Long trip report part 1, just returned great adventures
Jun 25th, 2006, 06:34 AM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Long trip report part 1, just returned great adventures
Our Costa Rica trip is upon us, all we have to do now is for me to finish up a couple of customer visits, Judy and Nate (our 18 yr. old) to finish packing and drive to New York where we will spend the night before we leave with Jake (20 yr. old) from LaGuardia to Liberia. We are using frequent flyer tickets forcing us to go from NYC rather than our home in Boston. The anticipation of many active adventures including; white water rafting, canopy zip lines, horseback riding and hiking have our family & friends (not to mention ourselves) nervous about the potential for injury, particularly for Judy and me, particularly because we are 51 & 52 and carry some extra weight. Our plan is to leave around 11:00, but I get hung up running to some stores for last minute things including a Spanish-English phrase book (I can’t find the one Judy bought me last father’s day), in my haste running into Annie’s Book Store in Beverly I tripped over the curb and sprawled out all over the wet sidewalk (it’s been raining for days) with scrapes cuts and bruises on my wrist, chest and lower arm, see this trip is dangerous. Well, now that I got that out of the way the trip will hopefully go smoothly. I made it home, still no phrase book and they are still have mucho packing to do. We finally made it out of our house around 1:30.
Our plans are to meet Jake and his girlfriend Kathleen in the city, have dinner together and wake up call at 3:45 for 6:00 flight. Stayed at the Pan American Hotel, great deal for Park & Shuttle, by staying there prior to trip and on our return we had a very reasonable long term parking deal, it was very reasonable. Nate & Jake stayed out in the city and didn’t get back to room until close to 3:00 am for our 3:45 wake up (ah to be young).
Our flights through Atlanta landing at Liberia were very smooth. The week prior to the trip Delta airlines called and had changed the times of our flights, turned out to our advantage in that we arrived around 11:00 CR time instead of 6:00pm. Our original plans had us staying the night in Liberia at
El Punto
PO Box 13 5000 Liberia, Gte Costa Rica
Liberia
p. +506 6652986
f. +506 6662313
e. [email protected]
We saw it and it was very convenient to airport it is a hostel style accommodations, but for short money it would have worked out fine.
La Carolina (day 1)
Instead we were off on the Dollar Rent a Car (we chose Dollar because of the price) shuttle, having paid our departure tax upon our arrival, as per recommendations on Fodor’s we were off. Paying the departure tax from Liberia may not be important as it is in San Jose, the airport is soooo low key, there were no lines at our departure, but I’m getting ahead of myself. We rented a Nissan Pathfinder and were given automatic instead of standard trans. It served us well.
I can not say enough wonderful things about our stay at La Carolina, it is about a 1.5 hour drive from airport in an area toward Upala that does not see much tourism. The roads were bumpy, bumpy and more bumpy, something we would grow to get used to. I found myself following the local driver ahead of me: driving on the right, moving to the left, off on the shoulder and when someone went too slow… you pass them… hoping to not hit a vehicle coming from the other direction, now you know how to drive in CR. When I stopped in a little market they were very uncertain about how to deal with dollars and change for our Alpina water, we worked it out. We speak no Spanish and when we arrived at La Carolina our hosts spoke no English, but with smiles and pointing we were able to make it work (the owner who speaks English was in the states). Ernestina, our host at La Carolina www.lacarolinalodge.com/main.html was warm and inviting, she showed us to our private lodge overlooking the property, it seems fairly new and was HUGE. King size bed for Judy and me with a double bed and single bed in a huge other room. Large bathroom with solar heated hot water. The walls were basically screened windows with a little bit of wall between them, the roof corrugated aluminum making the overnight rain beating on our roof very loud. The sounds of the insects, birds, howler monkeys and rain made our inside feel like an integral part of the outside.
Ernestina showed us the property with a huge veranda wrapping around the main lodge she poured me my first cup of café Negro from the fully wood fired kitchen, a fireplace surrounded by rocking chairs, a couple of hammocks all overlooking either the meadows, the river or the horse stables and hills. Our next stop was down to the stream where they have diverted stream water into a wood fired hot pool. The pool is made of stone with a stone bench all around which would comfortably seat 8 or 9 people, The water from the hot pool comes from the stream and into copper tubes which go around a metal sheaf of the fire pit, they keep wood available to add to the fire (unbelievable). We played in the stream water then lounged in the hot pool enjoying the bird life the incoming rain and life (Pura Vida).
We also took a walk up the horse trails deep into the thick rain forest, what fun. After sun set we went back to the veranda where our dinner was to be served. We met some of the other guests; some teachers at an English school in Guancaste and some of their friends from their home state Oregon, we also met a couple of young men from France. Fortunately Brian & Sarah (the teachers) spoke Spanish reasonably well and were very helpful during the rest of our stay.
Dinner was delicious, true typical food cooked over wood fire some conversation with the other guests and discussion of our plans for day 2. Included with the nights lodging is not only three great meals, but a guided hike and horseback ride. We all hung after dinner in the rockers and hammocks until we were ready for a nights sleep. We all slept well with the sounds of the rain forest all around.
Day 2, La Carolina, Hike to Rio Celeste, and drive to Arenal
I woke up hours before the rest of my family went to the hot pool, where I read and relaxed… luxurious. Everyone joined me and we had breakfast with the whole crew of guests we all decided to go on the guided hike to Rio Celeste. Before we left they came running for us to follow them up a hill where they pointed out a sloth up in a tree. It was cool to see, but honestly it looked like a grey blob… more wildlife to see later. We followed our Spanish speaking guide in our Pathfinder, he brought the guys from France in the back of his truck and they held on for dear life over the bumps, and bumps and more bumps… no pavement to be found. About a 10 minute ride to the trail head at the national park, $6 per person admission to the park. At the Ranger Station were specimens of all kinds of reptile, snake and spider life you might see in the rainforest, these specimens were preserved in what I assume was formaldehyde.
We headed into the woods for what would be a very rigorous hike, up and down switchbacks and stairs carved into the forest. Judy & I found ourselves to be twice as old as the closest to our age, this would be a common occurrence on this adventure. The scenery was magnificent as the guide pointed out HUGE colonies of cutter ants, plants that played dead when you touch them, he picked natural citronella for us to apply as bug repellant… It was all very interesting and informative. It felt like we were in a National Geographic special on Spanish television.
We finally came to Rio Celeste a huge pool of azure blue with a massive waterfall pounding into the pool. Swam in the pool, but could not go too close to the waterfall in that someone had drowned there recently. After everyone was ready we crossed the river to continue our hike, up and up and up… it was strenuous (but well worth it), we came to a sulfur pool with steam coming form the bright blue water. The pungent smell of sulfur filled our nostrils, we were told not to touch any of the water o our right that we would be burned. As we crossed this river I stepped on a rock and my feet flew out from under me and I landed flat on a in a cooler pool. I was very fortunate that I was carrying the book Tuesday’s with Morrie by Mitch Albon, the small hardcover book literally took the rock for me. The rock tore the jacket cover through my backpack and put a deep indentation into the cover, other than being shaken up, having the wind compressed in me and nasty scrapes on my arm I was fine.
{A brief aside about why this book was in my pack, I started the trip reading a paperback crime novel and could not find it upon our arrival at La Carolina, so I picked this up. It had me in tears at the morning hot pool session, and may have saved me from serious injury from my fall, where I indented the cover of the book was right by Rabbi Harold Kushner’s endorsement, the author of; When Bad Things Happen to Good People, Rabbi Kushner shares the same surname of Judy… after I finish Tuesday’s with Morrie, I did find the book I had been reading… Thanks Morrie}
The hike continued around the river over a log bridge to the merging of two rivers of normal river color, when the two rivers joined the water turned that amazing azure blue, close to the color of a blue raspberry Popsicle, a color prior to this hike I thought never occurred in nature.
We hiked out stopped at a soda on the way, got water and coconut frozen treats, they were amazing filled with large strips of coconut. and headed back to La Carolina for lunch and if we had wanted a horseback ride. Lunch was great, we packed up our car had one last soak in the hot pool and stream, settled up with Ernestina ($55 each for lodging, 3 hearty meals, guided hike and if we could have fit it horseback riding… what a value and experience).
Highest recommendation for overall experience and value.
It seemed like we had been to La Carolina for days, but it was just 24 hours… off to Palo Verde resort in La Fortuna. We ended up going through Upala so as not to repeat any routes. Roads varied between okay and bumpy…got a little lost in Upala and had trouble finding anyone who could direct us to rte. 4 heading south to La Fortuna. Finally a fellow on a bike with his umbrella open (it was raining slightly) had us follow him on his bike bringing us to Rte. 4 with a big smile, he seemed a bit reluctant to take our tip, but we were happy to give it. At this point we were working with Colones and would for the rest of the trip.
Palo Verde Resort
The ride was beautiful by pineapple plantations and through many little towns then Arenal Volcano appeared to the west, clear as could be, it took our breath away. Drove in as if approaching the volcano with smoke spewing from its crater, thinking about the impact of an eruption, trusting it would not happen on our visit. We found Palo Verde through Arenal and out the other side right near Volcano Lodge. Palo Verde has a large hot tub, but no pool you can use the pool down the street at Arenal Springs Resort (500 meters). Our cabin at Palo Verde was comfortable with a queen size bed in one room, a television; undersized air conditioner with a good size bathroom off the bedroom, a second small room had 2 twin beds. Our host is Gene.
