Fueled by gluten, caffeine, and alcohol - two weeks in France
May 30th, 2017, 05:41 AM
#21
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Slept in on this rainy morning, lingered over breakfast and then off to Honfleur. I was nervous about getting back in the car, but it ran well, the GPS actually worked and it was easy to find parking just outside of the older section of Honfleur. It started sprinkling on us as we were walking to town so we popped into a cafe for one more coffee and by the time we exited the skies were blue!
The weather tends to have such an impact on my perception of a place. Florence is always gloomy in my mind because the only time I’ve been there it was mostly rainy and cold. Honfleur will always be sparkly and shining to me because those blue skies and a cool light breeze lasted the rest of the day. It was gorgeous!
We enjoyed Honfleur tremendously. It’s touristy, but it is so beautiful, and there really is something about that light, I can see why the impressionists wanted to paint there. Light was gleaming off the buildings, shimmering on the water. Radiant, luminous. It made me happy to be there.
Honfleur has more than its share of half timbered buildings. My husband loved seeing those. We spent a lot of time just wandering streets and looking at buildings.
We ended up eating on the harbor. Super touristy restaurants and it probably doesn’t matter which you select. We did look at SaQuaNa and a couple of the other more renowned restaurants, but really we just wanted to sit on the Harbor and watch the light and have a simple salad so that’s what we did! My salad was pretty good. Spring greens with chopped apples as well as some warm camembert cooked in phyllo to crack open over the salad. It had a mustardy, lemony dressing. And I had a cider! Duh. Perfect accompaniment.
Musee de la marine - this one is located in the church across the harbor from all the restaurants. Mostly we wanted to see inside the church with its roof that was built like the hull of a ship. There were some models of the ships that they used as well as other seafaring artifacts. With your entry to this museum you can also go to the…
Musee d’ethnographie - II kept calling this the prison museum because it was housed in what had been the old prison. I thought it was interesting as it gave a glimpse into what life would have been like in the town of Honfleur across several centuries. They had clothing and rooms set up the way they would have been. It is small and easy to see and I enjoyed it.
We also climbed to a lookout point way above the town. Way above. The walk was very steep!! You could drive up there, but no, we decided to walk. The view was nice mostly because you could see the beautiful bridge across to La Havre. The vantage down to Honfleur itself was really not that impressive. It was at such an angle that you really couldn’t see much of the town.
If I were you…I’d drive up there.
Back to Bayeux for the evening and not knowing exactly where we would be at what time we hadn’t made restaurant reservations and ended up eating at La Garde Manger. They have a nice patio, but other than that there is simply nothing notable about this place.
We took a bottle of wine back to our beautiful room and enjoyed watching the sunset and feeling the cool evening breeze through our open windows.
We had not done/seen/accomplished nearly as much on this day as I had hoped when I was planning and yet we were both completely content and happy.
The weather tends to have such an impact on my perception of a place. Florence is always gloomy in my mind because the only time I’ve been there it was mostly rainy and cold. Honfleur will always be sparkly and shining to me because those blue skies and a cool light breeze lasted the rest of the day. It was gorgeous!
We enjoyed Honfleur tremendously. It’s touristy, but it is so beautiful, and there really is something about that light, I can see why the impressionists wanted to paint there. Light was gleaming off the buildings, shimmering on the water. Radiant, luminous. It made me happy to be there.
Honfleur has more than its share of half timbered buildings. My husband loved seeing those. We spent a lot of time just wandering streets and looking at buildings.
We ended up eating on the harbor. Super touristy restaurants and it probably doesn’t matter which you select. We did look at SaQuaNa and a couple of the other more renowned restaurants, but really we just wanted to sit on the Harbor and watch the light and have a simple salad so that’s what we did! My salad was pretty good. Spring greens with chopped apples as well as some warm camembert cooked in phyllo to crack open over the salad. It had a mustardy, lemony dressing. And I had a cider! Duh. Perfect accompaniment.
