We will be in Tuscany - farmstay near Montalcino - for 2 weeks this October (eek that's in just a few weeks!). We were there briefly 2 years ago and have done nothing but dream of going back since! Another couple who have never been out of the US but are both professional chefs (one for the Governor of PA) are going with us. Real foodies. We have a kitchen in the villa. We also have a car! Quite an advance in class for former backpackers! I can get by in Italian (lived in Rome for a year). Any way, I was wondering if anyone had recommendations for off-the- beaten- track villages, shops, cheese- makers, wineries, great authentic rustic restaurants, atmospheric ruins, hikes, markets etc. The guidebooks either cover the basics (Siena, San G, Firenze) or go into great detail about frescoes (which only I am interested in), but do not touch on the "small stuff" that seems to make a place come alive. That and the people you meet. Or is it just me? If you have favorite places, sights, memories, meals please share them. I don't want to follow the tourist trail and 2 wks is so short! Mille grazie... <BR>

Hi Jenny, <BR> <BR>I wrote about Fattoria Barbi in the posting about "Italy for Gourmet Travelers". I got the idea from the past hosted forum on Tuscany. Definitely check this place out. I'm a real foodie too. They had great food, wine, and pecorino. A very nice rustic atmosphere. And its not far from Montalcino. Another place nearby was the Abbey of Sant'Antimo. The architecture of this place was amazing. Not much in the way of frescos, but the building was cool and is worth a stop if you're in the neighborhood.

Jenny, I like your choice of locations, <BR>Montalcino in Oct. will be great. Be sure to spend time in Montepulciano and <BR>while there see the San Biagio church <BR>just west of town---the best ristorante <BR>in the area is La Grotta near the church <BR>Also, Do a search and find Castello Banfi---a winery and old castle south of <BR>Montalcino about 6 miles that serves a <BR>6 course fabulous meal with 7 wines. It <BR>will take you about 2.5 hours and cost <BR>you about $40 each but is an experience. <BR>I would also suggest the Abbey of Oliveto Maggiore near Buoncovento for <BR>a side trip--perhaps the day you drive to Siena. The drive from San Quirico to <BR>Pienza is one of the best in Tuscany. <BR>Look for the small chapel on the south <BR>side of the road in the fields and try to find a way to get a good photo of it. <BR>We could not get close enough and ran out of time--if you do, I would love a <BR>copy for my archives. You will have a <BR>great time---I would love to join you if <BR>you have room.

I second the vote for Le Grotte and the San Biagio. They're easy to find, lots of signs. At Le Grotte make sure to order the ricotta pie with coffee sauce for dessert. Also, if you go to Montepulciano, my favorite wine tasting was at the Cantina for Fattoria Del Cerro, which is quite close to the top (they used to be on the Piazza near the Fortezza, but have moved slightly. We found a sign in the old location). They have a lovely little tasting room, where we could sit and chat with the salesperson and relax and taste the wines. Some of the places were kind of brusk with us, but not at Del Cerro. And they had some of the best wines we tasted.

<BR>Hi Jenny, <BR> <BR>You have been reading the wrong guide books. Italy for the Gourmet Traveler highlights special, non-touristy ristoranti, trattorie, and cafes, outdoor markets, food stores, and regional cultural information. It is entertaining and your foodie friends would love it. It's by Fred Plotkin and sells for $19.95. By the way, I'll be there soon too -- leaving Oct.5 for a month in Italy. Buon Viaggio to you -- above advise is all good -- another vote for La Grotta.

We had a fabulous lunch at the Osteria di Brolio on the grounds of Castello di Brolio. The wine wasn't too bad either!

Brava! Thanks to all you wonderful folks for the insider tips and advice. You have made me hungry, thirsty and run out to the bookstore! I will try to hit all your recommendations - and send you a silent hello as I savor the flavors and atmosphere. Bob - I will MAKE time to take that photo for you! Barbara -I was reading the Rough Guide, LP, Rick Steves, et al. All have lots of good info, but the Gourmet Traveler book is a unique treat. Guess thats how we'll recognize each other at the cafe, eh? <BR>Ancora, grazie mille a tutto - <BR>