The entire experience at Palo Verde is laid back. The prime feature is the view of Arenal volcano from the porch… WOW what a view of the fireworks created all night with the mini eruptions. The activity of the volcano was a pleasant surprise. It stayed this way pretty me much for our entire stay. (For any of you who have stayed or researched Palo Verde in the past, Gene’s parrot left, appears that the parrot flew away, Gene hoping that he found true love.)
Dinner at Don Ruffino downtown La Fortuna, (had first alcoholic drink with my two boys who are legal in CR) food was good, especially anything prepared in half pineapple; I had shrimp and Judy chicken that way. The atmosphere was more American than anywhere else we would eat even though it is Tico owned. Walked around La Fortuna, Jake & Nate hit internet café, tried in vain to find international calling card. Then back to our Hotel where we were entertained by the eruptions then off to sleep for a busy day 3.
Day 3 PURE TREK rappelling www.puretrekcostarica.com/
After a morning at the pool and breakfast at Lava Rock Café in La Fortuna, (great breakfast, good value great coffee, across from a big church… hummingbirds everywhere). We walked the short 2 minute walk from our door to Pure Trek adventures facility. They fed us a typical lunch and loaded us onto a Tourismo bus, that took 18 of us to a spot where we were picked up by 4 wheel drive vehicles that took us high into the mountains. The staff was very professional and gave us a very in-depth safety talk (spoke very good English) they sprinkled in humor to keep the mood light. Judy and I were again twice as old as anyone else, and were both scared sh—less, but on we went. The 1st rappel was 165’ (so they say), this was the longest of the five rappels. The staff was very supportive and with their help and them having safeties at the top and bottom, we did it!
Moderate hike out of canyon and repeat steps back to their lovely facility for cookies and lemonade and an opportunity to buy a cd of the photos taken on the adventure. This ½ day trip cost $85 each and was very well staffed. We felt safe and informed every ‘jump’ along the way.
We went to use hot tub, but it was cold and would have taken too long to heat, unless it’s busy would have to plan in advance.
We went for dinner at El Novello, a steak house often mentioned on fodors.com, east of Palo Verde. As all of our dining experiences dining El Novello also is missing some walls. All of the restaurants are open air, this place is very casual with corrugated tin roof amplifying the sound of the POURING rain, it was coming down in sheets. The food was a bit disappointing steaks were okay, but not great. The view on the other hand was unbelievable. The flow of the lava seemed to be heading directly into the open wall of the restaurant. The eruptions were continuous and spectacular. The restaurant turned the lights off on a couple of huge eruptions and the dinners greeted the show with applause, it literally took our breath away.
We drove a little further down road to locate Tabacon for future reference www.tabacon.com/home_i.html . Back to Palo Verde for a night sleep getting ready white water rafting the Rio Toro with Desafio. www.desafiocostarica.com/
Day 4 Rio Toro
Breakfast Volcano Lodge buffet, speed was of the essence it was pretty good, great fruit. Back to pack being picked up at our place at 8:15. Tourismo bus pulled up on time, for our 1.5 hr ride to the put in. We were on this adventure with others our age; The Steinberg’s their 3 kids ranging from 15 – 23 from Cleveland and a honeymoon couple from Denver. Nice conversation on the drive passing beautiful scenery. The rafting was fun supposedly class III & IV, but from my experience it was II & III with a couple of IV’s mixed in. Best fruit of the trip was cut up by Rocky and the other guides at a swimming hole. The pineapple was unbelievable. The distinguishing feature of the Rio Toro is that the rapids are pretty much continuous, we all had fun and Desafio did a fine job. They brought us back to a facility of theirs where they fed us a very nice lunch and then back to our hotel.
Our plan for our last night at Arenal was to go to Tabacon, $35 from 6:00 – 11:00, it is my understanding that they keep raising the tariff to discourage people who aren’t guests of their lodging from coming in without sacrificing income. They provide towels and lockers by giving a credit card for deposit, but there is no charge. They have good showers with hair and body wash.
I guess guests were concerned about it being too crowded. When we were there it was very empty, even though the hotel was full. We kept inquiring into staying there this last night but they were full. Our family’s consensus is that it was well worth it for the experience. It is special, we did not want to have regrets by missing the experience while we were there. We closed up the joint at 11:00. Prior to our visit to Tabacon we spent time at the pool at Arenal Springs and had a very good dinner at Volcano Lodge (the front restaurant- the breakfast buffet is out back.) Nate & I both had steak and thought it was much better than El Novella’s.
Last thoughts on Palo Verde; low key, could have used more attention, no housekeeping we actually ran out of toilet tissue once, a/c was not adequate, but it is personal and small, many of the other places were very large and impersonal, at many places guests had to wear wrist bands to be identified and go through guard gates to enter and exit. I think this was a good choice for us although maid service would be appropriate.
Day 5 off to Montezuma
We got an early start drive was bumpy, but gorgeous scenery. We decided to go around Lake Arenal against some advice on this board. We were not disappointed, as far as driving there is a necessary mind set of going with the flow, having an appropriate vehicle and a sense of humor the roads only got worse from here. The ride was about 3 ½ hours, we stopped along the way at an adorable spot along the road; Toad Hall, don’t miss out on the waffles and the pineapple leche.
The view of the mountains is special with birds butterflies and hummingbirds everywhere.
Will continue soon with our ferry trip and time in Montezuma, Santa Teresa and Rincon de la Viejo area if you want it??
Our plans are to meet Jake and his girlfriend Kathleen in the city, have dinner together and wake up call at 3:45 for 6:00 flight. Stayed at the Pan American Hotel, great deal for Park & Shuttle, by staying there prior to trip and on our return we had a very reasonable long term parking deal, it was very reasonable. Nate & Jake stayed out in the city and didn’t get back to room until close to 3:00 am for our 3:45 wake up (ah to be young).
Our flights through Atlanta landing at Liberia were very smooth. The week prior to the trip Delta airlines called and had changed the times of our flights, turned out to our advantage in that we arrived around 11:00 CR time instead of 6:00pm. Our original plans had us staying the night in Liberia at
El Punto
PO Box 13 5000 Liberia, Gte Costa Rica
Liberia
p. +506 6652986
f. +506 6662313
e. [email protected]
We saw it and it was very convenient to airport it is a hostel style accommodations, but for short money it would have worked out fine.
La Carolina (day 1)
Instead we were off on the Dollar Rent a Car (we chose Dollar because of the price) shuttle, having paid our departure tax upon our arrival, as per recommendations on Fodor’s we were off. Paying the departure tax from Liberia may not be important as it is in San Jose, the airport is soooo low key, there were no lines at our departure, but I’m getting ahead of myself. We rented a Nissan Pathfinder and were given automatic instead of standard trans. It served us well.
I can not say enough wonderful things about our stay at La Carolina, it is about a 1.5 hour drive from airport in an area toward Upala that does not see much tourism. The roads were bumpy, bumpy and more bumpy, something we would grow to get used to. I found myself following the local driver ahead of me: driving on the right, moving to the left, off on the shoulder and when someone went too slow… you pass them… hoping to not hit a vehicle coming from the other direction, now you know how to drive in CR. When I stopped in a little market they were very uncertain about how to deal with dollars and change for our Alpina water, we worked it out. We speak no Spanish and when we arrived at La Carolina our hosts spoke no English, but with smiles and pointing we were able to make it work (the owner who speaks English was in the states). Ernestina, our host at La Carolina www.lacarolinalodge.com/main.html was warm and inviting, she showed us to our private lodge overlooking the property, it seems fairly new and was HUGE. King size bed for Judy and me with a double bed and single bed in a huge other room. Large bathroom with solar heated hot water. The walls were basically screened windows with a little bit of wall between them, the roof corrugated aluminum making the overnight rain beating on our roof very loud. The sounds of the insects, birds, howler monkeys and rain made our inside feel like an integral part of the outside.
Ernestina showed us the property with a huge veranda wrapping around the main lodge she poured me my first cup of café Negro from the fully wood fired kitchen, a fireplace surrounded by rocking chairs, a couple of hammocks all overlooking either the meadows, the river or the horse stables and hills. Our next stop was down to the stream where they have diverted stream water into a wood fired hot pool. The pool is made of stone with a stone bench all around which would comfortably seat 8 or 9 people, The water from the hot pool comes from the stream and into copper tubes which go around a metal sheaf of the fire pit, they keep wood available to add to the fire (unbelievable). We played in the stream water then lounged in the hot pool enjoying the bird life the incoming rain and life (Pura Vida).
We also took a walk up the horse trails deep into the thick rain forest, what fun. After sun set we went back to the veranda where our dinner was to be served. We met some of the other guests; some teachers at an English school in Guancaste and some of their friends from their home state Oregon, we also met a couple of young men from France. Fortunately Brian & Sarah (the teachers) spoke Spanish reasonably well and were very helpful during the rest of our stay.
