, only southbound is there.. The NOrthbound bus TO Oia now goes on the lower road (the "business road"). -- just below the Central square/parking lot, u should see a small cross-lane going downhill to that business road, to the bus stop. ASK your hotel the exact location; that's their job. Coming BACK From Oia, you get off at that Central Square -- however, if you are on to do other sightseeing, you can stay on the bus to the terminus in FIra Town (on google map its S and a bit E of Main Square where there a BLue P sign & the words KTEL SAntorini. just a block uphill to the VERY nice Arch. Museum, and the Cathedral on the cliffedge promenade.

As for parking, if not right by hotel, you can find one along the road or in the "central square." ... unlike Fira Town where there is NO possbile parking except in lots.

Pitogyros Traditional Grill House - Gyros, souvlaki, kebab.

Grandma's Recipes

Lucky's Souvlakis

Yogi - Gyro
Most of the places are closed these days. So better to check before going

Are these restaurants in Santorini, Naxos, Nafplio or Athens? Thanks for the reminder about checking to make sure restaurants are still open.

I've driven on a number of Greek Islands and for the most part it's rather easy, especially when you get away from main towns. Even there unless it's a large "city" it's not as bad as one would think.

There's always some anxiety when you are attempting something new, especially driving in another country, but once you do it you realize it's like driving at home except you don't know where you are going😀

Most rental agencies will have road maps and for the most part they are good.

One word of advice NEVER drive in Athens!

<<NO, you cannot walk from Firostefani to Oia ... it is about 7 miles.That is a HIKE>>

Ahh, in the good old days when we were stronger, we actually did walk between Oia and Fira, and it was wonderful to do, but it was, as Travelerjan says, a hike. There is a path that goes up and down and is very rocky at times. I remember hearing from coworkers who had just returned from Santorini and loved that walk, so I vowed to do it. I'm glad I did it, but once is plenty! And with younger legs than mine are now!



Looking back toward Oia after a short walk out of town


A little further along the path, but not by much!






Can you tell I'm already getting tired?

Progol, good memories... but I wasn't meaning to say that she could not do it, but that she should not view it as a short stroll at the start of a day of intensive sightseeing... that Oia-Santorini hike is a project unto itself, not to combine. (Frankly I think it's promoted so often because Santorini has almost no other "path" walks to offer, in contrast to other cycladic isles which have scores of them).

travelerjan, I hope you didn't misunderstand me - I do agree that it is walkable, but definitely more of a hike than how it's often described. My impressions were of an easy walk along the caldera and we were both more than a little surprised by the long, uneven walk. And yes, we did enjoy it, and it is definitely doable, as long as you're prepared. And, it was mild but overcast the day we did the walk, which made it more manageable, too.

Amoudi Bay is lovely! We were there 10 years ago and did eat there, although the meal wasn't memorable, so I'm sure we didn't eat at Katina's. But the afternoon spent down by the bay was wonderful.

This could be a fashion shoot!




View of the waterfront from the stairs

YEs, Yes Progol, I agree that the cliff walk is do-able, tho more of a hike --- but it does take up time, and one needs to rest afterward... I will bet you didn't do much more t hat day than lunch, a swim, a nap. You had more time! And KW doesn't have the time to just do a wlk. DId you read her planning thread? THey onoly have 2.5 days on Santorinii &want to see a lot, including AKRotiri. Asking about OIA she wanted to get there quick, by 8 am or so, beffore Cruise crowds, and then move on to other things.

Thank you both, Progol and Travelerjan, for the detailed description of the hike and the photos. We definitely are not in shape to do a 7-mile walk so I wouldn't attempt it even if we had the time. Unfortunately, we are not athletic 70-somethings. I have been too sedentary this winter so yesterday I started walking again because we had temps in the 50's here in Massachusetts. My walk is 1.8 miles R/T! I could probably do a 3-mile walk/easy hike but that's about it.

Crazyh, thank you for your info about driving on the islands. Don't worry, we don't plan on driving in Athens! Our plan is to return our car to the Athens airport after our visit to Nafplio and take a taxi to our hotel in Athens.

Travelerjan, I didn’t (and don’t) even suggest that KarenWoo do the walk. I was merely sharing my experiences from 10 years ago, slightly bemused at the memory of doing a walk that was much more than anticipated.