Glover's back - Part II Selva Verde
May 2nd, 2007, 05:20 PM
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Glover's back - Part II Selva Verde
After 5 heavenly days in Casa Linda at Matapalo, we met our driver from Osa Tropical for the trip to Puerto Jimenez airport. Again Nature Air knew who we were when we got there, and everything, from check in, weigh in, departure and flight was super efficient. At Tobias Bolano at about 10:30 am we were picked up by the Selva Verde transport. Eliazar (?) is their transport driver, and he was very nice and patient with my Spanish. He and I chatted all the 2 hours to Selva Verde. He said 2 hours would be good time – traffic can make the trip longer. Enjoyed new scenery on the way, as we’d never gone this direction before.
Was surprised to find entrance to the lodge directly on very busy road – full of big trucks on their way to Limon. I don’t know how they stand it in the reception area. Had them change our room assignment to river room. I had reserved with Holbrook – first asking for bungalow. But somehow my reservation got mislaid and by then there “weren’t any bungalows.” Thought I’d asked for river room so was surprised to find something else arranged. “we thought you’d rather be near the dining room.” Well no, I’d have asked .. . sigh. Anyway they changed us to by the river (only a slight river view – but kind of nice and quieter over there) and indeed a bit of a hike (though on raised and covered walkways) from dining room etc. But really it seemed the place was way less than half full the 3 nights we were there. At first we felt a bit disappointed – tending to notice only the negatives of increased “civilization.” But then we realized it was just a change from being so totally on our own in that idyllic Casa Linda spot. By the next day we loved Selva Verde. Rooms are basic – like summer camp, wood, common balconies with hammocks all around. Covered raised walkways connect all lodging/common areas. Everywhere beautiful foliage and flowers. We could barely get to the dining room what with all the birds, iguanas, and flowers to look at along the way. The dining room is big and open – also reminded me of summer camp – in a nice way. Food is served buffet style, simple food well cooked – usually a pasta, chicken, fish, nice local veggies, salad fixins – great fruit juice combos. We always like this better in CR – we’ve been places where they feel the need to serve up some sort of “continental” fare – sauced meats etc. that aren’t very good.
We met the very interesting Giovanna Holbrook – the owner. Chatted with her for some time about how she came to buy the property and develop the lodge – and what her vision is for the future. They’ve built a nice learning center there for use by the surrounding community – have a library, teach some English classes, a couple computers, etc.
We had arranged in advance for an early am (5:30) birding walk at La Selva. We got rained on there a little but still saw a lot. Our guide, Kenneth, was quite good – a full time employee of La Selva. Saw a sloth, several peccaries wandering around (our first siting) and lots of great birds. Lots of researchers/employees there. A very international spot. Interesting to see – probably would have also enjoyed the “general” tour where you must hear more about the research folks are doing etc. But we didn’t do that.
We did the river wildlife tour another am. Got rained on there too, but that was OK. Saw a caiman, more good birds – including a sun grebe (rather unusual). Very lovely and relaxing cruising down the river – just us and the driver – a nice guy named Jose who turned out to be more knowledgeable about the birds and wildlife than we had expected. Only Spanish though. Then it rained most of the rest of that day – OK by us as we kind of rested in our hammock, journaled, read, sat near the bar and watched the river etc.
As luck would have it it was a spectacular day following and we had till 2pm. Everything all wet and shiny from the rain. We spent most of the day with one of Selva Verde’s guides – Lenin. Went across the river to SV’s reserve and also across the street where the botanical gardens/rooms/bungalows are. Lenin is an EXCELLENT guide. Really focused. Really knows the birds and was incredibly quick with planting the scope. We were in awe of him. We went out with him on our first eve at SV and wrote down 25 species in about an hour and a half. Pretty interesting bird watching that night. There you are in front of the SV gate, practically in the busy two way highway. Every two minutes a huge truck goes by – in between huge truck passings, we’d spot a bird on the hill across the street. Lenin was never phased by any of it. We also went on the night hike with flashlights one night. Interesting, though we didn’t see too much and it was really hot and sweaty that eve. Tons of black and green frogs and the bluejeans frogs – always fun to see. Never managed to get in the pool . .. A tree fell in the forest one night and I certainly heard it!!! Wow, what a startling noise in the middle of the pitch black rain forest. Scarier even than falling fruits on the tin roof in Matapalo.
