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We're alive! Costa RicaTrip Report: June 2005: Monkeys, insects, and rain...(Manuel Antonio, Arenal, Monteverde, San Pablo ) Ask me anything!

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We're alive! Costa RicaTrip Report: June 2005: Monkeys, insects, and rain...(Manuel Antonio, Arenal, Monteverde, San Pablo ) Ask me anything!

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Old Jul 6th, 2005, 11:23 AM
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Melissa..what did your family wear for footwear on the muddy hikes? I'm thinking mostly of Monteverde where I have heard it can be very muddy. Are hiking boots necessary? I hate to think that we have to pack sneakers, Tevas (or flip flops) and also Hikers for all 5 of us. What are your thoughts?
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Old Jul 6th, 2005, 03:26 PM
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Wanatryl, I recommend packing 2 pairs of walking shoes with good traction for each person. I used my white Nike walking shoes (similar to tennis shoes) and 1 pair of running shoes with good traction. Hubby had a pair of hiking shoes the size of tennis shoes but tougher, you know, NOT boots, but hiking shoes. He already owned them for his job. Discourage your kids from bringing trendy shoes that have no traction on the bottom.

You can rent a pair of rubber hiking boots with high tops at Monteverde if it's really extra muddy. Ask at the desk. I asked and the man said no, it wasn't necesary that day. We did fine in our tennis shoes.

don't try to wear sandals on any hikes in costa rica!

Do bring a pair of sandals, or pool shoes, for walking on the beach or to the pool at your hotel. I also wore my sandals while driving in the car from one destination to another.

why do you need 2 pairs of walking shoes? Because 1 will inevitably get muddy and wet.

Have fun!
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Old Jul 6th, 2005, 03:41 PM
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Hi Melissa,
I have a question about Ecotermales for our family. I have reserved dinner and the springs for the five of us for New Year's Eve through a tour company that gets great reviews on Fodor's. However, it is costing us $59 p/p because it's New Year's, I'm assuming! I didn't want to wait until we got there to book due to it being a Holiday, but do you think it is worth that amount of money? Like you, I'm not crazy about Tabacon being so crowded and being in a danger zone. What do you think? Thanks, Jayne
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Old Jul 6th, 2005, 04:58 PM
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ANSWERS TO YOUR QUESTIONS:

Jayneann, no, I don't think Ecotermales would be worth $59 per person. I think we paid less than half that price, including dinner. HOWEVER, maybe it would be worth $59 if they had an extra big party going on just for New Year's, you knowing, offering special food or drinks or entertainment that is not normally offered.

I would contact Ecotermales directly and see if you can get a better price by reserving directly with them. It is family owned and family run. If you can get a better price by reserving directly, I would e-mail or call them again several times as New Year's approached, keeping in contact to be sure your reservations don't get lost. (I always recommend this no matter who you book with.)

If your reservation includes transportation that would be worth something too. Try to find out exactly what Ecotermales is doing for your $59 for New year's. For example, are any mixed alcoholic drinks included in the price?

When you book directly with any place, I recommend mentioning that you heard about them from happy travellers on fodors.com who have made good comments about them. This gives us individual travellers more "clout" than we used to have back in the days before the internet!

Good luck and enjoy New Year's.
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Old Jul 6th, 2005, 05:19 PM
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MANUEL ANTONIO PARK RESERVE:

We spent 1 full day at Manuel Antonio Park reserve. (Your ticket is good for the day. We left and drove away to find lunch, then returned to the park after lunch.)

The good news: The beaches within the Manuel Antonio park reserve are pretty, the water is wonderfully warm, and the beaches were NOT crowded at all when we were there Tuesday through Thursday. I hear the beaches get more crowded on the weekend.

There are bathroom facilities.

It's easy to see some wildlife in the park because the jungle isn't very dense. You don't need a guide in this park. Just use your eyes and swap information with the other hikers that you pass. That's what we did. If you change your mind and want a guide, you can easily walk back to the entrance and hire one after you try it on your own.