Musee de la marine - this one is located in the church across the harbor from all the restaurants. Mostly we wanted to see inside the church with its roof that was built like the hull of a ship. There were some models of the ships that they used as well as other seafaring artifacts. With your entry to this museum you can also go to the…
Musee d’ethnographie - II kept calling this the prison museum because it was housed in what had been the old prison. I thought it was interesting as it gave a glimpse into what life would have been like in the town of Honfleur across several centuries. They had clothing and rooms set up the way they would have been. It is small and easy to see and I enjoyed it.
We also climbed to a lookout point way above the town. Way above. The walk was very steep!! You could drive up there, but no, we decided to walk. The view was nice mostly because you could see the beautiful bridge across to La Havre. The vantage down to Honfleur itself was really not that impressive. It was at such an angle that you really couldn’t see much of the town.
If I were you…I’d drive up there.
Back to Bayeux for the evening and not knowing exactly where we would be at what time we hadn’t made restaurant reservations and ended up eating at La Garde Manger. They have a nice patio, but other than that there is simply nothing notable about this place.
We took a bottle of wine back to our beautiful room and enjoyed watching the sunset and feeling the cool evening breeze through our open windows.
We had not done/seen/accomplished nearly as much on this day as I had hoped when I was planning and yet we were both completely content and happy.
May 30th, 2017, 10:34 AM
#22
Lovely account of a lovely day, Kay.
I now have a confession to make - despite having been to France more times than I can remember - [it's easy enough living in the UK after all] and learning about 1066 and the Bayeux Tapestry at school about 50 years ago, and loving seafood, and ports and suchlike, I have never been on Bayeux or Honfleur to that part of the French coast. Or Mont St Michel come to that. I tried to persuade DH to go there last November but he wanted to go to Brittany [again!] and just at the moment I don't see us going anywhere.
But you are making me more determined to get there, somehow, sometime, Kay. Thank you.
I now have a confession to make - despite having been to France more times than I can remember - [it's easy enough living in the UK after all] and learning about 1066 and the Bayeux Tapestry at school about 50 years ago, and loving seafood, and ports and suchlike, I have never been on Bayeux or Honfleur to that part of the French coast. Or Mont St Michel come to that. I tried to persuade DH to go there last November but he wanted to go to Brittany [again!] and just at the moment I don't see us going anywhere.
But you are making me more determined to get there, somehow, sometime, Kay. Thank you.
May 31st, 2017, 04:43 AM
#23
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Thank you annhig. I do hope you get to visit Normandy. We loved it and didn't get to do nearly as much as I had hoped. We would have loved to have driven the cider route and more of the port towns and beaches. We didn't get to Mont St. Michel either!
May 31st, 2017, 04:44 AM
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We took a D-Day beaches tour while in Normandy. Yes, you could see all the beaches and sites on your own, but I am so glad we did a tour. We used D-Day Battle tours with Ellwood Rene Von Seibold. I definitely would recommend him! I thought he did a great job of appealing to those who are knowledgeable about D-Day as well as those who aren’t, of giving you the facts and the big overall picture while still providing the details, those little anecdotes that make the facts come alive.
We did his basic D-Day tour which visited the Airborne museum as well as the church in St. Mere Eglise, Utah Beach, Point du Hoc, Omaha Beach, and the American Cemetery. My WWII knowledge is admittedly minimal, on the other hand, my husband has read many books and watched many movies and done research about this time period, yet the tour was interesting to both of us.
I don’t know how many people are normally on these tours, but there were only 4 of us, my husband and I and two ladies from California who were not only a joy to spend the day with, but provided me with hope and major goals for my quickly aging self. One was in her 80’s and the other in her late 70’s. They had both traveled a lot when their husbands were alive and now were traveling together. They were driving their own car and I promise you they both clambered in and out of Ellwood’s van more easily than I did. I enjoyed every minute being with them.
The tour began in the town of St. Mere Eglise. My husband and I had a slight sight-seeing detour on the way there through a nearby town with a church in the middle that looked similar to the famous church in St. Mere Eglise, but without a person to be seen. Just so you know - there are at least two 14 Rue Eisenhowers in Normandy so don’t just put in the address to get to the beginning of the tour.
