When does it get cold? A family winter trip to Italy trip report.
Feb 4th, 2007, 08:44 PM
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When does it get cold? A family winter trip to Italy trip report.
Well our trip has come and gone and now there is nothing left to do other than sort photos, souvenirs and reminisce. So this trip report serves several functions – firstly to thank all the wonderful Fodorites for their advice and experience; secondly to (hopefully) give some help to those who follow when they read of my experiences; thirdly to alleviate that aching longing to be back in Italy rather than pretending to work through my lunch hour at work. We had four weeks in Italy, longer than most trips.
Background
We are an Australian family of five, myself, my husband (DH) my 19 yo daughter (DD) and my two teenage sons DS1 (16yo) and DS2 (13yo). For the last week we also had my daughter’s boyfriend (DDBF). For those of you who know Australians who travel you will know that we tend to take long trips because it is such a long way (and quite costly) to get anywhere. Our main holiday period in Australia is in December/January –our summer but a northern winter. So to travel for 4 weeks in winter in Italy did not seem like a strange thing to do at all. In fact plenty of our friends do that. We are also keen skiers and after a disappointing snowfall in Australia last year we decided that surely Europe has got to have plenty of snow – surely. So I began planning the trip in August last year. My husband only had two requests. At least a week’s skiing and Christmas in Rome. So to me that meant skiing in the Dolomites, travelling through Italy. I was keen to travel to only one country so that we could immerse ourselves in one culture.
I started using travel guides including Fodors Italy 2007, Lonely Planet Italy 2006, Michelin Green Guide Italy Rough Guide to Tuscany and Umbria. I quickly became addicted to this board however. I mainly lurked but asked a few questions. These were mostly to get advice about how much driving to do.
I booked mainly three star hotels but we ended up in 2 apartments and also a B&B. As we are a family of five I needed to book 2 rooms each time (a double and a triple/quad). For accommodation bookings I used venere.com and TripAdvisor for reviews. I mostly booked through Venere.com but occasionally emailed the hotel directly. I found the viamichelin.com website invaluable for checking the real location of a hotel. Okay so I am obsessive but I consider location the single most important factor in booking accommodation and I wanted to be sure I was staying where I thought I was staying. We were happy with every single place we stayed in.
We travelled by both car and train and we are glad we did as both have different advantages. I have to say the person who advised me that they have the COMMON SENSE TO NEVER drive in Italy (their capitals) is really missing out. I really can’t see what the problem is. Sure Italians drive fast and cut in quickly and road rules are taken with a grain of salt. But you know they watch the road and I really never felt unsafe. The Autostrade are a piece of cake to drive on, but the dirt roads in Tuscany were also fine. We also had no problem getting out of Rome or into Florence, apart from a couple of easily fixed wrong turns. But on the other hand the trains are also an easy pleasant way to get around even with 6 large bags and 5 small backpacks between us.
So on to the trip….
Background
We are an Australian family of five, myself, my husband (DH) my 19 yo daughter (DD) and my two teenage sons DS1 (16yo) and DS2 (13yo). For the last week we also had my daughter’s boyfriend (DDBF). For those of you who know Australians who travel you will know that we tend to take long trips because it is such a long way (and quite costly) to get anywhere. Our main holiday period in Australia is in December/January –our summer but a northern winter. So to travel for 4 weeks in winter in Italy did not seem like a strange thing to do at all. In fact plenty of our friends do that. We are also keen skiers and after a disappointing snowfall in Australia last year we decided that surely Europe has got to have plenty of snow – surely. So I began planning the trip in August last year. My husband only had two requests. At least a week’s skiing and Christmas in Rome. So to me that meant skiing in the Dolomites, travelling through Italy. I was keen to travel to only one country so that we could immerse ourselves in one culture.
I started using travel guides including Fodors Italy 2007, Lonely Planet Italy 2006, Michelin Green Guide Italy Rough Guide to Tuscany and Umbria. I quickly became addicted to this board however. I mainly lurked but asked a few questions. These were mostly to get advice about how much driving to do.
I booked mainly three star hotels but we ended up in 2 apartments and also a B&B. As we are a family of five I needed to book 2 rooms each time (a double and a triple/quad). For accommodation bookings I used venere.com and TripAdvisor for reviews. I mostly booked through Venere.com but occasionally emailed the hotel directly. I found the viamichelin.com website invaluable for checking the real location of a hotel. Okay so I am obsessive but I consider location the single most important factor in booking accommodation and I wanted to be sure I was staying where I thought I was staying. We were happy with every single place we stayed in.
We travelled by both car and train and we are glad we did as both have different advantages. I have to say the person who advised me that they have the COMMON SENSE TO NEVER drive in Italy (their capitals) is really missing out. I really can’t see what the problem is. Sure Italians drive fast and cut in quickly and road rules are taken with a grain of salt. But you know they watch the road and I really never felt unsafe. The Autostrade are a piece of cake to drive on, but the dirt roads in Tuscany were also fine. We also had no problem getting out of Rome or into Florence, apart from a couple of easily fixed wrong turns. But on the other hand the trains are also an easy pleasant way to get around even with 6 large bags and 5 small backpacks between us.
So on to the trip….
Feb 4th, 2007, 08:46 PM
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Our booked car turned up on time so we had plenty of time for check in and security clearances. We had thought that travelling a few days before Christmas might be busy but Sydney airport was the least crowded I have ever seen it. Lucky we had plenty of time to kill though because as we were driving out to the airport I noticed that DD seemed a bit light on in her hand luggage. When I asked her where her coat might be she looked at me as if I was stupid. Then she looked in her lap and said “would it be on my bed?” A quick conversation with the driver and he arranged for one of his colleagues’ to drive by our house and pick it up. A call to our house sitter to ensure she could find the coat, $50 extra for another taxi and we are fine! This is the same DD who would stay on in Europe for another month later and be travelling without us – not a good start.
We flew Cathay Pacific via Hong Kong – total flying time 22 hrs plus 2hr stopover in HK. Really it is fine – got to catch up on plenty of movie watching.
Arrived in Rome on at 7am (well actually 6.40am as we were early) Friday 22nd December for our first leg.
Rome (5 nights 6 days).