We had a really nice drive back to San Jose – again with Eliazar. He took us the scenic route – beautiful country – and we stopped at a mirador/place with hummingbird feeders and great view of mountains and waterfall. Gorgeous.
Arrived at Villa Bonita B&B in Alajuela about 5 or so. Sad to say we missed meeting the famous Carmen and Humberto and Filipe – they had gone to Turrialba. We met Eduardo and Pablo instead. But it was a nice eve there. Got ourselves some beers from the kitchen and sat out in the backyard and did – what else?- birdwatching. They’ve got a beautiful orange flowering tree there (some kind of mimosa?). Then we went off to the little Peruvian place down the street recommended by Shillmac (Inte something or other). It’s quite a humble abode – and at first we were skeptical (we were the only ones there) – yet knew Shillmac would not steer us wrong. Sure enough it was a good meal - I had Corvina – husband had chicken kebab.
Up early the next day for fast cab ride – how convenient it is to stay there – would definitely do it again- to airport. And now here we are – back to reality – until next time.
Thanks as always to Shillmac and everyone else on fodors for assorted valuable tips! Hope some of my own treatise will be useful to others!
Was surprised to find entrance to the lodge directly on very busy road – full of big trucks on their way to Limon. I don’t know how they stand it in the reception area. Had them change our room assignment to river room. I had reserved with Holbrook – first asking for bungalow. But somehow my reservation got mislaid and by then there “weren’t any bungalows.” Thought I’d asked for river room so was surprised to find something else arranged. “we thought you’d rather be near the dining room.” Well no, I’d have asked .. . sigh. Anyway they changed us to by the river (only a slight river view – but kind of nice and quieter over there) and indeed a bit of a hike (though on raised and covered walkways) from dining room etc. But really it seemed the place was way less than half full the 3 nights we were there. At first we felt a bit disappointed – tending to notice only the negatives of increased “civilization.” But then we realized it was just a change from being so totally on our own in that idyllic Casa Linda spot. By the next day we loved Selva Verde. Rooms are basic – like summer camp, wood, common balconies with hammocks all around. Covered raised walkways connect all lodging/common areas. Everywhere beautiful foliage and flowers. We could barely get to the dining room what with all the birds, iguanas, and flowers to look at along the way. The dining room is big and open – also reminded me of summer camp – in a nice way. Food is served buffet style, simple food well cooked – usually a pasta, chicken, fish, nice local veggies, salad fixins – great fruit juice combos. We always like this better in CR – we’ve been places where they feel the need to serve up some sort of “continental” fare – sauced meats etc. that aren’t very good.
We met the very interesting Giovanna Holbrook – the owner. Chatted with her for some time about how she came to buy the property and develop the lodge – and what her vision is for the future. They’ve built a nice learning center there for use by the surrounding community – have a library, teach some English classes, a couple computers, etc.
We had arranged in advance for an early am (5:30) birding walk at La Selva. We got rained on there a little but still saw a lot. Our guide, Kenneth, was quite good – a full time employee of La Selva. Saw a sloth, several peccaries wandering around (our first siting) and lots of great birds. Lots of researchers/employees there. A very international spot. Interesting to see – probably would have also enjoyed the “general” tour where you must hear more about the research folks are doing etc. But we didn’t do that.
We did the river wildlife tour another am. Got rained on there too, but that was OK. Saw a caiman, more good birds – including a sun grebe (rather unusual). Very lovely and relaxing cruising down the river – just us and the driver – a nice guy named Jose who turned out to be more knowledgeable about the birds and wildlife than we had expected. Only Spanish though. Then it rained most of the rest of that day – OK by us as we kind of rested in our hammock, journaled, read, sat near the bar and watched the river etc.
As luck would have it it was a spectacular day following and we had till 2pm. Everything all wet and shiny from the rain. We spent most of the day with one of Selva Verde’s guides – Lenin. Went across the river to SV’s reserve and also across the street where the botanical gardens/rooms/bungalows are. Lenin is an EXCELLENT guide. Really focused. Really knows the birds and was incredibly quick with planting the scope. We were in awe of him. We went out with him on our first eve at SV and wrote down 25 species in about an hour and a half. Pretty interesting bird watching that night. There you are in front of the SV gate, practically in the busy two way highway. Every two minutes a huge truck goes by – in between huge truck passings, we’d spot a bird on the hill across the street. Lenin was never phased by any of it. We also went on the night hike with flashlights one night. Interesting, though we didn’t see too much and it was really hot and sweaty that eve. Tons of black and green frogs and the bluejeans frogs – always fun to see. Never managed to get in the pool . .. A tree fell in the forest one night and I certainly heard it!!! Wow, what a startling noise in the middle of the pitch black rain forest. Scarier even than falling fruits on the tin roof in Matapalo.