I won’t say much about the places we visited. Each was interesting. Each was evocative.
The American Cemetery though. I found myself weeping. Completely unexpected as I am not a crier. It is beautiful, poignant, peaceful, and sad. It was honor and horror and hope and despair all rolled up into one. It was one of the most affecting places I’ve ever visited.
Le Pommier - it was a Monday evening so a couple of our top choices of restaurants were closed, but we really enjoyed our dinner here. Finally! It is a small and quiet place, simply and nicely decorated with pleasant, but formal service. Our B and B hosts had suggested that seafood was the best choice here, my husband had the fish with peanut crumble and sweet pepper sauce. He thought it was very good. I ended up going against the grain and having the gratin of lamb and potatoes with mediterranean spices. It was quite good, but after a taste of his I realized that I should have heeded the advice to have seafood. They have Normandy oysters, lobster, crab, prawns, etc.
On to Amboise!
We did his basic D-Day tour which visited the Airborne museum as well as the church in St. Mere Eglise, Utah Beach, Point du Hoc, Omaha Beach, and the American Cemetery. My WWII knowledge is admittedly minimal, on the other hand, my husband has read many books and watched many movies and done research about this time period, yet the tour was interesting to both of us.
I don’t know how many people are normally on these tours, but there were only 4 of us, my husband and I and two ladies from California who were not only a joy to spend the day with, but provided me with hope and major goals for my quickly aging self. One was in her 80’s and the other in her late 70’s. They had both traveled a lot when their husbands were alive and now were traveling together. They were driving their own car and I promise you they both clambered in and out of Ellwood’s van more easily than I did. I enjoyed every minute being with them.
The tour began in the town of St. Mere Eglise. My husband and I had a slight sight-seeing detour on the way there through a nearby town with a church in the middle that looked similar to the famous church in St. Mere Eglise, but without a person to be seen. Just so you know - there are at least two 14 Rue Eisenhowers in Normandy so don’t just put in the address to get to the beginning of the tour.
I won’t say much about the places we visited. Each was interesting. Each was evocative.
The American Cemetery though. I found myself weeping. Completely unexpected as I am not a crier. It is beautiful, poignant, peaceful, and sad. It was honor and horror and hope and despair all rolled up into one. It was one of the most affecting places I’ve ever visited.
Le Pommier - it was a Monday evening so a couple of our top choices of restaurants were closed, but we really enjoyed our dinner here. Finally! It is a small and quiet place, simply and nicely decorated with pleasant, but formal service. Our B and B hosts had suggested that seafood was the best choice here, my husband had the fish with peanut crumble and sweet pepper sauce. He thought it was very good. I ended up going against the grain and having the gratin of lamb and potatoes with mediterranean spices. It was quite good, but after a taste of his I realized that I should have heeded the advice to have seafood. They have Normandy oysters, lobster, crab, prawns, etc.
On to Amboise!
May 31st, 2017, 02:22 PM
#28
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Not sure if this will work. Trying to post a link to our Normandy photos.
Most were taken with my DSLR camera with a couple of iPhone selfies thrown in for good measure.
https://kkfrance2017.shutterfly.com
Most were taken with my DSLR camera with a couple of iPhone selfies thrown in for good measure.
https://kkfrance2017.shutterfly.com
May 31st, 2017, 04:10 PM
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Kay,
We leave next week for Paris and plan to visit Amboise so I am looking forward to your report.
I felt much the same as you when we visited the American Cemetery in Normandy. They were all so young and they saved the world. My grandfather landed on Normandy and I so wish he were still alive so I could talk about it with him.
Lisa
We leave next week for Paris and plan to visit Amboise so I am looking forward to your report.
I felt much the same as you when we visited the American Cemetery in Normandy. They were all so young and they saved the world. My grandfather landed on Normandy and I so wish he were still alive so I could talk about it with him.
