granny

We're back from our 5-1/2 weeks in Argentina. Have 8 inches of snow outside, can't get up our drive. Dear husband took a slide on our steep road and maybe broke a bone in his foot, and we can't get out to even take him to the clinic. Wish we had stayed there a couple more weeks in sunny Argentina!

We flew out of Seattle to Houston on Continental. Was the best ticket price, but I didn't realize they only flew one plane a night to Buenos Aires. Flew to Houston and into an electrical storm. They wouldn't let us land, so we circled till the Captain was running out of fuel and on to Dallas to refuel. Captain must not have had the right credit card. We were there quite a while and when we got back to Houston, we missed the only flight out by 90 minutes.

All the smart people used their cell phones to get out on the next day. After what seemed like hours, we got to the front of the line only to be told there were no seats available for two days!! This was Thurs, that meant we wouldn't get out to Sat night. We would miss two hotel nites in BA, paid for, and miss our Sun flight to Mendoza.

We said to get us out anyway possible. We flew to Mexico City very early the next morning and had an 11 hour layover for a flight to Santiago, Chili, another hour wait and then a flight to BA.

We spent the day in the Mexico City Museum, which is very impressive. Got a bit ripped off by the taxi driver. He said he would come back for us at a certain time, then charged us for waiting 3 hours instead. We settled it with a third party who spoke better English. Still overpaid, but not what he wanted.

We got in BA one day late. Stayed at the Star Hotel in Recoletta, $75, very small room and tiny elevator, but good location. They were very helpful there.

We ate a late lunch at a little restaurant two blocks toward the cemetery. Thought it was a healthfood restaurant, but it wasn't. It was crowded and the food was tasty. Said 14 pesos comida. My husband had pasta, I had chicken breast in champayne sauce. It came with dessert and drimk. We told them they forgot to charge us for the drinks, they said it was included. Welcome to Buenos Aires!

We walked past the cemetery and found the Saturday market fair in Recoleta. A pair of earrings later, we headed back to our hotel.

After another early morning flight. This time to Mendoza, we checked into the Plaza Italia B & B. Mercedes and her family, Xavier, her son, couldn't have been nicer or more helpful. I had told Mercedes, from Argentina Escapes, that I didn't want to stay in big hotels, but small places with charm. This was a converted house close to the square. If you visit here, ask for the upstairs room with private bath in the back. I think it was $65. I'm not much into details after the trip.

We were there over their Mothers' Day and the large square was filled with craft people and music. It's a very walkable town. Our second night there we met up with a couple I met over Fodor's. Barbara and Juli from New York state. We had a fun dinner at the Spanish restaurant right down the street from the B & B. It was very inexpensive. We all shared paella. Almost all our dinners were between $25 and $35 for wine, 1 salad, main course and 1 dessert. The portions are large and easily shared. In fact, we should have shared more often.

We went on a bus tour to the Chili border. It was long, all day. Not sure I would do that again. Went on a wine tour Mercedes from the B & B recommended. She made all our tour arrangements. That was a big help. Went to the Lopez winery and a smaller one. That was nice. She arranged a remiss, thats a private driver, to take us to this large winery, Familiar Zuccordi, that does parrilla lunches. We had a private tour and a wonderful lunch. The first of many parrilla meals, that's an Argentine barbecue.

Our last night we spent at the Finca Adalgisa Inn outside Mendoza. It was a lovely place, worth staying two nights. We ate twice at this little Italian place withing walking distance. I tried to keep the business cards from the restaurants we enjoyed. Anyhow, it's towards town and on the left about 1/4 mile from the Finca.

cmcfong

WElcome home, Granny.Sounds like a great trip. I hope your husband's foot heals quickly.

granny

Almost all flights leave and return to Buenos Aires. My friend, Andrea, said to be sure to take at least one overnite bus. We took the 20 hour overnite bus from Mendoza to Bariloche. We had coma seats, which is like business class, so it wasn't as bad as I expected. They have movies, some English, serve unapetizing food, but it only one night.