During our 2hour stopover we bumped into a family from the boys’ school who were also going to Rome for Christmas. It’s amazing that no matter how far you go you will always find someone that you have a connection with. They were staying near the Vatican in a convent and getting the airport shuttle. We were staying in a hotel in the Centro Storico and the hotel was sending a pickup. Their driver was there waiting with their name on a sign. Ours wasn’t. No matter. A quick call to the hotel (thank you for advice on website to plug all important numbers into phone) and all was well. Chris, the driver, ran into the terminal a few minutes later and we were on our way. I have been to Rome a couple of times before (although some years ago) and had read a lot about it. Also I have travelled a lot and know that no airport to city drive is really that good as a first impression so I was prepared for the worst. The kids were a little disappointed with their first impressions of Rome. Even the drive past the Colosseum didn’t seem to encourage them too much. However this was all to change very quickly. One thing we were all impressed with (especially DH who was in the front seat) was the driving speed and lane (and I use that term loosely) changing. We arrived at the hotel (Hotel Della Torre Argentina on Corso Vittorio Emmanuele II) and paid Chris (€68). Managed to get into our rooms straight away even though it was still before 9am. We changed and showered and then got out there exploring. The first morning we visited Campo d’Fiori for pizza from il Forno and fruit from the market and cakes from the pasticcerria; then on to Piazza Navona (Piazza letdown as our Aussie friend said). It has Christmas markets in December that I didn’t really find quaint or interesting and the fountain was covered in scaffolding. We did run into our friends and arranged dinner for the Saturday night however. We wondered past the Pantheon then across via del Corso looking for the North American Bishops Office, where we had to pick up our tickets for midnight mass at St Peter’s. We had a map challenged moment for a bit where we stared and stared at the map and street names to eventually find the NABO right across the road from us. Anyway we went in and met the nuns and priests who ran the office. They were so excited for us!! You would think it would be hard to keep up the excitement for all the people who come through to collect their tickets but we really didn’t get that impression. The woman who told us to listen for the Pope’s Bavarian accent especially impressed my sons. We also picked up our audience with the Pope tickets. Overload I hear you say – well I thought so too but my husband, a committed Catholic (as we all are but he is more committed) was insistent about doing ALL the Pope things. So tickets in hand (or rather in money belt as I take no chances) we were free to wander. First stop Trevi fountain. Wow I had forgotten how awuesome this was. We were lucky as there were hardly any people about. We went back to the Pantheon. We marvelled at this and we would return many times over the next few days. We also liked the Piazza del Rotunda enough to experience our first Italian rip off – 2 coffees, 2 hot chocolates 1 gelato for 29euro. I don’t think so – too late DH had paid the bill without question. We then headed in the direction of the Vatican so that we would have time to make to 3pm Scavi tour. On the way we stopped at Castel S’Angelo. Here we got a view of the layout of Rome and our first photos of what would become about 100 of St Peters. The Scavi tour was awesome and a really special way to start seeing the Vatican. It seemed to put everything in context or me. I suddenly thought WOW I am part of a club that has been in this spot for 2000 years. After the Scavi tour we climbed the dome of St Peters. Perfect timing as at 4.30pm it was sunset – also we were the last to be let in so no queue and hardly anyone else up there. When we came down we walked through the church and my husband managed to get us to go to Mass. I thought my sons were going to cry – “it was only the first day, do we have to?” but it was a nice thing to do on our first day there. After that we walked back to our hotel via Governo Vecchio as I was hoping to eat at Da Bafetto. Couldn’t find it so we went to Bafetto 2 in Campo dei Fiori instead. At 7.15pm we were the only ones in there. Still we all enjoyed it.
The next day we had a tour of the Vatican Museums booked with romewalks (www.romewalks.com). We had to meet at 8am at St Peters so to avoid the queue. We had one other couple with us (Steve and Mandy form Maryland) who would also join us the following day on the Ancient Rome tour. There was a very short queue to get in. Our guide (Christine) was amazed. We walked straight in and she said it was the earliest she had ever been at the ticket office. We had 5 hours with her and loved every second of it. Now if I had told my boys that we were spending 5 hours in a museum (even if it did include the Sistine Chapel) they would have complained. But they were as blown away as the rest of us. After the tour we walked over the river towards Via Condotti as we wanted to do a bit of shopping. We stopped at a café in Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina. There were a few there. Ours was very nice. Then we walked to the corner of via Condotti and via del Corso and split up to do some Christmas shopping. It was a challenge trying to buy something decent/different/Italian for less than 50euros each. Still somehow we managed. After we re-united, DH left us to find a church (again!) and the kids and I walked to the Spanish Steps where we sat and admired the view and people and the sellers of rubbishy toys who seem to never give up. And loved every minute. We tried to look at the nativity scene but it stank! Then we wandered back down via del Corso (stopping at a couple of shops) and back to the hotel. On our way I saw a deli and decided to buy some things for our Christmas Eve picnic in St Peters. I had been learning Italian at home and here was the first time I really needed it. No one spoke English. I ordered some cacciatore without incidence and then decided I want some more salami and some cheese. Somehow I got lots of salami and not enough cheese. Anyway I was proud that I did the whole transaction in Italian. Lucky we all like salami. That night we met our friends in Piazza Navona and wandered around until we found a restaurant Unfortunately I wouldn’t recommend it. The food was only average. We also sat outside which proved to be a little chilly. However it was good catching up with our friends.
Net Christmas in Rome - magic.
We flew Cathay Pacific via Hong Kong – total flying time 22 hrs plus 2hr stopover in HK. Really it is fine – got to catch up on plenty of movie watching.
Arrived in Rome on at 7am (well actually 6.40am as we were early) Friday 22nd December for our first leg.
Rome (5 nights 6 days).
During our 2hour stopover we bumped into a family from the boys’ school who were also going to Rome for Christmas. It’s amazing that no matter how far you go you will always find someone that you have a connection with. They were staying near the Vatican in a convent and getting the airport shuttle. We were staying in a hotel in the Centro Storico and the hotel was sending a pickup. Their driver was there waiting with their name on a sign. Ours wasn’t. No matter. A quick call to the hotel (thank you for advice on website to plug all important numbers into phone) and all was well. Chris, the driver, ran into the terminal a few minutes later and we were on our way. I have been to Rome a couple of times before (although some years ago) and had read a lot about it. Also I have travelled a lot and know that no airport to city drive is really that good as a first impression so I was prepared for the worst. The kids were a little disappointed with their first impressions of Rome. Even the drive past the Colosseum didn’t seem to encourage them too much. However this was all to change very quickly. One thing we were all impressed with (especially DH who was in the front seat) was the driving speed and lane (and I use that term loosely) changing. We arrived at the hotel (Hotel Della Torre Argentina on Corso Vittorio Emmanuele II) and paid Chris (€68). Managed to get into our rooms straight away even though it was still before 9am. We changed and showered and then got out there exploring. The first morning we visited Campo d’Fiori for pizza from il Forno and fruit from the market and cakes from the pasticcerria; then on to Piazza Navona (Piazza letdown as our Aussie friend said). It has Christmas markets in December that I didn’t really find quaint or interesting and the fountain was covered in scaffolding. We did run into our friends and arranged dinner for the Saturday night however. We wondered past the Pantheon then across via del Corso looking for the North American Bishops Office, where we had to pick up our tickets for midnight mass at St Peter’s. We had a map challenged moment for a bit where we stared and stared at the map and street names to eventually find the NABO right across the road from us. Anyway we went in and met the nuns and priests who ran the office. They were so excited for us!! You would think it would be hard to keep up the excitement for all the people who come through to collect their tickets but we really didn’t get that impression. The woman who told us to listen for the Pope’s Bavarian accent especially impressed my sons. We also picked up our audience with the Pope tickets. Overload I hear you say – well I thought so too but my husband, a committed Catholic (as we all are but he is more committed) was insistent about doing ALL the Pope things. So tickets in hand (or rather in money belt as I take no chances) we were free to wander. First stop Trevi fountain. Wow I had forgotten how awuesome this was. We were lucky as there were hardly any people about. We went back to the Pantheon. We marvelled at this and we would return many times over the next few days. We also liked the Piazza del Rotunda enough to experience our first Italian rip off – 2 coffees, 2 hot chocolates 1 gelato for 29euro. I don’t think so – too late DH had paid the bill without question. We then headed in the direction of the Vatican so that we would have time to make to 3pm Scavi tour. On the way we stopped at Castel S’Angelo. Here we got a view of the layout of Rome and our first photos of what would become about 100 of St Peters. The Scavi tour was awesome and a really special way to start seeing the Vatican. It seemed to put everything in context or me. I suddenly thought WOW I am part of a club that has been in this spot for 2000 years. After the Scavi tour we climbed the dome of St Peters. Perfect timing as at 4.30pm it was sunset – also we were the last to be let in so no queue and hardly anyone else up there. When we came down we walked through the church and my husband managed to get us to go to Mass. I thought my sons were going to cry – “it was only the first day, do we have to?” but it was a nice thing to do on our first day there. After that we walked back to our hotel via Governo Vecchio as I was hoping to eat at Da Bafetto. Couldn’t find it so we went to Bafetto 2 in Campo dei Fiori instead. At 7.15pm we were the only ones in there. Still we all enjoyed it.