In the Manuel Antonio park reserve we saw howler monkeys, a little forest gecko, the large reptiles called the "ctenosaur (banana iguana)", red land crabs, and 2 of the cute, lazy, furry animals called the "sloth". They are greenish-brownish in color, and they move so slowly it's amazing to watch them with binoculars.

You don't need to hike very far to see most of these animals. The sloth was actually in a tree fairly close to the path and near a small building.

The bad news: Two aspects of the Manuel Antonio park reserve were disappointing to us. One, compared to the rainforests at Arenal and Monteverde, this jungle seems quite disturbed by man. It is less dense, and so it is possible for people to leave the path and disturb the vegetation, and it looks like this has certainly been done, unfortunately.

The other disappointing thing was that, following advice in the FROMMERS guidebook, we spent a couple of hours on a very hot, humid day hiking up to the steep Punta Catedral trail, which is supposed to have great views. However, having already hiked in Arenal and Monteverde, we found this trail to be a total waste of time! We saw very little wildlife, except for red land crabs. The weather was very hot and very humid. The view of the ocean wasn't that great, unless you have never seen the ocean before. We had a better ocean view from our hotel!

So, DO visit the Manuel Antonio Park reserve, but IGNORE the Punta Catedral trail and take the other trails, which are easier, closer to the swimming beach, and have more wildlife to easily view!

In general I found that the Frommers guidebook wasn't as reliable for costa Rica as 2 other better guidebooks which I recommend. I recommend you trust the FODORS guidebook for Costa Rica, and also the excellent guidebook "The New Key To Costa Rica".

All this is our personal opinion! Others may have different experiences. This was our experience. And to remind you, we were hiking with my hubby the biologist, who usually spots lots of wildlife for us!

CROSSING THE WATER:
Take some dollar bills with you. When you try to leave the Manuel antonio park, you will need to take a small boat and tip the boatmen, because the water level rises. Unless you want to wade through the knee-deep water in your hiking shoes!

More on Manuel Antonio food and butterfly gardens to follow. (Plus Hotel bougainvillea, Heredia.)
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Old Jul 6th, 2005, 05:20 PM
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Thanks for being honest Melissa! I will have to investigate further!!
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Old Jul 6th, 2005, 05:26 PM
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Oops! I was talking about Ecotermales and I guess you just reported more info about Manuel Antonio! Great tips!!!!!
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Old Jul 7th, 2005, 01:32 AM
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Hi Melissa,
GREAT trip report! Sounds like you all had a wonderful time. Hopefully you haven't answered these questions already. I had to write this while I was only half way through all your posts because I keep thinking of more questions to ask as I'm reading and I'm afraid I will forget them if I don't write this now!
OK, that said....I was wondering what shoes you wore in the different areas that you were in. I'm having a hard time figuring out what to buy/bring because of previous posts about shoes that don't dry, good tread, no tennis shoes, etc. I'm really curious what shoes you wore through the hanging bridges forest and also MA. We won't be in Monteverde, just Arenal, Turucares(sp) area, MA, and Dominical. I really need comfy shoes because my feet hurt alot when I'm on them for hours. But I know I'm going to be miserably hot and won't want to wear socks any more than absolutely necessary. I realize that I can't wear sandals everywhere (like the forests) but I'm curious what you wore and if they worked out well for you. Did you end up with those shoes from Lands End that alot of people were commenting on in other threads?
Also...I know it's hot, and even more so, humid everywhere you go but the trees completely shade the forests while hiking through them right? I keep having flashbacks of walking on the pier from our cruiseship to a port of call in the Yucatan last summer, and it was SOOOOOOO smoltering HOT with the sun beating down on us, I couldn't find shade fast enough!
So, if I at least know there is some reprieve in the forests, that will help. I already forgot my 3rd question. Oh well, here's another one Do you think it would be worth it to wear one of those H2O backpacks that have the bladder that holds water, with a tube that you drink from, or would it make it too hot and uncomfortable? I just bought a couple of them but I may return them. Not sure. Of course with all the talk about potential thefts, it makes me wonder if it's a good idea to carry anything else in it anyways.