We arrived on a windy day in Bariloche. The lake is incredible. We stayed at Las Marianas Hotel, a few minutes walk from city center. Mariana couldn't have been more pleasant and helpful and she arranged our tours also. The breakfast was very bountiful here, pretty room too. Bathroom was small, but had everything. My husband said you had to exit the bathroom to turn around. Almost.

We like to say we ate and drank our way around Argentina. So many good restaurant there. We ask travel agents or realtors where to eat when we're in a new town. They always know.

We had a parrilla steak at the El Boliche "de Alberto". One was enough for two and a serving of frites is 10" high. We had two meals at Familia Biancho Moreno, next to the Hotel Nahuel. Wonderful Italian food. Have to say the Italian food everywhere in Argentina was the best I've had. I haven't been to Italy though.

Most of the Argentinians are an extraction of Italian, Spanish or a mix. A very handsome mix. People everywhere were friendly and nice to us, even though we spoke little Spanish.

We took a half day catamoran tour of the lake that stopped at a couple places. It rained. We went first class. They served you empanada, coffee, cakes, candy, etc. and you have a better view. It was worth the extra.

One day we took an all day bus tour to some of the glaciers. They are receding, but we did see some caving. Our guide didn't speak any English, but it worked out ok. Long day.

Another day we took the bus to the Llao Llao Resort. They were having a musical week and wouldn't let us even in the hotel, because all the lunch and dinner reservations were booked. We got around that by making a reservation for a performance the next night. We got there and had a lovely tea in one of their restaurants, looked around and then heard a concert with the most wonderful violinist. She could do things with that violin I've never heard. The hotel reminds me of the Ahwanee Hotel in Yosemite, CA.

After 4 nights, we flew back to BA.

mikemo

We flew BsAs - Iguazu and BsAs - Bariloche in late Oct.
Took the Bus from Bariloche to Puerto Varas, CL for $50. Ar pesos.
Six hours on the first class bus was enough for us.
Loved both BsAs and Santiago.
I still cannot imagine using travel agents if you speak any Spanish.
Buen viaje.
M (SMdA, Gto.)

granny

Mikemo, we speak very little Spanish. I tried to make hotel reservations on my own, but it was much easier using Mercedes from Argentina Escapes. She choose places I would not have known about, and she got us cheaper rates on some air and B & B's. I was very happy with her help.

Judi

Hi granny!

Wow! You had an adventure even before you set foot in Argentina!

Your trip sounded fun. I agree that a travel agent in Argentina can be invaluable. I know that Cintia saved us money and also was very helpful when we were there.

Are we going to hear about Buenos Aires?

P.S. I hope DH's foot gets better real soon so he can get out to shovel snow!

granny

Hi Judi,
Good to hear from you. I keep losing my next reply, so I'll try again.

Thanks CMCFong, just heard another snow storm is due in Wed. UGH!

Back in BA, we met with our agent's representative and another man, who didn't speak a word of English. and who was to take our deposit for the apartment I rented. He was also to take care of any problems. Good luck. We made arrangements with BYTArgentina. Their agent spoke excellent English. My advice. If you rent an apartment, make sure the end person you are dealing with speaks a bit of your language. At the end of our visit, we had a problem with the door lock. There were two. We were to get in touch with the second agent, and we couldn't find his number, if he gave us one.

The apartment looked like it did on the computer. It was in Palermo. It was small and ok for a couple weeks. The neighborhood was so so. A couple blocks away, was much nicer. You can't tell everything from pictures.

Everywhere you walk, you have to watch every step. Sidewalks are broken up and uneven. Dog laws are not observed, if you know what I mean. It was a challenge to get home without hurting yourself. We saw lots of tourists with broken bones.