The next day we had a tour of the Vatican Museums booked with romewalks (www.romewalks.com). We had to meet at 8am at St Peters so to avoid the queue. We had one other couple with us (Steve and Mandy form Maryland) who would also join us the following day on the Ancient Rome tour. There was a very short queue to get in. Our guide (Christine) was amazed. We walked straight in and she said it was the earliest she had ever been at the ticket office. We had 5 hours with her and loved every second of it. Now if I had told my boys that we were spending 5 hours in a museum (even if it did include the Sistine Chapel) they would have complained. But they were as blown away as the rest of us. After the tour we walked over the river towards Via Condotti as we wanted to do a bit of shopping. We stopped at a café in Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina. There were a few there. Ours was very nice. Then we walked to the corner of via Condotti and via del Corso and split up to do some Christmas shopping. It was a challenge trying to buy something decent/different/Italian for less than 50euros each. Still somehow we managed. After we re-united, DH left us to find a church (again!) and the kids and I walked to the Spanish Steps where we sat and admired the view and people and the sellers of rubbishy toys who seem to never give up. And loved every minute. We tried to look at the nativity scene but it stank! Then we wandered back down via del Corso (stopping at a couple of shops) and back to the hotel. On our way I saw a deli and decided to buy some things for our Christmas Eve picnic in St Peters. I had been learning Italian at home and here was the first time I really needed it. No one spoke English. I ordered some cacciatore without incidence and then decided I want some more salami and some cheese. Somehow I got lots of salami and not enough cheese. Anyway I was proud that I did the whole transaction in Italian. Lucky we all like salami. That night we met our friends in Piazza Navona and wandered around until we found a restaurant Unfortunately I wouldn’t recommend it. The food was only average. We also sat outside which proved to be a little chilly. However it was good catching up with our friends.
Net Christmas in Rome - magic.
Feb 5th, 2007, 12:59 PM
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Okay Rome for Christmas
Sunday morning (24th December), we had our tour of Ancient Rome booked with romewalks. We met our guide and fellow tourists near the metro stop at 9.30am. We very much enjoyed this tour and in the end DH and I voted our guide (Maria Grazia) to be our favourite tour guide of the trip. After the tour we walked up to Da Nerone for lunch but it was closed. So we walked to a touristy restaurant on via Cavour instead and ate happily and drank the grappa they provided us free of charge. Then we visited San Pietro in Vicolo and walked slowly back to the hotel through Campodiglio and past Largo Argentina. We added to our picnic supplies from the local supermarket – over purchasing as usual.
At 7.30pm and dressed warmly we set off for our walk to St Peter’s square, prepared for our 2 –3 hour wait. The queue already seemed quite long but it was quickly added to. Whilst we waited we ate our picnic and chatted to a nice young couple from New Orleans and a nice German couple. The time seemed to pass incredibly quickly which was lucky as the weather was getting pretty chilly. At 10pm the doors opened and the line moved. By 10.45 we were running (yes running) into the church. We were lucky to get good seats on the side but looking directly at the altar only about 20 rows back. We could see everything that was going on and even the expression on the Pope’s face. The service was in a combination of Latin, Italian and a smattering of other languages, where English featured. I found it very moving. The service was over at about 1.30am and we walked back to our hotel with what seemed like half of Rome. I had read here that we might expect the streets to be quiet at this time but this was not so at all. There were a few taxis around I noticed but we did not need one.
On Christmas morning we slept in until the last time that breakfast was served. After breakfast we swapped presents and then set off to St Peters again to hear the Pope’s message. We stood in the sun with thousands of others whilst he came out on the balcony and spoke in what seemed like every language (even Esperanto). After this we wandered down to the river past all the souvenir stores, which were all open and doing a roaring trade. We walked across the river through the streets which were now quite quiet to the Spanish Steps. We climbed these and headed towards the Borghese Gardens. When we arrived there we hired two of the 4-wheeled bikes for an hour. With the kids in one and DH and I in the other we had great fun riding around the park. After this we walked to Pincio and looked out over Piazza de Popolo and all of Rome. Then we walked down into Piazza de Popolo. All the cafes’ were now open but we decided to keep walking down via del Corso. Now all of Rome had really come out. The roads were close doff to traffic and they were full of people walking. We walked and window shopped and then went to Trevi fountain just as the light was fading. We waited until it was lit up. Now the place was crowded. We had a café stop and enjoyed the busy atmosphere. Then we walked back to get changed for dinner. We had noticed a number of places open so we decided to just wander and choose one as we walked. The one we chose had lots of people in it and even people sitting outside. It was near the Pantheon (L’Arcano). Even though we didn’t have a typical Christmas dinner (not turkey in sight) we enjoyed our meal here.