Dinner was delicious, true typical food cooked over wood fire some conversation with the other guests and discussion of our plans for day 2. Included with the nights lodging is not only three great meals, but a guided hike and horseback ride. We all hung after dinner in the rockers and hammocks until we were ready for a nights sleep. We all slept well with the sounds of the rain forest all around.
Day 2, La Carolina, Hike to Rio Celeste, and drive to Arenal
I woke up hours before the rest of my family went to the hot pool, where I read and relaxed… luxurious. Everyone joined me and we had breakfast with the whole crew of guests we all decided to go on the guided hike to Rio Celeste. Before we left they came running for us to follow them up a hill where they pointed out a sloth up in a tree. It was cool to see, but honestly it looked like a grey blob… more wildlife to see later. We followed our Spanish speaking guide in our Pathfinder, he brought the guys from France in the back of his truck and they held on for dear life over the bumps, and bumps and more bumps… no pavement to be found. About a 10 minute ride to the trail head at the national park, $6 per person admission to the park. At the Ranger Station were specimens of all kinds of reptile, snake and spider life you might see in the rainforest, these specimens were preserved in what I assume was formaldehyde.
We headed into the woods for what would be a very rigorous hike, up and down switchbacks and stairs carved into the forest. Judy & I found ourselves to be twice as old as the closest to our age, this would be a common occurrence on this adventure. The scenery was magnificent as the guide pointed out HUGE colonies of cutter ants, plants that played dead when you touch them, he picked natural citronella for us to apply as bug repellant… It was all very interesting and informative. It felt like we were in a National Geographic special on Spanish television.
We finally came to Rio Celeste a huge pool of azure blue with a massive waterfall pounding into the pool. Swam in the pool, but could not go too close to the waterfall in that someone had drowned there recently. After everyone was ready we crossed the river to continue our hike, up and up and up… it was strenuous (but well worth it), we came to a sulfur pool with steam coming form the bright blue water. The pungent smell of sulfur filled our nostrils, we were told not to touch any of the water o our right that we would be burned. As we crossed this river I stepped on a rock and my feet flew out from under me and I landed flat on a in a cooler pool. I was very fortunate that I was carrying the book Tuesday’s with Morrie by Mitch Albon, the small hardcover book literally took the rock for me. The rock tore the jacket cover through my backpack and put a deep indentation into the cover, other than being shaken up, having the wind compressed in me and nasty scrapes on my arm I was fine.
{A brief aside about why this book was in my pack, I started the trip reading a paperback crime novel and could not find it upon our arrival at La Carolina, so I picked this up. It had me in tears at the morning hot pool session, and may have saved me from serious injury from my fall, where I indented the cover of the book was right by Rabbi Harold Kushner’s endorsement, the author of; When Bad Things Happen to Good People, Rabbi Kushner shares the same surname of Judy… after I finish Tuesday’s with Morrie, I did find the book I had been reading… Thanks Morrie}
The hike continued around the river over a log bridge to the merging of two rivers of normal river color, when the two rivers joined the water turned that amazing azure blue, close to the color of a blue raspberry Popsicle, a color prior to this hike I thought never occurred in nature.
We hiked out stopped at a soda on the way, got water and coconut frozen treats, they were amazing filled with large strips of coconut. and headed back to La Carolina for lunch and if we had wanted a horseback ride. Lunch was great, we packed up our car had one last soak in the hot pool and stream, settled up with Ernestina ($55 each for lodging, 3 hearty meals, guided hike and if we could have fit it horseback riding… what a value and experience).
Highest recommendation for overall experience and value.
It seemed like we had been to La Carolina for days, but it was just 24 hours… off to Palo Verde resort in La Fortuna. We ended up going through Upala so as not to repeat any routes. Roads varied between okay and bumpy…got a little lost in Upala and had trouble finding anyone who could direct us to rte. 4 heading south to La Fortuna. Finally a fellow on a bike with his umbrella open (it was raining slightly) had us follow him on his bike bringing us to Rte. 4 with a big smile, he seemed a bit reluctant to take our tip, but we were happy to give it. At this point we were working with Colones and would for the rest of the trip.
Palo Verde Resort
The ride was beautiful by pineapple plantations and through many little towns then Arenal Volcano appeared to the west, clear as could be, it took our breath away. Drove in as if approaching the volcano with smoke spewing from its crater, thinking about the impact of an eruption, trusting it would not happen on our visit. We found Palo Verde through Arenal and out the other side right near Volcano Lodge. Palo Verde has a large hot tub, but no pool you can use the pool down the street at Arenal Springs Resort (500 meters). Our cabin at Palo Verde was comfortable with a queen size bed in one room, a television; undersized air conditioner with a good size bathroom off the bedroom, a second small room had 2 twin beds. Our host is Gene.
The entire experience at Palo Verde is laid back. The prime feature is the view of Arenal volcano from the porch… WOW what a view of the fireworks created all night with the mini eruptions. The activity of the volcano was a pleasant surprise. It stayed this way pretty me much for our entire stay. (For any of you who have stayed or researched Palo Verde in the past, Gene’s parrot left, appears that the parrot flew away, Gene hoping that he found true love.)
Dinner at Don Ruffino downtown La Fortuna, (had first alcoholic drink with my two boys who are legal in CR) food was good, especially anything prepared in half pineapple; I had shrimp and Judy chicken that way. The atmosphere was more American than anywhere else we would eat even though it is Tico owned. Walked around La Fortuna, Jake & Nate hit internet café, tried in vain to find international calling card. Then back to our Hotel where we were entertained by the eruptions then off to sleep for a busy day 3.
Day 3 PURE TREK rappelling www.puretrekcostarica.com/
After a morning at the pool and breakfast at Lava Rock Café in La Fortuna, (great breakfast, good value great coffee, across from a big church… hummingbirds everywhere). We walked the short 2 minute walk from our door to Pure Trek adventures facility. They fed us a typical lunch and loaded us onto a Tourismo bus, that took 18 of us to a spot where we were picked up by 4 wheel drive vehicles that took us high into the mountains. The staff was very professional and gave us a very in-depth safety talk (spoke very good English) they sprinkled in humor to keep the mood light. Judy and I were again twice as old as anyone else, and were both scared sh—less, but on we went. The 1st rappel was 165’ (so they say), this was the longest of the five rappels. The staff was very supportive and with their help and them having safeties at the top and bottom, we did it!
Moderate hike out of canyon and repeat steps back to their lovely facility for cookies and lemonade and an opportunity to buy a cd of the photos taken on the adventure. This ½ day trip cost $85 each and was very well staffed. We felt safe and informed every ‘jump’ along the way.
We went to use hot tub, but it was cold and would have taken too long to heat, unless it’s busy would have to plan in advance.
We went for dinner at El Novello, a steak house often mentioned on fodors.com, east of Palo Verde. As all of our dining experiences dining El Novello also is missing some walls. All of the restaurants are open air, this place is very casual with corrugated tin roof amplifying the sound of the POURING rain, it was coming down in sheets. The food was a bit disappointing steaks were okay, but not great. The view on the other hand was unbelievable. The flow of the lava seemed to be heading directly into the open wall of the restaurant. The eruptions were continuous and spectacular. The restaurant turned the lights off on a couple of huge eruptions and the dinners greeted the show with applause, it literally took our breath away.
We drove a little further down road to locate Tabacon for future reference www.tabacon.com/home_i.html . Back to Palo Verde for a night sleep getting ready white water rafting the Rio Toro with Desafio. www.desafiocostarica.com/
Day 4 Rio Toro
Breakfast Volcano Lodge buffet, speed was of the essence it was pretty good, great fruit. Back to pack being picked up at our place at 8:15. Tourismo bus pulled up on time, for our 1.5 hr ride to the put in. We were on this adventure with others our age; The Steinberg’s their 3 kids ranging from 15 – 23 from Cleveland and a honeymoon couple from Denver. Nice conversation on the drive passing beautiful scenery. The rafting was fun supposedly class III & IV, but from my experience it was II & III with a couple of IV’s mixed in. Best fruit of the trip was cut up by Rocky and the other guides at a swimming hole. The pineapple was unbelievable. The distinguishing feature of the Rio Toro is that the rapids are pretty much continuous, we all had fun and Desafio did a fine job. They brought us back to a facility of theirs where they fed us a very nice lunch and then back to our hotel.
Our plan for our last night at Arenal was to go to Tabacon, $35 from 6:00 – 11:00, it is my understanding that they keep raising the tariff to discourage people who aren’t guests of their lodging from coming in without sacrificing income. They provide towels and lockers by giving a credit card for deposit, but there is no charge. They have good showers with hair and body wash.
I guess guests were concerned about it being too crowded. When we were there it was very empty, even though the hotel was full. We kept inquiring into staying there this last night but they were full. Our family’s consensus is that it was well worth it for the experience. It is special, we did not want to have regrets by missing the experience while we were there. We closed up the joint at 11:00. Prior to our visit to Tabacon we spent time at the pool at Arenal Springs and had a very good dinner at Volcano Lodge (the front restaurant- the breakfast buffet is out back.) Nate & I both had steak and thought it was much better than El Novella’s.