Thanks for sharing your new found knowledge of Costa Rica!
I wonder if anyone ever tape records just the sounds in the jungle (when there's no loud tour groups around) to take back home with them.
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Old Jul 7th, 2005, 02:31 PM
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ANSWERS TO YOUR QUESTIONS:

Beena, I did mention shoes already, but anyway here's our experience on shoes.

Nothing dries in costa rica unless you put it through the dryer. Therefore you need 2 pairs of walking/hiking shoes and a pair of sandals or beach/pool shoes.

A wet pair of shoes will dry in a few days, but it will NOT dry overnight. too much himidity, besides the rain and mud.

I was fine on the trails with my Nike walking shoes. I switched to a pair of running shoes when the other ones were wet. You must have good tread on the bottom. You should wear socks...helps prevent ant bites and mosquito bites.

Sandals would NOT be good on the trails.
If you don't wear socks you'll end up with itchy ankles!

The forest canopy provided constant shade. While hiking through the arenal and monteverde area rainforests/cloud forests, we were always in the shade. it's warm and humid, and you will sweat, but no problem in the forest with shade!

Manuel Antonio was hotter than arenal and monteverde. You will be in the sun at the beach but you can cool off in the water. we found manuel antonio so hot the hike wasn't enjoyable. but as I mentioned before we took the high trail to punta cathedral, i think that's what it was called, see trip report above. It was way too hot for that hike and not worth it. so in manuel antonio park reserve stick with the other trails, which don't actually stray that far from the beach.

Hubby had hiking shoes, also fine, but he already owned them as he's a biologist who does a lot of field work.

don't bring any trendy walking shoes that lack sufficient tread on the bottom...you know, you don't want to slip on the trails which can be muddy in places. don't step on the tree roots, they are the most slippery of all.

we all wore either walking shoes, running shoes, or hiking shoes, and none of us fell though it got slippery in places.

It's a fantastic experience to walk through the forests!

we carried only water bottles, a pair of binoculars to share, and one of us had a small front pack.

therer are other people around when you are hiking in the places I"ve mentioned, if you were going to be robbed, it wouldn't be there! it would be someplace more remote and more vulnerable. didn't see anybody but nature lovers in the daylight within the monterverde cloud forest preserve, hanging bridges, arenal, and manuel antonio park reserve.

have fun.
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Old Jul 7th, 2005, 02:36 PM
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I will be OUT OF TOWN for 2 days and so won't be able to answer questions til I return.

As soon as possible I'll finish this trip report when I return!
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Old Jul 7th, 2005, 06:52 PM
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I'd love to get more info from you as I'm taking my daughter, age 22 in a few weeks and have not even begun to plan our trip. I work for an airline so we usually just go but I think I'd like to have a few things planned. We're going for one week only. Thanks for any must do's or see's and where to stay. Thanks....

Nancy
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Old Jul 7th, 2005, 07:34 PM
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Thanks Melissa, That helps me figure it out so maybe now I can start packing-we leave on the 14th. That's a good idea to bring 2 pr. of walking shoes, especially if one's an older pair, they can just be tossed if they get trashed. I just realized too that 2 of 3 places we are staying at have a washer and dryer so I can just utilize that too. Thanks again for your advice!
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Old Jul 9th, 2005, 12:22 PM
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WOW Melissa you are so thorough in all your advice. Thank you so much. And once again thank you for the great trip report.
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Old Jul 10th, 2005, 12:39 PM
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ANSWERS TO YOUR QUESTIONS:

NancyC, since you're going in the rainy season and you only have 1 week, select 2 destinations only. Our experience in June (plus reports I've had from talking to other travellers) is that it is usually sunny and warm in the morning during the rainy season, and rains in the afternoon almost daily.

