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Old Mar 19th, 2008, 02:48 PM
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venice itinerary - anything I've missed?

Hi y'all,

in just under 48 hours we'll be settled into our apartment just off the campo bartolomeo [can you hear me crossing my fingers ever so tightly?] and I've tried to balance planning with spontenaity, bearing in mind that we have a whole week!

so the beginning of the week is quite full, on the basis that if we want to book anything else, we can do it while we're there.

Day 1 - arrive 8pm ish. we are being met at the water dock just by our apartment [hearing those fingers crossing again?]. Because we are arriving quite late, the plan is to get a motor-taxi from the airport and i am instructed to phone the owner's agent from teh taxi and get the driver to talk to him to give him exact directions!!!

i have alrady phoned him from home and established that my italian is better than his english which is saying very little. Hand gestures do NOT work on the phone.

I still remember the looks on the faces of the family as we waited and waited for our cab driver in Rome two years ago. [he tuned up eventually, but only after I'd turned grey!] so I sincerely hope that this plan is more successful.

once we arrive, I'm hoping that at least one bar is still open - I think that we are very close to alle botte so we may try it out.

Day 2 - easter sat. hoping to hit the rialto market early and stock up with goodies for the weekend, then to do some supermarket and deli shopping before the shops shut for what I anticipate wil be a long weekend. then a nice lunch.

afternoon stroll perhaps, then a rest and a cup of tea [I've already packed the tea-bags though Venice is the ONLY place in europe outside the UK where I've had a decent cuppa], before a 5 pm concert at La Fenice - no opera playing this week but they have got Schostokovitch. I'm hoping that it will be exciting enough to keep the kids awake!

supper near-by - any ideas?

Day 3 - Easter sunday. DH and I are hoping to get to the Easter Mass in st. Marco. 10.30am is the sung service, so we'll try that one, I think. then another stroll and lunch, hopefully somewhere away from the crowds. any suggestions for the afternoon- especially if it's wet? [the forecast is not very good].

DAy 4 - easter monday. secrets of the doge's palace tour in the am. then if we've got the energy dourodoso in the pm. or a sleep.

DAy 5 - tuesday to Day 8 - Friday.
in no particular order -

a trip out to the islands,

the frari and scuola san rocco,

the romans and barbarians exhibition at the palazzo grassi

ca' rezzonico,

san salute, the guggenheim and accademia,

canneregio and the jewish quarter

museo correr

lots of wandering aimlessly around and sitting in cafes.

we're travelling with our rather large kids [aged 20 & 17] so I have occasionally to take account of their wishes but is there anything I've missed?

regads, ann

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Old Mar 19th, 2008, 03:02 PM
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No Gondola ride? What about Harry's Bar? Are you planning to have Gelato every day? Sgrappino at the end of every meal?

I like the wandering about component of your programme, and the sitting in cafes.

I particularly liked Museo Correr.

Buon viaggio.
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Old Mar 19th, 2008, 03:10 PM
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hi Padraig,

gondola possibly, [the cost isn't too bad between 4, ditto the water-taxi] Harry's Bar, very unlikely. though I suppose that DH and i might go there to escape the kids if they drive us to drink.

I've been to Venice before but never the Correr. The aim is to space out the museums and galleries so that the kids [and us] don't go into museum overload.

Having a week is such a luxury. there should even be time for DS to do some exam revision! [certainly that's what I keep tellnig him].

regards, ann
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Old Mar 19th, 2008, 04:09 PM
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Try to get up very early and see them set yp the Rialto Fish market. Since you'll be so close, it shouldn't be much of a problem. Try to get there about 7 am.

We visited Chieasa San Sebastiano last time and were impressed. Veronese's parish church. Also try a stroll on the Zatterre.
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Old Mar 19th, 2008, 04:56 PM
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annhig-I am SO jealous! Have a marvelous trip. For me, Venice, just put your walking shoes on. Shirley
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Old Mar 19th, 2008, 05:17 PM
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annhig wrote: "Harry's Bar, very unlikely. though I suppose that DH and i might go there to escape the kids if they drive us to drink."

It's an achievement to get offspring aged 20 and 17 to holiday with you -- although maybe Venice, as well as family feeling, plays a part in it. Make the most of your family time, and the price of a couple of drinks in Harry's bar will buy four drinks in (if I may use the expression in relation to Venice) a more down to earth establishment.
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Old Mar 19th, 2008, 05:36 PM
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I would not combine the Accademia and the Guggenheim in the same day -
I'd assume that going to the Accademia will take the major part of a morning.

Make sure you have good maps so that you can manage the risk of being lost - I always recommend Rough Guide, which notes locations of many of the restaurants below.