Lisa
Jun 2nd, 2017, 09:08 AM
#32
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Arriving at Le Vieux Manoir was like a dream. This home is gorgeous. The gardens both front and back are perfection. The cherries were ripe on the cherry tree and the air was sweetly scented by all the blooming roses. The decor of the home is warm and inviting. Our room was small, but pleasant and livable. The bed was extremely comfortable and the linens were excellent.
If you happen to read any trip advisor reviews about this place you will see that the complaints are mostly about the hosts. It is true that the glass of wine that you are served upon arrival comes with a side of opinions. But the owner Gloria is an older woman who has lived in Amboise 20 years. I figure she is entitled to a few opinions about the place. She is full of stories and attitude and thoughts. I personally enjoyed my conversations with her and found her to be quick and witty and interesting.
I wouldn’t bring children to this bed and breakfast and I wouldn’t travel in a group here if I wanted to be laughing and visiting into the night, but for us it was a great place to stay. Just so well done and gorgeous. We would definitely stay here again.
Breakfast was delicious at Le Vieux Manoir (can someone please, please tell me how to find yogurt in the states that tastes like the yogurt in France!) and we met the nicest couple from England. They were a bit older than us, pleasant, friendly and talkative - I’m pretty sure we solved all the world’s problems together. We spent both breakfast mornings visiting with them.
Our first afternoon in Amboise was spent at the Chateau d’Amboise. Loved it and definitely worth a visit even if you aren’t staying in Amboise. It is right on the Loire River with gorgeous views of the town. It also has the little chapel where Leonardo da Vinci is buried.
Gloria had asked us upon arrival if we wanted to take a reservation she had made at the restaurant L’ilot. We accepted and ended up so happy that we had. We thoroughly enjoyed the meal as well as the entire experience of this restaurant. It is a tiny place - seats perhaps 30 people - and the chef cooks right in the middle of the room. A bar is built around 3 sides of his work space and our reservation was for stools at the bar where we could sit and watch him work. SO fun! He was usually very serious about his work, but on occasion there would be a smile and a sparkle in his eye and a bit of showmanship would appear. You felt that he loved what he was doing.
The waitress was not only helpful, but funny as well. She had a great sense of humor. The menu was written on a board and gave you two choices of the appetizer, two choices of the main course, and two choices of dessert, and you could choose a cheese course as well if you wanted. The wines on their list were all Loire valley wines. The menu changes daily depending on what the chef finds at the market.
My husband and I ordered opposites of everything on the menu so that we could taste it all. The food was excellent and so was the ambiance. Loved everything about this evening.
If you happen to read any trip advisor reviews about this place you will see that the complaints are mostly about the hosts. It is true that the glass of wine that you are served upon arrival comes with a side of opinions. But the owner Gloria is an older woman who has lived in Amboise 20 years. I figure she is entitled to a few opinions about the place. She is full of stories and attitude and thoughts. I personally enjoyed my conversations with her and found her to be quick and witty and interesting.
I wouldn’t bring children to this bed and breakfast and I wouldn’t travel in a group here if I wanted to be laughing and visiting into the night, but for us it was a great place to stay. Just so well done and gorgeous. We would definitely stay here again.
Breakfast was delicious at Le Vieux Manoir (can someone please, please tell me how to find yogurt in the states that tastes like the yogurt in France!) and we met the nicest couple from England. They were a bit older than us, pleasant, friendly and talkative - I’m pretty sure we solved all the world’s problems together. We spent both breakfast mornings visiting with them.
Our first afternoon in Amboise was spent at the Chateau d’Amboise. Loved it and definitely worth a visit even if you aren’t staying in Amboise. It is right on the Loire River with gorgeous views of the town. It also has the little chapel where Leonardo da Vinci is buried.
Gloria had asked us upon arrival if we wanted to take a reservation she had made at the restaurant L’ilot. We accepted and ended up so happy that we had. We thoroughly enjoyed the meal as well as the entire experience of this restaurant. It is a tiny place - seats perhaps 30 people - and the chef cooks right in the middle of the room. A bar is built around 3 sides of his work space and our reservation was for stools at the bar where we could sit and watch him work. SO fun! He was usually very serious about his work, but on occasion there would be a smile and a sparkle in his eye and a bit of showmanship would appear. You felt that he loved what he was doing.