The one thing we did like about the apartment's location was that it was a few blocks from the subway, food shopping, visa, mall, restaurants, etc. The restaurants were in a nice area and a lot of them had outside dinning. We enjoyed eating outside, beautiful weather, and watching the people walk by.

It was surprising to see so many people with dogs, and mostly big dogs.

granny

I'm posting shorter replies, since I lost two long ones.

The Teatro Colon was closing for two years at the end of Oct, and I really wanted to see it. So we took a cab and got reservations for what was available. We got standing room only ($1.50) for a concert and a ballet. We stayed about an hour each. By the time you got there, waited in line an hour and then watched an hour, that was enough. We got balcony tickets ($33) for a Russian opera that was beautiful, even though we didn't understand a word. We also took a theather tour that was well worth it.

Since we had so much time, we took our time. We spent most of it just walking around the different neighborhoods.

We took the subway many places. My husband prided himself on reading the schedule and getting us to our destinations. I think it was about $.20 per ticket. We took them everywhere. We also took a lot of taxis. They usually costs between $3 and $4 to most places. We took the Leon remiss from the airports. You knew how much it would be in advance. When you get off the plane, you'll see their booth. You tell them where you want to go, they tell you a price and then take you to a remiss, a private driver.

When you take a cab, make sure it's a Radio Cab. The cabs are all the same color. We took one that wasn't and he took us for a ride.

One pouring rainy day, we spent at the Fine Arts Museum. They have a beautiful museum. We planned to go to more, but never did.

We visited the San Telmo Sunday market twice. Saw some tango there, but not as much as I expected. What a crowd. Ate twice at Desnivel, a fun, busy place. The steak was great.

We had Malbec everywhere. I don't usually drink red wine, but somehow it didn't taste as sharp as red wine here. We tried Fredos ice cream but, surprisingly we found others we liked better.

Spent an afternoon in La Boca. It was colorful, but my least favorite area. We felt safe there, but I wouldn't want to wander off the busy areas there.

Brahmama

Hey Granny,

Glad you're back and enjoying your trip report. Keep it coming! Try to give some names for your fav restaurants esp in BUE if you have the time.
I hope your husband's foot is better than you fear, and that he heals up rapidly.
Carol

granny

After three days in BA, we took a flight Iguazu. Stayed at the Esturion Hotel. We liked it better after they moved us from a dank, smelly basement room to a higher room. Even with the a/c turned high, it was hot and humid there. They had a wonderful breakfast and a beautiful pool. We ate a parrilla one night by the pool. If you go there, and I think it was one of the better hotels, don't hestitate to complain if they put you in the bottom rooms. Two Irish girls said they were moving also. After spending the day at the falls, I really enjoyed the pool.

Iguazu Falls is not to be believed. We must have 100 pictures. It's hot and humid, but worth it. We walked all the trails for hours. We took a public bus right in front of the hotel. It's better on your own, without a tour. That's my opinion. Then you leave when you want to or stay as long as you wish.

Be careful of the steps. We both took a spill, plus I got stung by a bee. The ranger there took out the stinger. We were nursing our boo boos the next day.

Had one of our very best meals in the French Restaurant in town. If I find the name, I'll post it. My husband must have had a platefull of roast lamb, his favorite. This incredible meal was around $43 with a bottle of Malbec, salad, 2 entrees, 1 dessert plus 20% gratuity. I still remember that restaurant and meal.

It's funny. I pictured Iguazu as an upscale town and El Calafate as boring. It was just the opposite. We stayed here two nights and returned to BA.

More later

mikemo

Other than BsAs, a day at Iguazu and Santiago, I would agree - very boring.
M

granny

Carol, where is BUE?

granny

Correction: We spent the first nite in BA at the Art Hotel in Recoleta, not the Star.

Our favorite Italian restaurant by the Finca was Chesa Veglia, nice decor, very good Italian food.

