Valentine's Day Week-End in Paris, Chartres and Senlis: Trip Report
Feb 15th, 2004, 12:04 PM
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Valentine's Day Week-End in Paris, Chartres and Senlis: Trip Report
Dates: Feb. 13-15
We left early morning from Brussels and drove down to Paris, spent the night in Paris, left at noon for Chartres, spent the night in Chartres, then left about 11 am, stopping in Senlis for lunch a wander around town, then drove home.
Hotels: in Paris, the Sofitel Le Parc on Avenue Rayond Poincare, just off the Place Victor Hugo, in the 16th. Price for a double with breakfast and tax: 175 euros (Sofitel.com Internet special, rack rate for our room was 480 euros per night). Review: Wonderful hotel! It has been completely renovated and everything was just as pleasant as could be. The hotel facade is a Belle Epoque confection, a buttercream wedding cake transmogrified into stone. It is a actually a network of several buildings that surround a LARGE charming courtyard, where flowers were already in bloom. (In summer, drinks and breakfast are served outside). It felt like a country manor in the midst of an elegant residential district in Paris. Our room, in the Pavillion building, was spacious and decorated with toile de jouy wallpaper and fabrics, king size bed, marble bathroom (Roger & Gallet toiletries), and Bang and Olufson TV. Good service--the front desk brought us a box of chocolates and quickly handled any request (such as valet parking the car for us at the same rates as the local public garage). We loved the neighborhood, full of shops, cafes and restaurants, lively but elegant, close to two metro stops, and a short walk from the Trocadero, with its fab views of the Eiffel Tower. Will DEFINITELY stay there again!! Caveat: not all of the buildings have elevators. The Pavilion didn't, but it's only two floors and as luggage is delivered and picked up very quickly, not a problem for us. But if an elevator is necessary, let them know when reserving.
In Chartres: the Hotel Ibis, along the river and the Parc Gagnon, a 10-15 minute walk from the cathedral. Rate for double with parking: 40 euros. Simple, straightforward. Ibis are pretty much all the same; we just wanted someplace comfortable with easy car access to spend the night. Delivered on that score, but obviously not a choice for anyone who wants a more personalized hotel.
We left early morning from Brussels and drove down to Paris, spent the night in Paris, left at noon for Chartres, spent the night in Chartres, then left about 11 am, stopping in Senlis for lunch a wander around town, then drove home.
Hotels: in Paris, the Sofitel Le Parc on Avenue Rayond Poincare, just off the Place Victor Hugo, in the 16th. Price for a double with breakfast and tax: 175 euros (Sofitel.com Internet special, rack rate for our room was 480 euros per night). Review: Wonderful hotel! It has been completely renovated and everything was just as pleasant as could be. The hotel facade is a Belle Epoque confection, a buttercream wedding cake transmogrified into stone. It is a actually a network of several buildings that surround a LARGE charming courtyard, where flowers were already in bloom. (In summer, drinks and breakfast are served outside). It felt like a country manor in the midst of an elegant residential district in Paris. Our room, in the Pavillion building, was spacious and decorated with toile de jouy wallpaper and fabrics, king size bed, marble bathroom (Roger & Gallet toiletries), and Bang and Olufson TV. Good service--the front desk brought us a box of chocolates and quickly handled any request (such as valet parking the car for us at the same rates as the local public garage). We loved the neighborhood, full of shops, cafes and restaurants, lively but elegant, close to two metro stops, and a short walk from the Trocadero, with its fab views of the Eiffel Tower. Will DEFINITELY stay there again!! Caveat: not all of the buildings have elevators. The Pavilion didn't, but it's only two floors and as luggage is delivered and picked up very quickly, not a problem for us. But if an elevator is necessary, let them know when reserving.
In Chartres: the Hotel Ibis, along the river and the Parc Gagnon, a 10-15 minute walk from the cathedral. Rate for double with parking: 40 euros. Simple, straightforward. Ibis are pretty much all the same; we just wanted someplace comfortable with easy car access to spend the night. Delivered on that score, but obviously not a choice for anyone who wants a more personalized hotel.
Feb 15th, 2004, 12:08 PM
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The Sofitel le Parc sounds wonderful. Is it anywhere near a métro station or a taxi rank? We very much liked the Regent's Garden escept for the LONG hike to the métro, tiring at the end of a long day--especially the uphill part.
Feb 15th, 2004, 12:16 PM
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Restaurants: In Paris, we had dinner at Il Convivium on Place Victor Hugo. An Italian restaurant very popular with the locals. Moderately priced. The bill for the two of us was 90 euros, which covered aperitifs, two courses (salad and main course), bottle of wine, bottle mineral water, and coffee. Good food, and service was fine once we finally got someone to take our order. Apparently our table was in a disputed area, with no waiter wanting to add us to their already full load. The manager ended up taking our order. After that problem was resolved, everything was fine.