Therefore you should plan active outdoor activities for the morning, and leave the afternoons for siesta, shopping (bring compact umbrellas and light-weight rain ponchos that fold up small for carrying), checking out the facilities at your hotel, any indoor activities, etc.

Go to bed before 11:00 pm and get up as early as you can with the sun.

If you get a clear evening with no rain, head for the nearest rainforest reserve and do a guided night-tour.

My advice comes from my experience at Manuel Antonio, Arenal, Monteverde, and Hotel La Finca Que Ama (see trip report above for details.) Also talked to other travellers we met in Costa Rica who reported the same basic weather patterns for these areas in June. I assume it will be similar for July and August as they are all part of the rainy season.

I have taken many different types of trips over the years. I have tried detailed planning, totally winging it, and in the middle, with sort-of plans but not too concrete. The best trips, by a unanimous family vote, have been the ones planned in great detail, with the needs and opinions of the whole family being taken into consideration by the planner (me!) With trips planned in great detail, you must include some "unplanned spontaneous" time into your schedule.

For Costa Rica during the rainy season, it's best to plan all of your mornings, but leave the afternoons for those unplanned spontaneous things. (But you still need a list of possible things to do during your spontaneous moments!)

Have fun. do more research.
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Old Jul 10th, 2005, 12:58 PM
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MANUEL ANTONIO (continued):

BUTTERFLY GARDENS, MANUEL ANTONIO:

We loved the butterfly garden at The Nature Farm Private Wildlife Refuge right across the street from the Hotel Si Como No, Manuel Antonio! They run the Butterfly & Aquatic Tropical Gardens. www.butterflygardens.co.cr

We only had time to do the guided tour of the butterfly gardens. I highly recommend this for all ages!

Our guide, Brian, was great, and he was very good with the 2 small children included in our tour group with another family. He was also knowledgeable and interesting for adults. A total of 7 people in our tour group.

I have to admit that it brought tears to my eyes, to see a brand new butterfly take its first flight, seen through the round, delighted eyes of the 2 little girls in our tour group!

Brian was very good about explaining the life cycle of the butterfly. The exhibits show each stage of the life cycle.

We learned that pesticides kill butterflies! They cannot live with pesticides.

The newly emerged butterfly we saw was the Morpho, which opens its beautiful blue wings in flight.

If we had more time I would have gone back to the same location to see their guided nature trails where you can see other wildlife. I wish we'd had time to try their "Jungle Night Walk".

Next: Manuel Antonio/Quepos restaurants, and Hotel Bougainvillea, Heredia
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Old Jul 10th, 2005, 01:29 PM
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MANAUEL ANTONIO/QUEPOS RESTAURANTS:

BEST FOOD we tried in the Manuel Antonio/Quepos area with fun atmosphere:

#1 RICO TICO BAR'N GRILL, Hotel Si Como No, Manuel Antonio (Recommend breakfast, lunch, and dinner!)

Menu prices at Rico Tico already include the taxes unlike many other places. ORDER THE BANANA FLAMBEE dessert after dinner...it's more than a dessert, it's entertainment!

#2 ESCALOFRIO, Quepos Centro:

We got tired of eating with tourists so we drove into nearby Quepos down-town and joined the locals (and tourists) at Escalofrio Heladeria Y Cafeteria (Pizza and Spaghetti house, plus gelato!) Opens 2:30 pm Phone: 777-0833

Lots of Spanish-speaking customers here. Decent food for good prices, clean place. NOT touristy. Nice staff.

There's a pizza on the menu with oregano. Keep this in mind: it's the ONLY pizza that has oregano, this is Costa Rica!

Enjoyed getting away from the tourists. The only down-side is that it's downtown Quepos so there are some exhaust fumes nearby.