Last thoughts on Palo Verde; low key, could have used more attention, no housekeeping we actually ran out of toilet tissue once, a/c was not adequate, but it is personal and small, many of the other places were very large and impersonal, at many places guests had to wear wrist bands to be identified and go through guard gates to enter and exit. I think this was a good choice for us although maid service would be appropriate.
Day 5 off to Montezuma
We got an early start drive was bumpy, but gorgeous scenery. We decided to go around Lake Arenal against some advice on this board. We were not disappointed, as far as driving there is a necessary mind set of going with the flow, having an appropriate vehicle and a sense of humor the roads only got worse from here. The ride was about 3 ½ hours, we stopped along the way at an adorable spot along the road; Toad Hall, don’t miss out on the waffles and the pineapple leche.
The view of the mountains is special with birds butterflies and hummingbirds everywhere.
Will continue soon with our ferry trip and time in Montezuma, Santa Teresa and Rincon de la Viejo area if you want it??
Jun 25th, 2006, 10:26 AM
#2
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,441
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Would love to read more! Great honest review that is a lot of fun to read. I am one of the people who enjoyed El Novillo. Sorry you didn't like it. We must have hit is right because our steaks were wonderful. Sounds like the volcano gave you an incredible show even through the rain. I am sure a lot of people will be glad to read that.
Jun 25th, 2006, 11:47 AM
#3
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks Suzie,
Here is some more.
Part 2.
Pulled up to Ferry terminal where we were met by ‘Raoul the charmer’ a scam man trying to get $$ from us for providing no service at all. I actually read him the following and told him he is getting famous on line. I include a quote from a past post that we had printed and had it with us,
“. Once there, you will see a car line for the ferry. Get in line IMMEDIATELY and just wait. There will be some guys who look like maybe they work for the ferry, who approach your car and are kind of intimidating - automatically put you on guard thinking "scam". I though they worked for the ferry - but they really don't. They just give info for tips. Well here's your free info. Get in line. That's the most important thing. A ferry official will come shortly after the ferry arrives and hand out laminated passes to the cars. Only so many cars fit on the ferry. Once you get your pass - rush up to the window to buy your tickets. A car pass includes passenger, and then you also need to buy for other adults in your car.
Two adults and car was like $11.00. Get back to your car quickly cause they load pretty fast. If you want snacks/soda/beers, buy them before getting on the ferry as they are more expensive, though still cheap by American standards. Have your camera ready too cause you might see dolphins as we did, and the view is gorgeous. The ride to Paquera is about 1 1/2 hours. If you miss a ferry - you will have to wait about two hours for the next one. I would say get there one hour before the time slot you want - and better to go early in the day. Don't leave your car unlocked or unattended for long.”
The above advise was taken from another traveler and was very helpful. The variety of scam artists and beggars was interesting once we knew the ropes.
We did have the pleasure on meeting an ex-pat form Vermont, who gave us much info re: politics, economy and environmental info on CR. Many interesting characters, he warned us about the first 20 Kilometers from the ferry terminal toward Montezuma, may have been the worst 20 kilometers that we traveled.
Ylang Ylang, Montezuma
We arrived in Montezuma at Ylang Ylang Beach Resort - El Sano Banano Hotel, El Sano is in the center of the very little town reached down a very steep hill, the village is a ‘hippy’ enclave with Rastafarians and long hairs hanging, kicking around a futbol and selling their beads and pipes off tables along the sides of the road. At El Sano they load your luggage on a Land Rover and transport it down the beach to the lovely grounds of Ylang Ylang Beach Hotel. We hitched a ride in with our luggage, but would do the 10 minute beach walk when we choose to come or go until we check out. We spent our first night in Coco Joe’s beachfront hut, a stones throw to the Pacific, the sound of the ocean filled the air, while surrounded by the heavy rain forest views through the unscreened windows. The place is beautiful, but one must have a comfortable relationship with creepy crawly things, flying things (etc.) there are fans in each sleeping space. We got there right before sunset, the boys (all 3 of us) jumped into the raging sea, had a blast being blasted by the waves and pulled by the undertow for a short time, the water was warm, but dangerous. We then headed to the pool prior to our dinner. Dinner and Breakfast are included in the price. The boys slept in the loft with a spectacular ocean view, we slept on the main floor, indoor toilet and sink, with the request not to flush TP into toilet, but to put in basket (this would be a common request at the next couple of stops). The shower was outdoors under the stars with visiting lizards of many sizes and a praying mantis… you get the idea. I encourage you visit Ylang Ylang, it is a unique experience, just know that the bugs are part of the deal. Food was very good, our primary waiter was, George he was a riot, truly enjoyed what he does. He welcomed us to paradise and added to our stay. An entrée and non alcoholic drink is included with the cost of accommodations. We had great seafood (bar-b-cue shrimp, mixed seafood, chicken with tropical fruit sauce and Mahi Mahi were all delicious.) they will customize sauces with entrée, Try the fruit shake with ice cream for your included beverage.
The boys walked into town to check it out, they had a beer (legal drinking age is 18) and did a little brother bonding. In the morning we had breakfast, check out the French toast with fresh fruit, and the fruit plate with yogurt and homemade granola. Two of us split the above, it worked out just right. Coffee as always is GREAT. Appetizers, desserts and alcoholic beverages are charged extra.
FYI all restaurants in CR add a 10% service tax, it is our understanding that this goes to servers, typically locals do not tip above this, we did but be aware that you are already tipping 10%.
While we were eating dinner a huge frog hopped right through the restaurant, it was the size of a good sized cantaloupe, no kidding. Like all of the restaurants we ate in CR the buildings are all open air.
Beaches in this area are covered with crabs; hermit crabs, purple crabs w/ red legs and many others, they scattered as we walked along. When I woke around 5:30 am I went out to read and explore, I was treated to about six whiteface monkeys swinging from the trees, a large Coati Mundi exploring the treetops drinking from the ‘V’ formed where the palm leaves met the trees and bats flying everywhere, what a delightful early morning. We all would have a chance to see the Coati and later that afternoon about 10 monkeys would put on a great aerial show around the pool area, my wife had no regrets not seeing the bats.
We walked into town and explored. Had lunch at Playa de Artist Take left out of town and follow, it is on your left, if you get to bridge to waterfalls you went to far. Delightful spot, tables on the sand great homemade breads try the eggplant, tuna or chicken teriyaki sandwiches, they are all special.
That night we moved to Jungle King #4, a little less buggy and a little larger.
After breakfast we were transported with our luggage back to our car. On our way out of town to Mal Pais and Santa Teresa we stopped at a small elementary school we had scouted out the previous day to bring the gifts we had purchased before we left home. The teacher saw us heading toward the classroom upon our entering the class the students all stood up and greeted us with a Buenos Dias in unison. We handed out the books, paints, stickers, toothbrushes and games that we brought with us, saving some to pass out in the one other classroom. There were about 25 kids altogether with smiles a mile wide as we gave them gifts. I think that we got the better of the deal with all of their smiles filling our hearts.
The road to Santa Teresa was very bumpy and rocky (no surprise).
Our destination was Tropico Latino, but first we explored the road into Mal Pais. When you get to Frank’s Place Mal Pais is to the left and Santa Teresa to the right, directly in front of you is a small road going to the beach and to an area where some locals sell their wares on tables; again beads and pipes. Surfers rule in these parts; bikes scooters and ATVs all transport surfboards in some manner. Roads are very narrow and very bumpy.
Here is some more.
Part 2.
Pulled up to Ferry terminal where we were met by ‘Raoul the charmer’ a scam man trying to get $$ from us for providing no service at all. I actually read him the following and told him he is getting famous on line. I include a quote from a past post that we had printed and had it with us,
“. Once there, you will see a car line for the ferry. Get in line IMMEDIATELY and just wait. There will be some guys who look like maybe they work for the ferry, who approach your car and are kind of intimidating - automatically put you on guard thinking "scam". I though they worked for the ferry - but they really don't. They just give info for tips. Well here's your free info. Get in line. That's the most important thing. A ferry official will come shortly after the ferry arrives and hand out laminated passes to the cars. Only so many cars fit on the ferry. Once you get your pass - rush up to the window to buy your tickets. A car pass includes passenger, and then you also need to buy for other adults in your car.
Two adults and car was like $11.00. Get back to your car quickly cause they load pretty fast. If you want snacks/soda/beers, buy them before getting on the ferry as they are more expensive, though still cheap by American standards. Have your camera ready too cause you might see dolphins as we did, and the view is gorgeous. The ride to Paquera is about 1 1/2 hours. If you miss a ferry - you will have to wait about two hours for the next one. I would say get there one hour before the time slot you want - and better to go early in the day. Don't leave your car unlocked or unattended for long.”
The above advise was taken from another traveler and was very helpful. The variety of scam artists and beggars was interesting once we knew the ropes.
We did have the pleasure on meeting an ex-pat form Vermont, who gave us much info re: politics, economy and environmental info on CR. Many interesting characters, he warned us about the first 20 Kilometers from the ferry terminal toward Montezuma, may have been the worst 20 kilometers that we traveled.