We had a really nice drive back to San Jose – again with Eliazar. He took us the scenic route – beautiful country – and we stopped at a mirador/place with hummingbird feeders and great view of mountains and waterfall. Gorgeous.
Arrived at Villa Bonita B&B in Alajuela about 5 or so. Sad to say we missed meeting the famous Carmen and Humberto and Filipe – they had gone to Turrialba. We met Eduardo and Pablo instead. But it was a nice eve there. Got ourselves some beers from the kitchen and sat out in the backyard and did – what else?- birdwatching. They’ve got a beautiful orange flowering tree there (some kind of mimosa?). Then we went off to the little Peruvian place down the street recommended by Shillmac (Inte something or other). It’s quite a humble abode – and at first we were skeptical (we were the only ones there) – yet knew Shillmac would not steer us wrong. Sure enough it was a good meal - I had Corvina – husband had chicken kebab.
Up early the next day for fast cab ride – how convenient it is to stay there – would definitely do it again- to airport. And now here we are – back to reality – until next time.
Thanks as always to Shillmac and everyone else on fodors for assorted valuable tips! Hope some of my own treatise will be useful to others!
May 2nd, 2007, 06:39 PM
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Really enjoyed your report. Sorry your bungalow at SV didn't work out. Hopefully Tully will have better luck. Maybe if she sees this before she leaves Friday she can confirm her bungalow so she doesn't get changed as well. This seems to be happening again and again in so many reports (not just at Selva Verde). We ended up in a river view room as well. Those rooms by the road can be noisy. I have suggested several times over the years to people going there that they ask for a room away from the road. I didn't mention it to you because you thought you were booked into the bungalow. Glad you were at least able to get into one of the river rooms.
That San Fernando waterfall stop is always wonderful.
That orange blooming tree may have been the Poro tree. One of our favorites and one of the first that we plan on planting.
That San Fernando waterfall stop is always wonderful.
That orange blooming tree may have been the Poro tree. One of our favorites and one of the first that we plan on planting.
May 2nd, 2007, 06:50 PM
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Thanks for your response, Suzie. Love having the name of that orange tree - and the name of the waterfall, which I'd neglected to write down. Maybe you know the name of the other tree I fell in love with - it was in bloom in Rohrmoser near Casa Roland. Tall tree with fluffy pink flowers. Reminded me of cherry blossoms a bit from afar.
Yeah it was a strange thing about the rooms at SV. We walked up to the bungalows - there didn't appear to be anyone up there at all that we could see. We were happy with our room near the river. And, except for our last night, we think we were the only ones in that fourplex building.
Yeah it was a strange thing about the rooms at SV. We walked up to the bungalows - there didn't appear to be anyone up there at all that we could see. We were happy with our room near the river. And, except for our last night, we think we were the only ones in that fourplex building.
May 2nd, 2007, 07:05 PM
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Totally can identify with the "back to civilization" feel you experienced at Selva Verde. It always seems a little "too too much" until you readjust. . .
What a shame you missed Humberto. He sent and e-mail he was in Turrialba, but I didn't think about them not being there while you were. Pablo is Carmen's brother, and Eduardo is a new employee. They both do a good job, but it's for sure not the same atmosphere and when "the family" is there.
Both Humberto and Carmen hail from Turrialba. His family is still there. Her father, an attorney, and mother recently moved to Alajuela since most of his business seemed to be more in that area and SJO. And they can see Felipe more often, which I'm sure was part reason for the move. Humberto mentioned to me that he is looking into property in Turrialba. I'm so disappointed. . .
but maybe next time!
Glad you liked Inti Raymi. We've eaten there 3 times, and have never been disappointed. Nothing to rave about, but a decent meal for sure. We like the corvina. . .
The little hummingbird gallery where you stopped is one of my favorite places. Held my first tarantula there!
It's such a great place for watching the hummers, having a light snack, some coffee, and of course, the waterfall!