I had left the 26th unplanned other than a booking at Galleria Borghese at 5pm. I knew that it would be a public holiday (it is in Australia too). In the end we decided to catch the Archeobus and visit the catacombs. I had read that it left Piazza Venezia at 10am. So we walked there but not before visiting Sopre Minerva and Gesu churches. I particularly liked Sopre Minerva. We found the Archeobus stop in Pizza Venezia and the sign said it leaves Termini at 9.45am. We debated whether that meant we had missed it or not as it was now 9.50am. Just then the bus rounded the corner. There were only a few seats left so I encouraged my kids to be kids which meant they grabbed 5 seats together. We were warned that the service would be limited to once an hour that day. The bus goes past Aventine Hill past Terme de Caracalla an then onto vis Appia. You can get on and off at any stop once you have the tickets. There is also a pretty good commentary. We got off at the San Callista catacombs. After we got back on the Archeobus (an hour later) the bus took us further along the via Appia which we really liked. It is a lovely ride in the countryside with ruins all along the road. Then the bus goes to Aqueduct Park where it makes a stop of 5 – 10 minutes. So everyone got off and walked around taking photos. Some stayed but we got back on the bus and went back to La Bocca della Verita. Amazingly we all have our hands (even my youngest son!!). Then we walked along past Circus Maximus towards the Colloseum. We wanted to visit San Clemente but it was too early, but not too early to eat. So we had lunch in a trattoria in via dei Ss Quattro (there are a few there and can’t remember the name). Well replenished we arrived at San Clemente at exactly 3pm. We loved this church on 3 (or was it 4) levels. When we had finished there it was nearly 4pm. We were supposed to be at Galleria Borghese at 4.30pm to pick up our booked tickets. We had not caught public transport yet and the family decided that now was not going to be the time to start. So we walked (well I ran) all the way up to the gallery. I was panicking that we would miss out on our booking. Of course when we got there we found that there were plenty of tickets left and we probably could have got away without booking. We all loved the gallery. DS1 decided that he would become a sculptor (I think that moment has past now though). We walked back to the hotel in a more relaxed mode and got ready for dinner. I had hoped to eat at Ditirambo in Campo dei Fiori. However when we arrived at nearly 9pm it was full. They said we could wait for three quarters of an hour or we could go to their sister restaurant across the road – Grappolo D’Oro. We chose the latter. The setting is a little more modern than other restaurants we had seen but the food was delicious.
We woke to our last day in Rome with mixed emotions. We were sad to be leaving this fantastic city but excited to move on to the next place. We were also a little nervous as today we would be driving. But first we had the audience with the Pope to conquer. We had to pack and check out first. We left the luggage at the hotel and walked the now familiar walk to St Peters. It was about 9.30am for a 10.30 am start. When we got there it was very noisy with chanting and singing more like a football game than anything. We were at the back of a crowd of 10,000 people in the auditorium. We didn’t get to shake his hand but it was certainly an interesting experience although I wouldn’t say deeply spiritual.
Next stop - Sorrento
Sunday morning (24th December), we had our tour of Ancient Rome booked with romewalks. We met our guide and fellow tourists near the metro stop at 9.30am. We very much enjoyed this tour and in the end DH and I voted our guide (Maria Grazia) to be our favourite tour guide of the trip. After the tour we walked up to Da Nerone for lunch but it was closed. So we walked to a touristy restaurant on via Cavour instead and ate happily and drank the grappa they provided us free of charge. Then we visited San Pietro in Vicolo and walked slowly back to the hotel through Campodiglio and past Largo Argentina. We added to our picnic supplies from the local supermarket – over purchasing as usual.
At 7.30pm and dressed warmly we set off for our walk to St Peter’s square, prepared for our 2 –3 hour wait. The queue already seemed quite long but it was quickly added to. Whilst we waited we ate our picnic and chatted to a nice young couple from New Orleans and a nice German couple. The time seemed to pass incredibly quickly which was lucky as the weather was getting pretty chilly. At 10pm the doors opened and the line moved. By 10.45 we were running (yes running) into the church. We were lucky to get good seats on the side but looking directly at the altar only about 20 rows back. We could see everything that was going on and even the expression on the Pope’s face. The service was in a combination of Latin, Italian and a smattering of other languages, where English featured. I found it very moving. The service was over at about 1.30am and we walked back to our hotel with what seemed like half of Rome. I had read here that we might expect the streets to be quiet at this time but this was not so at all. There were a few taxis around I noticed but we did not need one.
On Christmas morning we slept in until the last time that breakfast was served. After breakfast we swapped presents and then set off to St Peters again to hear the Pope’s message. We stood in the sun with thousands of others whilst he came out on the balcony and spoke in what seemed like every language (even Esperanto). After this we wandered down to the river past all the souvenir stores, which were all open and doing a roaring trade. We walked across the river through the streets which were now quite quiet to the Spanish Steps. We climbed these and headed towards the Borghese Gardens. When we arrived there we hired two of the 4-wheeled bikes for an hour. With the kids in one and DH and I in the other we had great fun riding around the park. After this we walked to Pincio and looked out over Piazza de Popolo and all of Rome. Then we walked down into Piazza de Popolo. All the cafes’ were now open but we decided to keep walking down via del Corso. Now all of Rome had really come out. The roads were close doff to traffic and they were full of people walking. We walked and window shopped and then went to Trevi fountain just as the light was fading. We waited until it was lit up. Now the place was crowded. We had a café stop and enjoyed the busy atmosphere. Then we walked back to get changed for dinner. We had noticed a number of places open so we decided to just wander and choose one as we walked. The one we chose had lots of people in it and even people sitting outside. It was near the Pantheon (L’Arcano). Even though we didn’t have a typical Christmas dinner (not turkey in sight) we enjoyed our meal here.
I had left the 26th unplanned other than a booking at Galleria Borghese at 5pm. I knew that it would be a public holiday (it is in Australia too). In the end we decided to catch the Archeobus and visit the catacombs. I had read that it left Piazza Venezia at 10am. So we walked there but not before visiting Sopre Minerva and Gesu churches. I particularly liked Sopre Minerva. We found the Archeobus stop in Pizza Venezia and the sign said it leaves Termini at 9.45am. We debated whether that meant we had missed it or not as it was now 9.50am. Just then the bus rounded the corner. There were only a few seats left so I encouraged my kids to be kids which meant they grabbed 5 seats together. We were warned that the service would be limited to once an hour that day. The bus goes past Aventine Hill past Terme de Caracalla an then onto vis Appia. You can get on and off at any stop once you have the tickets. There is also a pretty good commentary. We got off at the San Callista catacombs. After we got back on the Archeobus (an hour later) the bus took us further along the via Appia which we really liked. It is a lovely ride in the countryside with ruins all along the road. Then the bus goes to Aqueduct Park where it makes a stop of 5 – 10 minutes. So everyone got off and walked around taking photos. Some stayed but we got back on the bus and went back to La Bocca della Verita. Amazingly we all have our hands (even my youngest son!!). Then we walked along past Circus Maximus towards the Colloseum. We wanted to visit San Clemente but it was too early, but not too early to eat. So we had lunch in a trattoria in via dei Ss Quattro (there are a few there and can’t remember the name). Well replenished we arrived at San Clemente at exactly 3pm. We loved this church on 3 (or was it 4) levels. When we had finished there it was nearly 4pm. We were supposed to be at Galleria Borghese at 4.30pm to pick up our booked tickets. We had not caught public transport yet and the family decided that now was not going to be the time to start. So we walked (well I ran) all the way up to the gallery. I was panicking that we would miss out on our booking. Of course when we got there we found that there were plenty of tickets left and we probably could have got away without booking. We all loved the gallery. DS1 decided that he would become a sculptor (I think that moment has past now though). We walked back to the hotel in a more relaxed mode and got ready for dinner. I had hoped to eat at Ditirambo in Campo dei Fiori. However when we arrived at nearly 9pm it was full. They said we could wait for three quarters of an hour or we could go to their sister restaurant across the road – Grappolo D’Oro. We chose the latter. The setting is a little more modern than other restaurants we had seen but the food was delicious.