Ylang Ylang, Montezuma
We arrived in Montezuma at Ylang Ylang Beach Resort - El Sano Banano Hotel, El Sano is in the center of the very little town reached down a very steep hill, the village is a ‘hippy’ enclave with Rastafarians and long hairs hanging, kicking around a futbol and selling their beads and pipes off tables along the sides of the road. At El Sano they load your luggage on a Land Rover and transport it down the beach to the lovely grounds of Ylang Ylang Beach Hotel. We hitched a ride in with our luggage, but would do the 10 minute beach walk when we choose to come or go until we check out. We spent our first night in Coco Joe’s beachfront hut, a stones throw to the Pacific, the sound of the ocean filled the air, while surrounded by the heavy rain forest views through the unscreened windows. The place is beautiful, but one must have a comfortable relationship with creepy crawly things, flying things (etc.) there are fans in each sleeping space. We got there right before sunset, the boys (all 3 of us) jumped into the raging sea, had a blast being blasted by the waves and pulled by the undertow for a short time, the water was warm, but dangerous. We then headed to the pool prior to our dinner. Dinner and Breakfast are included in the price. The boys slept in the loft with a spectacular ocean view, we slept on the main floor, indoor toilet and sink, with the request not to flush TP into toilet, but to put in basket (this would be a common request at the next couple of stops). The shower was outdoors under the stars with visiting lizards of many sizes and a praying mantis… you get the idea. I encourage you visit Ylang Ylang, it is a unique experience, just know that the bugs are part of the deal. Food was very good, our primary waiter was, George he was a riot, truly enjoyed what he does. He welcomed us to paradise and added to our stay. An entrée and non alcoholic drink is included with the cost of accommodations. We had great seafood (bar-b-cue shrimp, mixed seafood, chicken with tropical fruit sauce and Mahi Mahi were all delicious.) they will customize sauces with entrée, Try the fruit shake with ice cream for your included beverage.
The boys walked into town to check it out, they had a beer (legal drinking age is 18) and did a little brother bonding. In the morning we had breakfast, check out the French toast with fresh fruit, and the fruit plate with yogurt and homemade granola. Two of us split the above, it worked out just right. Coffee as always is GREAT. Appetizers, desserts and alcoholic beverages are charged extra.
FYI all restaurants in CR add a 10% service tax, it is our understanding that this goes to servers, typically locals do not tip above this, we did but be aware that you are already tipping 10%.
While we were eating dinner a huge frog hopped right through the restaurant, it was the size of a good sized cantaloupe, no kidding. Like all of the restaurants we ate in CR the buildings are all open air.
Beaches in this area are covered with crabs; hermit crabs, purple crabs w/ red legs and many others, they scattered as we walked along. When I woke around 5:30 am I went out to read and explore, I was treated to about six whiteface monkeys swinging from the trees, a large Coati Mundi exploring the treetops drinking from the ‘V’ formed where the palm leaves met the trees and bats flying everywhere, what a delightful early morning. We all would have a chance to see the Coati and later that afternoon about 10 monkeys would put on a great aerial show around the pool area, my wife had no regrets not seeing the bats.
We walked into town and explored. Had lunch at Playa de Artist Take left out of town and follow, it is on your left, if you get to bridge to waterfalls you went to far. Delightful spot, tables on the sand great homemade breads try the eggplant, tuna or chicken teriyaki sandwiches, they are all special.
That night we moved to Jungle King #4, a little less buggy and a little larger.
After breakfast we were transported with our luggage back to our car. On our way out of town to Mal Pais and Santa Teresa we stopped at a small elementary school we had scouted out the previous day to bring the gifts we had purchased before we left home. The teacher saw us heading toward the classroom upon our entering the class the students all stood up and greeted us with a Buenos Dias in unison. We handed out the books, paints, stickers, toothbrushes and games that we brought with us, saving some to pass out in the one other classroom. There were about 25 kids altogether with smiles a mile wide as we gave them gifts. I think that we got the better of the deal with all of their smiles filling our hearts.
The road to Santa Teresa was very bumpy and rocky (no surprise).
Our destination was Tropico Latino, but first we explored the road into Mal Pais. When you get to Frank’s Place Mal Pais is to the left and Santa Teresa to the right, directly in front of you is a small road going to the beach and to an area where some locals sell their wares on tables; again beads and pipes. Surfers rule in these parts; bikes scooters and ATVs all transport surfboards in some manner. Roads are very narrow and very bumpy.
Jun 26th, 2006, 10:01 AM
#5
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here are photos from our trip. Did not have camera at Rio Celeste, but it is amazing. http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=452023
15/a=48645178_48645178/t_=48645178
15/a=48645178_48645178/t_=48645178
Jun 26th, 2006, 03:49 PM
#7
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi again, Please find part 3...
Hopefully part 4 in the next day or 2 will complete the report. Thanks for your patience.
Part 3, Santa Teresa, Tropico Latino, drive up Nicoysa Penninsula
After rattling down the road through Mal Pais, finding Mary’s restaurant (on left almost to end of road) where we would end up eating dinner, turn around and do it again to get to Tropico Latino.
Arrived and were given a garden room, room had two queens and a double, strong A/C an interesting shower stall with combined stone and tile floor and a lock box. The room was comfortable, a little dark but had warmth to it.
It was a short trail from our room to the pool and then the beachfront. Pool area has great view of the ocean and fronting the beach are a bunch of comfortable wooden chairs, chaise lounges and hammocks; really comfortable space to read and watch sunset. We went across the main road where we had lunch at Zulu’s (I think that is it’s name, also an internet café with very slow computers – there is another internet café the kids found further up the same street toward Frank’s Place), owned by surfers form Israel we had typical Israeli food (including falafel) and typical CR food. It was good, reasonably priced and quick, the world cup was on the television as it seemed to be wherever a TV was on. We checked out a couple of beaches and rented boogie boards for the boys. No one was interested in learning to surf, but had someone been this would be the place. The water at the beach at the resort was a little rocky, tough on the feet. We stayed in for a while but then decided to relax and enjoy the scenery. Spent most of the afternoon reading enjoyed a magnificent sun set.
At this point of the trip our laundry of many wet activities and sweat was very rank, having stored all of our dirty clothes together in a trash bag (we brought from home) we had to find laundry. Asked the manager at the resort and he told us he would get a laundry service that would pick up now and drop off our laundry tomorrow morning, we figured that this made sense would get whatever was in the car and bring it to him, he was only going to be there for 20 minutes more (6:30). We went to the lock box to get our key and could not get it open, it was jammed, he came in and with the help of some tools managed to open it, but it would need to be repaired tomorrow am, we gave him our valuables to lock in safe in office. Gathered our laundry (there was a lot), arranged with him to set up beach horseback riding in morning. Up until now on the trip we had done our own planning through research, we got lazy with the laundry and the horseback riding, are sure that we could have paid less if we arranged ourselves, but it was okay. Took care of all of our business and headed off to Mary’s for dinner
Mary’s Restaurant is basically pizza and Mexican, it was good attracts a big crowd. Went back boys made phone calls and did the other kind of surfing at an internet café, I was enjoying staying fully unplugged, it had been many years without being plugged in to my cell or laptop… this was a treat for me… I’ll deal with with business issues when I get back!!!
Good sleep although after I was up (reading on the beach and watching lizards) apparently the a/c made some funky noises and never quite cooled like it had. That morning we had breakfast at the hotel, it was fine and convenient prior to our horseback ride. The guide met us on the beach with our horses, he spoke no English so communication was sparse. The horses didn’t seem mistreated, but they weren’t the happiest horses in the country. It was very hot on the beach, we
Are all large people and they were rather small horses, we all felt a little badly for the horses, but took it easy down the beach, which was a beautiful ride. Got back and our laundry wasn’t back yet, we were considering leaving because the beaches were not great swimming beaches and we had a lot more we wanted to see, but the delay of the laundry kind of made our decision for us. We went to lunch at on our way to Playa Hermosa (Santa Teresa) at Rancho Sancho on the right after taking a left out of TL. Fun place, good food, my son recognized a young woman he had hung with for a little while back at Tabacon, she was with her two surfer friends … this was cool… they recommended Point Break Beach as a good swimming and boogie board spot.
We were still going to go to Playa Hermosa, but just after passing Point Break a truck was blocking the road and gave no indication that it would be moving soon, so figured Point Break it is. It was a good beach for boogie boarding and swimming except the water was brown… a little yucky. After a while the boys got sufficiently grossed out so it was back to TL to hang read (etc)
We decided that we had better get some $$$ since TL doesn’t take charge cards, and we were real close with cash but to our dismay the ATM at Frank’s Place was either broken or out of order. We did have some travelers checks left, went to office and they would accept those, so we were good to go. Our laundry was back and our lock box repaired. Life was good.
One other detail re: Tropico Latino, they offer massages right in a hut on the beach, I watched Maria (I think is her name) give a Thai deep tissue massage the previous day (she even walked on the guys back) it looked heavenly, I had planned to get one but alas not enough cash. Get or bring planty of cash to Mal Pais and Santa Teresa many of the restaurants don’t take plastic either.
Watched sunset from the same spot on the beach… ahhhhh!
Dinner in Santa Teresa on the recommendation of one of the surfers staying at TL.