We all ordered pizzas so can't comment on the spaghetti.

There was a fellow right in front of the restaurant who guided us with hand-signals as we parked right in front. It looked like he would watch your car for a small tip...and he did! Gave him a small tip after we ate. He seemed happy, we were happy too.

Oh! DO NOT TRY to find anything in downtown Quepos at night. Either take a taxi or else do what we did. We drove into Quepos in the daytime to get our bearings, a maze of narrow crowded streets. We found our restaurants that interested us, and then returned at night to eat.

It was a mini-adventure, driving into Quepos Centro. Si como No gave us a map of Quepos, and Escalofrio is one street over from the better known "El Gran Escape" restaurant. Escalofrio is around the corner from the bus terminal according to the map, though we never saw the bus terminal!

Quepos Centro is only maybe a 10 minute drive from Manuel antonio tourist hotels? Maybe less? I felt safe with my family, though I wouldn't walk there alone at night.

#3 MAR Y LUNA, Manuel Antonio

This is a restaurant down the street from the Htel Si como No. The seafood was tasy and fresh and generous portions on the seafood. The rice that accompanies the meal was NOT good, too dry.

There was a musician playing and singing at Mar Y Luna during dinner. 2 couples started dancing. This added a little fun to the evening. The singer was good!

DISAPPOINTING:
We tried a couple other restaurants that we didn't like. The Anacanda was disappointing for lunch...food was so-so and the service was disinterested. (Others have reported a good experience here so maybe we just got unlucky.)

Anacanda also sold me 2 water bottles which later I noticed tasted funny. So I checked the date and they were "expired". Honestly I didn't know water could expire, but it tasted funny, sort of like dirty plastic! Oh, well. Anacanda is in a hotel in Manuel Antonio area.

THAT'S IT for Manuel Antonio.
NEXT: Hotel Bougainvillea, Heredia
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Old Jul 10th, 2005, 01:39 PM
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MANUEL ANTONIO: last tip!

BEST DRINK in Manuel Antonio:

OOPs! How could I leave out the Cafe Milagro? Best coffee and best cold drink in Manuel Antonio. The Expresso shake was so good we wanted to stop by for a second one!

Cafe Milagro roasts its own coffee beans. I think they sell sandwiches too. Because of how good their drinks are, I would recommend trying breakfast or lunch there! www.cafemilagro.com

My son and I agreed the Expresso shake at Cafe Milagro is so good it makes all the cold coffee drinks at Starbucks taste like something you'd pick up at the convenience store at your local gas station! Cafe Milagro has great coffee and expresso, hot or cold.
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Old Jul 11th, 2005, 10:08 AM
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HOTEL BOUGAINVILLEA, HEREDIA:

I highly recommend Hotel Bougainvillea, Heredia! Best overall staff of all our hotels! This hotel is much nicer and more unique than it appears in photos on-line. AND THE GARDEN IS FANTASTIC! Everything is very clean and lovely.

Hubby and I had room 206, very very clean, nice balcony on the second floor with a pleasant view of the garden. Quiet room.

Owner is a very nice man. I asked him when the sauna closes and he thought about it and said, "It doesn't!"

Staff accomodated our desire to go out to the pool/sauna until past 10:00 pm (they lock the back door at night that leads to the garden/pool/sauna.) Normally they would have locked the door sooner but they were very flexible and graciously allowed us the time we wanted!

Great food in restaurant also. (We had 1 dinner there.)

Pool and sauna area is beautiful.

Inside the hotel, there are authentic artifacts in the lobby to peer at. Lovely inside, and the rooms are much nicer than I expected for $80 a room! Very comfortable and tastefully decorated rooms. Lovely garden view from balcony.

The facilities are terrific. Driving through Heredia, you get worried that maybe the hotel will disappoint you. But it's a delightful find!

Oh, the garden! My biologist hubby was delighted.