We woke to our last day in Rome with mixed emotions. We were sad to be leaving this fantastic city but excited to move on to the next place. We were also a little nervous as today we would be driving. But first we had the audience with the Pope to conquer. We had to pack and check out first. We left the luggage at the hotel and walked the now familiar walk to St Peters. It was about 9.30am for a 10.30 am start. When we got there it was very noisy with chanting and singing more like a football game than anything. We were at the back of a crowd of 10,000 people in the auditorium. We didn’t get to shake his hand but it was certainly an interesting experience although I wouldn’t say deeply spiritual.
Next stop - Sorrento
Feb 5th, 2007, 05:42 PM
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We had booked a taxi to take us to Termini where we were picking up our car. Somehow we got 5 people and 6 bags plus assorted totes into this tiny car. The driver dropped us the carpark in Via Giolitti but having lugged all our bags up we found that we had to book in at the office in the station complex. We decided that we would leave the kids and the luggage in the carpark. It looked a little creepy but the attendant was there and we didn’t think we would be long. Well these things take a while, don’t they? Finally we got the keys and loaded into the manual 7-seater Peugeot. DH decided it might be a good idea to drive around the carpark first. Good idea as it took several goes to find reverse. But joy oh joy there was a computer with a GPS that spoke English in the car. I had plenty of maps with me but we were very glad to have this added bonus. We immediately nicknamed the GPS Isobel and she directed us out of the carpark towards the GRA using the roads that my maps had told me to take. Our first grateful Isobel moment was when the main route to the GRA was closed. Isobel calmly directed us on another route (and we calmly followed her). We travelled the Autostrada without incident and got to the Sorrento turn off. Somehow we missed the turnoff! This was to become afeature of our driving. DH just didn’t seem to believe either Isobel or me when we said turn right NOW. Anyway luckily Isobel knew what she was doing and she re-programmed and got us off at the next exit (I think). The fun began then. I am not really sure where we were – I would say Castellmare di Stabia – but then who am I to know. We had a few wrong turns and Isobel asking us to “when possible go back”. Our best moment was when we had to wait at a level crossing. We thought we were near the front and waiting for the train to pass. In the mean time about 40 bikes and cars somehow got in front of us. As the gate opened they were off like it was the Indianapolis 500. Very funny. Finally we found ourselves heading to what seemed like cliffs by the water type scenery. It was dark now so we couldn’t be sure. Isobel said we had about 6kms to go. I called the hotel in Sorrento to tell them we would be there soon. Then Isobel had a flight of fancy (okay I found out later that it is the programmer who is at fault but I think Isobel should have known better). She led us up this tiny steep road. We kept going up and up and the road was getting narrower and narrower so that we could only just fit until… well let’s say we couldn’t fit anymore. Even with the fold in mirrors we had trouble fitting. So DH reversed back down the steep narrow street. We all took a deep breath and decided that we would follow all the traffic on the main road from now. Later I found I had programmed Isobel to take the shortest route not the quickest. Live and learn! Finally we were only 2 kms from our destination but there was another problem – the traffic didn’t seem to be moving. Another call to the hotel to say it might be a little longer. After what seemed like an eternity (and was at least 45minutes) we arrived at the hotel – Rota Suites. The concierge, Guiseppe, was waiting for us and I apologised. He smiled and said you know what they say Rome to Sorrento 2 hours, Castellmare to Sorrento 3 hours. Oh so this is normal! We love Italy! The only thing to do now was park that car. There was just enough room to get it down the narrow driveway into the parking area. Guiseppe advised us not to take the car out unless we were driving the Amalfi Coast, everywhere else was easier by public transport. We took his advice.
Feb 5th, 2007, 06:57 PM
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This is so much fun to read, thank you!
I am amazed at how much you did your first day after that long flight. Wow! I was just watching a Passport To Europe show this morning on Rome and it make me start to think about a return trip. And now reading about your trip...well, I think my planning might get a kickstart, lol!
I am amazed at how much you did your first day after that long flight. Wow! I was just watching a Passport To Europe show this morning on Rome and it make me start to think about a return trip. And now reading about your trip...well, I think my planning might get a kickstart, lol!
Feb 5th, 2007, 06:59 PM
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Hi samsmom - I have been following your questions on this board and thought you must be travelling about the same time as me. We loved loved loved Rome. It is an easy city to navigate and fun. We could not believe the weather, it was warm. The kids even stopped takin gout their coats.
Tim and Liz have a great time I am jealous as i fear it will be quite some time before I can return.
Tim and Liz have a great time I am jealous as i fear it will be quite some time before I can return.
Feb 5th, 2007, 09:08 PM
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We had a fantastic two days in Sorrento. We loved our apartment at Rota Suites, clean modern and a kitchen so we could prepare meals and save money (well sort of). Our first day we went to Isle of Capri. This proved to be perhaps our most expensive day and we took a packed lunch! We saw the Blue Grotto, where you catch several boats to get it and each boat costs around 10euro each. However we did enjoy it. We took the bus to Anacapri and caught the chairlift up. I highly recommend this. The views are spectacular. We also rather enjoyed walking through Capri and looking at the expensive shops and having a drink in a café on the main square, feeling we were part of the ritzy crowd. We left Capri after dark and having had a long, expensive day we ate in our apartment.
The second day we visited Pompei in the morning and took a two-hour tour with Stefano (one of the guides who wait at the entrance). Stefano was rather suave and obviously popular as he took a number of calls on his phone during the tour but it did not interfere with our enjoyment 9in fact it rather added to it). We loved this tour and DH and I would have liked to have spent more time there. However we had also decided to go to Mt Vesuvius on the same day. We caught a bus from near Pompei that took us to near to the top of the volcano. But not before doing a strange detour to a run down old souvenir shop that is run by the apparent “gatekeeper” of the volcano and his daughter. The gatekeeper was a lift operator when the chairlift used to run ip the side of the mountain. We were forced to listen to their history and strongly encouraged to buy their book for 10euro which was autographed by the “gatekeeper”. Ridiculously we bought the book, as did the backpackers on the bus. We couldn’t find any reference to the gatekeeper in the book. Although I am glad to say I have been to the top of Mt Vesuvius I would not rush back there again.