A place called Fresco opens around 7-7:30, it seems like many of the businesses base their flexible hours on the surf conditions. This spot is right across from the town soccer field, where a game was starting just as we took our seats. This restaurant is newly opened by some folks who moved to CR from N Carolina. It was very good and surprisingly affordable, gourmet type food menu changes daily. Recommended.
Got back packed and ready for a long day of driving up through the Nicoya Peninsula, were trying to decide whether to go through Rio Frio or to retrace our steps to Paquera. Stopped at ATM (which was broken) showed a couple of locals by their car the map and asked if it would be okay to go through Rio Frio, even though we didn’t speak the same language they were very clear that we should go through Paquera. So off we go on the worst 20 kilometers of the trip, from Paquera we head north towards Nicoya and Santa Cruz, where we will check out the pottery artisan village of Guantil and eventually get to our final destination just north of Liberia at Posada El Encurentro. The ride got worse after the 20 worst kilometers, now there were bumps on top of the bumps, and rocks everywhere else,
Hopefully part 4 in the next day or 2 will complete the report. Thanks for your patience.
Part 3, Santa Teresa, Tropico Latino, drive up Nicoysa Penninsula
After rattling down the road through Mal Pais, finding Mary’s restaurant (on left almost to end of road) where we would end up eating dinner, turn around and do it again to get to Tropico Latino.
Arrived and were given a garden room, room had two queens and a double, strong A/C an interesting shower stall with combined stone and tile floor and a lock box. The room was comfortable, a little dark but had warmth to it.
It was a short trail from our room to the pool and then the beachfront. Pool area has great view of the ocean and fronting the beach are a bunch of comfortable wooden chairs, chaise lounges and hammocks; really comfortable space to read and watch sunset. We went across the main road where we had lunch at Zulu’s (I think that is it’s name, also an internet café with very slow computers – there is another internet café the kids found further up the same street toward Frank’s Place), owned by surfers form Israel we had typical Israeli food (including falafel) and typical CR food. It was good, reasonably priced and quick, the world cup was on the television as it seemed to be wherever a TV was on. We checked out a couple of beaches and rented boogie boards for the boys. No one was interested in learning to surf, but had someone been this would be the place. The water at the beach at the resort was a little rocky, tough on the feet. We stayed in for a while but then decided to relax and enjoy the scenery. Spent most of the afternoon reading enjoyed a magnificent sun set.
At this point of the trip our laundry of many wet activities and sweat was very rank, having stored all of our dirty clothes together in a trash bag (we brought from home) we had to find laundry. Asked the manager at the resort and he told us he would get a laundry service that would pick up now and drop off our laundry tomorrow morning, we figured that this made sense would get whatever was in the car and bring it to him, he was only going to be there for 20 minutes more (6:30). We went to the lock box to get our key and could not get it open, it was jammed, he came in and with the help of some tools managed to open it, but it would need to be repaired tomorrow am, we gave him our valuables to lock in safe in office. Gathered our laundry (there was a lot), arranged with him to set up beach horseback riding in morning. Up until now on the trip we had done our own planning through research, we got lazy with the laundry and the horseback riding, are sure that we could have paid less if we arranged ourselves, but it was okay. Took care of all of our business and headed off to Mary’s for dinner
Mary’s Restaurant is basically pizza and Mexican, it was good attracts a big crowd. Went back boys made phone calls and did the other kind of surfing at an internet café, I was enjoying staying fully unplugged, it had been many years without being plugged in to my cell or laptop… this was a treat for me… I’ll deal with with business issues when I get back!!!
Good sleep although after I was up (reading on the beach and watching lizards) apparently the a/c made some funky noises and never quite cooled like it had. That morning we had breakfast at the hotel, it was fine and convenient prior to our horseback ride. The guide met us on the beach with our horses, he spoke no English so communication was sparse. The horses didn’t seem mistreated, but they weren’t the happiest horses in the country. It was very hot on the beach, we
Are all large people and they were rather small horses, we all felt a little badly for the horses, but took it easy down the beach, which was a beautiful ride. Got back and our laundry wasn’t back yet, we were considering leaving because the beaches were not great swimming beaches and we had a lot more we wanted to see, but the delay of the laundry kind of made our decision for us. We went to lunch at on our way to Playa Hermosa (Santa Teresa) at Rancho Sancho on the right after taking a left out of TL. Fun place, good food, my son recognized a young woman he had hung with for a little while back at Tabacon, she was with her two surfer friends … this was cool… they recommended Point Break Beach as a good swimming and boogie board spot.
We were still going to go to Playa Hermosa, but just after passing Point Break a truck was blocking the road and gave no indication that it would be moving soon, so figured Point Break it is. It was a good beach for boogie boarding and swimming except the water was brown… a little yucky. After a while the boys got sufficiently grossed out so it was back to TL to hang read (etc)
We decided that we had better get some $$$ since TL doesn’t take charge cards, and we were real close with cash but to our dismay the ATM at Frank’s Place was either broken or out of order. We did have some travelers checks left, went to office and they would accept those, so we were good to go. Our laundry was back and our lock box repaired. Life was good.
One other detail re: Tropico Latino, they offer massages right in a hut on the beach, I watched Maria (I think is her name) give a Thai deep tissue massage the previous day (she even walked on the guys back) it looked heavenly, I had planned to get one but alas not enough cash. Get or bring planty of cash to Mal Pais and Santa Teresa many of the restaurants don’t take plastic either.
Watched sunset from the same spot on the beach… ahhhhh!
Dinner in Santa Teresa on the recommendation of one of the surfers staying at TL.
A place called Fresco opens around 7-7:30, it seems like many of the businesses base their flexible hours on the surf conditions. This spot is right across from the town soccer field, where a game was starting just as we took our seats. This restaurant is newly opened by some folks who moved to CR from N Carolina. It was very good and surprisingly affordable, gourmet type food menu changes daily. Recommended.
Got back packed and ready for a long day of driving up through the Nicoya Peninsula, were trying to decide whether to go through Rio Frio or to retrace our steps to Paquera. Stopped at ATM (which was broken) showed a couple of locals by their car the map and asked if it would be okay to go through Rio Frio, even though we didn’t speak the same language they were very clear that we should go through Paquera. So off we go on the worst 20 kilometers of the trip, from Paquera we head north towards Nicoya and Santa Cruz, where we will check out the pottery artisan village of Guantil and eventually get to our final destination just north of Liberia at Posada El Encurentro. The ride got worse after the 20 worst kilometers, now there were bumps on top of the bumps, and rocks everywhere else,
Jun 27th, 2006, 09:53 AM
#9
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 305
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I drove that stretch of road between Naranjo and Paquera and fount it to be one of the WORST in Costa Rica. We drove it in the rain and I think it tool about 2 hours just to drive the 20km.
Cant wait for part 4!!!
Cant wait for part 4!!!
Jun 27th, 2006, 11:10 AM
#11
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sean420, as much as I enjoy driving I was ready to get of of that road by the time we hit Naranjo. Naranjo is where we had the worst food in CR. It was a little place just up from the ferry on the left on hill... I would skip eating there.
Suzie2, would have loved to see that show if you hear of it being repeated let me know, I will watch for it. La Carolina brings a smile to my face every time I think of it.
Al
Suzie2, would have loved to see that show if you hear of it being repeated let me know, I will watch for it. La Carolina brings a smile to my face every time I think of it.
Al
Jun 27th, 2006, 06:06 PM
#12
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm about to leave on a trip with a very similar itinerary. I have a question about the route you took from Monteverde to Montezuma. Did you consider taking the Friendship Bridge over the Gulf of Nicoya and heading south along the east side of the peninsula? Why did you take the ferry instead?
Jun 28th, 2006, 03:02 AM
#13
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Lily, we went from Arenal to Montezuma, we were not in Monteverde, next time maybe. The roads on the east side of the penninsula are rough, that's how we went to Rincon, but I don't know anything about the Friendship Bridge, we never considered it. Sorry I couldn't be more help.
Jun 28th, 2006, 12:30 PM
#14
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here is the conclusion of our trip. It was more than we expected.
Part 4 Rincon De La Viejo area
Got gas and stopped in a soda for breakfast, there was a little girl learning her a,b,c’s on a chalkboard. The food was the first we had had in the country that was gross. My 18 year old ordered a burger and it won the, ‘worst burger of my life’ contest hands down, oh well… at least it was cheap.
Stopped in ATM in Nicoya, fought off the ‘guarito’ beggars as I tried to withdraw colones my wife sent my 20 year old out as my bodyguard, this is the first time of my life I had had a body guard. Headed up to Santa Cruz and Guaitil pottery village.
At Guaitil we were greeted by shop keepers with small spaces and lots of pottery some of them were working on their wares. Willy, gave us a demonstration of how they make the pottery, he has one of the larger shops as well as a website http://www.artesaniaswillysguaitil.com/
We bought a few gifts and a small piece for ourselves from other artisans with signed pieces.
Next stop was a highlight Copatortilla in Santa Cruz. This is a tortilla factory with about 8 pots of different stews, beans, rice etc. Tortillas are baked on what looked like a stucco oven with indentations for the dough to make the tortillas. All of the women staff wear old fashioned aprons and are anxious to fill your plate with food. There are long tables to eat at, it is a great cultural experience. Full bellies and off to our last leg of the trip.