During the day, we also stopped at a few cafes, like Scossa, also on Place Victor Hugo, a modern, hip cafe, filled with youngish Parisians posing, people watching and partying. We had a midnight drink at Cafe du Trocadero to watch the Eiffel Tower do its final light show before turning off. Beautiful evening, perfect start for VD.
In Chartres: rillette sandwiches at Cafe Serpente, across from the cathedral. Fine, convenient, traditional cafe. Cheap (sandwiches were under 4 euros each). Dinner nearby at La Picoterie, a nearby little crepe restaurant, pretty inexpensive. Would go back there again.
In Senlis, lunch at La Porte de Compiegne. Lunch special at 17 euros each (3 courses), pitcher of wine for 7 euros. Was ok, but would not go back there again. However, by the time we wanted to have lunch, most places weren't serving anymore or were full, so we took what was available.
During the day, we also stopped at a few cafes, like Scossa, also on Place Victor Hugo, a modern, hip cafe, filled with youngish Parisians posing, people watching and partying. We had a midnight drink at Cafe du Trocadero to watch the Eiffel Tower do its final light show before turning off. Beautiful evening, perfect start for VD.
In Chartres: rillette sandwiches at Cafe Serpente, across from the cathedral. Fine, convenient, traditional cafe. Cheap (sandwiches were under 4 euros each). Dinner nearby at La Picoterie, a nearby little crepe restaurant, pretty inexpensive. Would go back there again.
In Senlis, lunch at La Porte de Compiegne. Lunch special at 17 euros each (3 courses), pitcher of wine for 7 euros. Was ok, but would not go back there again. However, by the time we wanted to have lunch, most places weren't serving anymore or were full, so we took what was available.
Feb 15th, 2004, 12:27 PM
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Quick replies! The Sofitel Le Parc is about a 3 minute walk from the Place Victor Hugo which has both a metro stop and taxi rank. Or you could walk "down" the Ave. Raymond Poincare, about 5 minutes, for the Trocadero metro stop (more convenient for getting to the Left Bank). Didn't see a taxi stand there, though we weren't looking.
Cultural activities: In Paris, none, other than just wandering around, soaking up the atmosphere on a warmer than expected day. In Chartres, we walked through the old city, then my husband took the Malcolm Miller dog while I strolled through town with the dog (we brought our spaniel along, as usual). My husband thought the tour was great and highly recommends it. I had a little time to go into the cathedral later, but no tour for me.
After leaving Chartres, we drove up route 906 to Maintenon, where we stopped to check out the chateau (only the exterior, as it only opened at 2 pm and we wanted to get going). Taking the back roads was relaxing, then picked up the N10 at Rambouillet, then the the expressway at Versailles to get back on the Paris peripherique and then the A1 past CdG airport. We stopped in Senlis (an easy stop off the A1). GREAT town for walking around, very interesting and "atmospheric", we thought it was superior to Chartres (except for the cathedral, of course). A lot of Parisians, FYI, especially artists and artisans, are buying apartments in Senlis, so it's more sophisticated than you'd think. Well worth visiting, especially as an easy day trip from Paris.
All in all, a great week-end. The weather cooperated and we had a super time.
Cultural activities: In Paris, none, other than just wandering around, soaking up the atmosphere on a warmer than expected day. In Chartres, we walked through the old city, then my husband took the Malcolm Miller dog while I strolled through town with the dog (we brought our spaniel along, as usual). My husband thought the tour was great and highly recommends it. I had a little time to go into the cathedral later, but no tour for me.
After leaving Chartres, we drove up route 906 to Maintenon, where we stopped to check out the chateau (only the exterior, as it only opened at 2 pm and we wanted to get going). Taking the back roads was relaxing, then picked up the N10 at Rambouillet, then the the expressway at Versailles to get back on the Paris peripherique and then the A1 past CdG airport. We stopped in Senlis (an easy stop off the A1). GREAT town for walking around, very interesting and "atmospheric", we thought it was superior to Chartres (except for the cathedral, of course). A lot of Parisians, FYI, especially artists and artisans, are buying apartments in Senlis, so it's more sophisticated than you'd think. Well worth visiting, especially as an easy day trip from Paris.
All in all, a great week-end. The weather cooperated and we had a super time.
Feb 15th, 2004, 12:41 PM
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One final note: I especially recommend the Sofitel Le Parc for summer...all rooms are air conditioned and the tree-planted, shady courtyard is perfect for relaxing on a hot day. If Paris gets another heat wave like they had last summer, I can't think of a better place to stay...
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