That night we ate dinner out at a small trattoria near Piazza Tasso (can’t remember the name of it). We also wandered around and bought Limoncello (which we are still enjoying..yumm). The town was packed with people and while at dinner we found out why. Gloria Gaynor was playing in the Piazza. Of course we had to stay and watch her – I was not leaving before I heard I will Survive. I have to say she only just survived the song. How old is she?
On our final day we checked out by 9am so that we would have plenty of time to drive down the Amalfi Coast before heading up to Tuscany. I had read a lot about this drive, some of which made me a little nervous. Let me say that we love drives, do a lot of long scenic drives and are very used to steep windy roads, often dirt. The drive itself is simple. Being winter the road was busy without being uncomfortably so. The scenery though lived up to every expectation that I had. We used the pullout bays many times to stop and take photos. It also afforded DH the chance to take in the scenery without risking all our lives and those of others. We stopped at a beach where we could park easily (I think it was near Praiano). We had a picnic on the beach and then the males in our family decided to have a swim. I dipped my feet in the water. It was not very cold (in fact it was much warmer than the Sydney surf that we were to experience a few weeks later). Finally at about 4pm we approached Salerno and Isobel directed us onto the highway for our drive to Tuscany.
Coming up Tuscan hill towns…
The second day we visited Pompei in the morning and took a two-hour tour with Stefano (one of the guides who wait at the entrance). Stefano was rather suave and obviously popular as he took a number of calls on his phone during the tour but it did not interfere with our enjoyment 9in fact it rather added to it). We loved this tour and DH and I would have liked to have spent more time there. However we had also decided to go to Mt Vesuvius on the same day. We caught a bus from near Pompei that took us to near to the top of the volcano. But not before doing a strange detour to a run down old souvenir shop that is run by the apparent “gatekeeper” of the volcano and his daughter. The gatekeeper was a lift operator when the chairlift used to run ip the side of the mountain. We were forced to listen to their history and strongly encouraged to buy their book for 10euro which was autographed by the “gatekeeper”. Ridiculously we bought the book, as did the backpackers on the bus. We couldn’t find any reference to the gatekeeper in the book. Although I am glad to say I have been to the top of Mt Vesuvius I would not rush back there again.
That night we ate dinner out at a small trattoria near Piazza Tasso (can’t remember the name of it). We also wandered around and bought Limoncello (which we are still enjoying..yumm). The town was packed with people and while at dinner we found out why. Gloria Gaynor was playing in the Piazza. Of course we had to stay and watch her – I was not leaving before I heard I will Survive. I have to say she only just survived the song. How old is she?
On our final day we checked out by 9am so that we would have plenty of time to drive down the Amalfi Coast before heading up to Tuscany. I had read a lot about this drive, some of which made me a little nervous. Let me say that we love drives, do a lot of long scenic drives and are very used to steep windy roads, often dirt. The drive itself is simple. Being winter the road was busy without being uncomfortably so. The scenery though lived up to every expectation that I had. We used the pullout bays many times to stop and take photos. It also afforded DH the chance to take in the scenery without risking all our lives and those of others. We stopped at a beach where we could park easily (I think it was near Praiano). We had a picnic on the beach and then the males in our family decided to have a swim. I dipped my feet in the water. It was not very cold (in fact it was much warmer than the Sydney surf that we were to experience a few weeks later). Finally at about 4pm we approached Salerno and Isobel directed us onto the highway for our drive to Tuscany.
Coming up Tuscan hill towns…
Feb 5th, 2007, 09:26 PM
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Beautiful trip report aussiefive and no doubt you and your family will remember your time in Italy forever. And yes, you did so much the day you arrived in Rome, I am impressed! Thanks for sharing your trip and I sure look forward to reading the next installment. Cheers!
Feb 6th, 2007, 02:30 PM
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Thank you all for your kind thoughts. I am enjoying writing this report and re-living my time. Unfortunately a little thing called work is interrupting me right now LOL. You know we didn't really think we were doing so much on that first day. We just kept walking in an excited manner. I used a pedometer for the first few days and we walked nearly 10 kms that day. Not bad after a 22 hour flight!
May 3rd, 2007, 09:48 PM
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I was just a little delayed in finishing my report. Here is the next chapter…
Our trip up the Autostrade was pretty easy. We found the turn off easily but again DH decided not to believe us when we said to take the next exit. And so we ended up in a carpark. A little hissy fit from me and we were safely on our way again. By this point we ditched the map entirely as Isobella seemed to have a very good idea where to go. There were constant signs pointing to our destination, San Quirico D’Orcia – or San Quirico di Orico as my sons insisted on calling it. We found San Quirico easily so all we had to do was find the Palazzo del Capitano. In a town so small that should be pretty easy but somehow we had to drive around twice, call the hotel and ask for directions, twice and finally ask a handsome young Tuscan man for directions. At last arriviamo! The Palazzo de Capitano is a lovely hotel as many people on Fodors will know. In fact I was really determined to stay here after reading MaitaiTom’s report. We had booked the family suite which comprised of an upstairs bedroom for DH and me and a downstairs room for the kids. It would have been nice to have a more romantic double room only but the room(s) were still beautiful. And DH and ican always come back for a romantic trip. We checked in and walked down to the main square for dinner. We ate at Bar Centrale. This was the cheapest meal we had in Italy and was very nice. Finally I had a use for my Italian classes as there was very little English spoken here. We walked around a bit marvelling at the fact that we were really in an old Tuscan town.
Sunday and New Years Eve. We decided to visit Siena. I had asked Stu Dudley for his notes and what a great resource this proved to be. We drove up to Siena (about 1.5 hours). We followed Stu’s directions and parked at the Southern gate. WE stupidly passed by several parking places that were a walk of about 300 metres in he hope that we would have a shorter walk. When we went back of course they were gone. So we finally found one with a walk of about 500 metres. Still not too bad and it was free. My first impressions of Siena was that it wasn’t quite what I was expecting. It was a grey old day but it seemed a bit dreary. We walked down the street heading towards the Campo. On the way we peeked into chriches because being Sunday we thought we should try to get to mass. We found one. For once the kids didn’t mind too much when they realised that they were up to the offertory already. It took a little while to figure out as our Italian language seemed to desert us for a while.
It was New Years Eve. When I had booked at the Palazzo del Capitano I was told that I had to book dinner in their restaurant Forno Del Vecchio, for New Years Eve. It was a fixed menu. I was hoping for a Tuscan feast and we got it. We were the only English speakers in the restaurant and even the waiters had only a limited grasp of the language (granted better than my Italian). We asked for a translation of the menu so we would know what to order. Well no need. There was an antipasto, 3 primi and 3 secondi plus dolce on the menu and you guessed it, we got them all. Plus DH and I shared a rather nice Nobile de Montelpulciano and we all had complimentary prosecco to start and at midnight. DS13 was feeling pretty chuffed with himself that he was allowed to drink it. At midnight the whole restaurant danced then we flooded out onto to the piazza where the locals let off very loud fireworks. Not pretty, just loud. I remembered why it was that private fireworks are banned in Australia. I was terrified someone would lose an eye. And the sound reverberated through the stones right up into your chest.