Rincon De La Viejo –
We were very surprised how close to Liberia this is. Twenty minutes from the airport to our lodging, but worlds away. Right after airport saw a familiar sight a TCBY shop decided we were all hot and were looking for our own ‘typical’ food ordered beverages turned out that she made it with no sugar no fat yogurt, we didn’t request that… I guess she thought that’s what we should eat. Drove past our B & B to check out Hacienda Guachipelin, were surprised to find a guarded gate on the road, had to explain that we just wanted to look, he wrote our license plate number and off we drove. Got there and went in to look around and get info on their adventure options.
We were not very impressed, pool looked over crowded and clerk who gave us info seemed to have some attitude (1st time the entire trip we ran into customer service copping an attitude, wish we could say that about service in the states… editorial comment). We left without a warm and fuzzy feeling this ended up being our only experience there in that we found other places to do our thing. This is not meant to condemn them, our experience was almost non existent and many people have had good experiences. We had a GREAT experience and it did not include Guachipelin.
We went back down the bumpy road (if you only drive in this area you will think the roads are atrocious, to us they were great after the peninsula roads). We entered the property at Posada El Encurentro B & B right after the innkeepers Luis and Sharon… they are wonderful hosts.
Upon our arrival they showed us our option of accommodations and then started talking about whether we wanted dinner when Javier (Sharon’s brother in law & our waiter, pool cleaner, gardener… a family operation) came in to tell us that our Pathfinder had a flat tire. We called Dollar who’s main office was only about 20 – 25 minutes away, we were not happy with their response; to change tire, get it repaired and when we turn in car they would reimburse us. Called back and Luis spoke to a manager (meanwhile with his help we put the spare on), he insisted that they send someone to deal with our tire, told them that other rental companies that he deals with do a much better job of customer service… he won they sent a guy to pick up our tire and brought back the wheel with a brand new tire which he installed… Thanks Luis. Sharon loves to cook and is very animated both she and Luis have perpetual smiles. While we were changing the tire Sharon brought out a very refreshing frozen fruit drink. This is the beginning of their hospitality. The food was great, we had Sharon cook for us each evening and breakfast was included. You have your choice of beef, chicken, pork fish, pasta with a variety of sauces. She made dinner on request and we prearranged the time to eat, although she was very flexible.
The key feature of their property is the pool patio. The pool is small and unremarkable, it is cleaned daily, but the patio around it has a roofed area on the edge of the patio at the edge of the canyon. To the north is the volcano and hills near Buena Vista & Borenquin, laid out in front of us was a magnificent canyon with breathtaking sunsets and early morning bird activity like I had never seen. Hundreds of bright green parakeets with red wings would fly toward the volcano in the morning and back in out direction at dusk. There were wild donkeys living in the canyon, that I heard in the morning and owls on the railings at night. It was very cool. It also was fairly priced, the accommodations we chose were $105/night including full breakfast for 4 of us. It was a casita with two areas; one with two single beds and the other area larger with three single beds, large and comfortable bathroom they provided us with multiple fans and it did cool down a little at night, sleeping was comfortable. They spoke of plans of building more casitas with a/c and varied bedding options. They also have a casita with separate spaces with a connecting door if wanted. At this point in time it sounded like the most they could accommodate at this time would be about 15 guests.
Other than the pool and view there are no activities on sight, but we followed them to a local swimming hole / waterfalls and helped us with directions to areas where activities were available.
The first day we went to Buena Vista Lodge, for their Mega Tour. It was really fun and a great value at $80, (the young man we were getting info from wasn’t sure they would give us the Mega Tour deal that it is usually for tour operators, we told them we would promote it on line and requested the deal- he checked with his manager and they agreed to allow us the tour) it included; canopy tour a unique, fast and fun water slide (not for the weak of spirit), buffet typical lunch and a highlight of a horseback ride (or tractor) to the mud baths.
The canopy tour was fun (but the boys did Borenquin 15 minutes down the road the next day and said it blows Buena Vista’s away). On our walk into the first platform we saw a lot of howler monkeys swinging through the canopy, we would see many up here as well as Coatis’, the instruction was good and the canopy tour great fun, if you are not seeking the largest adrenaline rush this is probably the one for you. Us three boys did the slide multiple times it is really fun, the best description would be like a bobsled track filled with water. There is a chamber at the top that closes with a gate, you get in with a tube around your waste and a helmet on your head in front of the gate, when the chamber is filled with cool water from a stream, the attendant opens the gate and a flood of water zips you down the 1300’ slide. There are turns with banks and built in bumps, you maintain serious speed until you go through a tunnel and are shot out into a pool. It is fast and fun. Then off to lunch, which was good then was the highlight for us. We mounted our horses with our Spanish speaking guide and off we went for a spirited ride into the woods, up and down steep hills, through narrow trails and through a stream multiple times. The horses seemed in good spirits and seemed like they live a good life. My older son and I most enjoyed the ride, my wife didn’t love the ride, she decided to take the trailer cart back, our youngest son decided to join mom on the tractor.
At the mud baths, you are in the middle of deep forests; 1st step is the natural steam room, the steam is generated from the volcano mud and comes through the floor contained by the stone structure… so cool!... I mean hot…, next is slathering warm to hot volcanic mud all over your body, while doing this attendants but leaf wreaths on the women and leaf ‘horns’ on the men. There is a platform overlooking the stream where you hang out while the mud dries. When dry there are showers of stream water to wash off the mud, then it’s into the pools of varied temperatures, from cold to warm to real warm. All of the pools are made of stone of different sizes it truly is a unique experience. We loved it. As the day was winding down two of us rode back the others took the trailer. The horses were even more responsive we broke into cantering a couple of times, trotted most of the way… what fun.
Got back to the reception area, they have a great gift shop with fair prices and all of the wood, pottery and other crafts made in CR. I snuck off to a reptile and snake building displaying live snakes and reptiles that are found in the area. It was interesting to see.
Our day was already full, but there was more… we went by Borenquin Lodge to see what they have to offer. It is the most upscale resort in the area. They have an under promoted canopy tour. The boys decided that they might like to try that tomorrow, we’ll see. On our way down the mountain (this area is about 45 minutes drive from our accommodations) we saw a crowd in the road, we were fortunate enough to come across a local rodeo in a small arena. We parked and got a chance to hang with the locals watching a calf roping exhibition. All of the spectators were very excited, they sold plates of pinto de Gallo in the stands. Our empathy was for the calves who were getting kicked, hit roped and tied we realized it is a different culture than our north east USA culture. The sun was setting and we headed back for dinner at Luis and Sharon’s. Laid on the chaise lounges after dinner admiring the sky FULL of stars, and realizing how lucky we were to have each other and to be able to share as a family in these experiences.
Last full day… Oh No!!! In the morning we do head off to Borenquin, they charge $40 for the boys to do the canopy tour. They wanted to charge us $45 to wait by the pool for them. We negotiated staying for lunch, and being able to use the pool. The lunch was $20 a bit more than we wanted to pay, but it turned out to be a very relaxing and enjoyable spot. The zip lines here were over canyons and much, much longer than the Buena vista lines. The longest one at Borenquin was 7 times longer than Buena Vistas and hundreds of feet deeper over the canyon. My wife and I sat at the pool, read swam and had a very relaxing time. We saw monkeys both white face and howler and some Toucans flying around and many many lizards. The mud baths here were not to our liking, the mud was cool, had no texture (the one’s at Buena Vista seemed to have natural pumice in the mud) the pools were small round and not very inviting and it was right next to the regular pool, not deep in the forest.
Our recommendation for the best adventure day in the area would be to do Borenquin canopy tour and go a la carte at Buena vista for the slide, lunch, mud baths and gift shop. If high adventure is not your goal, but simply having the experience, or if you have dome zip lines in Monteverde, Arenal or other places in CR just go for the slide and mud baths. You get the idea. We got back to the Posada www.posadaencu.com had a great dinner. Our boys played Uno with Luis & Sharon’s delightful 7 year old son and 3 year old daughter. We had a really nice family night, breakfast in the morning my wife and one son took one last swim and the 3 year old joined them.
We enjoyed a delightful time and give a strong recommendation for this Posada. Their website by the way is still from prior German owners they are working on their new web site.
Off to the very low key Liberia airport, leaving with memories of sharing adventures with our sons, and meeting wonderful people being allowed to experience a touch of their lovely people and awesome diverse countryside.
Thanks for letting me share our experiences.
Pura Vida
Part 4 Rincon De La Viejo area
Got gas and stopped in a soda for breakfast, there was a little girl learning her a,b,c’s on a chalkboard. The food was the first we had had in the country that was gross. My 18 year old ordered a burger and it won the, ‘worst burger of my life’ contest hands down, oh well… at least it was cheap.
Stopped in ATM in Nicoya, fought off the ‘guarito’ beggars as I tried to withdraw colones my wife sent my 20 year old out as my bodyguard, this is the first time of my life I had had a body guard. Headed up to Santa Cruz and Guaitil pottery village.
At Guaitil we were greeted by shop keepers with small spaces and lots of pottery some of them were working on their wares. Willy, gave us a demonstration of how they make the pottery, he has one of the larger shops as well as a website http://www.artesaniaswillysguaitil.com/
We bought a few gifts and a small piece for ourselves from other artisans with signed pieces.