The waitress was not only helpful, but funny as well. She had a great sense of humor. The menu was written on a board and gave you two choices of the appetizer, two choices of the main course, and two choices of dessert, and you could choose a cheese course as well if you wanted. The wines on their list were all Loire valley wines. The menu changes daily depending on what the chef finds at the market.
My husband and I ordered opposites of everything on the menu so that we could taste it all. The food was excellent and so was the ambiance. Loved everything about this evening.
Jun 2nd, 2017, 02:27 PM
#34
Le vieux Manor sounds lovely, Kay. We have stayed in a few "Chambers D'Hotes" [B&B] places in France and they are all different, some of them being quite idiosyncratic, but they are a great way to meet the locals, and other travellers too. We stayed at one place where they had a communal breakfast table and all the other guests were non-English speaking French people - that was a great lesson and not just in the French language but in their customs and behaviour. And they were all so friendly!
sounds like a wonderful meal too!
sounds like a wonderful meal too!
Jun 2nd, 2017, 05:48 PM
#35
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I'm enjoying your report and I also agree about French yogurt - love it.
I like the chateau d'Amboise and the town. My first visit there was in 1973. My last visit there was Nov 2016.
Looking forward to more of your trip report!
I like the chateau d'Amboise and the town. My first visit there was in 1973. My last visit there was Nov 2016.
Looking forward to more of your trip report!
Jun 2nd, 2017, 09:46 PM
#36
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Loving your trip report, the photos and a peek into Le Vieux Manoir. We loved our stay there in 2007 and my husband enjoyed his conversations with Gloria (both if them having strong, differing opinions). Best breakfast at a hotel or B&B in our experience.
Jun 5th, 2017, 10:07 AM
#39
KayTKay, you write a wonderful TR. Some of your experiences and impressions reflect mine in a couple of visits to Normandy...others are new to me and are enticements to return, soon.
Your car fiasco is also familiar - something similar happened to me in Uruguay; I was driving and it was not automatic...and it was not my driving that caused the car to smoke, choke up and stop on a crowded highway in rush hour. When the company came to where we were, they tried to imply that it was just, well, you know, a woman driver
but then their mechanic tried to re-start the car and gave up - and gave us another car ! As you write, these things happen and the most important is that there is no lasting harm done and the trip is unspoiled because of a good attitude. I salute you !
Your car fiasco is also familiar - something similar happened to me in Uruguay; I was driving and it was not automatic...and it was not my driving that caused the car to smoke, choke up and stop on a crowded highway in rush hour. When the company came to where we were, they tried to imply that it was just, well, you know, a woman driver
but then their mechanic tried to re-start the car and gave up - and gave us another car ! As you write, these things happen and the most important is that there is no lasting harm done and the trip is unspoiled because of a good attitude. I salute you !
Jun 6th, 2017, 06:36 PM
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Thanks to everyone who has commented!
Scootoir - so glad that you enjoyed le vieux manoir as well. I agree with you - one of the best breakfasts I've had when staying anywhere. I do wonder how much longer Bob and Gloria will be able to run the place. They are both struggling a bit with getting around, but I also could tell that they are determined to keep on.
MarnieWDC - Car trouble in a foreign country is the worst! On our last trip to Italy our rental car died on the autostrada and we found ourselves riding inside the broken car on the back of the tow truck. Interesting, but not the safest experience I've ever had. We laugh about it now.
Scootoir - so glad that you enjoyed le vieux manoir as well. I agree with you - one of the best breakfasts I've had when staying anywhere. I do wonder how much longer Bob and Gloria will be able to run the place. They are both struggling a bit with getting around, but I also could tell that they are determined to keep on.
MarnieWDC - Car trouble in a foreign country is the worst! On our last trip to Italy our rental car died on the autostrada and we found ourselves riding inside the broken car on the back of the tow truck. Interesting, but not the safest experience I've ever had. We laugh about it now.