The next day was New Year’s Day – we had a sleep in, another good breakfast and then went for a drive to Bagno Vignoni. For some reason, we thought we might be able to swim here. We felt like the stupid b***y Aussies that we looked like and snuck our swimmers back into the car. Then we drove to Montalcino and San Antimo. We missed the Gregorian chants but enjoyed the experience anyway. We returned back to San Quirico dinner. In this restaurant (sorry have not got the name of it) we were one of only two tables. Food was good – I had delicious Ravioli con Burro e Salvio. We wanted desert but there was no menu. Our waitress took quite a while to encourage us to have Vin Santo. The first of many in Tuscany for me.
The next day was my birthday. Normally DH plans my birthday celebration but he really hadn’t done his homework so I organised it. He did organise a picnic lunch to be prepared by the hotel. We drove to Pienza, bought some cheese, walked around town, admired views, got a parking ticket then drove off. We drove using Stu Dudley’s directions to Monitchiello. Walked around this tiny, pretty town and then drove down (up?, up and down) the dirt road and stopped where we found a quintessential Tuscan view and had our picnic of cheese, salami sandwiches, Brunello di Montalcino, cake. Then we drove towards Montepulcino but the kids had had enough of hill towns. We drove off but had to stop quickly as DD felt carsick and wasted her lunch on the Tuscan bushes. After a bit we drove down the first road we could find and just set off. Eventually we realised we were headed to the Radicofani. We had been told of its importance in the area’s history so we had to go. The views were beautiful and the fort contained an interesting exhibit of artefacts. We then took our chances and drove home down every dirt road we could find to get the most out of our last afternoon in this area. Back at the hotel DH and I enjoyed a glass or too of the Brunello and sat in the lovely garden looking at the full moon.
Our trip up the Autostrade was pretty easy. We found the turn off easily but again DH decided not to believe us when we said to take the next exit. And so we ended up in a carpark. A little hissy fit from me and we were safely on our way again. By this point we ditched the map entirely as Isobella seemed to have a very good idea where to go. There were constant signs pointing to our destination, San Quirico D’Orcia – or San Quirico di Orico as my sons insisted on calling it. We found San Quirico easily so all we had to do was find the Palazzo del Capitano. In a town so small that should be pretty easy but somehow we had to drive around twice, call the hotel and ask for directions, twice and finally ask a handsome young Tuscan man for directions. At last arriviamo! The Palazzo de Capitano is a lovely hotel as many people on Fodors will know. In fact I was really determined to stay here after reading MaitaiTom’s report. We had booked the family suite which comprised of an upstairs bedroom for DH and me and a downstairs room for the kids. It would have been nice to have a more romantic double room only but the room(s) were still beautiful. And DH and ican always come back for a romantic trip. We checked in and walked down to the main square for dinner. We ate at Bar Centrale. This was the cheapest meal we had in Italy and was very nice. Finally I had a use for my Italian classes as there was very little English spoken here. We walked around a bit marvelling at the fact that we were really in an old Tuscan town.
Sunday and New Years Eve. We decided to visit Siena. I had asked Stu Dudley for his notes and what a great resource this proved to be. We drove up to Siena (about 1.5 hours). We followed Stu’s directions and parked at the Southern gate. WE stupidly passed by several parking places that were a walk of about 300 metres in he hope that we would have a shorter walk. When we went back of course they were gone. So we finally found one with a walk of about 500 metres. Still not too bad and it was free. My first impressions of Siena was that it wasn’t quite what I was expecting. It was a grey old day but it seemed a bit dreary. We walked down the street heading towards the Campo. On the way we peeked into chriches because being Sunday we thought we should try to get to mass. We found one. For once the kids didn’t mind too much when they realised that they were up to the offertory already. It took a little while to figure out as our Italian language seemed to desert us for a while.
It was New Years Eve. When I had booked at the Palazzo del Capitano I was told that I had to book dinner in their restaurant Forno Del Vecchio, for New Years Eve. It was a fixed menu. I was hoping for a Tuscan feast and we got it. We were the only English speakers in the restaurant and even the waiters had only a limited grasp of the language (granted better than my Italian). We asked for a translation of the menu so we would know what to order. Well no need. There was an antipasto, 3 primi and 3 secondi plus dolce on the menu and you guessed it, we got them all. Plus DH and I shared a rather nice Nobile de Montelpulciano and we all had complimentary prosecco to start and at midnight. DS13 was feeling pretty chuffed with himself that he was allowed to drink it. At midnight the whole restaurant danced then we flooded out onto to the piazza where the locals let off very loud fireworks. Not pretty, just loud. I remembered why it was that private fireworks are banned in Australia. I was terrified someone would lose an eye. And the sound reverberated through the stones right up into your chest.
The next day was New Year’s Day – we had a sleep in, another good breakfast and then went for a drive to Bagno Vignoni. For some reason, we thought we might be able to swim here. We felt like the stupid b***y Aussies that we looked like and snuck our swimmers back into the car. Then we drove to Montalcino and San Antimo. We missed the Gregorian chants but enjoyed the experience anyway. We returned back to San Quirico dinner. In this restaurant (sorry have not got the name of it) we were one of only two tables. Food was good – I had delicious Ravioli con Burro e Salvio. We wanted desert but there was no menu. Our waitress took quite a while to encourage us to have Vin Santo. The first of many in Tuscany for me.
The next day was my birthday. Normally DH plans my birthday celebration but he really hadn’t done his homework so I organised it. He did organise a picnic lunch to be prepared by the hotel. We drove to Pienza, bought some cheese, walked around town, admired views, got a parking ticket then drove off. We drove using Stu Dudley’s directions to Monitchiello. Walked around this tiny, pretty town and then drove down (up?, up and down) the dirt road and stopped where we found a quintessential Tuscan view and had our picnic of cheese, salami sandwiches, Brunello di Montalcino, cake. Then we drove towards Montepulcino but the kids had had enough of hill towns. We drove off but had to stop quickly as DD felt carsick and wasted her lunch on the Tuscan bushes. After a bit we drove down the first road we could find and just set off. Eventually we realised we were headed to the Radicofani. We had been told of its importance in the area’s history so we had to go. The views were beautiful and the fort contained an interesting exhibit of artefacts. We then took our chances and drove home down every dirt road we could find to get the most out of our last afternoon in this area. Back at the hotel DH and I enjoyed a glass or too of the Brunello and sat in the lovely garden looking at the full moon.
