slske1

Hi everyone,

We're planning a 3 week trip to France next year and would really appreciate opinions on our proposed itinerary.

We plan to start with 5 nights in Perpignan which is a base we love for exploring Languedoc and Catalonia. Been there many times so this bit is fixed.

We then plan on 5 nights in Bordeaux, followed by 5 nights in Sarlat then 4 nights in Perigueux.

We've been to sarlat before, but have never been to Bordeaux or Perigueux. We don't like sleepy places, we like a bit of life around us, especially fabulous architecture combined with bar/cafe culture and great restaurants we can walk to.

What does everyone think about the places, order and duration we're planning? Any other ideas?

Also, we've never yet had a good meal in Sarlat so if anyone knows of a hidden gem that serves great quality French cuisine we'd appreciate the tips!!

Thanks!

Michael

Unusual to choose Périgueux, but I have no problem with that. It allows for day trips to places like Brantôme and Aubeterre, among others. Hautefort is within reach also or could be visited on the way to Périgueux from Sarlat..

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Unusual to choose Périgueux, but I have no problem with that. It allows for day trips to places like Brantôme and Aubeterre, among others. Hautefort is within reach also or could be visited on the way to Périgueux from Sarlat..

StuDudley

Your itinerary is fine.

For being such a tourist mecca - IMO Sarlat does lack having any great restaurants (1 exception).

Here are our two favorites:

Le Presidial in Sarlat 05 53 28 92 47

Sept ‘05
We had reserved for dinner at the Presidial in Sarlat, but went to town early for a beer/wine before dinner. The evening was very warm and the townspeople/tourists who remained at 7PM were strolling without great purpose through the streets of town. We stopped at a café on the main square. Sarlat was simply magical at that time of evening. As we looked around the square and down the adjacent streets, it was rather awesome to think that the town is essentially as it was hundreds of years ago: stone buildings, some with half-timbering, some times awkwardly placed, one adjacent to another; imposing “public type” buildings next to smaller ones with their inconsistent, wildly sloping rooflines often set off by slate tiles glimmering in the last day sun rays. If straw were spread in the streets and the people changed into medieval garb, I hazard to say that you’d swear you had been catapulted several hundred years back in time.

Our dinner spot was absolutely captivating! I’m just speculating, but it seemed to have been a very upscale home at one time, made of golden stone with a black/charcoal slate roof with a small round corner tower and a dome/minaret shaped belvedere-type ornament perched in the middle of the roof. Since the evening was very warm & still, the dining was set up in the beautiful garden/courtyard. All this essentially in the middle of the center of Sarlat! I can’t imagine a more enchanting setting – I was truly in heaven. We had an amuse bouche plate of treats: smoked salmon slices with caviar on toast, puff npastry savories & cooked quail eggs with a creamy sauce.

Stu had the menu a 40E

-A coquille St Jacques salad – greens topped with several horizontally-sliced (but still joined) seared scallops, dressed with a lobster vinaigrette and topped with a small slice of foie gras poele, accompanied by tomato slices.

-Pigeoneau stuffed with cepes with a Perigord sauce, with pommes dauphinoise, & grilled eggplant.

-Cabecou on a bed of greens

-Tart tatin

I had the menu of 26E (still can’t believe the prices)

-Saumon marine: a boule of diced salmon “wrapped” in a thin salmon slice, served with a vinaigrette & herbs & capers

-Fillet of Daurade in a buttery fish stock sauce

-Cabecou

-Nougat Glacee, this time accompanied by a red berry sorbet.



June ’09:

The dinner was not as elegant as it was on our two previous visits. However, the restaurant offered a very good 19E menu and another 25E menu. I’ll leave it in the “Top 6” – mainly because walking through Sarlat in the evening is remarkable, and the ambience of the restaurant is quite nice.

Sept '16 Another pleasing dinner outside - better than last time.


Le Grand Bleu in Sarlat 05 53 31 08 48

June ‘09
Michelin 1 star (Michelin 1 knife/fork – which is rare for a 1-star restaurant).

Although this was “only” a 1 knife/fork, my impression was that the restaurant was simple, but sophisticated and, minimally, the artwork displayed was truly memorable, but not in a classic ‘pleasing paintings on the wall’ sort of way. All the artwork was obviously done by one person and consisted of pieces/portions of metal signage arranged as a collage-type ‘painting’. Some of the pieces were multi-colored, as different signs tend to be, while one that I found to be particularly appealing and memorable was composed entirely of signs in red (for example the classic ‘do not enter’, sign and others that are harder to recall). The metal sign-based art drew my eye all evening and I truly believe I would have considered purchasing an all-red one if the opportunity had presented itself. I have never seen anything this unique and found it to be a refreshing contrast to the stylish somewhat classic French interior.

We started out with 3 amuse-bouche items: Smoked duck on a crisp, a St Pierre (fish) beignet, and ravioli stuffed with ricotta, olive, and walnut.

Stu had the menu a 60E:

- Langoustines on apple salad with Szechwan pepper and crustacean ice cream

- St. Pierre accompanied with a vegetable confit gateau (cake) served with a warm vinaigrette

- Ris de veau on a potato mousseline with shallot butter and port syrup

- Peach soufflé with peach confit, vanilla ice cream and warm chocolate sauce

Ellen had the menu a 33E

- Salmon sushi with mango basmati ice cream and combawa oil

- Cabillaud served on a nettle coulis with sweet garlic and argan oil

- (Same peach soufflé as Stu)

Sept '16 - Excellent dinner. Tied with Belle Etoile as our best meal in the central Dordogne area.

See attached Dordogne & Languedoc itineraries

Stu Dudley

Michael

If it's still there l'Essentiel in Périgueux is definitely worthwhile, even if pricey.

BritishCaicos

I really don't like Sarlat, absolute tourist which is aimed mainly at the camper families (nothing wrong with them but just not my scene). Yes I agree generally the food is dire.

Personally, Perigueux is a nice enough place but that's a long stay, I'd try to fit in Cognac or Angouleme (both good food) or to be honest head for La Rochelle which is incredibly vibrant and has a huge cafe/food scene.

bilboburgler

Try and stay right in the centre of Bordeaux as the outskirts can be very calm. If you are in a car then note that the big bridge to the north tends to funnel traffic onto the ring road which then backs up so it is easier to use the southern part of the roads or the back roads to get around. If you are cycling then there are loads of bicycle lanes and paths in the area but again you have to get out of the ring road to really take advantage of them. TI has maps and cycle hire is easy.

Do you need advice on how to visit wineries?

Michael

Re-posted for readability:

If it's still there l'Essentiel in Périgueux is definitely worthwhile, even if pricey.