Back in BA, we had a few days before the next adventure. We did a lot of walking down Florida st. It must be a mile long, with all kinds of shops, dancers, guitar players, you name it. We went there several times. DH bought a genuine rainproof leather hat. He looks quite dashing in it. I bought the easiest things to pack and give, tee shirts and jewelry. We also got several tango music c.d.'s and one by the guitar player. He played beautifully, but was a lousy speller, like me. If you get his album, you'll know what I mean.

We were using Lonely Plant Argentina (sorry Fodors) and found we wanted something more intense about BA, so we hunted and hunted until we found Lonely Planet Buenos Aires, in English. Costs $5 more than in the states, but we used it all the time in BA.

We walked to Plaza de Mayo one day and bumped into 2 fellows from our island. We knew they would be in town, but hey it's 14 million people there. Really didn't expect to meet up with them.

Got to the cemetery, kind of creepy. I'm not a cemetery type person, but we saw Eva's and you could see a lot of caskets through windows. Creepy. The white church next door was nice and the little museum is worth the few pesos admission.

Here are some of the restaurants we enjoyed in BA:
Around the centro area:
Broccolino-we ate here twice, both wonderful, large portions,
restaurant.

Granix-vegetarian rest upstairs in a mall. We were taking a break from meat. It's about $6 for all-you-can eat buffet at lunch. My dh hates buffets, but we went to a few. First time it was great, second time, we thought it was so so.

Puerto Madero:
Cabana Las Lilas-Another buffet that attracks the locals. It was a large place by the waterfront. It was kind of fun. They had a salad bar and then you go up with a plate and tell the cook what you want. It's a parrilla and there's a half dozen cooks barbecuing. You can try a lot of different things if you know what to call them. No one speaks English. You get a whole bottle of wine or pitcher of beer, plus bread and dessert for about $10 per person. It's quite an experience. Not the tenderist meat, but if you don't like it, you can go up and get something else. Thats a bottle of wine per person. People spend a long time here.

Congreso-
Chiquilin-We took family of a friend to dinner here. They chose it because it's an old Argentine original. Lovely place and very good food. We ordered the most expensive steak ($10). It was wonderful. Sides are always extra. Try the chocolate mousse. A top suggestion.

San Telmo
Desnivel- ate there twice. A busy place. Mentioned this one before.

Retiro
La Esquina de las Flores-vegetarian. My husband loved it, I thought the food bland.

Palermo
Rio Alba - Food was very good. Hate to say it, another parrilla. When in Argentina--- Felt a little rushed, but we got there late on a pouring Sunday afternoon and they wanted to close up.

La Farmacia
Yes, it was a farmacy in some past life. No one spoke a word of English. We ate here at least 5 times. Good Italian food, the best pizza we had. We had a couple really bad ones and almost gave up on pizza. We would eat breakfast sitting outside with our little cups of cafe con leche and toast or glazed croissants, watching the world walk by on a sunny morning. Breakfast for two with maybe additional orange juice for me, about $6. It was like 2 blocks from our apartment. We would watch the people walk their dogs.

Marini Gourmet- Another buffet, but not your normal buffet. This place had tablecloths, waiters, incredible displays of food. It was a couple blocks past the big shopping center on Av. Santa Fe. It was a feast. They had all kinds of different foods at each station. They even had a parrilla station that had 4 or 5 lamb roasting, maybe a goat too. The first time we were impressed. We ate here our last meal also. It was in our neighborhood.

If there is one thing I wish, it would be that we ate more desserts.

drdawggy

Great report.

I think you may have the wrong name for the buffet in Puerto Madero. Cabana las Lilas is a steak house (the Ruth Chris of BA). Do you mean La Bisteca by any chance? It is an all you can eat buffet, much as you described.

Desserts are wonderful in BA...especially the ice cream.

granny

Our next adventure was to fly to El Calafate. We stayed at a hostel called America del Sur. It was high on a hill and our room had a view of the lake and the mountains. Upstairs, back room, double, with private bath and coffee and toast for breakfast, $53. It was a fun place, lots of singles and couples. The management were young happy kids that were so helpful. They made the arrangements for our tours.