Dont underestimate how important good eating will be to you and your kids - Ive cut and pasted this two year old advice given on another website to someone else with teenagers-

In Venice, try to avoid eating nr San Marco. important. there are some good pizzerias, a good bet if your kids are iffy on fish and seafood - if they are not, the sky is the limit. Some examples are Dai Tosi piccolo(Seco Marina, far out in Castello, definitely out of the way, have other dishes as well), Nono Resorto and Ae Oche (two locations). Other places we have liked that include both fish and non-fish dishes and that kids would also be likely to enjoy are Alla Frasca (Castello - not far from you), San Barnaba (Da Sandro) on Calle Lunga San Barnaba - wine bar with a few tables in the back, good welcome, tasty food (mainly meat oriented), Anice Stellato in Cannaregio - Da Alberto is a trattoria we havent tried yet,(near your apartment) but others have recommended and it looks attractive, warm and convenient - nr the Miracoli(calle largo Giacinta Gallina). If you take the boat to Murano, Busa del Torre da Lele on the main square is the best choice. Venice specific guides - Venice Eateries by Michela Scibilia (Venezia osterie e dintorni), available widely in Venice in English and Italian, with maps and a lot of great info - good investment if you are there for more than a couple of days and care about food - 15 Euros.

YOu will be able to walk most places but do get a few days worth of vaporetto tickets and go on and off - you can visit places like San Giorgio and the Giudecca as well as the islands that way.

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Old Mar 20th, 2008, 02:12 AM
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hi everyone - as ever thanks for the so helpful repsonses and suggestions.

yes - I know that we're lucky that the kids still want to come with us. this is the third italian city that we've "done" together as a family - Rome 2 years ago, then Florence, now Venice. each time we have rented an apartment - essential with DS who is somewhat hyperactive!

however, it DOES have its down-side - they are not that fond of sitting in bars and watching what goes on there whilst nursing a cheap drink, [neither of them like alcohol very much] and have an unreasonable aversion to wandering aimlessly up and down the grubby alleys that their father is so fond of. also they tend to want to eat at regular intervals - so inconsiderate. part of the point of getting an apartment is to allow us to eat in some of the time, and thus save a bit - though I am resigned to this NOT saving us as much as we would like!

jjkbrook - thanks so much for the list of restaurants. i would not dream of eating in or near piazza san marco, though I suppose we might splash out on a digestiv at florians one night to hear the orchestras, if the weather gets better - the forecast is not good. fortunately the kids [and us] will eat any amount of fish and seafood -it's the Venitian staple of liver and onions that I might have trouble with!

as for vaporetto tickets, after a lot of umming and erring, i decided on the blue venice cards for 7 days - 55e for us, 52e for the kids. if you ignore the other benefits such as unlimited use of the public toilets, that works out at 8 boat-rides each - just over one a day which isn't that much. what I suspect is that because we have the tickets, we'll use the boats more than we otherwise would have done, which is no bad thing.

as for walking and getting lost, that's not such a problem in Venice as getting lost is part of the fun. but we do have maps [several, DH is addicted to them] and a lovely guide book called "Venice for Pleasure" which is all about exploring the less visited parts of the city.

thanks to you all for your good wishes - i hope that my trip report will be a little thank-you.

regards, ann
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Old Mar 20th, 2008, 05:37 AM
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If you are going to Accademia, there is a special Titian exhibit through April 20. And maybe I will see you at the Doges Palace Monday. We also have tickets then for secret itineraries tour that morning. Have fun!
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Old Mar 20th, 2008, 05:47 AM
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Ann - add Santa Maria della Salute to your wanderings from Dorsoduro. It has a wonderful art collection, and the building is spectacular, but so is the walk particularly for your husband as it winds through very close alleyways. Once you come out, take the vaporetto directly in front and cross to San Marco, and from there wander through the Piazza up past the Correr to Frezzaria and wind your way through the streets and sestiere to Rialto and back home, stopping along the way in any of the outdoor cafes for sustenance of your choice.
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Old Mar 20th, 2008, 08:38 AM
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sandra - good idea about san salute. I seem to remember that it closes promptly at 12 noon - we got caught out like that before. Probably to do before the accademia.

Laurie -Ann - I tried to book for the accademia last night on the web but failed when it got to the bit where you pay! I might have another go now.

What time is your "secret" tour? - ours is 10.45.

do you fancy a GTG? as we are there for a week we've lots of time for fratanising but you may be on a tighter schedule. if you think you might, my e-mail is [email protected]. otherwise, have a great time.

regards, ann
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Old Mar 30th, 2008, 02:34 PM
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hi y'all,

just got back in the early hours of sat and am beginning to recover from having to drive home for three hours in the middle of the night.

and from DH picking up a speeding ticket on the way TO the airport.

we had a great time and I'll post a trip report as soon as..

thanks to you all for your helpful suggestions.

regards, ann
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