Next stop was a highlight Copatortilla in Santa Cruz. This is a tortilla factory with about 8 pots of different stews, beans, rice etc. Tortillas are baked on what looked like a stucco oven with indentations for the dough to make the tortillas. All of the women staff wear old fashioned aprons and are anxious to fill your plate with food. There are long tables to eat at, it is a great cultural experience. Full bellies and off to our last leg of the trip.
Rincon De La Viejo –
We were very surprised how close to Liberia this is. Twenty minutes from the airport to our lodging, but worlds away. Right after airport saw a familiar sight a TCBY shop decided we were all hot and were looking for our own ‘typical’ food ordered beverages turned out that she made it with no sugar no fat yogurt, we didn’t request that… I guess she thought that’s what we should eat. Drove past our B & B to check out Hacienda Guachipelin, were surprised to find a guarded gate on the road, had to explain that we just wanted to look, he wrote our license plate number and off we drove. Got there and went in to look around and get info on their adventure options.
We were not very impressed, pool looked over crowded and clerk who gave us info seemed to have some attitude (1st time the entire trip we ran into customer service copping an attitude, wish we could say that about service in the states… editorial comment). We left without a warm and fuzzy feeling this ended up being our only experience there in that we found other places to do our thing. This is not meant to condemn them, our experience was almost non existent and many people have had good experiences. We had a GREAT experience and it did not include Guachipelin.
We went back down the bumpy road (if you only drive in this area you will think the roads are atrocious, to us they were great after the peninsula roads). We entered the property at Posada El Encurentro B & B right after the innkeepers Luis and Sharon… they are wonderful hosts.
Upon our arrival they showed us our option of accommodations and then started talking about whether we wanted dinner when Javier (Sharon’s brother in law & our waiter, pool cleaner, gardener… a family operation) came in to tell us that our Pathfinder had a flat tire. We called Dollar who’s main office was only about 20 – 25 minutes away, we were not happy with their response; to change tire, get it repaired and when we turn in car they would reimburse us. Called back and Luis spoke to a manager (meanwhile with his help we put the spare on), he insisted that they send someone to deal with our tire, told them that other rental companies that he deals with do a much better job of customer service… he won they sent a guy to pick up our tire and brought back the wheel with a brand new tire which he installed… Thanks Luis. Sharon loves to cook and is very animated both she and Luis have perpetual smiles. While we were changing the tire Sharon brought out a very refreshing frozen fruit drink. This is the beginning of their hospitality. The food was great, we had Sharon cook for us each evening and breakfast was included. You have your choice of beef, chicken, pork fish, pasta with a variety of sauces. She made dinner on request and we prearranged the time to eat, although she was very flexible.
The key feature of their property is the pool patio. The pool is small and unremarkable, it is cleaned daily, but the patio around it has a roofed area on the edge of the patio at the edge of the canyon. To the north is the volcano and hills near Buena Vista & Borenquin, laid out in front of us was a magnificent canyon with breathtaking sunsets and early morning bird activity like I had never seen. Hundreds of bright green parakeets with red wings would fly toward the volcano in the morning and back in out direction at dusk. There were wild donkeys living in the canyon, that I heard in the morning and owls on the railings at night. It was very cool. It also was fairly priced, the accommodations we chose were $105/night including full breakfast for 4 of us. It was a casita with two areas; one with two single beds and the other area larger with three single beds, large and comfortable bathroom they provided us with multiple fans and it did cool down a little at night, sleeping was comfortable. They spoke of plans of building more casitas with a/c and varied bedding options. They also have a casita with separate spaces with a connecting door if wanted. At this point in time it sounded like the most they could accommodate at this time would be about 15 guests.
Other than the pool and view there are no activities on sight, but we followed them to a local swimming hole / waterfalls and helped us with directions to areas where activities were available.
The first day we went to Buena Vista Lodge, for their Mega Tour. It was really fun and a great value at $80, (the young man we were getting info from wasn’t sure they would give us the Mega Tour deal that it is usually for tour operators, we told them we would promote it on line and requested the deal- he checked with his manager and they agreed to allow us the tour) it included; canopy tour a unique, fast and fun water slide (not for the weak of spirit), buffet typical lunch and a highlight of a horseback ride (or tractor) to the mud baths.
The canopy tour was fun (but the boys did Borenquin 15 minutes down the road the next day and said it blows Buena Vista’s away). On our walk into the first platform we saw a lot of howler monkeys swinging through the canopy, we would see many up here as well as Coatis’, the instruction was good and the canopy tour great fun, if you are not seeking the largest adrenaline rush this is probably the one for you. Us three boys did the slide multiple times it is really fun, the best description would be like a bobsled track filled with water. There is a chamber at the top that closes with a gate, you get in with a tube around your waste and a helmet on your head in front of the gate, when the chamber is filled with cool water from a stream, the attendant opens the gate and a flood of water zips you down the 1300’ slide. There are turns with banks and built in bumps, you maintain serious speed until you go through a tunnel and are shot out into a pool. It is fast and fun. Then off to lunch, which was good then was the highlight for us. We mounted our horses with our Spanish speaking guide and off we went for a spirited ride into the woods, up and down steep hills, through narrow trails and through a stream multiple times. The horses seemed in good spirits and seemed like they live a good life. My older son and I most enjoyed the ride, my wife didn’t love the ride, she decided to take the trailer cart back, our youngest son decided to join mom on the tractor.
At the mud baths, you are in the middle of deep forests; 1st step is the natural steam room, the steam is generated from the volcano mud and comes through the floor contained by the stone structure… so cool!... I mean hot…, next is slathering warm to hot volcanic mud all over your body, while doing this attendants but leaf wreaths on the women and leaf ‘horns’ on the men. There is a platform overlooking the stream where you hang out while the mud dries. When dry there are showers of stream water to wash off the mud, then it’s into the pools of varied temperatures, from cold to warm to real warm. All of the pools are made of stone of different sizes it truly is a unique experience. We loved it. As the day was winding down two of us rode back the others took the trailer. The horses were even more responsive we broke into cantering a couple of times, trotted most of the way… what fun.
Got back to the reception area, they have a great gift shop with fair prices and all of the wood, pottery and other crafts made in CR. I snuck off to a reptile and snake building displaying live snakes and reptiles that are found in the area. It was interesting to see.
Our day was already full, but there was more… we went by Borenquin Lodge to see what they have to offer. It is the most upscale resort in the area. They have an under promoted canopy tour. The boys decided that they might like to try that tomorrow, we’ll see. On our way down the mountain (this area is about 45 minutes drive from our accommodations) we saw a crowd in the road, we were fortunate enough to come across a local rodeo in a small arena. We parked and got a chance to hang with the locals watching a calf roping exhibition. All of the spectators were very excited, they sold plates of pinto de Gallo in the stands. Our empathy was for the calves who were getting kicked, hit roped and tied we realized it is a different culture than our north east USA culture. The sun was setting and we headed back for dinner at Luis and Sharon’s. Laid on the chaise lounges after dinner admiring the sky FULL of stars, and realizing how lucky we were to have each other and to be able to share as a family in these experiences.
Last full day… Oh No!!! In the morning we do head off to Borenquin, they charge $40 for the boys to do the canopy tour. They wanted to charge us $45 to wait by the pool for them. We negotiated staying for lunch, and being able to use the pool. The lunch was $20 a bit more than we wanted to pay, but it turned out to be a very relaxing and enjoyable spot. The zip lines here were over canyons and much, much longer than the Buena vista lines. The longest one at Borenquin was 7 times longer than Buena Vistas and hundreds of feet deeper over the canyon. My wife and I sat at the pool, read swam and had a very relaxing time. We saw monkeys both white face and howler and some Toucans flying around and many many lizards. The mud baths here were not to our liking, the mud was cool, had no texture (the one’s at Buena Vista seemed to have natural pumice in the mud) the pools were small round and not very inviting and it was right next to the regular pool, not deep in the forest.
Our recommendation for the best adventure day in the area would be to do Borenquin canopy tour and go a la carte at Buena vista for the slide, lunch, mud baths and gift shop. If high adventure is not your goal, but simply having the experience, or if you have dome zip lines in Monteverde, Arenal or other places in CR just go for the slide and mud baths. You get the idea. We got back to the Posada www.posadaencu.com had a great dinner. Our boys played Uno with Luis & Sharon’s delightful 7 year old son and 3 year old daughter. We had a really nice family night, breakfast in the morning my wife and one son took one last swim and the 3 year old joined them.
We enjoyed a delightful time and give a strong recommendation for this Posada. Their website by the way is still from prior German owners they are working on their new web site.
Off to the very low key Liberia airport, leaving with memories of sharing adventures with our sons, and meeting wonderful people being allowed to experience a touch of their lovely people and awesome diverse countryside.
Thanks for letting me share our experiences.
Pura Vida
Thread
Original Poster
Forum
Replies
Last Post
adamfam
Mexico & Central America
18
Aug 15th, 2006 07:12 AM
LA_FadeAway
Mexico & Central America
38
Sep 8th, 2004 07:50 AM