May 3rd, 2007, 11:05 PM
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Beautiful Florence
We had to leave San Quirico in the morning as we had a 2pm reservation to see David at the Academia and before that we had to drop off the car and before that we had negotiate the Florence traffic. So off we headed up the main road and apart from a couple of roundabouts that we had to go around twice I could almost say that DH had got this driving thing down pretty well. Until….. we followed the directions really. We stopped for petrol just a couple of kilometres away from our destination and then Isobel just seemed to have lost her mind. She kept on telling us to go down Senso Unico streets the wrong way. So we drove around the same area four times. We knew where we were, we knew we had to cross the river, we could even see the bridge to do so. We just could not get to that bridge. Eventually we just drove until somehow we were on the bridge. Then a left and a right and shazam! we were outside the rental drop-off point. Easy really. Shame that by this stage DH and I were about to kill each other. Oh well. I had the directions to the hotel. So off I walked. The kids aren’t stupid they hurried after me and eventually DH followed. We found our hotel Hotel Alba in via della Scala very easily. We were able to check in straight away. We then walked to the Academia, via Santa Maria Novella and then stopping at an ATM. That’s when DH realised he did not have his credit card! He recalled paying with it for petrol but not since then. Well we decided to go in and see David first before we panicked. Then DH decided he would panic so after only a few minutes he said he would go back to the hotel, get them to call the petrol station and see if the card was there. Off he went on his own, saying he would meet us at the Duomo in an hour or two, much to the concern of the children. “How can you let him go on his own he can’t speak a work of Italian!” Oh well he’s a big boy isn’t he. I guess I hadn’t really cooled down from our earlier disagreement. So while the kids and I stayed and looked at David and laughed at the screaming women saying “No photo!” DH caught a taxi back to the petrol station. Having plenty of time to kill, we looked at the exhibition of musical instruments in the Academia. We stopped for an uninspiring lunch and got to the Duomo to find DH waiting there, with his credit card. He got it back with relatively little trouble. Well it was around 4 o’clock on a perfect January evening in Florence so we decided to climb the Cupola but the queue was so long. So we went for the Campanile instead. What a good idea. It was a perfect sunset, with the full moon rising behind the Cupola. Needless to say our photos are pretty good. We finally went down in the dark and then of course had to run up the Cupola. And I mean run as we only had a few minutes left. Then we went and looked at the Baptistery. After this we wandered through the streets of Florence to the Ponte Vecchio and then back towards our hotel. The next day we had 10 am reservations for the Uffizi. We hadn’t really needed our Academia reservations but we needed the Uffizi ones. We turned up on time to find out that there was a strike until 10.30am. Everyone who had reservations could claim their tickets but only after 10.30am. It was a bit of a bunfight but we were eventually into the museum by about 11am. We left at 3pm. After visiting Santa Croce we went to the Leather school behind it. Satisfied with our purchases we then had to visit very leather shop outside to watch DD try on leather jackets. I thought her brother would punch her. Finally she said she would come back tomorrow (Oh no!). Tomorrow though was our trip to Pisa to see the Leaning Tower. We got up, walked the half block to the station caught the train, walked through Pisa to the Tower. We climbed we took silly photos we left and caught the train back to Florence. We then visited the San Lorenzo markets. The kids decided it was time to dump their parents so we all went our separate ways for a while. When we met up the boys had bought Statue of David boxer shorts and t-shirts. DD still had not bought a leather jacket but I think she had tried them all on. We returned to the same trattoria as the first night in Florence and had basically the same food.
The next day we were to catch the train to the Dolomites for our ski week.
We had to leave San Quirico in the morning as we had a 2pm reservation to see David at the Academia and before that we had to drop off the car and before that we had negotiate the Florence traffic. So off we headed up the main road and apart from a couple of roundabouts that we had to go around twice I could almost say that DH had got this driving thing down pretty well. Until….. we followed the directions really. We stopped for petrol just a couple of kilometres away from our destination and then Isobel just seemed to have lost her mind. She kept on telling us to go down Senso Unico streets the wrong way. So we drove around the same area four times. We knew where we were, we knew we had to cross the river, we could even see the bridge to do so. We just could not get to that bridge. Eventually we just drove until somehow we were on the bridge. Then a left and a right and shazam! we were outside the rental drop-off point. Easy really. Shame that by this stage DH and I were about to kill each other. Oh well. I had the directions to the hotel. So off I walked. The kids aren’t stupid they hurried after me and eventually DH followed. We found our hotel Hotel Alba in via della Scala very easily. We were able to check in straight away. We then walked to the Academia, via Santa Maria Novella and then stopping at an ATM. That’s when DH realised he did not have his credit card! He recalled paying with it for petrol but not since then. Well we decided to go in and see David first before we panicked. Then DH decided he would panic so after only a few minutes he said he would go back to the hotel, get them to call the petrol station and see if the card was there. Off he went on his own, saying he would meet us at the Duomo in an hour or two, much to the concern of the children. “How can you let him go on his own he can’t speak a work of Italian!” Oh well he’s a big boy isn’t he. I guess I hadn’t really cooled down from our earlier disagreement. So while the kids and I stayed and looked at David and laughed at the screaming women saying “No photo!” DH caught a taxi back to the petrol station. Having plenty of time to kill, we looked at the exhibition of musical instruments in the Academia. We stopped for an uninspiring lunch and got to the Duomo to find DH waiting there, with his credit card. He got it back with relatively little trouble. Well it was around 4 o’clock on a perfect January evening in Florence so we decided to climb the Cupola but the queue was so long. So we went for the Campanile instead. What a good idea. It was a perfect sunset, with the full moon rising behind the Cupola. Needless to say our photos are pretty good. We finally went down in the dark and then of course had to run up the Cupola. And I mean run as we only had a few minutes left. Then we went and looked at the Baptistery. After this we wandered through the streets of Florence to the Ponte Vecchio and then back towards our hotel. The next day we had 10 am reservations for the Uffizi. We hadn’t really needed our Academia reservations but we needed the Uffizi ones. We turned up on time to find out that there was a strike until 10.30am. Everyone who had reservations could claim their tickets but only after 10.30am. It was a bit of a bunfight but we were eventually into the museum by about 11am. We left at 3pm. After visiting Santa Croce we went to the Leather school behind it. Satisfied with our purchases we then had to visit very leather shop outside to watch DD try on leather jackets. I thought her brother would punch her. Finally she said she would come back tomorrow (Oh no!). Tomorrow though was our trip to Pisa to see the Leaning Tower. We got up, walked the half block to the station caught the train, walked through Pisa to the Tower. We climbed we took silly photos we left and caught the train back to Florence. We then visited the San Lorenzo markets. The kids decided it was time to dump their parents so we all went our separate ways for a while. When we met up the boys had bought Statue of David boxer shorts and t-shirts. DD still had not bought a leather jacket but I think she had tried them all on. We returned to the same trattoria as the first night in Florence and had basically the same food.
The next day we were to catch the train to the Dolomites for our ski week.
May 4th, 2007, 03:26 AM
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enjoyed your reports. i particularly appreciated your notes about driving in italy. we have such a bad reputation, but i saw much more terrible drivers in other parts of the planet.
come back visit us.. in venice too! (where there's no cars, btw
come back visit us.. in venice too! (where there's no cars, btw