More details about Hotel Bougainvillea from my journal:

"Loved this hotel! Bougainvillea). Classy, multi-cultural staff speaks English well (many of them do, not all.) 2 or 3 stories.

A real treat for the senses! Inside, art and old artifacts everywhere. Flowers, nice tile.

Outside, amazing garden. Lovingly planned and cared for, both native and non-native flora. Many plants labelled. Frog ponds. Orchids. Benches in the garden.

The Garden is the owner's passion. Hubby says those are the most giant and most magnificent bromeliads he has ever seen! Fragrance of flowers and bird song in morning.

A maze with a gazebo in the center. (Maze is young now but will grow thicker as it matures.) Romantic!

Attractive mid-size pool with changing area, toilets, nice sauna. Art made from tiles adorns pool area.

Best overall staff in costa rica! Small, expensive gift shop.

Restaurant has both gourmet and regular choices. Great home-made ice cream desserts. This is the only restaurant we dined at in Costa Rica where people actually dressed for dinner. We didn't dress up, and felt very welcome."

Excellent cancellation policy. No penalties if you cancel by fax within 48 hours of arrival. They were great about answering e-mail!

Hotel Bougainvillea feels like a beautiful oasis near the airport. I recommend taking a taxi here from airport area.

This was the last night of our trip and we had dropped our rental car off at Tricolor and Tricolor gave us a free ride to Hotel Bougainvillea.

You must drive through streets that seem to have no names, so I recommend hiring a driver to find it for the first time.

I recommend 2 nights in Hotel Bougainvillea. Enjoy gardens, pool, sauna, TV; take the free shuttle into San Jose (El Pueblo area) for shopping and dancing. If you are planning a day-tour adventure nearby then add a 3rd night.

It's about a 20-minute taxi ride from the airport, depending on traffic.

There isn't anyplace you'd want to walk to outside the hotel grounds. However, we were only there for 1 night and the beautiful garden and pool and sauna provided plenty of entertainment.

We liked the garden so much, we got up at 5:30 the next morning to enjoy the garden before our flight!

Coffee and cookie wafers provided in early morning. Handy if you are leaving for the airport.

Breakfast is NOT included. Also, there is a mistake in Frommers guidebook. This hotel has never had a jacuzzi. It has a nice sauna and pool, not a jacuzzi.

HEREDIA: When Tricolor drove us through the narrow, crowded city streets of Heredia, we found it to be a typical Costa Rican city. Bigger than the small towns. Not exactly attractive, but we felt safe. (There may be some attractive parts of town, besides Hotel Bougainvillea, but we headed straight for the hotel.)

When I was researching hotels near the airport, I wondered if Hotel Bougainvillea would be worth the drive. (There are hotels closer to the airport.) The answer is, YES YES, it's definitely worth the drive! www.bougainvillea.co.cr

I was pleased to read somewhere that the Hotel Bougainvillea helps support the local school. A nice community gesture.
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Old Jul 13th, 2005, 05:49 AM
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Melissa5- Great report! So glad you liked Bougainvillea--we did, too (In fact, I think I posted with you about it after I wrote my trip report). Everything you describe is just what we loved, too. Oh, that garden--we took so many beautiful photos!
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Old Jul 13th, 2005, 01:57 PM
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schlegal1, wonder if you can e-mail me any of your photos of the Hotel Bougainvillea and garden? Or do you have them on a web-site somewhere?

My niece is planning her honeymoon to Costa Rica and she is a very visual person, she says. The Hotel Bougainvillea's web-site just doesn't do it justice. It looks boring on its web-site, but as we know, in reality it's wonderful!

Thanks for helping stear me that way! Hubby and I both loved Hotel bougainvillea. (In fact hubby loved it so much for $80 he said he has decided that in costa rica, the LESS you pay the more you get for your money! He liked it better than our more expensive hotel, Hotel si como No. But the rest of the family loved Hotel si como No too...it's a matter of personal preferences.)
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