Our first night there they had a all-you-can-eat pizza party, $5 p.p. It was fun to talk with the people there. There were Irish girls on a year long trek, a doctor that just finished his degree. We like to throw in a hostel when we travel, people are so friendly and you get a lot of travel tips.

We took another boat trip to see some of the glaciers. Yep, it rained. It was rough also, but our pictures are worth it. We got out at one island and walked around. I never realized how blue the glaciers can be and I've seen lots in Alaska.

We walked all around the center several times. The shops were upscale, basically for tourists. There is so much building going on. Go now. This place won't be the same in 5 years. They bring in planeloads of people from France and Spain to visit here.

We went to La Tablita one night. It is highly praised, but we thought it was overrated. The one we went to twice was La Vaca Atada. It has a cow out front, great food and happy waiters.

The highlight of our trip was walking on the San Marino glacier. We took a tour that takes you to one side for the view, and then buses you to the other, then you take a boat, walk across a lot of rocks and you're on the glacier. They put these krampons on your shoes, who knows if I spelled that right, and you're supposed to walk up and down this glacier. We thought it would be a flat walk, no way. Have to admit, after a couple hundred feet, I said "take me back". The guide did and I waited while dh walked 1 1/2 hours. He said I made the right decision. It was steep.

I hiked back to the shelter and tried to converse with this lady from Spain, waiting for her daughter. We did a lot of hand signals and smiling. Saw her next day, walking down the street. We hugged like old friends and dh took a picture of us together.

Back to BA. After visiting San Temo again, I came down with a mean 36 hour flu. My dh said I had too much wine!! Till he came down with it 2 days later. This was our last week and we were going to do all the things we missed, Colonia, museums, delta, etc.

We just had to see a tango show, but we weren't up to eating a big or fancy meal, so after we got better, we went to the Cafe Tortoni tango show. It was cute, beautiful young dancers, lots of singing and jokes. We missed that part, since it was in Spanish, but we still enjoyed the show. For $10, it is a bargain. We ate a light supper there beforehand, and the food is so so. Dessert might have been a better choice. It's a beautiful restaurant though and my husband has been enjoying his Cafe Tortoni cafe cup.

We arrived back in Seattle about 18 hours later---to pouring rain. We were home!

granny

You are right DrD. Big mistake. It was Siga La Vaca restaurant in Puerto Madero.

granny

Oops! I know I should proofread more! That's Glaciar Perito Moreno. Still beautiful by any name.

drdawggy

Great report, with or without editing!!!!Thanks for taking the time to post a summary of your adventures. You stayed pretty busy for a granny!

Brahmama

Hi Granny,
I've been off this board for a while (bronchitis etc) and haven't felt like typing. But wanted to say thanks again for the restaurant names.

BUE is the airport code for Buenos Aires (I just got lazy and used that)

I really appreciate the expanded details about Cafe Tortoni. We want to go to the show there, but we will have had a huge lunch and don't want another big meal at night. Maybe just a salad and wine - I'll stay away from the hamburger! Someone else posted that the flan was great. Hmmm, wonder how wine and flan go together!

Great report - I guess you are back in NY but it's warmer there than here is Texas when we've been in the 20's and the ground is covered in white. NOT SNOW, darn, it, BUT ICE!

We're coming to NYC in May, so I'll have a lot of questions for you then!!!

raquel_z

not wanting to get picky but brahamama wrote

"BUE is the airport code for Buenos Aires .."

Actually - BUE is the "city code" for Buenos Aires - as opposed to an airport code.

there are 2 airports serving Bs As - Ezeiza (actually the name is Ministro Pistarini International Airport ) whose airport code is EZE and the Aeroparque Jorge Newbery which handles mostly domestic traffic and its airport code is AEP.

Anywy - Granny, thanks for taking the time to post the great report.

raquel