Our friends are leaving Saturday for 12 days and are planning a couple of nights at La Quinta in that area. They are looking forward to La Selva. I'll have to e-mail her about Lenin. . .thanks for sharing that information.
And thanks again for the Panama info. I'm reading Path Between the Seas in preparation! Very interesting. When you have time, brief me (by e-mail) on the Ancon Expedition you did to the Darien. . .
Are you catching up on your sleep?
What a shame you missed Humberto. He sent and e-mail he was in Turrialba, but I didn't think about them not being there while you were. Pablo is Carmen's brother, and Eduardo is a new employee. They both do a good job, but it's for sure not the same atmosphere and when "the family" is there.
Both Humberto and Carmen hail from Turrialba. His family is still there. Her father, an attorney, and mother recently moved to Alajuela since most of his business seemed to be more in that area and SJO. And they can see Felipe more often, which I'm sure was part reason for the move. Humberto mentioned to me that he is looking into property in Turrialba. I'm so disappointed. . .
but maybe next time!
Glad you liked Inti Raymi. We've eaten there 3 times, and have never been disappointed. Nothing to rave about, but a decent meal for sure. We like the corvina. . .
The little hummingbird gallery where you stopped is one of my favorite places. Held my first tarantula there!
It's such a great place for watching the hummers, having a light snack, some coffee, and of course, the waterfall! Our friends are leaving Saturday for 12 days and are planning a couple of nights at La Quinta in that area. They are looking forward to La Selva. I'll have to e-mail her about Lenin. . .thanks for sharing that information.
And thanks again for the Panama info. I'm reading Path Between the Seas in preparation! Very interesting. When you have time, brief me (by e-mail) on the Ancon Expedition you did to the Darien. . .
Are you catching up on your sleep?
May 2nd, 2007, 07:16 PM
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I am reading it and enjoying yur adventure glover.
Thanks
Percy
Thanks
Percy
May 2nd, 2007, 07:18 PM
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I was going to clarify that Lenin is at Selva Verde, Shillmac, but then I remembered that he said he sometimes works for La Selva as well. ... Send me an email if you want contact info for your friend I think my husband got a card from him. We told him to contact us if he ever needed any recs.. And yes, I've not forgotten you'd like more info on Ancon and Darien.
Yeah, I'm kind of catching up on sleep -Did it sound like I didn't sleep well down there what with those falling nuts and trees? I didn't so much actually. But then what else is new?
Yeah, I'm kind of catching up on sleep -Did it sound like I didn't sleep well down there what with those falling nuts and trees? I didn't so much actually. But then what else is new?
May 3rd, 2007, 04:12 AM
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Read this last night but rushing around and didn't get to post. I've been to SV before for lunch so I know what you mean about how crazy it is having that busy road right there. I'm calling Holbrook today to make sure they have me in a bungalow for sure! Maybe I will have the same driver picking me up tomorrow, who knows. Since I have La Selva scheduled on Sunday I will probably take a SV on Saturday, hopefully I will get Lenin as well, sounds like a cool guy. Will probably do either the horse or the river tour as well.
Can I ask how you got to La Selva? Taxi? Was it easy to arrange, how long and how much?
Sounds like all in all you had a fantastic time, glad I got to read before leaving!
Can I ask how you got to La Selva? Taxi? Was it easy to arrange, how long and how much?
Sounds like all in all you had a fantastic time, glad I got to read before leaving!
May 3rd, 2007, 08:16 PM
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Thanks. . I'll get the info to them. They are leaving day after tomorrow. Staying at Selva Verde or La Quinta, I can't remember which. . .
I'm just going to refer them to this post.
I didn't sleep well in March while at Bosque del Cabo. We were on the go ALL the time, hiking all day, and I would to be absolutely exhausted. Just couldn't settle in. .pillow too fat, whatever. I wasn't worried about bugs or anything, wasn't hot. . just couldn't get to sleep. Very frustrating, as I usually don't have that problem in CR.
Have a good weekend!
I'm just going to refer them to this post.
I didn't sleep well in March while at Bosque del Cabo. We were on the go ALL the time, hiking all day, and I would to be absolutely exhausted. Just couldn't settle in. .pillow too fat, whatever. I wasn't worried about bugs or anything, wasn't hot. . just couldn't get to sleep. Very frustrating, as I usually don't have that problem in CR.
Have a good weekend!
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